*- 


LETTERS 


v.  cTtui 

IRELAND. 


MDCCCXXXVII. 


BY 

CHARLOTTE    ELIZABETH. 


BOSTON  COLLEGE  LIBRARY 
CHESTNUT  HILL,  MASS. 


NEW   YORK: 
BAKER    &    SCRIBNER, 

145  Nassau.  Street,  and  36  Park  Eow 

184S, 


vv 


3  <¥ 


MJh- 


d  4  £ 


PREFACE 


The  following  pages  would  have  appeared  six  months  earlier,  but 
for  various  hindrances  which  delayed  the  work  of  filling  up  what 
was  but  a  brief  outline.  That  they  should  appear  at  all  may  be 
deemed  by  some  readers  matter  of  apology  also;  but  at  a  period  when 
such  strenuous  efforts  are  made  to  place  in  different  and  opposing 
lights  the  country  and  the  people  referred  to,  it  seemed  desirable 
to  add  to  the  collection  even  such  a  sketch  as  this,  taken  recently 
from  the  life.  Facts,  rather  than  inferences,  are  adduced  :  and  if 
it  be  objected,  that  too  much  of  a  private  and  personal  nature  is 
interspersed  with  what  concerns  the  public,  it  may  be  pleaded  in 
excuse  that  not  a  small  portion  of  English  readers  are  still  misled 
by  prejudice  or  mistake,  in  their  calculations  regarding  the  Irish 
character.  The  writer  has  had  many  discussions  with  friends  who, 
desirous  of  seeing  and  judging  for  themselves  of  this  most  debate- 
able  land,  were  deterred  from  gratifying  that  laudable  wish  by  a 
degree  of  bodily  fear.  Their  imagination  represented  a  succes- 
sion of  perilous  obstacles,  of  which  the  least  formidable  menaced 
highway  robbery,  or  submersion  in  an  unfathomable  bog.  Not  a 
few  really  pathetic  remonstrances  were  used  to  dissuade  her  from 
so  daring  an  undertaking  as  that  of  traversing  from  south  to  north 
the  dreaded  country :  exacting  at  the  same  time  a  distinct  pro- 
mise that,  if  permitted  to  return  with  life,  she  would  publish  a  full 


IV  PREFACE. 

and  true  account  of  every  hair-breadth  'scape;  together  with  a 
correct  transcript  of  the  impression  made  on  her  mind  by  an 
attentive  view  of  existing  circumstances.  That  promise  is  now 
redeemed ;  and  happy  will  she  be  if  these  familiar  "  Letters"  tend 
to  remove  an  unfounded  apprehension,  or  unjust  suspicion,  as  to 
this  lovely  country  and  its  interesting  inhabitants;  or  to  arouse  a 
spirit  of  more  impartial  inquiry,  where  the  judgment  may  have 
been  prematurely  biassed  in  matters  deserving  of  the  most  serious, 
most  patient,  and  most  scrutinizing  investigation.  When  English- 
men learn  to  view  Ireland  as  she  is,  the  first  great  step  will  be 
achieved  towards  making  Ireland  what  she  ought  to  be. 

July,  1838. 


CONTENTS. 


LETTER   I. 
COUNTY      WEXFORD. 

Departure  from  Bristol — Passage — Waterford  Harbor — Set- 
ting off  for  New  Ross — Irish  Landscape — New  Ross — 
Anecdote  of  the  Rebellion  of  1798 — Lower  orders  of  Irish 
— Blackstairs  Mountain — Unpleasant  Situation,         -        -     9 

LETTER    II. 

COUNTY      WEXFORD, 

Travellers  in  Ireland — Political  and  Religious  Creed — Origin 
of  Irish  Evils — Extraordinary  Influence  of  the  Priests — 
Actual  Condition  of  the  People — Early  Marriages — Land 
lord  and  Tenant — Opposition  of  the  Priesthood  to  a  Scrip- 
tural System  of  Education — Abandonment  of  the  plan — 
Efforts  of  the  Church  of  Rome  to  obtain  her  former  supre- 
macy— Breaking  out  of  the  Rebellion  in  Wexford — Solemn 
Oath — Atrocities — Execution  of  a  Rebel — The  priest 
equally  with  his  congregation  a  slave  to  the  system,  -        -    29 

LETTER    III. 
COUNTY      WEXFORD. 
Irish  Hospitality — Scriptural  Schools — Importance  of  main- 
taining them — Ministers  of  the  Church — Vinegar  Hill— 


VI  CONTENTS. 

School-room — Proficiency  of  the  Scholars — Excursion  down 
the  river  Slaney — Vicinity  of  Wexford — Ancient  Temple — 
Accident — The  Disorders  among  the  lower  classes  caused 
not  by  poverty,  but  by  designing  men,        -        -        -        -     53 

LETTER    IV. 
WICKLOW DUBLIN. 

Wicklow — Anecdote  of  the  Rebellion — Vale  of  Avoca — Glen 
of  the  Downs — Mr.  Inglis  and  Mr.  Noel — Mistakes  in  their 
works  on  Ireland — Arrival  at  Dublin — Architectural  fea- 
tures— .Religious  Tract  and  Book  Society's  Depot — Other 
Religious  Associations — Irish  Society — The  Romish  Church 
planted  in  Ireland  by  the  Sword — Duty  of  restoring  the 
Gospel  to  the  People — Quibbles  of  the  Priests — The  Irish 
Language — Dublin  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum — Major  Sirr,       76 

L  E  T  T  E  II    V. 

COUNTY   WESTMEATH. 

Journey  to  Mullingar — Catholic  Priests — Maynooth — Evils  of 
Popery — Elegant  Demesne — Happiness  of  the  Tenants — 
Lough  Ouel — Painful  Reminiscences — Church-yard  at  Mul- 
lingar— Lough  Belvidere — Belvidere  and  Rochfort,    -        -  109 

LETTER  VI. 
WESTMEATH  TO  DOWN. 
Farewell  to  Friends — Irish  Beggars — Military  Precautions — 
The  Boyne — Trim  and  Trim  Castle — Navan — Attempt  at 
Imposition — Wretched  Roads — Arrival  at  Drogheda — Un- 
expected Meeting — Reminiscences  of  the  past — Touching 
Incident — Aspect  of  the  town — Journey  to  Castle  Belling- 
ham— Stay  at  Newry3        -        -        -        -        -        -        -129 

LETTER    VII. 
COUNTY       DOWN. 
Ireland's  master  evil — Catholic  Church — Beautiful  Sermon — 
Girl's  School — National  Education  System— Underhand  Ef- 


CONTENTS.  Vll 

forts  of  the  Catholics — Lord  Stanley's  plan — Corruptions  of 
the  text  of  the  Bible — Danger  to  Young  Protestants — The 
Government  distrust  of  the  Protestant  party,      -  156 


LETTER    "VI II. 

COUNTY      DOWN. 

Potato  Fields — Mourne  Mountains — Approach  to  Lord  Ro~ 
den's  seat — Tollymore  Park — Description  of  the  house  and 
grounds — Schools  on  the  estate — O'Connell  and  the  Orange- 
men— Dissolution  of  the  Orange  lodges — Efforts  of  the 
Irish  Society — Sunday  Schools,  ------  183 

LE  TTE  P.    IX. 
COUNTY      DOWN. 
Ascent  of  Slieve  Donard — Arrival    of    Lord  Roden — Two 
Classes   of  Resident  Landlords — Lord  Roden — Visit  to  a 
Cottager — A  Catholic  Bishop's  Pastoral  Instruction,  -  215 


LETTER    X. 
COUNTY      ARMAGH. 

Departure  from  Tollymore  Park — Tandragee — Lord  Farn- 
ham's  System — Lord  Mandeville's  System — Shebeen  houses 
— Clothing  Store — Loan  Fund — Sunday  School — Infant 
School, ~        -        -        -  240 

LETTER    XI 
COUNTY      DOWN. 

Ramble  over  the  Lower  Demesne  of  Tandragee  Castle — The 
Protestant  and  Popish  Coach — Approach  to  Belfast — Con- 
tested Election — Deaf  and  Dumb  Institution — Success  at- 
tending the  Irish  Scripture  Readers'  labors — Mistake  with 
respect  to  the  Presbyterians  rectified,         ....  262 


Vlll  CONTENTS'. 

LETTER    XII. 

LONDONDERRY. 
Lough  Neagh — Coleraine — Lough  Foyle — Dialogue  on  Reli- 
gious Topics — Arrival  at  Derry — Sketch  of  the  town  within 
the  walls — Picturesque  Vicinity — The  Cathedral — Remi- 
niscences of  the  Siege — Columbkill — Relics  of  1688,         -  278 

LETTER    XIII. 

COUNTY       DONEGAL. 

Apprentice  Boys  of  Derry — Features  of  Donegal — Lough 
Swilly — Sligo — Letterkenny — Ascent  of  Mount  Muckish — 
Magnificent  Scenery — Visit  to  Lough  Salt — Mulroy  Bay — 
British  Protestants  responsible  for  the  present  state  of 
Ireland, 305 

LETTER    XIV. 

CONCLUSION. 
Farewell  Visit  to  Derry — Embarkation  in  the  Robert  Napier — 
Scenery  of  the  coast — Giants'  Causeway — Distant  View  of 
the  Mourne  Mountains — Saluting  at  Sea — Reflections  on 
Leaving  Ireland,       -..-....  328 

Appendix,    .         .........  341 


LETTERS  FROM  IRELAND. 

LETTER   I. 

COUNTY  WEXFORD. 

June,  1837. 
You  will  not  be  much  surprised  at  the  date  of  this 
letter,  knowing-  how  anxiously  I  have  been  seeking  an 
opportunity  to  take  flight  westward.  That  I  have 
been  permitted  so  to  do,  is  a  matter  of  thankfulness 
and  joy.  A  long  absence  from  Ireland,  with  a  watch- 
ful eye  constantly  turned  towards  it,  has  prepared  me 
to  make  the  most  of  the  short  period  allowed  for  this 
visit :  and  here  I  am,  all  alive  to  the  delight  so  ear 
nesthr  coveted. 

It  would  be  a  grave  speculation,  wortriy  of  some 
calculating  English  head,  to  ascertain  how  far  the 
public  health  has  been  affected  by  the  locomotive  im- 
provements of  the  age.  I  do  not  refer  to  the  impreg- 
nation of  our  atmosphere  with  gas  and  steam,  but  to 
the  serious  increase  of  maladies  requiring  change  of 
place.  Formerly,  and  within  our  recollection,  the 
privilege  of  being  too  delicate  to  stay  at  home  was 
reserved  for  those  whose  abundant  wealth  and  super- 
abundant leisure  enabled  them  to  encounter  a  cost  of 
money  and  time,  far  beyond  the  means  of  their  neigh 


10  LETTER    I. 

bors.  Now  it  is  astonishing  what  an  indispensable 
necessity  has  fallen  upon  the  bulk  of  our  countrymen, 
and  still  more  of  our  countrywomen,  to  migrate. 
How  our  grandsires  and  grandames  contrived  to  attain 
the  robust  old  age  that  we  have  admired  to  see,  with- 
out an  annual  flitting  to  other  climes,  is  a  problem 
indeed.  I  can  shrewdly  guess  at  some  of  the  attrac- 
tions which  irresistibly  impelled  you  towards  the  far 
north  :  but  I  will  not  excite  your  tender  sympathy  by 
recapitulating  the  ailments  that  rendered  my  journey 
almost  a  matter  of  life  and  death.  I  believe  they 
might,  however,  be  summed  up  in  the  Swiss  disorder, 
Malade-du-pays.  Ireland,  to  be  sure,  is  not  my  native 
country;  but  if  all  her  children  loved  her  as  I  do,  the 
migratory  propensity  would  here  be  little  known. 
The  rich  would  stay  at  home,  and  the  poor  would 
be  fed. 

My  route  hither  was  from  London,  via  Bristol  and 
Waterford  :  my  travelling  companions  two  blithesome 
boys,  in  all  the  exuberance  of  joyous  freedom  from 
school  restraints.  One  delighted  to  conduct  a  guest 
to  his  paternal  dwelling — his  own  loved  Irish  home  ; 
the  other  all  expectation  of  what  he  was  to  see  and 
to  hear  and  to  enjoy  in  the  land  for  which  he  is  led  to 
pray  as  constantly  as  the  morning  breaks  upon  his 
English  abode.  I  think  habit  of  statedly,  and  by 
name,  praying  for  Ireland  in  the  family  worship,  tends 
more  than  anything  else  to  keep  alive  the  flame  of 
Christian  love,  which,  I  bless  God,  does  not  waver  or 
fail  in  my  bosom  towards  her. 

We  had  been  advised  to  take  our  passage  on  board 
the  Nora  Creina,  Waterford  steamer ;  but  while  wait- 
ing her  arrival  from  Bristol,  we  were  attracted  by  the 


COUNTY    WEXFORD.  11 

handsome,  spacious  appearance  of  a  rival  vessel,  the 
St.  Patrick,  lying  just  below  us.  We  strolled  on 
board,  and  finding  everything  within  answerable  to 
the  exterior,  with  the  prospect  of  a  rapid  passage, 
and  the  unconscionably  low  fare  of  half-a-guinea  each, 
instead  oftheJEl.  17s.  that  was  demanded  before  a  lively 
competition  reduced  it,  we  shipped,  our  luggage,  se- 
cured our  berths,  and  became  the  staunch  partisans 
of  St.  Patrick  against  all  the  world.  It  is  marvellous 
how  the  selfish  principle  operates  in  these  matters  ; 
and  I  think  peculiarly  so  in  naval  concerns.  What- 
ever vessel  you  may  make  choice  of  for  a  trip,  where 
choice  is  allowed,  becomes  immediately  the  safest, 
the  fleetest,  the  best  navigated  in  the  service.  Nay, 
should  the  kindness  of  a  friend  bring  you  into  close 
acquaintance  with  a  man-of-war,  allowing  you  to  walk 
the  decks,  to  number  the  guns,  to  inspect  the  wonder- 
ful machinery  of  that  mighty  "  home  upon  the  deep," 
you  become  identified  with  it ;  you  are  personally  glo- 
rified m  all  the  victories  achieved  by  the  gallant  ship  ; 
and  you  are  ready  to  maintain  that  for  the  skill  and 
bravery  of  her  officers,  and  seamanship  of  her  crew, 
she  has  no  competitor  in  the  royal  navy.  What  mar- 
vel then  that  we,  being  fairly  established  on  board  the 
St.  Patrick,  laughed  to  scorn  the  idea  of  the  Nora 
Creina  or  any  other  boat  bound  to  Waterford  coming 
within  the  influence  of  the  mighty  swell  that  we 
should  leave  in  our  track  1  It  really  was  an  exceed- 
ingly fine  vessel ;  and  as  I  sat  upon  deck,  luxuriating 
in  the  consciousness  that  I  was  fairly  embarked  for 
Ireland,  I  know  not  with  whom  1  would  have  exchanged 
situations. 

An  amusing  scene  passed  before  us :  the  agent  was 


12  LETTER    I. 

receiving  passage-money  and  distributing  tickets  ;  and 
when  the  steeraje  passengers  advanced  in  their  turn, 
it  was  quite  a  foretaste  of  Ireland.  The  lounging  gait, 
the  easy  unembarrassed  air,  the  arch  expression  of 
countenance,  and  rich  nationality  of  phrase  and  accent* 
all  gave  such  a  zest  to  the  humorous  remark  and  quick 
retort,  bandied  between  the  parties  engaged,  that  my 
English  youth  was  quite  amazed  at  the  freedom  of 
the  poor  peopie,  and  playfulness  of  their  superiors  5 
while  the  naturally  high  spirits  of  his  Irish  friend 
were  wound  to  a  pitch  of  enjoyment  that  enhanced 
my  own.  At  length  all  was  settled,  and  we  cleared 
away  in  capital  style  from  the  land,  holding  our  ma- 
jestic course  towards  the  mouth  of  the  Avon,  not  for- 
getting to  bestow  a  few  farewell  jokes  on  the  Nora 
Creina,  whose  bright  red  chimney-top  was  peeping 
from  the  other  side  of  the  lock,  and  of  whom  we  had 
got  the  start  so  completely  as  to  leave  her  no  reason- 
able chance  of  enjoying  more  than  a  distant  sight  of 
us- during  the  voyage. 

But  alas  for  all  sublunary  glory !  In  our  anxiety 
to  anticipate  Nora,  we  had  also  a  little  anticipated  the 
tide;  and  though  no  boat  could  be  better  worked, yet 
as  we  were  obliged  to  leave  sea  room  for  the  numerous 
vessels  passing  inwards  to  the  basin,  we  brought  our 
gallant  steamer  too  near  shore  for  the  present  depth 
of  water  ;  and  with  one  bold  plunge  the  mighty  St. 
Patrick  stuck  so  fast  in  the  mud  that  all  the  machin- 
ery on  board  would  not  effect  its  extrication.  Noth- 
ing could  be  more  interesting,  more  animated,  more 
picturesque,  or  more  provoking,  than  our  situation. 
Not  a  shadow  of  danger,  to  rouse  any  deeper  feeling  ; 
and  only  for  one  circumstance  it  would  have  been 


COUNTY   WEXFORD.  13 

delightful.  Here  rose  perpendicularly  above  us  the 
splendid  rocks  of  St.  Vincent  exactly  at  the  foot  of 
which,  in  their  loftiest  and  most  magnificent  point  of 
view,  we  lay  :  across  the  water,  dancing  and  spark- 
ling from  the  continual  agitation  of  passing  ships, 
were  spread  the  beautiful  wooded  heights  of  Leigh. 
I  do  not  think  that  any  river  can  afford  a  more  strik- 
ingly imposing  coup  d'ceil  than  we  had  then  full  leis- 
ure to  contemplate :  but  that  annoying  red  chimney- 
top  marred  all  our  gratification.  The  Nora  Creina 
had  cleared  the  lock,  had  put  on  her  steam  ;  and 
while  our  men  were  straining  every  nerve  in  ineffect- 
ual efforts  to  float  St.  Patrick,  his  fair  rival  paddled 
by  in  triumph,  bestowing  on  us  a  merry  cheer — whe- 
ther of  condolence  or  exultation  is  best  known  to 
those  who  uttered  it. 

By  means  of  a  rope  we  were  at  length  hauled  into 
deep  water  again,  and  had  the  satisfaction  of  follow 
mg  Nora,  but  at  as  respectful  a  distance  in  the  rear 
as  we  had  intended  her  to  keep.  We  passed  into  the 
Bristol  channel,  and  without  further  adventure  held 
on  our  way.  An  excellent  dinner  was  provided,  and 
the  afternoon  passed  pleasantly  on  deck,  a  bright  sky 
above,  and  a  wide  outspread  of  tranquil  water  around 
us.  Towards  evening,  as  I  watched  the  sun's  west- 
ward progress,  that  splendid  reflexion  which  renders 
a  sunset'  at  sea  so  glorious,  suddenly  appeared  ;  a 
stream  of  light  seemed  to  descend  perpendicularly 
from  the  flaming  orb,  still  high  above  the  horizon, 
and  to  settle  on  the  wave  beneath  in  a  body  of  efful- 
gence— it  was  like  a  carpet  of  silver  tissue  inter- 
spersed with  diamonds,  a  little  larger  than  the  sun's 
apparent  diameter.  At  that  moment  my  young  Hi- 
2 


14  LETTER    I. 

bernian  friend  approached,  "Do  you  see  that,  Robert  V' 
I  asked,  pointing  to  the  brilliant  object  before  us. 
*' Yes,"  he  replied  ,*  a  and  Ireland  is  just  under  it." 

Oh !  what  a  multitude  of  mixed  feelings  came 
crowding  to  oppress  my  mind  at  that  moment !  I 
knew  that  the  morrow  must  dawn  before  I  could  catch 
a  glimpse  of  that  distant  shore  ;  but  here  its  location 
was  unexpectedly  pointed  out  to  me,  and  that  too 
with  an  association  of  the  sublime  and  beautiful  not 
often  occurring  together.  Ireland  is  called  the  land 
of  song  ;  and  I  think  it  is  the  experience  of  all  who 
have  deeply  pondered  on  her  history,  and  looked 
upon  her  glorious  landscapes,  that  the  feelings  excit- 
ed on  her  behalf  always  partake  of  something  which, 
for  want  of  a  better  term,  I  suppose  I  must  call  ro- 
mance. That  mixture  of  the  wild,  the  terrible,  the 
joyous  and  pathetic  peculiar  to  the  Irish  character, 
which  is  stamped  on  the  natural  scenery  of  the  land, 
marks  the  pages  of  her  changeful  story,  and  thrills  in 
her  national  melodies,  rouses  in  those  who  are  con- 
versant with  it  a  species  of  enthusiasm  incomprehen- 
sible to  such  as  have  never  felt  it.  The  anxious  bus- 
tle of  preparatory  arrangements,  the  shifting  scenery 
of  a  rapid  journey,  the  events  of  our  outset,  and  the 
many  new  faces  appearing  around  me,  amid  the  lively 
quarter-deck  concomitants  of  a  fine  day,  had  almost 
lulled  to  sleep  a  chord  long  strung  in  my  bosom.  It 
was  now  touched — struck  with  a  force  that  sent  the 
vibration  through  its  entire  length  and  breadth  ;  and 
from  that  moment  I  was  dead  to  all  else  but  the  ab- 
sorbing theme  of  our  loved,  unhappy  Ireland.  Often, 
very  often,  during  a  long  absence  of  many  years,  had 


30UNTY    WEXFORD.  .  15 

I  breathed  the  language  adapted  to  one  of  the  Irish 

melodies. 

How  dear  to  me  the  hour  when  daylight  dies, 
And  sunbeams  melt  along  the  silent  sea  : 

For  then  sweet  dreams  of  other  days  arise, 
And  memory  breathes  her  vesper  sigh  to  thee. 

Can  you  not  imagine  with  what  a  rush  of  gratified 
feeling  they  recurred  to  me  now  that  I  was  pursuing 
a  swift  and  steady  course  towards  the  land  1  The 
silver  speck  enlarged,  it  lengthened,  it  approached 
us,  assuming  every  moment  a  deeper  glow :  and 
there  it  lay,  stretched  from  the  furthest  horizon  to 
the  very  keel  below  me,  and  kindling  into  diamond 
brilliancy  the  gushes  of  foam  from  our  paddle  wheels. 
How  exquisitely  expressive  of  my  sensations  was  the 
next  verse— 

And  as  I  mark  the  line  of  light  that  strays 
Along  the  cool  wave  tow'rd  the  burning  west, 

I  long  to  tread  that  golden  path  of  rays, 

And  think  'twould  lead  to  some  bright  ilse  of  rest. 

"Rest!"  that  word  presented  too  painful  a  contrast 
to  the  reality  of  what  is,  and  has  been,  and  too  pro- 
bably will  yet  be  the  lot  of  Ireland.  You  will  not 
be  surprised  to  hear  that  I  did  not  withdraw  my  eyes 
from  that  quarter  so  long  as  the  faintest  lingering 
blush  continued  to  mark  the  spot ;  and  that  by  five 
o'clock  the  next  morning  I  was  at  my  post,  in  eager 
expectation  of  the  first  glimpse  of  Erin.  It  appeared 
at  last  ;  and  after  swallowing  a  hasty  breakfast  from 
the  abundance  of  good  cheer  provided  on  board  the 
St.  Patrick,  we  again  seated  ourselves  on  deck,  to 


16  LETTER    I. 

mark  the  bold  outline  of  the  Wexford  mountains,  and 
the  fine  approach  to  Waterford. 

On  a  jutting  point  of  land,  conspicuous  alike  for 
size  and  situation,  stands  the  tower  of  Hook,  a  round 
white  building  ;  and  several  other  martello  towers  are 
seen  along  the  coast  where  it  stretches  off  to  the 
north  east,  forming  the  bay  of  Ballyteig.  Hook  being 
rounded  we  had  fairly  entered  the  harbor's  mouth  j 
and  shall  I  try  to  tell  you  what  I  felt  when  beholding 
on  either  side  the  sweet  green  shores,  like  arms  out- 
spread to  receive,  with  the  national  "  cead-mille-failte,', 
the  "hundred  thousand  welcomes"  of  Irish  hospitality, 
a  returning  friend  \  No,  I  will  not  attempt  it  :  you 
know  the  many  touching  circumstances  that  must 
have  combined  to  render  it  an  hour  of  trying  emotion 
to  me;  you  know  that,  since  last  I  beheld  her,  Ireland 
has  become  the  grave  of  that  "  dear  lost  companion," 
who,  from  earliest  babyhood  was  to  me, 

Dear  as  ihe  light  that  visits  these  sad  eyes, 
Dear  as  the  ruddy  drops  that  ■warm  my  heart; 

and  you  know  that  a  pilgrimage  of  sorrowing  affec- 
tion to  that  spot  had  been  for  years  the  object  of  my 
daily  wish  and  nightly  dream.  The  circumstance 
threw  a  shade  of  indescribable  sadness  over  my  mind : 
the  heart  knew  its  own  bitterness  ;  and  the  tears  that 
for  an  hour  would  not  cease  to  fall,  as  I  looked  upon 
the  soft  and  beautiful  scenery  around  me,  were  indeed 
tears  of  love  and  grief,  sacred  alike  to  the  memory  of 
the  dead  and  the  doom  of  the  living.  I  could  at  once 
take  up  the  language  of  David  and  of  Jeremiah  j  I 
could  say  with  the  former,  "I  am  distressed  for  thee, 
mv  brother,"  and  with  the  latter,  "  Oh  that  my  head 


COUNTY   WEXFORD.  17 

were  waters,  and  mine  eyes  a  fountain  of  tears,  that  I 
might  weep  day  and  night  for  the  slain  of  the  daugh- 
ters of  my  people !" 

Nothing  could  be  more  lovely  than  the  gradually 
narrowing  banks  of  Waterford  harbor.  There  is  no 
striking  object — no  grandeur  of  any  kind, — but  a 
character  of  simple  beauty  and  repose.  A  gentle 
acclivity  leads  the  eye  to  prospects  diversified  indeed, 
yet  varying  without  a  break  upon  the  uniform  pla- 
cidity of  the  scene.  Here,  a  nobleman's  or  gentle- 
man's seat,  with  its  fine  background  of  wooded  hills, 
and  a  spacious  lawn  in  front  5  there,  a  less  con- 
spicuous abode,  or  cluster  of  modest  dwellings,  with 
the  slight  spire  of  a  village  church  peeping  out  beyond 
-them.  Again,  where  the  shore  flattens,  a  busy  tribe 
of  fishermen,  launching  or  unlading  their  boats,  with 
their  lowly  cabins  scattered  or  congregated  a  little 
farther  inland.  The  houses  in  Ireland  are,  as  you 
know,  almost  universally  white;  and  you  could  not 
but  admire  the  picturesque  effect  thereby  produced, 
when  they  are  thinly  scattered  on  rising  grounds  clad 
with  that  delicious  verdure,  the  just  boast  of  the 
Emerald  isle,  and  relieved  by  a  sufficiency  of  trees 
and  hedgerows,  which  is  not  always  the  case,  though 
Waterford  harbor  can  display  as  much  as  the  eye 
of  taste  would  desire.  We  passed  along,  under  a 
glorious  sunshine  ;  and  the  necessary  demand  on  my 
attention,  when  the  marvellously  moderate  charges 
for  cabin  fare  and  attendance  were  presented  and  the 
selection  of  luggage  commenced,  gave  a  turn  to  the 
tide  of  feeling,  better  suited  to  the  realities  of  the 
moment. 


18  LETTER   I. 

What  changeable  beings  we  are  I  No  sooner  were 
those  tears  dried,  than  a  flow  of  cheerfulness,  pre- 
sently amounting  to  the  most  mirthful  glee,  succeeded. 
We  found  ourselves  near  our  friend  Nora,  whose  red 
chimney-top  had  discarded  its  long  black  pennon  of 
smoke,  and  whose  passengers  were  already  dispersed 
to  their  several  destinations.  St.  Patrick  was  laid 
alongside  his  rival,  who  formed  a  bridge  for  us  to  the 
pier  5  and  Robert  having  recommended  that,  as  we  had 
not  to  seek  a  public  conveyance,  and  were  under  no 
obligation  to  hasten  ashore,  we  should  remain  quiet 
until  all  the  rest  were  landed,  we  collected  our  trunks 
about  us,  and  sat  still,  delighted  spectators  of  the 
lively  scene. 

For,  whatever  else  an  Irish  scene  may  lack,  there  is 
never  a  deficiency  of  liveliness  in  it.  There  is  some 
thing  in  the  national  character  always  on  the  qui  vive 
for  amusement  ;  and  an  unsophisticated  set  of  Irish 
porters,  at  home,  are  very  different  from  any  frater- 
nity whom  you  have  probably  seen  exercising  that 
calling.  I  never  was  more  amused  by  the  contrast 
than  now,  that  I  had  so  recently  experienced  the 
sturdy  demands,  and  witnessed  the  angry  competition, 
of  the  London  and  Bristol  professionals.  As  I  sate 
guarding  my  little  stores,  many  a  polite  offer  of 
service  was  tendered,  more  with  the  air  of  a  gentle- 
man who  wishes  to  oblige  you,  than  of  a  hungry 
fellow  whose  dinner,  and  supper  too,  depend  on 
what  he  may  gain  by  it.  "  I'm  just  going  over  there," 
pointing  across  the  Nora  ;  "  may -be,  I'd  carry  your 
luggage  with  me,"  said  a  fine,  broad-faced  Paddy,  who 
had  strolled  up,  and  stood  before  us  with  great  com- 
posure.    "  Thank  you  j  but  I'm  not  going  ashore  yet, 


COUNTY    WEXFORD.  19 

and  there's  a  gentleman  managing1  the  luggage  for 
me."1  Paddy  responded  to  the  smile  with  which  this 
was  spoken,  touched  his  fragment  of  a  hat,  and, 
wheeling  off,  saw  a  large  telescope,  fixed  in  its  rest, 
with  the  broad  end  about  eight  inches  from  an  upright 
board.  Not  heeding  the  latter  obstruction,  Paddy 
immediately  placed  himself  at  the  eyeglass,  and  apply- 
ing his  hands  to  his  knees  squatted  down  till  he 
brought  himself,  as  he  thought,  in  the  right  line  of 
vision  to  enjoy  an  excellent  view  of  the  harbor  and 
distant  shipping.  A  long  pry  convinced  him,  I  sup- 
pose, that  the  glass  was  a  bad  one;  for  he  walked 
away  in  search  of  some  other  amusement.  This, 
trifling  as  it  was,  delighted  me  beyond  measure  :  I 
felt  myself  in  Ireland  ;.  and  when  at  last  permitted  to 
spring  ashore,  my  very  feet  seemed  to  rejoice  in  the 
privilege  of  kissing  the  beloved  soil  again. 

Waterford  has  a  most  noble  quay7  little  less  than  a 
mile  in  length,  broad,  and  at  the  point  where  we 
landed  exhibiting  some  fine  buildings.  The  most 
conspicuous  of  these  is  a  very  ancient  tower  of  Dan* 
ish  origin,  round,  massive,  and  once  no  doubt  of  pro* 
digious  strength.  It  is  said  to  have  been  erected  in 
1003;  and  among  the  purposes  to  which  it  has  been 
applied,  was  that  of  a  fortress,  by  Earl  Strongbow  ;  a 
state  prison,  too,  wherein  were  confined  his  captives, 
Reginald,  prince  of  the  Danes  in  Waterford,  Malachi 
O'Fealan,  prince  of  the  Deeies,  with  other  conquered 
opposers  ;  and  a  mint,  by  Edward  IV.  It  is  now  the 
head-quarters  of  the  police  establishment  in  Water- 
ford. In,  occasionally  naming  the  police,  I  must 
guard  you  against  the  mistake  of  identifying  them 
with  those  peaceable-looking  gentry,  who,  with  blue 


20  LETTER    I. 

coats  well  buttoned  up,  and  respectable  round  hats, 
perambulate  the  streets  of  London,  apparently  not 
only  inoffensive  but  defenceless  too  ;  and  whose  chief 
business,  as  a  casual  observer  would  surmise,  is  to 
answer  the  frequent  queries  of  bewildered  pedes- 
trians, at  a^oss  whether  the  right  turning  or  the  left 
will  sooner  bring  them  to  their  destination.  The 
police  force  of  Ireland  present  a  far  different  aspect : 
their  uniform  is  dark  green,  altogether  of  military 
fashion,  with  regimental  cap,  broad  black  belt,  short 
musket,  cartouche-box,  and  bayonet.  The  officers, 
or  chief  and  deputy  chief  constables  as  they  are 
called,  wear  swords.  This  is  one  of  the  saddening 
characteristics  of  poor  Ireland.  The  sword  of  the 
Spirit  has  been  withheld  from  her  children  ;  therefore 
the  carnal  weapon  is  become  indispensable  to  control 
the  excitable  and  misguided  populace. 

All  around  us,  however,  was  peace  and  good 
humor  when  wTe  trod  the  broad  and  weli-placed  flag- 
stones that  separate,  with  a  delightful  promenade,  the 
water's  edge  from  the  carriage-way  ;  and  crossing  the 
latter,  proceeded  on  another  excellent  pavement, 
along  a  line  of  handsome  shops,  which  spoke  well  for 
Waterford's  trading  prosperity.  Our  plan  was  to 
engage  a  private  conveyance  to  New  Ross,  where  we 
meant  to  dine  ;  and  I  had  little  difficulty  in  persuading 
my  guide  to  order  an  outside  car,  that  we  might  be 
as  Irish  as  possible.  We  were  shown  into  a  hand- 
some drawing-room  at  the  proprietor's  office;  and 
while  waiting,  I  had  leisure  to  admire  the  beauty  of 
the  splendid  river,  with  its  rising  hanks  on  the  oppo- 
site side,  and  regretted  my  inability  to  take  a  survey 
of    the    town.      Our    starting    scene    was    amusing 


COUNTY    WEXFORD.  21 

enough :  the  car  was  of  very  ordinary  materials,  and 
the  driver  presented  as  grotesque  an  object  as  could 
well  be  imagined.  The  very  slender  remains  of  what 
had  once  been  a  hat  caught  the  master's  eye,  and  an 
order  was  given  to  find  him  a  better.  "  Can  none  of 
you  lend  Barney  the  trifle  of  a  hat !"  resounded 
through  the  establishment.  Several  were  produced ; 
but  Barney's  phrenological  developments  set  at  defi- 
ance all  attempts  to  force  a  covering  on  them  At 
length  one  shouted  out  from  the  hall,  "  Here's 
Pether's  hat ;  it'ill  just  fit."  "  Pether's  out,"  responded 
the  official  man,  "  and  can't  want  it.  Clap  it  on, 
Barney."  This  was  done  ;  and  just  as  we  hoped  our 
delays  were  ended,  a  difference  appeared  in  our 
respective  computations  of  the  fare,  which  required 
no  less  than  a  committee  of  the  whole  house,  all  talk- 
ing together,  to  settle.  We  began  to  regret  having 
declined  places  on  the  mail  car,  which  had  long  since 
rattled  merrily  away  loaded  with  our  fellow-passen- 
gers ;  but  the  difficulty  was  overcome,  and  we  stepped 
across  the  threshold.  Alas  !  we  were  arrested  by  a 
storm  of  indignant  eloquence,  directed  against  poor 
Barney,  who,  it  seemed,  had  taken  the  master's  own 
particular  bridle  for  our  use  ;  and  many  were  the 
exclamations,  while  he  in  the  most  leisurely  way 
removed  the  handsome  bridle,  replacing  it  with  an 
article  that  would  scarcely  hold  together.  At  last  we 
fairly  mounted  our  vehicle,  Barney  in  the  driver's  seat, 
my  Irish  friend  occupying  one  side  with  me,  and  on 
the  other  our  English  youth  with  his  hat-box,  and  a 
mountain  of  luggage  piled  up  between. 

Away  we  went,  at  a  tolerably  equal  pace,  so  long 
as  the  fine  level  pavement  of  the  quay  lay  beneath  us  ; 


22  LETTER   I 

but,  Oh!  the  jolting  that  ensued,  when,  after  crossing 
the  river,  we  began  to  ascend  and  descend  the  abrupt 
little  hills !  My  spirits  rose  to  the  highest  pitch  of 
joyousness,  while  the  vehicle  danced  along,  as  if  in 
sympathy  with  my  bounding  heart.  The  road  was 
narrow  and  wild,  the  banks  low ;  and  our  position  of 
course  commanded  only  a  view  of  one  side  of  the 
country  ;  but  that  was  a  highly  Irish  one.  If  you  ask 
what  is  the  distinctive  mark  of  an  Irish  landscape, 
where  the  country  has  no  particular  feature  of  moun- 
tain, valley,  or  wood,  I  must  reply,  that  it  consists 
chiefly  in  a  gradual  easy  swell  of  ground,  from  the 
road  upwards,  divided  into  portions  much  smaller 
than  we  usually  see  in  England,  fenced  by  very  low 
boundaries  of  a  few  stones,  or  a  bank  of  earth,  but 
rarely  displaying  a  quickset  hedge  or  row  of  trees. 
This  method  of  laying  out  the  ground  gives  you  a  full 
view  of  each  separate  patch  ;  and  these  again,  being 
variously  cultivated,  present  a  picture  altogether  dis- 
similar from  English  scenery.  The  background,  in 
this  part  of  Ireland,  is  almost  invariably  a  fine  moun- 
tain peak,  or  chain  of  gigantic  hills  rearing  their  dark 
summits  against  the  sky.  Add  to  this  the  frequent 
glimpse  obtained,  new  of  some  venerable  ruin,  stand- 
ing alone  in  its  little  surrounding  sanctuary  of  grass 
and  shrubs ;  then,  perhaps,  a  light  playful  stream 
murmuring  over  the  bright  pebbles ;  and  anon,  a  noble 
plantation,  holding  in  its  bosom  the  family  mansion, 
the  glebe  house,  and  often  the  village  church.  And 
at  this  season  you  may  fill  up  the  canvas  with  every 
variety  of  rich  and  glowing  tint  the  whole  family  of 
wild  flowers  can  supply.  Although  quite  the  end  of 
June,  we  were  regaled  with  the  choicest  beauties  of 


COUNTS   WEXFORD.  23 

spring,  mingled  with  those  of  midsummer.  Shrabs 
and  trees  of  the  hawthorn,  presenting  literally  one 
mass  of  rich  and  fragrant  blossoms,  adorned  the  road- 
side ;  and  these,  as  we  advanced  farther  into  Wex 
ford,  were  richly  interspersed  with  tall  bushes  of 
furze,  not  yet  entirely  stripped  of  their  golden  buds. 
It  was  not  until  we  had  left  New  Ross  considerably 
behind  us,  that  we  found  ourselves  thus  hedged  in  : 
but  never  did  we  miss  the  glorious  profusion  of  flow- 
ers, among  which  the  foxglove,  larger  and  more  beau- 
tiful than  I  have  usually  seen  it  in  our  gardens,  con- 
tinually reared  its  head,  waving  above  the  little  rude 
fence  of  stones  that  often  constituted  the  only  barrier 
between  us  and  the  corn  or  potatoe-field. 

But  you  will  expect  to  hear  something  of  New 
Ross,  the  antiquity  of  which  I  greatly  longed  to  ex- 
plore ;  for,  although  still  called  '  New,'  it  was  char- 
tered by  Richard  II.,  and  was  at  a  very  early  period 
a  place  of  great  strength.  A  more  recent  and  painful 
interest  also  attaches  to  it,  from  its  having  been  the 
scene  of  a  sanguinary  battle  in  the  rebellion  of  1798, 
when  thirty  thousand  Roman  Catholics  attacked  the 
town,  defended  by  about  twelve  hundred  effective 
troops,  and  a  hundred  and  fifty  yeomen.  The  assail- 
ants were  fully  armed  with  muskets  and  pikes,  and 
had  four  large  guns,  besides  swivels.  A  number  of 
Romish  priests,  robed,  and  bearing  crucifixes  in  their 
hands,  moved  through  the  lines,  kindling  the  wildest 
enthusiasm  in  the  bosoms  of  their  unhappy  victims. 
As  we  crossed  the  bridge  above  the  noble  river  Bar- 
row, and  ascended  the  exceedingly  steep  streets, 
I  could  not  but  shudder  at  the  recollections  excited : 
for,  within  the  memory  of  some  who  then  surrounded 


2-i  LETTER    1. 

us,  those  streets  had  actually  been  choked  up  and  the 
passage  impeded  by  heaps  of  mangled  bodies,  the 
victims  of  civil  war.  I  saw  the  spot  where  a  sergeant 
of  the  Donegal  militia,  with  sixteen  men  and  two 
badly  mounted  ship  guns,  defended  his  post  against 
six  hundred  furious  assailants,  whom  he  repulsed 
with  tremendous  slaughter.  The  bare  fact  that  six 
carts,  with  a  great  number  of  men,  were  employed 
throughout  the  whole  of  two  long  summer  days  in 
collecting  the  dead  bodies,  and  shooting  them  into 
the  river  hard  by,  gives  an  appalling  view  of  the 
scene.  It  was  here,  too,  that  the  circumstance  really 
took  place,  which  I  have  seen  in  the  form  of  a  jest, 
and  of  course  considered  an  absurd  fabrication.  One 
of  the  infatuated  rebels,  relying  no  doubt  on  some 
imaginary  charm  conferred  by  his  priest,  rushed  up 
to  a  cannon,  just  as  the  gunner  was  about  to  apply 
his  match,  and  thrusting  his  hat  and  wig  into  it,  cried 
out,  "  Come  on,  boys,  her  mouth  is  stopped!"  In  an 
instant  he  was  blown  to  pieces. 

I  could  not,  however,  take  more  than  a  hasty  sur- 
vey of  the  corner  of  the  town  through  which  we 
passed  ;  time  only  allowing  us  to  regale  on  a  dish  of 
mutton  chops  and  exquisite  potatoes  j  which,  toge- 
ther with  the  assiduous  attention  of  the  waiter,  re- 
minded me  again  that  I  was  in  Ireland.  The  genuine 
courtesy  with  which  this  class  of  people  here  fulfil 
their  duties,  and  solicitously  strive  to  anticipate  your 
wishes,  with  their  thankful  acknowledgment  of  a  small 
gratuity  at  parting,  is  remarkable :  it  belongs  to  that 
national  hospitality  which,  go  where  you  will,  delights 
to  cherish  you.  This  I  will  say  of  the  lower  orders 
oi  liish  neonle,  that  a  smile  and  a  kind  speech  ad- 


COUNTY    WEXFORD.  25 

diessed  to  them,  an  avoidance  of  contemptuous  looks 
or  disparaging  remarks  on  what  is  before  you,  and  a 
fair  word  of  commendation  with  regard  to  anything 
Irish,  when  you  can  utter  it  in  their  presence,  will,  in 
ninety-nine  cases  out  of  a  hundred,  win  their  warm 
hearts,  and  render  them  for  the  time  being  your 
attached,  devoted  servants.  I  envy  not  the  person 
who  would  derive  no  pleasure  from  this  return  for 
pleasure  conferred.  Sunshiny  looks  enliven  the 
dreariest  scene  ;  and  why  should  we  not  elicit  them] 
At  New  Ross  we  parted  from  Barney,  after  making 
him  as  happy  as  we  could  ;  first  by  chatting  on  the 
road,  asking  him  numerous  questions,  and  letting  him 
hear  our  exclamations  of  delight  at  revisiting  his 
loved  country.  The  only  cloud  that  passed  over  his 
countenance  arose  from  my  asking  if  he  could  speak 
Irish.  "Spake  it  •!"  he  replied,  with  some  warmth  : 
"Why  shouldn't  I  spake  it,  and  I  an  Irishman  V  But 
when  he  heard  us  extolling  its  antiquity,  and  heartily 
wishing  we  knew  as  much  of  it  as  he  did,  his  coun- 
tenance shone  with  smiles  ;  and  he  opened  the  store- 
house of  his  knowledge,  both  local  and  traditional, 
with  liberal  hand.  If  ever  you  travel  in  this  country, 
particularly  in  the  more  retired  quarters  of  it,  I  recom- 
mend you  to  pursue  a  similar  plan :  for  it  is  astonishing 
what  a  mine  of  original  thought  and  curious  informa- 
tion, conveyed  in  language  the  most  quaint  and  ex- 
pressive, you  will  frequently  open.  I  have  not  to  re- 
proach myself  with  merely  jesting  and  chattering 
luring  our  short  ride  ;  for  when  the  poor  man  pointed 
out  the  spot  where  a  cruel  murder  had  recently  been 
committed,  and  gave  us  the  particulars,  I  spoke  freely 
to  him  of  the  blessed  effects  which  would  result  from 
3 


26  LETTER    I. 

a  knowledge  of  God's  love  in  giving  his  own  Son  to 
die  for  sinners;  and  strove  to  lead  his  mind  to  the 
great  propitiation  offered  for  our  transgressions.  He 
not  only  listened,  but  gave  a  cordial  and  feeling  assent 
to  what  was  said. 

After  leaving  New  Ross  we  were  engaged  in  an 
adventure  that  threatened  serious  consequences.  De- 
scending a  narrow,  broken  road,  we  were  to  pass  a 
line  of  small  cars  laden  with  stones,  the  leaders  of 
which  either  had  some  party  feud  with  our  driver,  or 
were  exceedingly  ill-disposed.  When  desired  to  let 
us  pass,  they  returned  a  volley  of  irritating  language, 
addressed  to  him  :  and  one  man  seized  our  horse's 
head,  endeavoring  to  drag  us  into  a  dry  ditch  by  the 
road  side.  He  reeled,  however,  so  much  from  intoxi- 
cation, that  he  twice  lost  his  hold  ;  and  on  the  third 
unsuccessful  attempt,  our  driver  managed  to  slip  by 
him,  and  to  clear  the  whole  line.  Had  the  man  lost 
his  temper,  or  the  horse  been  restive,  or  had  we  exhi- 
bited any  signs  either  of  fear  or  resentment,  I  know 
not  what  might  have  occurred ;  but  through  the 
mercy  of  God  all  parties  were  restrained,  and  we  pro- 
ceeded in  safety. 

Barney's  successor  was  not  so  interesting  as  he,  but 
possessed  a  fund  of  humor  and  drollery,  delivered  in 
a  dry,  quaint  way,  that  kept  the  boys  in  a  continual 
roar  of  merriment.  We  introduced  the  youngest  of 
our  party  as  an  Englishman :  no  one  could  have 
mistaken  the  other  for  aught  but  what  he  is — in- 
tensely Irish — and  I  am  proud  to  say,  that  among  the 
natives  of  this  land  I  am  universally  greeted  as  a 
countrywoman,  and  never  betray  myself  unnecessarily. 
So  Pat  thought  he  had  the  majority  in  his  favor  f  j»- 


COUNTY    WEXFORD.  27 

tirely ;  and  the  broadsides  of  sly  wit  that  he  dis- 
charged at  the  solitary  John  Bull  were  irresistible. 
On  my  making  some  passing  remark  expressive  of 
warm  attachment  to  Ireland,  he  said  nothing,  but 
leaping  down  from  his  elevated  seat  went  to  the  haw- 
thorn hedge-row,  and  cut  the  most  beautiful  plume- 
like spray  of  its  delicate  blossoms  that  ever  I  beheld. 
Of  the  look  and  gesture  with  which  he  presented  it 
I  can  only  say,  that  if  I  were  to  carry  a  costly  tribute 
of  loyalty  to  the  foot  of  a  throne,  I  would  try  to  imi- 
tate the  carman  of  New  Ross.  These  people  are  all 
heart ;  all  glowing  warmth  and  devotion  of  feeling. 
Oh  that  we  studied  them  aright  for  their  own  profit  5 
and  strove  to  lead  in  bands  of  love  those  who  cannot, 
will  not  be  driven  by  the  goad  of  stern  authority. 

The  mountain  range,  behind  which  the  sun  had  dis- 
appeared, now  rose  in  grander  altitude  and  more  de- 
fined outline,  as  we  approached  the  foot  of  its  fine 
termination.  Blackstairs  and  Mount  Leinster,  consti- 
tuting in  appearance  a  single  mountain,  soon  engross- 
ed the  landscape  of  which  they  had  formed  the  back 
ground  j  and  most  majestically  do  they  rise  before 
my  window  in  this  delightful  mansion,  where  all  the 
graces  of  polished  elegance  were  combined  with  the 
ardor  of  Irish  hospitality,  to  welcome  us  at  the 
threshold.  Late  as  it  was,  we  found  the  family  din- 
ner table  awaiting  the  expected  completion  of  its  joy- 
ous circle  ;  and  though  I  had  not  been  in  bed  for  i,wo 
nights,  and  was  pretty  well  fatigued  with  such  a  day's 
jaunt  over  roads  of  indescribable  ruggedness,  I  lin- 
gered long  to  trace  under  the  soft  twilight  of  this 
summer  midnight,  the  wavy  line  of  Blackstairs  moun- 
tain j  and  rose,  almost  with  the  sun,  to  explore  the  am- 


28  LETTER    I. 

phitheatre  that  seemed  to  shut  me  in.  Indeed,  I  was 
rather  too  early;  for  a  tremendously  fine  watch  dog, 
seeing  a  stranger  in  the  grounds  at  that  hour,  thought 
it  right  to  arrest  my  steps,  which  he  did  by  taking  up 
a  position  at  about  four  feet  distance,  and  sustaining 
one  continuous  bark,  that  would  have  shaken  stronger 
nerves.  I  dared  not  advance  or  retreat ;  so  stood 
perfectly  still,  neither  speaking  nor  shrinking,  nor 
menacing;  but  looking  as  innocent  and  unconcerned 
as  the  circumstances  would  admit  of:  well  knowing 
the  dog  to  be  a  shrewd  physiognomist.  Great  was  my 
relief  when  some  one  from  the  house  called  him  ofF. 
I  record  the  event  for  the  benefit  of  early  risers  in 
strange  places ;  and  shall  henceforth  take  especial 
care  to  procure  an  immediate  introduction  to  all  the 
dogs  in  the  family,  wherever  I  go.  Happily  for  me, 
this  was  a  civil  Newfoundlander  :  he  has  a  comrade  of 
prodigious  size,  a  mastiff,  who,  had  I  crossed  his  path 
while  ranging  on  guard,  would  probably  have  torn  me 
in  pieces.  The  house  would  not,  humanly  speaking, 
be  safe  for  a  moment,  from  nightfall  to  sunrise,  with- 
out these  faithful  sentinels,  whose  wrell-known  fero- 
city in  defence  of  their  charge  holds  many  a  midnight 
foe  at  bay.  They  are  indeed  a  noble  gift  to  man  from 
his  all-bountiful  Creator. 


LETTER   II. 


COUNTY  WEXFORD. 

July,  1837. 
My  last  was  a  sketch  of  our  transit  to  this  place :  I 
now  proceed  to  matters  of  deeper  interest.  To  visit 
Ireland  with  no  purpose  of  promoting  in  any  way  the 
good  of  her  people,  would  be  criminal  indeed ;  and  I 
know  no  way  of  promoting  it  so  effectually,  as  by 
bringing  their  actual  state  fairly  before  the  public  eye 
in  England.  I  write,  of  course,  with  that  view,  and 
will  relate  nothing  which  cannot  be  substantiated. 
Books  are  perpetually  coming  out  on  Irish  subjects, 
but  none  that  meet  the  case.  One  travels  with  a  view 
of  ascertaining  the  existing  relationship  between  land- 
lord and  tenant,  scanning  with  a  sharp  judicious  eye 
what  bears  on  that  point ;  but  caring  for  none  of  those 
things  which  stand  in  the  same  relative  position  to  the 
other  as  the  soul  does  to  the  body.  A  second  makes 
a  tour  in  search  of  the  picturesque  j  anxious  to  be 
himself  pleased,  and  to  please  his  readers,  he  care- 
fully screens  off  from  view  whatever  would  mar  the 
beauty  of  his  picture,  and  introduces  immortal  beings 
as  he  does  the  stocks  and  stones,  to  heighten  the  land- 
scape. Or  else,  with  a  cynical  supercilious  discon- 
tent, finds  fault  with  everything,  without  attempting 
either  to  ascertain  the  disease  or  to  suggest  a  remedy. 
3* 


30  LETTER   II. 

Another  comes  over,  fully  awake  to  the  supreme  im- 
portance of  the  moral  and  spiritual  branch  of  the  sub- 
ject ;  but  having  received  a  wrong  bias  at  home,  he 
visits  Ireland  much  in  the  spirit  with  which  some  good 
people  open  their  Bibles,  anxious  to  discover  some- 
what in  favor  of  his  preconceived  notions,  instead  of 
being  willing  to  model  them  by  what  he  shall  find 
there.  They  who  know  the  vast  influence  of  first  im- 
pressions, particularly  where  the  individual  is  prone 
to  jump  to  hasty  conclusions,  may,  if  they  have  an 
interest  in  the  matter,  give  the  desired  coloring-  to  all 
that  he  shall  see,  by  commending  him  at  the  outset  to 
a  clever  misrepresenter  of  facts;  a  character  by  no 
means  hard  to  find  among  the  divided  and  deeply-pre- 
judiced parties  of  this  unhappy  land,  and  so  the  result 
shall  be  a  heavy  blow  unconsciously  dealt  to  his 
friends,  and  a  chuckling  triumph  secured  to  their  foes. 
Now  I  am  not  going  to  set  myself  up  as  an  oracle, 
where  so  many  have  failed ;  far  from  it.  My  purpose 
is,  simply,  to  read  Ireland  as  I  read  an  important  book : 
to  receive  no  text  without  a  careful  examination  of 
the  context ;  and  on  every  occasion  to  recur  to  first 
principles.  Or,  if  you  prefer  a  plainer  expression,  to 
judge  of  the  tree  by  its  fruit. 

Shall  I  recite  my  political  creed,  that  prominent 
consideration  in  these  troublous  days'?  I  believe 
that  God  is  the  supreme  and  only  source  of  all  human 
authority:  that  His  revealed  will  in  the  Holy  Scrip- 
tures is  the  plummet  line  whereby  the  whole  work  of 
government  must  be  directed  ;  the  foundation  being 
that  wrhich  God  has  laid,  and  beside  which  "other 
foundation  can  no  man  lay,"  even  Christ  Jesus,  King 
of  kings,  and  Lord  of  lords,   I  know  him  to  be ;  and 


COUNTY    WEXFORD.  31 

whatsoever  rebels  against  his  authority,  or  waives  the 
consideration  of  it  for  any  purpose  whatever,  is  a  step 
from  legitimate  rule  to  anarchical  revolution  ;  its  ob- 
ject being  to  unseat  the  king  from  the  holy  hill  where- 
on he  is  enthroned,  and  wherefrom  he  looks  down, 
principalities  and  powers  being  made  subject  to  him. 
With  me,  the  question  is  not,  what  says  Mr.  O'Connell, 
or  what  say  the  priests,  or  what  says  the  Earl  of  Ro- 
den,  but  what  says  the  Lord  %  I  ask  not,  Is  this  or 
that  measure,  or  is  it  not,  recommended  by  its  expe- 
diency, its  aptitude  to  meet  present  emergencies,  its 
concurrence  in  the  flowing  tide  of  popular  opinion, 
and  passing  events;  but,  is  it  consistent  with  the  un- 
changeable decrees  promulgated  by  divine  authority  1 
Does  it  "  render  unto  God  the  things  that  are  God's," 
and  show  those  who  act  it  out  to  be  ruling  in  the  fear 
of  the  Lord  1  If  not,  then  I  appeal  to  effects,  in  proof 
that  a  contrary  course  is  not  to  be  pursued  with  even 
the  semblance  of  present  success;  for  as  godliness 
has  promise,  as  wTell  of  the  life  that  now  is  as  of  that 
which  is  to  come,  so  does  ungodliness  bring  its  pro- 
moters to  shame  and  confusion  of  face  amono-  men, 
while  they  treasure  up  for  themselves  wrath  against 
the  great  and  terrible  day. 

If  it  can  be  shown  by  incontestible  proof,  that  there 
is  one  system  exceedingly  abhorrent  to  all  that  God 
enjoins,  opposing  and  exalting  itself  above  Christ, 
usurping  his  exclusive  prerogative  of  a  priest  upon 
his  throne,  teaching  for  doctrines  the  commandments 
of  men,  and  those  too  stamped  in  the  Holy  Scriptures 
with  that  awful  character,  "  Doctrines  of  devils  ;"  if 
there  be  a  power  that  reckons  among  the  staple  com- 
modities of  its   merchandize,  "  souls  of  men  j"  de* 


3'2  LETTEU    II. 

stroying  them  by  assuming  to  dispense  at  its  own 
sovereign  pleasure  what  none  can  receive  but  as  the 
free  gift  of  Him  who  bought  both  it  and  them  at  the 
costly  price  of  His  own  blood  ; — if  this  usurping  and 
malignant  power  be  clearly  defined  in  God's  word, 
branded  with  a  name  that  expresses  a  direct  and  total 
contrariety  to  Christ  and  his  gospel,  and  expressly 
marked  for  a  final  destruction  distinct  from  all  other 
visitations  of  the  Divine  vengeance,  while  the  only 
way  of  escape  from  that  impending  doom  is  opened 
to  its  subjects  in  a  proclamation  from  heaven,  "  Come 
out  of  her,  my  people  ;  be  ye  not  partakers  of  her 
sins,  that  ye  receive  not  of  her  plagues  ;  then  I  say, 
that  whatsoever  tends  to  strengthen  the  position  of 
this  adversary,  to  extend,  confirm,  or  even  to  sane 
tion  the  authority  already  usurped  over  any  part  of 
God's  heritage,  or  to  shade  off  the  broad  black  line 
of  demarcation  laid  down  by  the  inspired  penmen, 
who  spake  as  they  were  moved  by  the  Holy  Ghost, — 
I  say  that  it  is  an  act  of  deliberate  rebellion  against 
the  Most  High ;  an  open  attempt  to  prevent  the  king- 
doms of  this  world  from  becoming  the  kingdoms  of 
our  God  and  of  his  Christ.  These  are  my  principles, 
this  is  my  faith,  not  acquired  by  associating  with  any 
particular  set  of  men,  but  built  on  the  immutable  word 
of  God.  Politics  and  religion!  what  an  idle  distinc- 
tion. It  is  as  though  on  meeting  you,  instead  of  the 
simple  salutation  of  "  I  am  glad  to  see  you,"  I  were 
to  say,  "I  am  glad  to  see  your  body  and  soul."  To 
be  sure  the  thing  is  understood  ;  for  I  should  grieve 
to  see  your  body  without  the  soul,  well  knowing  that 
it  must  then  be  rapidly  approaching  the  loathsome 
corruption  of  the  grave  5  but  while  I  behold  it  living 


COUNTY    WEXFORD.  33 

and  thriving,  I  know  that  the  soul  is  there,  and  the 
union  complete.  That  soul  will  outlive  the  body,  as 
spiritual  religion  will  outlive  the  body  politic  :  but  as 
well  might  your  mortal  frame  perform  the  functions 
of  an  animated  and  intelligent  being,  while  your  soul 
was  carried  away  into  Abraham's  bosom,  as  the  gov- 
erning organs  of  a  people  on  whom  the  light  of  reve- 
lation has  shone,  can  act  and  prosper  in  the  absence 
of  that  great  main-spring  of  vitality — Christian  prin- 
ciple. 

And  the  Lord,  in  pity  to  the  blindness  and  unbelief 
of  our  hearts,  has  vouchsafed  a  perpetual  witness  to 
the  truth  of  his  word.  My  purpose,  therefore,  is  not 
in  the  course  of  this  tour  to  declaim  upon  causes,  but 
to  trace  effects.  The  inference  will  make  itself  un- 
derstood. I  put  spiritual  things  first,  because  revela- 
tion and  reason  alike  give  the  pre-eminence  to  that 
which  is  enduring  :  but  faith  is  of  all  thirig-s  the  most 
practical  :  and  if  there  be  a  statute  book  that  even  to 
the  minutest  particular  takes  thought  for  the  tempo- 
ral interest  and  personal  comfort  of  the  poor  of  the 
land,  that  book  is  the  Bible.  Political  economists 
enter  upon  a  mazy  track,  dark,  full  of  obstacles, 
indented  with  pits,  overgrown  with  entanglements: 
and  then,  having  carefully  extinguished  or  buried  their 
torches,  they  blunder  on,  now  lodging  their  feet  in  a 
quagmire,  now  fracturing  their  skulls  against  a  branch, 
now  finishing:  a  breathless  and  exulting-  course  at  the 
precise  point  whence  they  started.  Each  cries  out  to 
his  neighbor,  "  Your  road  is  impassable  ;"  each  in 
turn  makes  the  same  discovery  respecting  his  own  ; 
yet  sure  I  am,  that  if  they  had  light  unto  their  feet 
they  would  find  a  safe  and  pleasant  path,  pr^n-"-*^1  v~ 


34  LETTER   II. 

Him   who   is  not   the    author    of  confusion,  but  of 
peace. 

I  have  looked  around  me  with  an  earnest  desire  to 
obtain  clear  views  on  that  stiffly-contested  point,  the 
origin  of  Irish  evils.  Their  existence  is  not  disputed, 
neither  can  any  person  actually  on  the  spot,  who  has 
had  previous  opportunities  of  investigation,  deny  that 
they  have  alarmingly  increased.  I  have  no  hesi- 
tation in  declaring  that,  trunk  and  branch,  they  spring 
and  thrive  from  one  plain  root,  culpable  neglect  of  the 
poor ;  and  that  one  remedy  alone  can  reach  the  seat 
of  disease,  a  competent  provision  for  that  neglected 
class.  You  will  not  suppose  that  in  these  words  I 
include  only  bodily  relief:  I  do  indeed  believe,  and 
am  perfectly  certain,  that  without  a  permanent,  legal- 
ized, sufficient  provision,  on  the  plan  of  a  poor-law 
enactment,  nothing  whatever  will  be  done  to  improve 
the  state  of  Ireland ;  but  I  am  equally  sure  that  the 
most  ample  supply  of  all  their  temporal  need  will  be 
alike  inefficacious,  while  their  minds  remain  under 
the  baneful  influence  of  Popery.  It  is  idle  to  argue 
the  contrary,  from  the  fact  of  some  continental  na- 
tions presenting  a  picture  of  tranquil  industry  and 
comparative  prosperity,  while  still  in  bondage  to  the 
See  of  Rome:  they  are  not  subjects  of  an  essentially 
Protestant  State :  nor  is  it  the  interest  of  their  priests 
to  encourage  disaffection  to  their  respective  govern- 
ments. If  it  were  so,  the  history  of  the  world,  from 
the  first  rise  of  the  Papal  kingdom  to  this  time,  fur- 
nishes proof  that  they  would  speedily  find  a  pretext 
for  exciting  the  people.  The  cruel,  shameful  neglect, 
that  allows  the  Irish  peasant  to  perish  in  utter  desti- 
tiiticr:,  is  indeed  a  powerful  weapon  in  the  hands  of 


COUNTY    WEXFORD.  35 

his  misleaders ;  but,  were  that  removed,  so  long  as 
the  high  places  in  the  State,  the  revenues  of  the 
Church,  the  magisterial  and  military  power,  are  not 
lodged  exclusively  with  themselves,  so  long  will  those 
whose  influence  governs  the  popular  mass,  both  of  mind 
and  matter,  in  this  country,  be  movers  of  sedition- 
Trust  me,  while  Mordecai  sits  in  the  gate,  his  ancient 
enemy,  Haman,  who  abhors  his  race,  will  disregard 
with  sullen  unthankfulness  all  the  favors,  all  the  privi- 
leges that  can  be  heaped  upon  him,  and  go  to  his 
house  heavy  and  displeased. 

I  am  in  Wexford :  in  a  place  where  blood  cries 
from  the  ground  with  a  mighty  and  terrible  voice.  If 
I  never  proceed  further  on  my  journey,  the  spots  that 
within  a  day's  excursion  I  have  looked  on  would  fur- 
nish proof  sufficient  for  my  purpose.  Travellers  seem, 
by  general  consent,  to  pass  by  the  appalling  recollec- 
tions inseparable  from  these  places  ;  considering  it  a 
breach  of  charity  openly  to  revive  them.  But  charity 
calls  for  a  different  line  of  conduct  where  the  past 
affords  an  important  lesson  for  present  use,  and  offers 
a  safeguard  against  the  future  recurrence  of  those 
terrible  incidents. 

The  question  forcing  itself  upon  the  mind  is  this : 
do  the  same  elements  now  exist  in  an  equally  formida- 
ble state,  and  with  the  same  combining  and  directing 
power  at  hand  to  wield  them,  as  when,  in  ninety-eigh^ 
the  beautiful  landscape  that  lies  before  me  in  soft, 
unbroken  repose,  was  transformed  into  a  wild  battle- 
field, reddened  with  blood  and  flame.  I  am  forced  to 
reply,  they  do :  they  exist  in  the  consciousness  of 
union  and  strength,  with  an  object  more  defined,  in  a 
position  incalculably  more  advantageous :  successor 


36  LETTER    II. 

gained,  at  least  in  their  opinion,  through  intimidation, 
at  once  improve  their  ground,  and  inspire  them  with 
confidence.  The  authority  to  which  they  implicitly 
bow  has  been  recognized,  honored,  advanced,  by  the 
legislature;  its  demands  as  yet  meet  no  repulse; 
therefore  the  act  that  would  in  a  moment  once  more 
array  the  mass  of  the  population  against  the  govern- 
ment, is  suspended.  But  how  may  the  palpable  dan- 
ger be  averted  1  That  is  a  query  the  importance  of 
which  you  may  partially  feel,  at  the  safe  distance  of 
your  quiet  home  :  to  comprehend  its  thrilling  interest 
aright,  you  must  be  domesticated  awhile  under  a  Pro- 
testant roof,  in  the  south  or  west  of  Ireland.  The 
only  alternative  is  to  be  sought  either  in  the  forcible 
suppression  of  an  insurrectionary  tendency,  by  hold- 
ing the  sword  suspended  over  a  whole  people,  or  in 
the  dissolution  of  a  confederacy  that  gives  life  and  mo- 
tion to  the  hostile  body.  So  long  as  the  Romish 
hierarchy  and  priesthood  retain  the  essential  charac- 
ter of  their  class,  they  will  stand  prepared  to  wield 
the  whole  moral  and  physical  force  of  their  boasted 
millions  against  us :  so  long  as  the  Irish  peasant  con- 
tinues to  suffer  under  the  grinding  oppression,  to 
endure  the  helpless,  hopeless  wretchedness  of  his 
unspeakably  destitute  state,  he  will  be  a  weapon  ready 
whetted  for  the  work  of  destruction.  The  miseries 
that  he  endures,  and  which  he  knows  must  thicken 
upon  him  as  his  years  increase,  render  him  at  once 
desperate  as  to  his  present  conduct  and  fate,  and 
doubly  solicitous  to  insure  a  happier  lot  in  the  world 
to  come.  This,  he  is  taught,  can  be  done,  and  done 
only,  by  the  most  perfect  submission  to  his  spiritual 
guides ;  and  whither  such  guidance  may  lead — has 


COUNTY    WEXFORD.  37 

led — every  spot  of  ground  about  me  bears  awful  wit- 
ness ;  for,  I  am  in  Wexford! 

The  original  plotters  of  the  rebellion  m  1798,  as 
far  as  it  can  be  traced,  were  nominal  Protestants,  in- 
fected by  the  revolutionary  mania  of  France,  and 
blindly  expecting  to  find  in  their  Romish  country- 
men, not  only  ready  instruments  for  their  murderous 
work,  but  fellow-helpers  in  abolishing  all  systems  of 
religion  together.  The  latter,  on  the  other  hand, 
practised  what  their  republican  allies  had  projected, 
and  made  efficient  tools  of  the  men  who  thought  to 
do  the  same  by  them,  'i  his  was  speedily  discovered, 
only  too  late  for  the  wretched  dupes  thus  taken  in 
their  own  snare.  The  insurrectionary  war,  com- 
menced on  political  ground,  quickly  assumed  its  natu- 
ral character  of  a  religious  contest:  and  no  victims 
were  more  readily  sacrificed  to  the  bigotry  of  the 
priest-led  troops,  than  the  nominal  Protestants  who 
had  incited  them  to  rebellion.  Bagenal  Harvey,  the 
nominee  of  the  Dublin  Directory,  whom  they  affected 
to  recognize  as  genera!-in-chief  in  this  his  native 
county,  possessed  not  half  the  real  authority  or  influ- 
ence that  any  private  Romanist  in  the  ranks  could 
boast :  while  Father  Murphy,  Father  Roche,  Father 
Redmond,  Father  Kavenagh,  and  the  rest  of  the 
priests,  numbers  of  whom  personally  led  their  flock 
to  combat,  held  the  power  of  life  and  death  so  despot- 
ically that  a  written  line  or  a  spoken  word  from  any 
one  of  them  was  a  safeguard  through  the  whole  san- 
guinary host ;  while  a  frown,  or  an  averted  look, 
delivered  up  the  hapless  suppliant  to  a  terrible  death. 
That  the  same  absolute  authority  is  enjoyed  by  the 
Romish  priesthood  at  this  day,  no  one  can  venture  to 
4 


38  LETTER    II. 

doubt :  and  that  it  is  now  directed  to  the  looseninc 
of  all  other  bonds,  as  regards  their  poor  victims,  1 
have  already  beheld  a  proof.  I  have  passed  some 
years  in  the  south  of  Ireland,  and  that  too  in  very 
troublous  times,  yet  I  never  witnessed  a  lack  of  res- 
pectful courtesy  on  the  part  of  the  poor  peasant  to- 
wards the  gentry.  It  seems,  however,  that  an  order 
has  lately  been  issued  by  their  priests  in  some  of 
these  districts,  forbidding  the  usual  recognition  of  a 
superior,  should  he  happen  to  be  a  Protestant,  and 
this  of  course  is  obeyed  :  but  at  what  expense  of  feel- 
ing to  many  of  the  poor  people,  their  looks  betray,  as 
they  steal  past  with  a  mortified  air,  or  strut  by  with 
one  of  assumed  bravado.  The  present  policy  of 
their  leaders  is  to  superadd  contempt  to  their  long- 
cherished  hatred  of  the  Saxons  ;  while  flattering  them 
that  the  land  will,  ere  long,  be  again  their  own,  and 
their  cherished  superstition  the  established,  the  exclu- 
sive religion. 

And  now  let  me  give  you  some  insight  into  the 
actual  condition  of  the  people,  on  whose  vivid  imagi- 
nation and  poverty-stricken  spirits  these  golden 
dreams  are  brought  to  bear.  The  Irish  peasant  is  a 
being  so  totally  dissimilar  from  the  same  class  in 
England,  that  your  knowledge  of  the  latter  can  only 
assist  in  obtaining  a  right  view  of  the  former,  by  the 
force  of  contrast.  Our  rural  laborer  takes  a  small 
cottage,  cultivates  the  piece  of  ground  attached  to  it, 
and  by  his  earnings  in  husbandry,  or  whatever  branch 
of  industry  he  may  have  embraced,  pays  his  rent  and 
provides  for  his  family.  Should  sickness,  or  the 
failure  of  work,  or  any  other  real  calamity  reduce  the 
latter  to  actual  want,  a  measure  of  relief  is  granted 


COUNTY    WEXFORD.  39 

by  the  parochial  authorities  ;  and  should  he  become 
disabled,    or    utterly    destitute    of    subsistence,    the 
work-house  affords  an  asylum  to  him  and  to  his  help- 
less dependents.     The  possession  of  land  is  an  object 
of   secondary  importance    to     the  English    laborer: 
settled  employment  being  easily  obtained  in  his  own 
neighborhood.     Bread   is    his  staff  of  life,   and   the 
day's  work  that  gives  him  means  to  purchase  a  loaf 
in  the  evening  is  more  productive  than  he  could  ren- 
der it,  by  raising  a  crop  on  his  own  ground.     Among 
our  peasantry,  no   one  would  think  of  taking  land  for 
cultivation,  unless  he    held    some   little  capital  that 
would  admit  of  a  present   outlay,  in  the  prospect  of  a 
distant  market  for  its  subsequent  produce.     He  pays, 
perhaps,  some  thirty  shillings  or  two  pounds  per   an- 
num, for  a  small  but  substantial  cottage,  well  glazed 
and  weather-proof,  with  its  little   slip   of  garden,  and 
outhouse.     He  has  his  tenement  at  a  fair  valuation  : 
so  long  as  his  rent  is  forthcoming  he  may  safely  cal- 
culate on  the    continuance    of  these    comforts ;  and 
when  all  fails,  a  resource  is  left,  and  he  is  under  no 
apprehension  of  perishing  by  the  road  side. 

But  the  poor  Irish  cottier,  or  laborer,  knows  noth- 
ing of  this  independence.  You  must  imagine,  first,  a 
state  of  society  where  the  individual  past  work  has  no 
public  asylum,  no  gratuitous  provision  of  any  sort 
whatever  in  store  :  the  only  prospect  is  that  of  hav- 
ing children  grown  up,  who,  through  the  powerful 
influence  of  natural  feelings,  cherished  as  most  sacred 
among  these  people,  will  be  constrained  to  shelter 
and  sustain  an  infirm  parent.  Go  where  you  will 
among  the  Irish  poor,  you  may  hear  this  motive 
expressly  assigned  for  the  very   early  marriages  that 


40  LETTER    II. 

they  contract.  If  they  deferred  the  engagement 
until  they  might  have  realized  some  little  matter  to 
begin  the  world  with,  their  children  would  not  be 
sufficiently  grown  to  take  charge  of  them,  on  the 
approach  of  the  prematare  old  age  induced  by  their 
severe  privations  and  over- work.  Accordingly,  they 
hasten  to  torm  an  alliance.  The  mere  boy,  anticipat- 
ing the  period  when  he  shall  no  longer  be  able  to. 
labor  for  himself,  determines  to  provide  betimes 
against  the  evil  day,  and  looks  about  for  a  girl  to  suit 
him,  when,  in  all  probability,  the  connexions  of  both 
parties  can  scarcely  muster  among  them  the  means 
for  paying  the  exorbitant  marriage  fee  which  the 
priest  never  omits  to  demand.  They  must  have  a 
habitation,  and  the  youthful  settler  is  not  long  in 
finding  a  cabin  with  its  single  apartment,  mud  walls, 
ceiling  of  thatch,  and  floor  of  earth.  Chimney  h  has 
probably  none  ;  the  window  is  merely  an  aperture  in 
the  side  ;  the  door  a  few  broken  boards  patched 
together,  and  the  fire-place  a  stone  laid  on  the  bare 
ground.  For  furniture,  there  is  a  straw  palliasse,  or 
very  likely  only  a  litter  of  straw  shaken  down  in  one 
corner,  to  form  the  bed,  and  perhaps  a  blanket  or  so. 
A  thick  block,  hewed  from  a  tree,  serves  as  the  table; 
the  householder,  if  ingenious,  may  have  fashioned  out  a 
couple  of  stools  ;  or  some  wealthy  friend  may  present 
him  with  a  wooden  chair.  An  iron  pot  to  boil  pota- 
toes, and  a  mug  of  any  material,  complete  the  neces- 
sary furniture  of  this  abode.  Plates,  knives,  and 
such  appendages,  are  unthought  of.  Whatever  sur- 
plus may  remain  after  satisfying  the  priest,  must  go 
towards  treating  the  friends  of  the  family. 

But  the  rent : — -such  a  cabin  is  rated  as  higdi  as  the 


Englishman's  cottage.      I   do  not  remember  to 
known  less  than  thirty  shillings  charged  on  any  one  in 
a  long  street    of  these  dwellings,  where  I   was    inti- 
mately conversant   with   all  the  details.     How  is  the 
young  tenant  to  pay  this  rent,  entering  on  the  he 
as  he  does,  pennyless,  and  with  the   hopeful  pros,  ect 
of  a   growing  family  to   enliven  it  1     As  the 
cottager  does  I     Xo  :  there  is  no  parallel  he. 
Irish  cottier,  or  laborer,  knows  nothing  of  bread  i 
article  of  food:  his  sc:  res  would  not  pur-:        e 

enough  of  it  to   satisfy  the  cravings  of  his  own 
ger,  much  less  would  they  extend  to  the  f  bis 

family,  and  the  payment  of  his  rent.     The  pota: 
his  only  dependence,  and  the  first  peces&E  .feis 

to  procure  a  plot  01  ground  for  the  cultivation  of  the 
root.  Two  alternatives  alone  appear  :  either  he  must 
agree  with  his  landlord  to  work  out  in  day  labor  the 
amount  of  his  holding,  or  else  he  must  make  the  ground 
attached  to  it  yield  a  sufficiency  for  ail  demands. 
The  latter  he  can  rarely,  if  ever,  do:  for  grown 
be  at  all  productive  demands  frequent  di . 
this  again  requires  an  outlay  of  money,  and  mo.  / 
he  has  none.  If  he  reserves  to  himself  so  much  of 
the  produce  as  will  feed  bis  household,  the  remainder 
will  never  for  any  time  suffice  to  cover  the  landlord's 
claim.  On  the  other  hand,  if  he  undertakes  to  work 
out  the  value  of  his  possession,  a  rate  of  wages  is  in- 
variably fixed  that  leaves  him  far  behindhand  :  and 
the  arrear  accumulating  as  he  goes  od,  increases  his 
difficulties,  depresses  his  mind,  and  paralyses  the 
main-spring  of  industry — honest  independence.  Chil- 
dren are  born,  unavoidable  expenses  are  incurred,  and 
for  the  supply  of  all  these  pressing  wants  he  has  the 
4* 


42  LETTER  II. 

little  potatoe  plot,  which,  in  a  bad  season,  will  not  fur- 
nish his  own  family  with  a  daily  meal  throughout  the 
year.  Some  of  them  must  beg :  it  is  a  sore  trial  to 
his  feelings,  but  how  can  he  help  it !  The  utmost 
that  he  earns  will  barely  satisfy  the  landlord,  and 
avert  an  ejectment,  and  those  whom  he  cannot  feed 
must  cater  for  themselves,  by  appealing  to  casual 
charity. 

But  when  this  bargain  is  not  struck  between  land- 
lord and  tenant,  the  matter  usually  becomes  worse. 
Labor  is  uncertain,  and  dependent  on  seasons  at  the 
best ;  the  earnings  of  an  able-bodied,  industrious  man, 
rarely  exceed  sixpence  a  day,  when  he  can  find  work ; 
and  many  a  day  must  he  stand  idle,  through  the  dis- 
proportionate amount  of  employment  and  of  the  num- 
bers seeking  it.  In  the  summer  he  crosses  the  chan- 
nel,  leaving  his  wife  and  children  to  subsist  by  begging, 
while  he  traverses  England  and  Scotland  in  search  of 
work.  Hay-making,  harvesting,  and  hop-picking, 
afford  him  a  little  profit,  and  he  returns  to  pay  up  part 
of  his  arrear,  and  to  purchase  seed  potatoes  for  the 
ensuing  crop — a  valuable  store,  which  the  poor  crea- 
tures are  frequently  driven  to  consume  for  the  support 
of  nature  before  the  season  arrives  for  committing  it 
to  the  earth. 

But  is  not  this  an  extreme  easel  Would  it  were  ! 
It  is  the  simple,  unadorned  story  of  the  population  in 
more  than  three-fourths  of  Ireland — a  story  that  I 
could  relate  on  my  own  personal  observation,  but 
which  is  placed  beyond  a  question  by  the  heart-rend- 
ing report  of  the  Poor-Law  Commissioners,  who  visit- 
ed every  part  of  the  island,  and  investigated  the  mat- 
ter to  the  bottom.     To  that  report  I  refer  you,  and 


COUNTY  WEXFORD.  43 

after  thus  slightly  sketching  the  outlines  of  a  picture, 
over  the  details  of  which  my  heart  has  often  bled  as 
it  lay — not  the  description,  but  the  very  reality — be- 
neath my  eye,  I  must  ask  you  to  decide,  whether  the 
ingenuity  of  man,  or  of  Satan  himself,  could  contrive 
a  piece  of  machinery  more  admirably  adapted  to  be 
set  in  motion  by  a  designing,  crafty  hand,  than  this 
impoverished,  harassed  people,  endowed  as  they  all 
are  with  fiery  spirits,  quick  apprehension,  daring 
hearts,  and  powerful  frames.  Add  to  this,  that 
through  the  whole  mass  is  infused  the  most  unlimit- 
ed confidence  in,  and  devotion  to,  the  very  system  that 
looks  to  them  for  its  advancement  on  the  ruins  of 
what  they  are  taught  to  believe  is  the  weight  that 
bears  them  down,  and  you  have  an  appalling,  but  a 
correct,  view  of  Ireland,  in  her  present  state  and 
seeming  prospect. 

Forty  years  ago  the  attempt  was  made  and  baffled. 
A  lesson  of  wisdom  was  derivable  from  the  event, 
which  has  been  read  backwards  and  transformed  into 
a  lesson  of  fatuity.  The  vital  principle  of  that  re- 
bellion has  been  nourished,  and  fostered,  and  nursed 
into  more  portentous  growth  and  energy  5  the  means 
of  our  former  deliverance  have  been  rejected,  broken, 
scattered  to  the  winds.  At  best  the  hope  was  faint  and 
the  probabilities  of  success  doubtful  and  contracted, 
as  regarded  the  infusion  of  a  better  spirit  into  the 
adult  race  of  Irish  Romanists  ;  but  a  noble  field  lay 
before  us  in  the  rising  generation  ;  while  the  anxiety 
of  the  poor  parents  to  see  their  children  taught  open- 
ed a  vista  of  brightness  and  beauty,  to  fill  the  Chris- 
tian heart  with  joy.  We  approached  them  with  the 
boon,  of  all  gifts  most  prized  by  them — a  fair  system 


44<  LETTER    II. 

of  education,  combining  useful  knowledge  in  the 
affairs  of  this  life  with  the  far  more  precious  instruc- 
tion that  maketh  wise  unto  salvation.  The  priest- 
hood of  Home  would  necessarily  array  themselves  in 
opposition  to  the  latter,  because  it  was  letting  in  >ight 
where  their  interests  made  the  prevalence  of  itter 
darkness  indispensable  ;  but  experience  had  shown 
that  in  the  breast  of  an  Irish  peasant  one  fee-ling  could, 
prevail  over  the  otherwise  insurmountable  'habit  of 
subjection  to  the  priest.  Despite  of  all  that  the  latter 
could  do,  wherever  a  scriptural  school  was  opened^ 
thither  the  children  flocked  ;  and  if  by  the  force  of 
intimidation,  or,  as  it  often  happened,  by  the  vigorous 
application  of  a  stout  horsewhip,  the  little  ones  were 
for  a  time  arrested  in  their  path,  an  instance  was 
never  known  where  they  did  not  soon  contri'  e  to 
surmount  the  barrier,  and  to  return — flying  like  doves 
to  their  windows.  By  this  means,  a  tie  the  most  en- 
dearing was  gradually  forming  between  the  poor  Ro- 
manist population  and  their  Protestant  landlord-  and 
neighbors.  That  precious  book,  the  message  of  which 
is,  "  Glory  to  God  in  the  highest  ;  on  earth  peace, 
good-will  towards  men,"  was  prevailing  where  nothing 
else  could  prevail,  to  remove  the  mists  of  prejudice* 
and  to  cement  a  band,  indissoluble  by  all  the  craft 
and  subtlety  of  the  devil  or  man.  The  Irish  are  a 
most  affectionate  people  ;  win  their  hearts  and  they 
are  wholly  yours.  What  sight  so  calculate  i  to 
awaken  the  strongest  emotions  of  grateful  attach- 
ment as  that  of  their  children  carefully  tended  and 
taught  under  the  direction  of  their  more  affluent 
neighbors,  receiving  at  their  hands  the  reward  of  dili- 
gence and  ob^  7'ence,  while  the  fruits  of  those  habits 


COUNTY    WEXFORD.  45 

and  of  the  higher  principle  instilled  through  God's 
holy  word,  shed  a  light  and  a  comfort  at  home 
to  which  the  miserable  cabin  had  before  been  a 
stranger. 

Neitner  was  this  a  mere  theory  ;  the  experiment; 
had  been  on  trial  for  some  years,  and  the  effects  wer© 
beorinninsf  to  manifest  themselves  in  a  wav  calculated 
to  make  the  kingdom  of  darkness  tremble  for  the 
foundations  of  its  throne.  Dear  friend,  my  heart 
sickens  over  the  sad  reverse  presented  to  my  view. 
Many  a  delightful  hour  have  I  passed  in  schools  con- 
ducted under  the  different  plans  that,  however  varying 
in  detail,  all  met  in  one  common  centre — and  that 
centre  the  Holy  Bible.  Now>  if  I  see  a  Romish 
chapel,  I  look  in  its  immediate  vicinity — within  the 
very  precincts  of  its  boundary — for  some  new,  spruce 
building,  bearing  the  inscription  "National  School;" 
and  what  is  the  system  of  instruction  adopted  there  1 
The  Bible  is  excluded  ;  a  mutilated  extract,  unfaithful 
even  in  its  mutilations,  is  substituted  nominally  ;  but 
even  that  is  scarcely  ever  used  ;  while  all  the  debas- 
ing fables  of  monkish  superstition,  all  the  contami- 
nating licentiousness  of  the  lowest  classes  of  immoral 
and  indecent  publications,  are  placed  in  the  hands  of 
the  poor  children  ;  and  in  a  multitude  of  instances  the 
person  appointed  to  the  office  of  master,  is  a  furious 
zealot  in  popery  and  sedition.  These,  you  will  say, 
are  strong  statements:  challenge  me  to  the  proof; 
and  proofs  you  shall  have,  too  conclusive  as  to  the 
fact.*1 

Thus  by  an  act  of  infatuation  for  which  the  history 

■■■■™  -•-    ■     ■  ■     ■ — —  ■    «■    .       ■  ■        .  .    . ■■.■■■■  i    i,    ,,     i,  ,,—   _MMW* 

•  Vide  Appendix  A. 


46  LETTER    II 

even  of  Ireland  affords  no  parallel,  the  only  feasible 
plan  for  ameliorating  the  physical,  and  correcting  the 
moral  evils  of  this  people,  has  been  worse  than  aban- 
doned ;  it  has  been  adapted  to  the  aggravation  of 
both.  Whatever  tends  to  rivet  the  fetter  of  papal 
domination  on  the  necks  of  the  Irish  poor,  builds  a 
barrier  against  every  species  of  improvement.  No 
man  in  his  senses  can  affect  blindness  to  the  fact  that 
the  Church  of  Rome  is  straining  everjr  nerve  to  reco- 
ver her  former  footing  in  this  country;  that  is,  to 
reign  as  she  did  for  some  centuries  previous  to  the 
Reformation,  to  enjoy  unreservedly  the  ancient  church 
lands  and  revenues,  and  to  replace  the  forfeited  estates 
in  the  hands  of  her  most  devoted  lay  members.  You 
may  question  this  in  England;  but  in  Ireland  you 
cannot.  The  thing  stares  you  in  the  face  through  all 
gradations  of  proof;  you  see  it  in  the  ostentatious 
magnificence  of  the  costly  mass-house,  far  outvying 
the  Protestant  cathedrals,  while  the  pompous  insignia 
of  men  openly  assuming  the  title  of  Bishops,  glit- 
ters in  the  noon-day  sun ;  in  the  lofty  gait,  the 
vaunting  air,  the  spruce  attire,  and  the  side-long 
glance  of  contemptuous  defiance,  that  prove  the  man 
who  crosses  your  path  to  be  a  priest  of  Rome  ;  and 
in  its  lowest  demonstration,  in  the  insolent  stare,  or 
slinking  avoidance  of  the  poor  laborer  who  dares  not 
touch  the  hat,  or  utter  the  respectful  salutation  that 
he  would  have  formerly  crossed  the  road  to  tender, 
with  all  the  profuse  courtesy  of  his  race.  That  the 
priesthood  of  the  Romish  church,  instructed  by  the 
hierarchy,  are  training  the  people  to  even  more  than 
their  former   subserviency  is  evident   beyond  contra- 


COUNTY    WEXFORD.  47 

diction  ;  and  unless  the  leopaid  has  changed  his  spots, 
the  past  holds  forth  a  dark  augury  for  the  future. 

It  was  on  the  morning  of  Whitsunday,  the  27th  of 
May,  1798,  that  the  rebellion  broke  out  here,  in  Wex- 
ford. Dangerous  indications  had  been  perceived,  and 
the  magistrates  were  on  the  alert,  until  suspicion  was 
lulled  by  an  address  sent  from  the  different  parishes 
to  Lord  Moimtriorris,  remonstrating  on  the  injustice 
of  having  their  loyalty  doubted,  and  demanding  to  be 
sworn  at  their  respefctire  chapels,  to  their  perfect 
freedom  from  ail  insurrectionary  designs.  Lord 
Mountnorris,  accordingly,  with  several  others,  attend- 
ed at  the  altars  of  twenty-eight  Somish  chapels,  where, 
in  the  presence  of  their  priests,  the  congregations  all 
took  the  oath — it  is  awful  to  contemplate  that  solemn 
declaration.  It  contains  an  engagement  to  be  true  to 
the  king  and  his  successors,  to  support  the  existing 
constitution,  and  to  prevent  or  suppress  all  treason 
or  conspiracy;  it  disclaims  all  present  or  future  con- 
nection with  the  United  Irishmen  ;  engages  to  give 
up  all  secreted  arms,  and  to  inform  of  such  as  maybe 
known  to  be  secreted-— cone! uding  in  these  words: 
"All  the  above  I  i^o  most  solemnly  swear,  in  the  pre- 
sence of  the  Almighty,  and  as  I  hope  to  be  saved 
through  the  merits  arid  mediation  of  my  blessed  Lord 
and  Saviour  Jesus  Christ,  without  any  equivocation  or 
mental  reservction  whatsoever.     So  help  me  God." 

These  declaration?,  made  some  months  before,  were 
repeated  on  the  vefy  eve  of  the  outbreak.  More  effect- 
ually to  blind  the  magistrates,  a  good  many  of  the  peo- 
ple were  brought  to  them  by  the  priests  to  make  a 
surrender  of  arms,  which  they  confessed,  with  every 
appearance  of  penitence,  having  formerly  concealed. 


48 


LETTER    II. 


A  vast  number  of  pike-heads  were  thus  given  up,  with 
other  weapons,  mostly  unserviceable,  the  owners 
craving-  forgiveness  for  their  past  illegal  conduct,  and 
requesting  protections  on  this  evidence  of  their  good 
feeling,  which  were  granted,  together  with  certificates 
of  their  loyalty  and  peaceableness,  signed  by  Protes- 
tant magistrates,  clergymen,  churchwardens,  and 
principal  parishioners.  By  these  devices,  in  which 
the  priest  always  sanctioned  them  by  his  presence 
and  acted  as  spokesman,  they  averted  the  proclama- 
tion of  the  different  baronies,  and  the  stationing  of  a 
military  force  among  them.  The  yeomanry  were  con- 
sidered sufficient  for  the  maintenance  of  tranquillity  5 
of  these  a  large  proportion  were  members  of  the 
Romish  Church ;  and  they  not  only  deserted,  with, 
horses,  arms,  and  accoutrements,  to  the  rebels,  but 
were  eager  to  turn  their  weapons  upon  their  former 
commanders^  comrades,  and  the  Protestant  gentry 
whose  houses  they  were  appointed  to  guard. 

One  circumstance,  among  many,  brings  the  crime 
home  to  the  priests  with  fearful  aggravation.  During 
the  whole  week  preceding  the  massacre,  a  magistrate, 
Mr.  Pounden,  sat  here,  at  Enniscorthy,  receiving  the 
oaths,  and  the  surrendered  arms  of  the  people.  Three 
priests,  anxious  to  give  the  greatest  apparent  force  to 
the  obligation,  suggested  that  they  should  be  sworn 
on  a  Romish  manual  ;  this  wras  done  j  protections 
were  given  ;  and  were  found  in  the  pockets  of  those 
who  were  slain  in  their  sanguinary  attack  on  Ennis- 
corthy the  following  Monday,  to  which  the  priests  led 
them  on. 

Mr.  Turner,  the  rector  of  Edermine,  was  employed 
during  the  Saturday  in  administering  this  oath  to  the 


COUNTY  WEXFORD.  49 

crowds  who  pressed  to  take  it  ;  and  on  the  following- 
morning  they  murdered  him,  with  five  of  his  parish- 
ioners, and  consumed  the  bodies  in  the  flames  of  the 
parsonage,  which  they  burned  to  the  ground! 

But  I  am  not  about  to  detail  the  horrors  so  vividly 
brought  to  my  recollection  by  beholding  for  the  first 
time  the  place  where  they  occurred  ;  I  merely  wish 
to  make  good  the  assertion,  that  in  the  frightful  atro- 
cities perpetrated,  the  wretched  people  acted  as 
troops  of  the  Romish  see,  regularly  employed  by  their 
spiritual  directors  to  extirpate  Protestantism.  Their 
leader  was  a  priest,  John  Murphy,  who  personally 
headed  them,  and  commenced  the  crusade  by  lighting 
a  beacon  on  the  hill  of  Corrigua,  as  a  general  signal, 
on  the  Saturday  evening  ;  and  before  day-break  on 
the  morning  of  Whitsunday  he  and  his  flock  were 
steeped  to  the  lips  in  slaughter.  With  the  exception 
of  one  poor  woman,  whose  husband  was  butchered 
before  her  eyes  on  Vinegar  Hill,  and  whose  heart- 
rending story  I  received  from  herself,  I  find  none  who 
will  speak  of  those  events,  although  very  many  are 
now  living  on  the  spot  where  they  saw  their  dearest 
connexions  barbarously  murdered.  I,  also,  shun  the 
theme ;  for  it  is  better  to  avoid  recalling  those  terrific 
scenes,  calculated  as  they  must  also  be  to  increase 
the  feeling  of  insecurity  resulting  from  the  exposed, 
the  humanly  defenceless  state  of  the  handful  of  Protes- 
tants who  are  thinly  scattered  up  and  down  among 
the  multitudes  of  the  adverse  population.  You  will 
say,  Why  then  introduce  them  here  ?  For  the  pur- 
pose I  have  before  named,  to  show  that  not  to  indivi- 
dual hatred,  or  to  political  republicanism,  or  to  the 
destitution  of  the  lower  classes,  are  those  horrors  to 
5 


50 


LETTER    II. 


be  traced,  but  to  the  working-  of  a  system,  the  life- 
spring-  of  which  is  exterminating  enmity  to  the  Pro- 
testant faith  and  name,  and  which  would  produce  to- 
morrow the  self-same  effects,  if  occasion  required  and 
opportunity  admitted  it. 

A  wretched  man,  named  James  Meag-han,  executed 
for  his  deeds  of  blood  on  Vinegar  Hill,  made  a  depo- 
sition, fixing  the  guilt  where  it  chiefly  lay,  stating 
many  circumstances  in  confirmation  thereof,  and  con- 
cluding in  these  words — "  Now,  gentlemen,  remem- 
ber what  I  tell  }^ou  ;  if  you  and  the  Protestants  are 
ever  in  the  power  of  the  Catholics  again,  as  they  are 
now  in  yours,  they  will  not  leave  one  of  you  alive  ; 
you  will  all  go  smack  smooth.  Even  those  who  cam- 
paigned with  them,  if  things  had  gone  well  with  them, 
would  in  the  end  have  been  killed.  I  have  heard 
them  say  so  many  times."  When  he  was  brought  to 
the  place  of  execution,  the  officer  in  command  took 
him  aside  and  read  to  him  the  confession  above  men- 
tioned, and  asked  him  if  it  was  correctly  taken  down. 
He  answered  affirmatively,  and  just  when  about  to  be 
turned  off  he  desired  the  executioner  to  stop,  lifted 
up  the  cap,  and  in  a  very  loud  voice  said,  "  Captain  B., 
you  have  taken  down  my  confession  perfectly  cor- 
rect ;  if  it  was  not  for  the  priests,  I  never  would  have 
been  guilty  of  murder,  nor  have  dragged  five  unfortu- 
nate persons  out  of  the  windmill  to  be  murdered." 
With  these  words  he  was  sent  into  eternity. 

I  am  far  from  intending  to  fix  the  charge  of  such 
tremendous  guilt  on  the  present  race  of  Romish 
priests  in  Ireland :  the  crime  was  that  of  individuals : 
its  root  is  the  system,  which,  holding  the  arrogant 
doctrine  of  supremacy  and  infallibility,  condemns  ti» 


COUNTY   WEXFORD.  51 

bodily  destruction  and  eternal  perdition  all  who 
oppose  those  claims,  or  dare  to  question  their  divine 
authority.  We  know  from  the  recent  revelations  of 
Dens'  theology,  the  adopted  text-book  of  the  Romish 
clergy  in  Ireland,  that  the  assumed  right  and  duty  to 
slaughter  heretics  is  waived  when  the  church  lacks 
temporal  power  to  carry  it  into  effect :  but  we  must 
remember  that  the  pious  inclination  and  the  power  to 
fulfil  it  naturally  promote  each  other.  Individually 
a  Romish  priest  may  be  as  humane  a  man,  as  averse 
from  bloodshed,  violence,  and  every  species  of 
cruelty,  as  any  man  can  be  :  he  may  shudder  at  the 
contemplation  of  such  scenes,  and  repel,  with  honest 
indignation,  the  clfarge  against  his  order,  because  he 
feels  within  himself  no  desire,  no  ability  in  factj  to 
cry  havoc,  and  to  carry  flame  and  sword  into  the 
bosom  of  a  peaceful,  confiding  neighborhood.  But  is 
not  the  priest  himself  the  slave  of  the  system  %  Can 
he  dispense  with  the  vows  that  bind  him  in  the  most 
helpless  subjection  to  the  governing  powers  of  his 
church  1  Dare  he  dispute  a  mandate  from  the  Vati- 
can, or  will  he  place  his  natural  repugnance  in  oppo- 
sition to  the  declared  interests  of  the  church  which  he 
is  so  deeply  sworn  to  uphold  I  He  cannot — he  knows 
that  i  a  man  comes  to  the  confessional,  and  reveals 
a  murder  committed  or  intended,  neither  his  sense  of 
justice  in  the  first  instance,  nor  the  strong  pleading 
of  nature  and  duty  in  the  latter,  can  prevail  to  loosen 
the  iron  band  that  holds  him  a  guilty,  perhaps  a  loath- 
ing a-  -.  eomplice  in  the  Crime.  Should  the  same  terri* 
ble  authority  be  brought  to  bear  upon  the  slaughter 
of  a  whole  community*  what  can  he  do  1  If  he 
believe  the  lie  that  he  is  bound  to  teach,  he  dares  not 


52  LETTER    II. 

for  his  soul's  safetye  exrcise  a  will,  or  cherish  even 
an  opinion  contrary  to  what  his  superiors  enjoin  :  if 
he  believe  it  not,  the  searing  process  of  a  continuous 
deception  sustained  towards  others,  will  so  indurate 
his  conscience  as  to  leave  hitn  destitute  of  moral  power, 
given  over  to  a  reprobate  mind,  and  a  ready  instru 
merit  for  any  evil.  I  have  made  out  a  case  for  the 
priests,  sufficient  to  inspire  any  Christian  bosom  with 
the  deepest  pity  for  their  share  in  the  galling  bond- 
age :*  but  it  cannot  be  forgotten  that  they  form  the 
links  of  that  chain  by  which,  connecting  as  it  does  the 
more  palpable  works  with  the  hidden  spring  that  acts 
upon  them,  all  the  mischief  is  perpetrated.  We  are 
bound  to  commiserate  the  priests;  we  are  bound  to 
seek  every  means  of  enlightening  them  ;  but  till  that 
be  effected,  we  are  also  imperatively  bound  to  disarm 
them. 

*  See  Appendix  B, 


LETTER    III. 

COUNTY    Y/SXFOED. 

July, 
Great  and  varied  have  been  the  enjoyments  of  one 
short  week,  the  first  of  my  sojourn  here,  and,  I  grieve 
to   say,  the  last.     For  a  long  track  lies  before  me, 
even  to  the  opposite  corner  of  Donegal,  and  Wexford 
with  all  its  enchanting  beauties,  its  thrilling  recollec- 
tions,   and    its  endearing   hospitality,    must  be    left. 
You  have   often  smilingly  asked  me  to  define  Irish 
hospitality— I   cannot.     It  would  be  like   painting  a 
sunbeam  on  canvas  for  one  who  never  felt  its  influ- 
ence.    In   an  Irish  house   you  are  emphatically   at 
home.     Its  inmates  do  not  put  themselves  out  of  their 
way,  Or  tease  you  with  attentions  and  arrangements 
that  make  you  feel  you  are  a  supernumerary,  how- 
ever Welcome.     Here  the  guest  is  at  once  installed  in 
all  the   immunities  of  a   settled  resident :   the  good 
folks  having  the  tact  to  impress  you  with  the  convic- 
tion that  you  make  no  other  difference  in  their  estab- 
lishment than  is  occasioned  by  the  increase  of  social 
enjoyment.     In  reality,  every  soul  is  plotting  for  your 
comfort  and  gratification  all  day  long  ;  but  they  do  it 
so   cunningly,   and   make    all   their   propositions  of 
agreeable  parties  with  such  an  easy  ofT-hand  air  of 
every-day  custom,  that  it   seems  merely  accidental 
5* 


54"  LETTER    III. 

that  everything  you  could  best  like  happens  to  be 
done  while  you  happen  to  be  with  them.  In  spite  of 
your  secret  misgivings,  they  make  you  believe  that 
your  departure  will  occasion  a  serious  blank,  where 
no  blank  existed  before  you  dropped  in,  a  perfect 
stranger  :  and  the  vagrant  propensity  must  be  strong 
indeed  that  could  enable  a  person,  without  a  painful 
struofjjle,  to  disen^ag-e  himself  from  all  the  ties  that 
have  imperceptibly  entangled  him  during  even  a  very 
short  sojourn  in  an  Irish  house.  This  is  all  the  defi- 
nition you  will  get  from  me  :  I  am  too  happy  to  be 
able  to  sit  down  and  analyse  my  enjoyments. 

I  have  just  been  feasting  on  that  most  cheering  of 
all  spectacles,  a  scriptural  school.  The  history  of  this 
may  furnish  a  specimen  of  what  might  be  done,  if 
Protestants  would  act  up  to  their  obligations,  in  regard 
to  the  children  of  their  poor  neighbors.  Some  years 
ago,  the  boy's  school  here  was  built  and  established 
on  Erasmus  Smith's  foundation  ;  and  Mr.  E.  anxious 
to  extend  the  blessing,  at  his  own  private  cost  added 
to  the  building  one  for  girls.  The  support  that  he 
might  naturally  have  looked  for  in  such  an  undertak- 
ing, was  not  given ;  and  with  the  exception  of  eight 
pounds  a  year  afforded  for  the  mistress's  salary  by 
the  London  Ladies  Hibernian  School  Society,  and 
a  small  allowance  paid  by  the  Dublin  Foundling 
Hospital,*  for  each  foundling  admitted,  the  whole 
burden  of  expense  falls  on  the  clergyman,  who  has  not 
for  years  received  a  shilling  of  tithe  from  those  whom 
he  is  thus  benefiting.    The  trifle  granted  to  the  mistress 

*  This  is  one  of  the  noble  Protestant  Institutions  lately  crushed 
by  the  liberal  system. 


COUNTY    WEXFORD.  55 

of  course,  will  scarcely  find  her  in  clothing,  and  she 
is  maintained  at  the  glebe.  A  very  large  proportion 
of  the  children  in  both  schools  are  Romanists.  They 
have  frequently  been  forbidden  to  attend,  and  for  a 
time  prevented  ;  but  so  fully  alive  are  the  poor  of  this 
country  to  the  value  of  education,  that  in  every  case 
they  have  returned  to  their  teachers.  Opposition  in 
some  form  is  invariably  offered  to  the  good  work:  but 
its  adversaries  cannot  prevail.  He  who  when  on 
earth  said,  "  Suffer  little  children  to  come  unto  me, 
and  forbid  them  not,"  has  power  to  enforce  his  own 
command.  If  we  be  willing,  he  will  open  a  door  for 
us  which  no  man  can  shut. 

But  what  a  humbling  spectacle  is  this  to  us!  We 
are  living  at  ease,  and  enjoying  a  thousand  superflui- 
ties, while  the  public  purse  amply  provides  for 
general  education,  and  wealthy  societies  unite  in  sup- 
plying spiritual  aid.  Here  is  a  clergyman,  the  incum- 
bent of  a  large  parish,  defrauded  by  an  unprincipled 
conspiracy  of  the  income  assigned  to  him  by  the  laws 
of  the  land  ;  himself  the  father  of  a  numerous  family, 
thrown  entirely  on  his  private  resources  for  their 
support  and  education  ;  and  maintaining  that  ungrudg- 
ing hospitality  which  Scripture  and  his  own  benevo- 
lent mind  alike  direct  him  to  use :  yet  voluntarily 
adding  to  all  other  burdens  the  heavy  expenses  of  a 
school,  established  almost  exclusively  for  the  advan- 
tage of  children  whose  parents  are  taught  to  regard 
him  with  animosity,  to  harass,  annoy,  and  if  they  may, 
to  injure  him.  Such  an  instance  of  patient  conti- 
nuance in  well  doing,  in  returning  good  for  evil,  and 
blessing,  yea  multiplying  blessings  where  the  "  curse 
causeless"  perpetually  assails  him,  speaks  eloquently. 


56  LETTEK    in. 

Would  that  it  might  speak  effectively,  and  bring  for- 
ward some  who  can  not  only  commend  his  work  but 
substantially  aid  in  it.  Eight  pounds  a  year  towards 
such  an  outlay,  in  such  a  place,  and  for  such  a  purpose, 
is  all  that  England  can  give,  and  that  too  by  the  hand 
of  private  beneficence.  If  Mr;  E.  would  apply  to  the 
Board,  admit  the  priest,  banish  the  Bible,  lay  the 
"  Extracts"  on  a  shelf,  and  put  into  the  children's 
hands  the  legends,  the  catechisms,  the  inflammatory 
denunciations  of  Rome,  he  might  command  any  mea- 
sure of  government  patronage  :  but  no,  Mr.  E.  is  a 
Protestant  clergyman,  he  desires  to  feed  the  poor 
lambs  of  his  flock  with  the  sincere  milk  of  the  word  ; 
and  so  he  may,  provided  he  does  it  at  his  own  cost, 
and  that  of  his  own  family. 

The  spectacle  was  indeed  most  interesting,  of  the 
poor  children  assembled  in  their  respective  rooms, 
and  diligently  engaged  in  learning  from  anxious 
teachers.  The  situation  of  the  schoolhouse  is  quite 
a  contrast  to  the  flaunting  publicity  of  those  under 
the  "  Board."  The  latter  are  sure  to  stare  you  in  the 
face  by  the  road-side,  in  naked  newness  of  stone  and 
mortar,  man's  work  all.  This  is  shaded  by  trees, 
which  also  overshadow  the  approach  to  the  church, 
the  hallowed  fold  of  a  small  and  scattered  flock 
standing  in  the  rustic  grave-yard,  with  a  fringe  of 
trees,  and  an  occasional  yew  or  hawthorn  marking 
some  endeared  resting-place  of  mortality.  Roses  and 
other  sweet  climbers  embower  the  modest  school- 
house  ;  and  for  a  back-ground  the  noble  mountains 
rise  in  dark  magnificence*  A  little  garden  parts  it 
from  the  narrow,  rugged  road,  which  separates  both  it 
and  the  church  from  the  glebe.     There  is  something 


COTJNTY    WEXFORD.  57 

very  touching  in  the  retired  loneliness  of  the  place  ; 
surrounded,  as  it  is  well  known  to  be,  by  a  most 
formidably  hostile  neighborhood  ;  banded  against 
tithes,  and  tainted  by  an  hereditary  enmity  that  only 
the  healing  stream  of  gospel  love  can  ever  wash 
away.  Oh,  what  a  field  is  this  fair,  ruined  land ! 
White  to  the  harvest,  but  where  are  the  laborers  to 
gather  it  in  1  Yvre  are  mocked,  befooled  by  projects 
of  amelioration  ;  one  man  proposing  to  regenerate 
Ireland  by  building  workhouses — another  by  establisj^ 
ing  temperance  societies-^  third  by  giving  up  all 
political  and  local  authority  to  the  demagogues  who 
clamor'lfor  it — and  carrying  on  the  spiritual  work 
without  visible  means.  All  are  alike  futile.  The  first 
indispensable  step  is,  indeed,  to  relieve  the  wretched 
poor  from  their  intolerable  destitution  :  therefore 
build  workhouses.  The  evils  of  wide-spread  intem- 
perance must  be  checked ;  therefore  declare  war 
against  the  whisky-shops ;  but  unless  you  unloose 
the  fetters  of  bigotry  by  means  of  religious  instruc- 
tion, your  very  workhouses  will  become  barracks  for 
a  rebel  army,  and  all  the  money  saved,  all  the  energy 
redeemed  from  the  debasing-  habits  of  intoxication, 
will  be  devoted  to  the  manufacture  and  the  application 
of  pikes.  As  to  the  political  remedy — the  Justice-to- 
ireland  municipal  plan — it  may  very  well  be  adopted 
if  the  resolution  is  come  to  of  colonizing  some  dis- 
tant settlement  with  the  exiled  Protestants  of  Ireland  ; 
and  making  over  the  other  portion  of  her  inhabitants 
to  the  powers  of  darkness  for  ever. 

It  is  in  contemplating  the  scene  presented  within 
the  walls  of  a  scriptural  school,  that  the  mind,  oppress- 
ed and  grieved,  by  what  passes  without,  can  recover 


58  LETER    III. 

its  elasticity,  and  rejoice  in  the  dawnings  of  a  better 
hope.  Here,  as  I  have  before  remarked,  is  the  con- 
necting- link  forged  that  alone  on  a  large  scale  will 
bring  into  harmonious  junction  the  divided  portions 
of  society.  Nor  is  this  the  only^  nor  the  most 
essential  point  to  be  gained  ;  for  the  children  of 
different  persuasions,  conning  from  the  page  of  the 
same  volume  the  same  inspired  lessons  of  love  to 
God  and  to  each  other,  will  not,  even  humanly  speak- 
ing, grow  up  in  that  state  of  estrangement  naturally 
ripening  into  enmity,  that  must  result  from  the  one 
being-  taught  to  shun  and  to  dread  what  to  the  other 
is  a  supreme  rule  of  faith  and  of  practice.  This  is  so 
indisputable  that  no  one  attempts  to  deny  it — the 
objection  started  is  that  the  spiritual  guides  of  one 
portion  of  the  community,  dreading  such  a  result^  will 
not  permit  it.  But  here  I  have  ocular  demonstration 
that  with  or  without  such  permission  the  children  will 
avail  themselves  of  the  advantage  offered,  even  in  the 
most  hostile  part  of  the  country.  It  is  only  when  the 
temptation  is  held  out  to  them  of  receiving  instruction 
in  this  world's  lore^  not  at  the  expense  of  abandoning, 
but  with  every  facility  for  strengthening  the  bonds  of 
spiritual  error,  and  the  virulence  of  party  animosity, 
that  they  are  drawn  off  from  those  green  pastures,  to 
a  barren  and  envenomed  track. 

The  children  whom  I  have  here  seen  have  not,  in 
general,  the  lively,  intelligent  look  that  usually  cha- 
racterizes the  Irish  poor.  Indeed,  a  glance  into  the 
wretched  hovels  that  sprinkle  the  road-side  will  not 
only  account  for  the  heavy  aspect  of  those  who  bur- 
row within  their  dark  recesses,  but  must  render  it  a 
matter  of  surprise  that  the  faculties  should  be  capable 


COUNTY    WEXFORD.  59 

of  such  development  as  I  have  witnessed,  under  the 
hand  of  their  kind  teachers.  Some  admirable  answer- 
ing in  the  Scripture  classes,  with  the  progress  made 
by  others  towards  it,  and  the  orderly,  clean,  content- 
ed appearance  of  the  little  learners,  all  gave  promise, 
that  if  the  benevolent  efforts  of  my  kind  friend  were 
seconded  as  they  ought  to  be,  and  his  hands  strength- 
ened by  the  help  which  it  is  disgraceful  to  withhold, 
the  same  means,  applied  co-extensively  with  the 
wants  of  the  population,  would  ensure  an  abundant, 
an  unspeakably  precious  harvest.  On  Sunday  the 
school  was  attended  by  some  pupils  of  more  advanced 
age,  and  among  them  I  found  a  knowledge  of  Scrip- 
ture, an  evident  delight  in  its  study,  truly  heart- 
cheering.  One  of  the  best  answerers  in  the  Bible  class 
that  I  took,  was  a  Romanist ;  and  I  am  assured  it  is 
generally  the  case  here.  From  this  we  passed  to  the 
church,  which,  being  under  repair,  presented  a 
wretched  and  desolate  aspect,  not  properly  belonging 
to  it ;  but  the  pastor  knows  his  duty  too  well  to 
allow  the  presence  of  bricks  and  mortar,  beams  and 
scaffolding,  to  interrupt  the  regular  course  of  paro- 
chial ministrations. 

The  congregation  was  numerous,  adapted  to  the 
size  of  the  edifice,  which  is  not  large.  This  was  my 
first  Sabbath  in  Ireland,  for  thirteen  years  ;  and  when 
I  reflected  through  what  a  fiery  ordeal  her  persecuted 
Church  had  recently  passed,  and  how  fiercely  it  is 
still  assailed  by  those  whose  incessant  cry  is,  "  Down 
with  it !  Down  with  it !"  mine  eye  affected  my  heart 
in  no  small  degree.  The  clergyman  here  has  been 
exempt  from  the  cruel  privations  undergone  by  many 
of  his  brethren,  not  from  the  prevalence  of  a  better 


60  LETTER    III. 

spirit  among  the  people,  for  a  worse  can  nowhere  be 
found,  but  by  the  possession  of  private  means  which 
rendered  him  independent  of  his  clerical  income  for 
the  comforts  of  life.  I  speak  of  external  comforts , 
no  one  has  more  largely  participated  in  the  other 
ingredients  of  the  general  cup.  All  that  factious 
malignity  and  unprovoked  enmity  could  do,  to  dis- 
tress, to  insult,  and,  if  they  could,  to  intimidate,  has 
been  put  in  force  :  insomuch  that  at  one  time  it  wag 
a  matter  of  extreme  personal  danger  to  cross  from 
the  glebe-house  to  the  church,  for  the  purpose  of  the 
accustomed  ministrations  ;  but  my  friend  was  not  to 
be  daunted  in  the  discharge  of  his  sacred  duties,  and 
he  can  thankfully  repeat,  "  By  the  help  of  my  God,  I 
continue  to  this  day." 

The  curate  of  the  parish  preached  a  most  splendid 
sermon,  suited  to  the  occasion,  which  was  the  read- 
ing of  the  queen's  proclamation :  for  it  was  on  this 
spot,  so  replete  with  overpowering  recollections  and 
associations,  that  I  first  received  the  official  call  to 
allegiance  on  the  part  of  my  youthful  sovereign.  Oh, 
how  earnestly  did  I  pray,  within  the  bounds  of  that 
little  fold,  surrounded  by  and  exposed  to  the  grievous 
wolf  of  Rome,  that  God  would  so  dispose  and  turn 
the  heart  of  the  royal  maiden,  as  to  make  her  a  nurs- 
ing mother  to  the  afflicted  Church  of  Ireland  !  This 
was  the  second  proclamation  of  the  kind  that  had  met 
me  in  this  country  :  I  was  residing  in  it  when  good 
old  George  the  Third  exchanged  his  earthly  for  a 
heavenly  crown.  Then  the  nation  lay  basking  in 
honor  and  security ;  we  enjoyed  the  ripened  fruits 
of  a  long  reign  of  Christian  truth  and  uprightness ; 
and  the  blessings  of  a  grateful  people  encircled  the 


COUNTY    WEXFORD.  61 

head  of  the  monarch  who  had  declared  he  would 
sooner  lay  that  head  upon  the  block  than  violate  his 
solemn  engagements  to  uphold  the  British  constitu- 
tion in  the  integrity  of  its  Protestant  character. 
Dark,  sad,  heart-rending  were  the  reverses  over 
which  my  mind  rapidly  glanced,  since  the  Lord  took 
from  us  "  the  chariot  of  Israel  and  the  horsemen 
thereof  5"  and  never  shall  I  forget  the  suitableness  of 
the  discourse  addressed  to  us  by  the  pious  and  highly- 
gifted  young  minister,  who,  in  opening  the  nature  of 
that  sin  which  caused  a  terrible  judgment  to  swallow 
up  and  consume  the  rebellious  murmurers  against  the 
delegated  authority  of  Moses  and  Aaron,  impressed 
on  us  a  lesson  of  loyal  submission  to  our  queen,  of 
devoted  attachment  to  our  Church,  for  which  I  hope 
often  topless  the  God  who  sent  that  message  by  the 
mouth  of  his  servant. 

Hereto  do  these  devoted  men  both  labor  and  suf- 
fer affliction.  The  Church  that  has  been  shorn  of 
her  bishopries,  defrauded  of  her  dues,  and  in  every 
possible  way  discouraged,  curtailed  and  oppressed  by 
legislative  enactments,  is  pre-eminently  the  Church 
that  most  rigidly  enforces  on  every  one  of  her  mem- 
bers, not  the  mere  letter  alone,  but  the  pure  pervad- 
ing spirit  of  obedience  to  rulers,  and  respect  for  the 
laws.  1  could  not  look  around  on  the  disfiguring 
appendages  that  made  the  place  appear  so  forlorn7 
without  deriving  some  satisfaction  from  the  thought 
that  the  Church  was  so  defaced  in  order  to  repair  the 
fabric  and  enlarge  its  accommodations.  Thus  may 
it  prove  with  the  Establishment  of  which  it  forms  a 
part !  So  long  as  her  teachers  remain  at  their  posts, 
and  her  congregations  assemble  to  worship  the  Lord 
6 


62  LETTER    III. 

in  the  beauty  of  holiness,  undeterred  by  the  forbid- 
ding aspect  of  the  times,  we  need  not  fear  :  dilapi- 
dated, she  will  yet  attain  to  greater  perfection  and 
beauty  ;  consumed,  she  will  arise  with  phoenix  life 
and  lustre  from  her  ashes.     So  be  it ! 

To  the  hospitable  glebe  of  Templeshanbo  I  bade  a 
reluctant  farewell,  and  proceeded  to  the  town  of 
Enniscorthy,  of  which  I  had  before  only  a  transient 
view.  This  spot,  so  fearfully  memorable  in  the  page 
of  modern  history,  was  attacked  by  the  rebels,  but  so 
gallantly  defended  by  the  garrison,  that  they  were 
beaten  off  after  a  dreadful  conflict  carried  on  in  every 
street.  The  royalists  were,  however,  compelled  to 
retreat  afterwards,  by  the  disaffected  inhabitants 
igniting  their  own  dwellings,  and  firing  on  them  from 
amid  the  flames.  When  this  important  post  "was  car- 
ried, the  rebels,  to  the  number  of  ten  thousand  men, 
encamped  on  Vinegar  Hill.  They  were  commanded 
by  a  priest,  as  was  usual ;  and  from  ten  to  twenty  of 
their  clergy  daily  said  mass  among  them,  exhorting 
them  to  more  strenuous  efforts  for  the  extirpation  of 
heresy. 

Vinegar  Hill  is  in  fact  a  mountain,  which  rises 
above  the  town  with  a  very  gradual  slope,  until  you 
approach  the  summit,  when  it  becomes  so  abrupt  as 
to  require  considerable  effort  in  ascending.  The 
lower  part  is  covered  with  a  short  coarse  grass,  hea- 
ther, and  such  vegetation  as  generally  bespeaks  a 
harsh,  dry  soil :  the  crest,  however,  is  remarkable, 
being  a  perfect  ridge  of  rock,  diversified  only  with  a 
variety  of  mosses,  that,  springing  up  in  irregular 
crossed  lines,  give  it  the  appearance  of  being  paved. 
The  footing  is  slippery  and  uncomfortable  j  but  the 


COUNTY    WEXFORD.  63 

thrilling  interest  attached  to  the  scene,  and  the  strik- 
ing- view  stretching  below,  would  have  riveted  me 
there  while  daylight  lasted.  To  the  right  of  this 
long  ridge,  which,  facing  the  town,  afforded  a  cover 
for  the  rebel  battery,  the  hill  rises  to  a  conical  form, 
the  rocks  and  moss  giving  place  to  a  ranker  species 
of  vegetation  than  elsewhere.  The  heart  sickens 
while  imagination  traces  the  origin  of  this  fertility, 
for  here  stands  the  shell  of  the  old  windmill,  a  strong 
brick  building,  used  as  a  prison  for  the  victims  cap- 
tured in  the  town,  who  were  daily  dragged  forth,  as 
vengeance,  policy,  or  caprice  directed,  and  within  a 
few  yards  of  the  windmill  piked  or  shot.  Their 
offence  was  Protestantism.  Here,  in  the  space  of 
three  weeks,  upwards  of  five  hundred  individuals — ■ 
men  of  property,  clergymen,  merchants,  farmers, 
laborers,  and  mechanics — were  deliberately  massa- 
cred in  cold  blood,  and  the  greater  number  of  their 
mangled  remains  buried  where  1  then  stood  to  trace 
the  lines  of  march  by  which  General  Lake's  army- 
advanced  on  the  rebel  camp,  and  in  a  desperate  bat- 
tle routed  them.  With  that  action  terminated  the 
rebellion  of  1798. 

Not  a  man,  scarcely,  of  the  wretched  people  would 
have  escaped  ;  but  General  Needham,  either  from  a 
real  oversight,  mishap,  or,  as  some  think,  from  a 
desire  to  spa  :e  the  farther  effusion  of  blood  in  this 
unnatural  warfare,  omitted  to  rendezvous  by  the  path 
assigned  to  him  in  sufficient  time  to  intercept  the 
fugitives,  who  thus  escaped  by  that  unoccupied  road. 
No  one,  at  all  accustomed  to  take  an  interest  in 
military  operations,  could  look  out  from  the  crown  of 
Vinegar   Hill,  and  fail  to  comprehend  the  different 


84  LETTER    IH. 

movements,  as  described  by  my  companions.  I  was 
well  versed  in  the  details,  from  a  long  and  intimate 
acquaintance  with  Musgrave's  History,  from  which 
I  have  drawn  information  that  I  would  not  have  sought 
on  the  spot.  For,  while  opening  these  painful  wounds, 
never  yet  properly  healed,  in  the  hope  of  attracting 
the  notice  of  some  who,  not  being  aware  of  the  par 
tient's  actual  state,  will  not  look  for  or  accept  an  ade- 
quate remedy,  I  am  most  careful  not  to  rekindle  in 
the  bosoms  of  those  around  me  feelings  and  resent* 
ments  that  must,  in  this  locality,  partake  too  much  of 
individual  wrong  to  be  safely  awakened.*  If  I  did 
not  believe  that  rebellion  was  at  this  moment  spread- 
ing <and  ripening  for  a  more  terrible  outbreak  than  be- 
fore — if  I  did  not  know  that  past  experience  alone 
can  yield  a  lesson  for  the  probable  future,T=— I  would 
never  stain  my  paper  with  a  recurrence  to  that  terri- 
ble lesson  so  deeply  imprinted,  so  soon  obliterated 
from  the  minds  of  our  rulers. 

Nearly  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  stands  the  glebe,  re- 
built from  its  ruins.  On  the  occasion  referred  to  it 
was  burnt,  and  the  Rev.  Mr.  Burrowes,  the  incum- 
bent, barbarously  murdered.  It  has  now  come  into 
the  possession  of  one  whose  heart's  desire  it  is  to 
pour  the  oil  and  wine  of  Christian  love  into  the  gashes 
of  his  poor  country.  With  him  I  visited  the  schools 
under  his  immediate  superintendence  ;  and  a  more  re- 
freshing cordial  could  not  have  been  afforded  to  the 
minds,  so  painfully  excited  by  contemplating  the  me- 
morials of  civil  war — or  rather  of  religfious  war,  for  so 
in  the  strictest  sense  it  was.  Just  where  the  first  swell 
of  the  ground  warns  you  that  you  are  upon  the  ascent 

to  Vinegar  Hill,  stands  a  most  substantial  new  build 
•  See.  Appendix  C. 


COUNTY   WEXFORD.  6& 

ing,  shaded  off  from  the  road,  and  surrounded  with  a 
garden.  This  comprises  two  school-rooms,  large, 
airy,  and  pleasant  in  no  ordinary  degree :  such  an 
array  of  sprightly,  shrewd,  intellectual-looking  child- 
ren, I  had  not  seen,  I  know  not  for  how  long.  The 
master  and  the  mistress  were  two  of  the  most  prepos- 
sessing persons  imaginable,  and  not  a  countenance  was 
there  among  their  young  charges  that  did  not  bespeak 
some  promise  of  a  return  for  their  diligent  labor. 
The  best  of  the  girls  were  absent  just  then  j  though 
from  the  answering  of  those  who  were,  on  the  spur 
of  the  moment,  called  up^  I  readily  conceived  what 
the  elite  of  the  little  community  could  do.  But  the 
boys ! — I  speak  advisedly,  and  apart  from  all  excited 
feeling,  when  I  say  that  no  class  formed  of  picked  in- 
dividuals from  any  number  of  scriptural  schools  h 
England  could  have  shamed  or  surpassed  those  boys. 
I  was  soon  obliged  to  give  up  altogether  the  task  Of 
questioning  ;  for,  to  say  truth,  I  could  not  speak  for 
weeping  j  but  they  were  tears  of  most  unmingled 
gladness.  I  was  allowed  to  choose  the  subject,  and 
to  direct  the  line  of  examination ;  but  never  should 
I  have  dreamed  of  going  into  such  depths  of  spiritual 
knowledge  with  the  half-clad,  volatile-looking  crea- 
tures before  me,  as  they  proved  themselves  capable 
of  exploring.  The  passage  selected  was  in  the  Pen- 
tateuch ;  its  chief  matter,  the  types:  and  light,  suc- 
cessive flashes  of  light,  did  the  poor  boys  throw,  by 
their  answers,  on  texts  that  had  always  been  obscure 
to  me.  They  had  studied  God's  Word  j  and  the  hap- 
py expression  beaming  on  their  countenances,  soften- 
ed into  seriousness  as  they  stood  round  the  desk,  be- 
spoke the  delight  they  took  in  the  exercise.  One 
6* 


66  LETTER   III. 

little  child,  actually  in  petticoats,  soon  made  his  way 
from  the  bottom  to  the  top  of  the  line  by  his  extraor- 
dinary answering;  and  if  anything  were  wanted  to 
complete  the  picture,  it  was  supplied  by  the  smiles  of 
gratulation  with  which  the  superseded  lads  greeted 
their  little  comrade  as  he  gained  the  highest  place. 
I  afterwards  asked  the  dear  pastor,  who  stood  quietly 
by,  rejoicing  in  heart  over  his  interesting  young  flock, 
how  he  had  brought  them  to  such  a  pitch  of  attain- 
ment in  biblical  knowledge.  He  replied  that  his  plan, 
which  seemed  to  succeed  remarkably  well,  was  to 
make  the  study  of  the  Scriptures  a  reward  for  good 
conduct.  Every  child  who  could  produce  a  testimony 
of  diligence  and  obedience  through  the  week,  was 
allowed  to  pass  some  hours  on  the  Saturday  in  the 
way  I  had  seen:  such  as  failed  of  giving  satisfaction, 
by  gross  misconduct,  were  sent  away  at  that  time. 
He  assured  me  he  had  seen  little  Romanists  in  ago- 
nies of  weeping  because  they  had  thus  forfeited  the 
privilege.  I  never  heard  of  this  plan  before  :  in  theo- 
ry, I  know  not  that  it  would  please  me :  but  after 
what  I  witnessed  of  its  effects,  I  could  not  doubt. 
I  should  have  told  you,  in  extenuation  of  my  weak- 
ness, that  from  the  large  open  window  I  had  a  full 
view  of  the  frowning  ridge  of  Vinegar  Hill ;  and  that 
the  children  who  surrounded  me,  closely  linked  in 
the  holiest,  sweetest,  most  enduring  bonds  of  brother- 
ly love,  were  nearly  all  of  them  the  children,  per- 
haps not  beyond  the  second  generation,  of  actors 
or  sufferers  in  that  fearful  scene  of  bloodshed.  I 
know  not,  my  dear  friend,  if  ever  the  precious  word 
of  salvation  appeared  so  trebly  precious  in  my  sight 
as  when  I  saw  it  in  the  hands  of  those  children  at  the 
foot  of  Vinegar  Hill. 


COTTNTr   WKXFORD.  67 

An  excursion  of  many  miles  was  before  us,  and  the 
bright  noontide  hour  was  past:  yet  I  could  scarcely 
tear  myself  from  the  school.  What  marvel  if  the 
enemy  puts  in  practice  every  possible  device  to  hin- 
der a  work  so  subversive  of  his  power,  whether  the 
deadly  superstitions  of  popery,  the  vain  arrogance  of 
natural  reason,  or  the  debasing  bonds  of  total  igno- 
rance, be  the  prop  of  his  throne.  Of  course,  the 
locality,  with  its  dark  and  terrible  associations,  caused 
this  lovely  picture  to  stand  out  in  most  brilliant  re- 
lief; arrayed  as  it  was  in  the  light  of  heaven,  it  shone 
more  divinely  fair  from  its  proximity  to  the  deepest 
shadows  of  hell :  but  strip  it  of  all  these  advantageous 
contrasts,  and  place  it  where  you  would,  its  effect 
must  be  glorious.  Placed  where  it  was,  it  embodied 
before  my  eye  what  my  heart  had  long  believed,  and 
my  spirit  had  yearned  to  realize.  My  lip  never 
breathed  a  blessing  more  fervent  than  that  which  I 
left  with  the  children  of  Enniscorthy. 

Seated  in  an  open  landau,  for  my  partiality  to  the 
Irish  car  is  by  no  means  a  general  sentiment  here, 
we  now  commenced  a  trip,  the  extent  of  gratification 
prepared  for  me  being,  as  usual,  concealed  under  the 
appearance  of  an  every  day  affair.  "  Mr.  S.  is  going 
to  visit  some  endeared  members  of  his  former  flock ; 
we  thought  you  would  like  to  see  a  little  of  the  coun- 
try." And  I  did  see  a  little,  and  a  good  deal,  of  the 
most  beautiful  country  on  earth's  surface.  We  first 
drove  along  the  banks  of  the  Slaney,  a  little  playful 
stream,  rippling  on  through  green  meadows,  and  giv- 
ing no  promise  of  the  mighty  swell  that  it  very  soon 
takes  into  a  noble  river.  After  passing  through 
scenery  that  continually  extorted  exclamations  of  de- 


68  LETTER    III. 

light  from  us  all,  particularly  while  driving  under  a 
natural  arch  of  luxuriant  trees,  intermingling  high 
above  a  winding  road,  affording  at  every  opening 
some  landscape  view  of  exquisite  richness,  we  again 
met  the  Slaney  in  the  form  of  a  magnificent  river 
considerably  wider  than  the  Thames  at  Westminster: 
and  her  we  also  met  a  party  deeply  engaged  in  the 
plot  of  the  day.  Twin  sisters,  sweet  and  simple,  and 
blooming,  too,  as  ever  twin  rosebuds,  were  on  one 
stalk ;  with  two  manly  youths  their  brothers,  attired 
in  the  loose  light  habit  of  sailors,  with  broad  straw 
hats  5  and  a  very  handsome  capacious  boat,  their  own 
property,  waiting  our  arrival.  I  then  found  that  we 
were  to  row  to  the  town  of  Wexford  ;  and  to  partake 
in  the  hospitality  of  our  young  friends  not  far  distant 
from  it. 

We  entered  the  boat  and  pushed  off  to  the  middle 
stream.  Nothing  could  surpass  the  beauty  of  the 
day ;  the  river  rolled  along  in  quiet  majesty,  often 
widening  to  a  lake,  and  diversified  with  such  scenery 
on  its  rising  banks,  such  a  succession  of  wooded  hills, 
noble  mansions,  and  picturesque  points  of  land,  that 
the  eye  could  never  tire  of  gazing  on  them.  At  length 
we  approached  a  resting  place,  and  moored  our  boat 
under  the  most  imposing  scene  I  had  yet  beheld, 
while  our  kind  rowers  sought  some  refreshment. 
The  place  is  called  Carrig^ferry  ;  but  now  a  wooden 
bridge  is  thrown  across  this  narrowing  part  of  the 
liver.  Directly  from  the  shore  where  we  lay  rose  a 
very  steep  rock,  decked  with  abundance  of  wild 
flowers,  yet  palpably  a  rock,  as  the  word  Carrig  im- 
ports. Beyond  the  bridge,  but  still  quite  close  to  it, 
and  at  the  same  end,  another  portion  of  the  rock  forms 


COUNTY    WEXFORD.  69 

a  regular  conical  hill,  abruptly  from  which  ascends 
the  most  remarkable  relic  of  ancient  strength  and 
stability  that  I  have  yet  met  with.  It  is  a  fortress 
built  in  1169  by  Robert  Fitzstephen,  who  erected  a 
line  of  these  mighty  towers  to  defend  the  ground  as 
he  proceeded  in  the  arduous  task  £>f  conquest.  This 
being  a  very  important  point  of  the  Slaney,  he  seems 
to  have  fortified  it  accordingly  ;  and  it  is  astonishing 
with  what  an  aspect  of  frowning  defiance  the  stately 
ruin  overlooks  the  stream,  at  the  distance  of  nearly 
seven  centuries  from  its  erection.  All  that  remains 
of  this  famous  fortress  exhibits  a  square  tower,  of 
which  the  sharp  though  broken  outline,  the  lofty, 
compact,  and  enduring  character,  as  it  shoots  up 
from  its  rocky  base,  conveys  the  idea  of  something 
so  independent,  so  warlike,  so  full  of  pride  and 
menace,  that  visions  of  feudal  days  occupied  my. 
fancy  as  long  as  I  could  trace  the  varying  profiles  it 
presented  while  we  glided  away.  Castle  Carrig  is  a 
rare  gem  of  antiquity,  and  remarkable,  too,  as  the 
first  military  edifice  built  by  the  invaders. 

On  we  rowed,  and  the  Slaney  expanded  into  a  sea; 
throwing  off  an  arm  here,  scooping  out  a  bay  there, 
and  increasing  in  beauty  at  every  advance.  At  length 
we  left  a  very  extensive  curve  of  shore  to  the  left, 
and  made  for  an  object  bearing  to  our  right.  It  was 
Wexford  bridge — not  the  very  bridge  of  1798 — that 
was  destroyed  ;  but  another  built  on  the  same  spot, 
arid  of  similar  aspect.  We  were  yet  at  a  considera- 
ble distance,  when,  rowing  through  shoals  of  seaweed, 
we  made  the  interesting  discovery  that  the  water  be- 
neath us  was  about  one  foot  in  depth ;  and  the  sensa- 
tion of  scratching  our  way  upon    obbles,  then  making 


70  LETTER  III. 

a  dead  stop,  added  the  information  that  we  were 
aground  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  many  hundred 
yards  from  either  shore.  Much  merriment  was  ex- 
cited by  our  situation,  and  many  a  vigorous  effort 
was  made  before  the  boat  could  be  worked  into  a 
floating  depth.  We  then  ascertained  that  too  much 
time  had  been  lost  to  allow  of  our  making  the  bridge  ; 
and  our  ultimate  destination  being  on  the  left  bank  ot 
the  river,  we  put  about  to  gain  it.  Nor  did  I  regret 
the  disappointment :  the  horrifying  recollections  that 
would  have  prevailed  in  my  mind  over  every  other 
consideration  had  we  neared  the  place,  were  too  much 
at  variance  with  the  train  of  thought  lately  called  up 
I  had  no  desire  to  approach  Wexford  ;  and  had  I 
known  the  delight  in  store  for  me  at  Artramont,  I 
should  have  grudged  every  moment's  detention 
from  it. 

This  handsome  mansion  stands  on  elevated  ground, 
the  lower  part  of  the  demesne  being  washed  by  the 
Slaney,  which  after  sweeping  round  Lord  Arran's 
wooded  lands,  makes  here  a  capricious,  irregular  ex- 
cursion along  the  eastern  line  of  its  boundary,  and 
then  returns  to  narrow  into  a  channel  over  which  the 
bridge  of  Wexford  stretches.  Beyond,  it  forms  a 
noble  bay  and  harbor.  The  view  across  this  sheet 
of  water,  terminated  by  the  town  of  Wexford  at  a 
softening  distance,  is  most  beautiful.  Very  near  the 
landing-place  stands  another  specimen  of  Henry's 
fortresses,  from  whence,  for  the  trouble  of  climbing 
some  ruined  stairs  in  the  tower,  I  enjoyed  a  nice  pros 
pect  down  the  river;  but  of  the  grounds  more  imme 
diately  surrounding  the  house  I  am  at  a  loss  to  convey 
an  adequate  idea.     Picture  to  yourself  a  very  largr 


COUNTY  WEXFORD.  71 

ext<mt  of  the  finest  land  imaginable,  laid  out  in  groves 
and  gardens,  of  which  the  whole  plan  and  the  growth, 
of  vegetation  combine  to  impress  you  with  the  notion 
that  man's  puny  hand  had  no  part  in  the  work.     The 
trees  are  gigantic  :  they  looked  down  with  a  patron- 
izing air  upon  our  pigmy  forms,  and  waved  in  stately 
pride  at  an  immense  height  above  us.     The  trunks, 
shooting  up  to  an  unusual  elevation,  impart  this  cha- 
racter ;  while,  in  the  open  spaces,  choice  specimens 
of  flowering  shrubs,  in  the  very  wantonness  of  luxu- 
riant profusion,  seem  to  have  taken  forcible  posses- 
sion of  the  soil,  and  to  be  resolved  on  engrossing  it. 
Roses  of  every  variety,  intermingled  with  jessamine, 
woodbine,   clematis,   and  all  the  family  of  climbers, 
overtop  the  high  walls  ;  not  trimmed,  and  stretched, 
as  it  were,  on  the  rack,  with  a  modicum  of  leaves 
sprinkling  the  formal,  straggling  twigs,  but  clustering 
and   intermingling,    and  waving  in   such  masses  of  j 
flower  and  foliage  as  I  suppose  never  met  the  eye  of 
our  English  villa  denizens.     Beneath  these,  and  many 
noble  standard  shrubs,  the  earth  was   heaped  with 
every  variety  of  glowing  tint,  and  the   atmosphere 
around  impregnated  with  odors.     To   complete  the 
charm,  there  was  an  intricacy  in  the  grounds  that  re- 
quired some  knowledge  of  the  place  to  arrive  at  any 
given  point :  so  you  wandered  through  grove,  garden, 
shrubbery — now  finding  yourself  completely  enclosed 
among  dark  pines  and  venerable  oaks,  now  suddenly 
emerging  into  light,  with  a  noble  conservatory  before 
you,   where  the   magnolia   displayed    its   enormous 
pearls,  the  lime  its  lively  gold,  and  the  orange  its 
deep  rich  blush,  beneath  a  dome  of  glass — the  treasury 
of  a  thousand  costly  exotics.     To  one  so  devotedly 


72  LETTEK   1H, 

fond  of  flowers  and  trees,  it  was  almost  an  intoxicat- 
ing delight  to  wander  through  these  grounds,  while 
the  total  absence  of  everything  that  could  tend  to  re- 
mind I  was  a  stranger,  the  warmly,  artlessly  affection- 
ate attentions  of  those  who  desired  no  greater  happiness 
than  to  minister  to  the  enjoyment  of  an  humble 
guest,  my  only  claim  on  them  an  ardent  love  of  their 
native  isle — all  rendered  k  a  season  of  such  sunshine 
as  does  not  often  burst  upon  my  path. 

Here,  in  this  abode  of  love,  peace,  and  piety,  I  could 
have  learned  a  terrible  story  of  those  times  so  often 
alluded  to  :  for  the  house  was  visited  and  almost 
wrecked  j  its  master  a  prisoner,  and  his  agonized 
partner  a  spectator  of  the  scene  on  Wexford  Bridge. 
But  no  word  escaped  the  placid  survivor  in  reference 
to  the  past ;  and  the  paramount  object  of  all  the  party 
was  evidently  the  extension  of  temporal  and  spiritual 
good  throughout  the  land*  They  spoke  with  joy  of 
the  progress  made  in  their  schools,  and  of  the  efforts 
of  neighboring  gentry  to  ameliorate  the  condition  of 
their  poor  countrymen.  My  evening  trip  to  the 
boundaries  of  the  place  was  most  interesting  ;  it  actu- 
ally outrivalled  the  flowers,  and  the  stately  groves 
that  surrounded  them. 

The  spot  to  which,  with  my  twin  companions  and 
my  friend  Robert,  I  wandered,  was  a  very  ancient 
fragment  of  what  had  been  a  church,  I  should  think 
even  of  an  earlier  date  than  Strongbow's  castles,  a 
vestige  of  these  early  temples,  where  pure  worship 
was  offered,  before  the  iniquitous  project  for  subduing 
Ireland  to  the  Romish  See  had  been  conceived — at 
least  before  the  arms  of  Henry  carried  it  into  effect. 
To  the  venerable  rum  the  poor  people  attach  so  muck 
sanctity  that  to  this  day  they  covet  a  grave  beneath 


COUNTY    WEXFORD.  73 

its  shadow:  and  very  numerous  were  the  mounds, 
with  their  grey  headstones,  or  plain  wooden  crucifixes, 
alike  almost  hidden  beneath  the  luxuriance  of  the 
grass  and  wild  flowers.  The  stem  of  a  very  aged 
tree  was  near,  with  a  few  boughs  still  shooting  forth, 
and  some  rich  specimens  of  the  hawthorn  and  moun- 
tain ash,  with  other  thicket  plants,  gave  a  peculiar 
character  to  the  wild  secluded  scene.  Of  the  ruin, 
only  a  small  angle  remained,  but  heaps  of  stone  lay 
scattered  on  the  unequal  ground  ;  and  the  whole  was 
closed  in  by  lofty  trees  on  every  side.  There  we  lin- 
gered long,  examining  the  various  attempts  at  fortifying 
every  grave  with  something  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  and 
lamenting  over  the  abuse,  alike  of  that  sacred  symbol 
and  of  the  ardent  minds  so  cruelly  fettered  by  super- 
stitious bigotry.  We  spoke  of  early  times,  of  Ire- 
land's former  blessedness,  her  subsequent  degradation, 
and  the  dawning  of  a  hope  too  often  overcast  with 
clouds  of  doubt  and  despondency  respecting  the 
future.  Again  reverting  to  the  high  antiquity  of  her 
monumental  relics,  I  fell  into  a  strain  calculated  to 
quicken  the  nationality  of  my  young  companions, 
which  in  truth  needed  no  stimulus;  and  suddenly  re- 
collecting one  special  immunity  enjoyed  by  the  green 
isle,  I  exclaimed,  "  Oh,  Robert,  Ireland  is  the  only 
country  where  at  this  sultry  season  one  may  plunge 
into  such  grass,  in  the  midst  of  ruins,  and  fear  no  bite 
from  venomous  reptiles."  And  in  illustration  of  the 
fact,  I  stepped  forthwith  into  the  thickest  part  of  the 
vegetation :  but  I  was  presently  reminded  of  John 
Gilpin's  experience, 

Ah,  luckless  speech  and  bootless  boast, 
For  which  he  paid  full  dear, 
7 


74*  LETTER    III. 

for  as  I  vauntingly  proceeded,  I  found  that  the  high 
grass  reaching  to  my  knees,  though  it  harbored  nei- 
ther toad  nor  snake,  concealed  some  very  large  slip- 
pery stones,  on  one  of  which  I  unwittingly  trod,  and 
slid  down  with  my  foot  doubled  under  me.  The 
sprain  was  so  severe  as  to  render  my  return  to  the 
house  rather  difficult,  and  after  a  most  lovely  drive 
back  to  Enniscorthy,  I  found  myself  unable  to  stand 
without  assistance ;  and  what  was  worse,  unable  to 
rist  from  my  bed  in  the  night,  to  take  a  view  at  that 
solemn  hour  of  Vinegar-hill  from  the  glebe-house 
which  stands,  as  I  have  said,  on  the  ascent  of  that 
memorable  ground.  Imagination,  however,  was  busy, 
and  never  did  my  spirit  yearn  with  more  affectionate 
longings  for  the  ingathering  of  the  lost  sheep  of  Erin 
to  the  safe  and  happy  fold,  than  while  resting  in  the 
spot  that  bears  so  fearful  a  testimony  to  the  blood- 
guiltiness  in  which  their  alienation  from  the  faith  of 
the  gospel  has  involved  them. 

I  am  about  to  leave  Wexford,  probably  no  more  to 
revisit  it ;  and  the  consciousness  that  one  stage  of  my 
journey  is  completed,  induces  a  natural  anxiety  to 
review  the  short  period  now  passed,  with  a  reference 
to  the  great  object  of  my  visit.  I  am  confirmed  in 
the  persuasion  that  poverty,  even  in  the  extent  to 
which  it  exists  here,  is  not  the  cause  of  that  turbu- 
lence which  we  deplore ;  at  the  same  time  I  cannot 
doubt  that  it  furnishes  the  most  potent  auxiliary  to 
the  movers  of  sedition,  insomuch  that  an  extensive 
amelioration  of  the  people's  condition  is  indispensa- 
ble, as  an  ingredient  in  any  plan  that  can  rationally  be 
formed  for  their  improvement.  Individual  conver- 
sions may  and  will  take  place,  where  God  is  pleased 


COUNTY  WEXFORD.  75 

to  bless  the  means  used  for  enlightening  the  mind  ; 
but  wherever  the  heart  is  not  spiritually  renewed,  and 
this  we  cannot  look  for  on  a  general  scale,  we  have 
that  to  contend  with  which  will  bid  defiance  to  our 
efforts,  so  long  as  the  native  race  are  left  to  grovel  in 
such  depths  of  poverty,  while  those  whom  they  are 
taught  to  regard  as  hostile  intruders  into  their  coun- 
try live  in  comparative  affluence,  eating  the  fat  of  the 
land.  At  a  period  of  the  world  like  this,  when  in 
every  place  evil  men  and  seducers  wax  worse  and 
worse,  there  will  not  be  wanting  a  party  actively  en- 
gaged in  stirring  up  discontent  among  the  lower 
classes,  whose  success  will  be  commensurate  with  the 
miseries  of  those  to  whom  they  address  themselves. 
Education,  or  as  some  are  content  to  call  it,  useful 
knowledge,  imparted  without  any  reference  to  reli- 
gious principle,  will  aggravate  the  evil.  The  nearer 
the  poor  man  approximates  to  his  rich  neighbor  in 
mental  acquirements,  the  more  intolerably  galling  will 
be  the  degradation  of  his  bodily  wretchedness.  I  re- 
peat, this  misery  is  not  the  origin  of  outrage,  for  the 
fact  is  notorious  that  persons  in  the  enjoyment  of 
competence  are  the  prime  movers  in  such  transac- 
tions ;  but  the  destitution  of  the  lowest  order  keeps 
them  constantly  prepared  to  act  as  powerful  instru- 
ments in  their  hands.  We  are  on  the  eve  of  a  gene- 
ral election,  the  events  of  which,  passing  before  my 
view,  will  prove  whether  or  no  the  priests  exert  their 
influence  as  of  old,  in  exciting  a  political  ferment 
among  their  flocks  ;  or  whether  the  erroneous  conces- 
sions made  have  produced  that  healing  effect  so  large- 
ly promised  by  them.  Hitherto,  I  have  seen  nothing 
to  hold  out  so  cheering  a  prospect  for  the  government 
and  the  people. 


LETTER   IV 


WICKLOW-  DUBLIN. 

Dublin,  July. 
It  was  with  feelings  unusually  depressed  that  I  bade 
farewell  to  my  hospitable  friends  in  the  south,  to  pro- 
ceed hither  unaccompanied  by  my  lively  young  Irish 
companion,  who,  from  the  moment  of  our  quitting  my 
English  home  to  that  of  my  entering  the  Dublin  stage 
at  Enniscorthy,  had  seemed  to  consider  me  his  guest, 
and  performed  all  the  offices  of  hospitality  in  a  truly 
national  spirit.  The  continued  effect  of  my  sprain 
seconded  the  warm  entreaties  of  our  kind  entertain- 
ers to  rest  a  while  longer  under  their  roof,  and  incli- 
nation was  eloquent  on  the  same  side ;  but  I  had  pro- 
mised to  meet  an  old  friend  in  Dublin,  to  arrange  the 
future  line  of  a  route,  that  is  to  terminate  in  Donegal' ; 
and  with  a  heavy  heart  I  quitted  them  all.  You  know 
this  trip  was  relinquished,  after  long  anticipation,  and 
excuses  forwarded  to  the  many  kind  friends  who  had 
engaged  me  to  visit  them.  Circumstances  led  me  to 
resume  my  original  design,  only  a  ^@w  days  before 
starting;  and  one  inconvenience  resulting  from  this 
vacillation  has  been  the  departure  of  several  for  Eng- 
land or  the  coast,  who,  had  I  not  changed  my  first 
plan,  would  have  confined  themselves  at  home  to  re- 
ceive us.  This  will  hinder  a  projected  excursion  into 
Galway,  disappoint    my  hope    of  seeing  Edgworths- 


COUNTY    WICKLOW.  77 

town,  and  materially  circumscribe  our  movements; 
but  the  certainty  of  a  dissolution  of  parliament  recon- 
ciles me  greatly — not  that  I  have  any  personal  fear, 
for  strangers  are  never  molested ;  but  I  do  not  wish 
to  expose  to  my  young  fellow-traveller  the  scene  that 
will  too  surely  be  presented  in  some  parts  of  Ireland, 
at  this  time. 

How  different  was  the  journey  in  a  close  stage, 
from  our  delightful  drives  about  the  country  during 
the  past  week  S  The  scenery  presented  little  to  inte- 
rest, or  else  L  was  not  in  a  mood  to  be  interested  by 
it.  Yet  one  thing  is  always  striking  in  Ireland — the 
courteous  kindness  of  all  classes  where  they  see  it 
will  not  be  coldly  repelled.  No  sooner  was  the  fact 
of  my  having  a  painful  ancle  discovered,  than  all  man- 
ner of  considerate  contrivances  were  adopted  by  our 
fellow-travellers  to  afford  it  an  easy  position  ;  and  by 
the  time  we  reached  Gorey  I  had  become  a  little  more 
alive  to  the  surrounding  objects.  We  had  passed  into 
Wicklow,  but  sad  recollections  continued  to  attach 
themselves  to  the  locality.  A  dreadful  and  disas- 
trous battle  was  fought  here  during  the  rebellion  ;  one 
incident  of  which  you  must  have,  because  I  am  per- 
suaded that  the  touching  anecdote  gave  rise  to  a  song 
that  we  have  both  admired.     You  remember, 

The  minstrel  boy  to  the  wars  is  gone, 

but  I  doubt  whether  you   have   heard   its   probable 
origin. 

In  the   engagement  that  here  took  place  between 
the  King's  troops  and  the  rebels,  the  latter  were  victo- 
rious.    Among  their  prisoners  was  a  little  drummer, 
named  Hunter,  twelve  years  of  age,  who  fell  into  their 
7* 


78  LETTER    IV. 

bands.  They  told  him  he  should  still  carry  his  drum  and 
beat  it  for  them  on  the  march  ;  hut  the  intrepid  child, 
filled  with  loyal  devotion,  exclaimed,  "Never!  the 
drum  that  has  sounded  in  the  King's  service  shall 
never  be  beaten  for  rebels ;"  and  instantly  leaping 
upon  it,  he  burst  it  completely  through.  Must  I  add 
the  sequel  1  the  heroic  little  fellow  was  directly  put 
to  death;  perforated  with  pikes. 

Mr.  Moore  visited  this  spot ;  he  could  not  but  know 
the  tale,  which  is  recorded  in  the  annals  of  the  rebel- 
lion. It  was  worthy  of  the  author  of  **  Captain 
Rock"  to  steal  this  trophy  from  the  brow  of  loyalty, 
and  with  a  little  of  his  own  brilliant  coloring  super- 
added, to  place  it  on  that  of  something  very  different. 
The  minstrel  boy,  who  to  prevent  the  desecration  of 
his  harp,  "tore  its  chords  asunder,"  was  evidently 
fighting  on  the  other  side.  Poor  little  Hunter  lost  the 
wreath  of  poetic  fame  by  being  true  to  his  King ; 
but  we,  at  least,  shall  not  again  fall  in  with  "  The 
minstrel  boy"  without  recollecting  the  youthful  drum* 
mer  at  Gorey. 

We  now  approached  the  far-famed  vale  of  Avoca, 
and  my  curiosity,  sharpened  by  the  assurances  of  my 
fellow-travellers  that  the  scenery  would  surpass  my 
expectation,  led  to  the  achievement  of  an  exploit 
which,  considering  all  things,  you  would  hardly  expect. 
I  was  prevailed  on  to  try  for  an  outside  place  during 
one  stage  ;  and  by  the  extreme  kindness  of  some  very 
Tespectable  females  who  sat  behind  the  coachman, 
warmly  seconded  by  that  functionary,  room  for  me 
and  my  young  friend  was  made  on  the  opposite  ex- 
tremes of  their  seat.  All  their  good-natured  endur- 
ance of  a  squeeze,  however,  scarcely  afforded  space, 


COUNTY    WICKLOW.  79 

and  my  situation  was  not  very  enviable,  perched  on 
three  inches  of  board,  nothing  to  rest  my  foot  upon, 
and  while  the  vehicle  thundered  on  at  the  full  speed 
of  four  fine  horses  down  a  steep  road,  I  was  indebted 
for  support  to  nothing  but  a  strap  passed  across  the 
luggage  on  the  roof  of  the  coach,  of  which  I  contrived 
to  take  a  firm  hold,  at  the  length  of  my  outstretched 
arm.  Repent  I  certainly  did,  and  heartily  wished 
myself  imprisoned  again  ;  but  as  the  beauty  of  the 
vale  opened  on  us,  all  thought  both  of  danger  and 
uneasiness  vanished.  It  appears  like  a  dream,  when 
I  recall  our  rapid  flight  through  that  enchanting  region. 
Our  road  was  a  continued  sweep  downwards,  a  per- 
petual curve,  every  gradual  turn  of  which  revealed 
some  new  feature ;  but  all  in  the  same  style  of  magni- 
ficence. The  bank  on  the  left  is  a  mountain,  abrupt, 
and  so  richly  wooded,  that  the  trees  which  continu- 
ally struck  our  heads  with  their  luxuriant  boughs 
seemed  to  rise  into  the  sky.  Occasionally  an  open  space 
occurred,  and  then  we  saw  the  naked  mountains  where 
the  copper-mines  are  worked,  with  all  their  gigantic 
and  varied  machinery  displayed.  To  the  right,  we  were 
sometimes  enclosed  as  on  the  other  side  ;  but  frequent 
openings  leading  the  eye  downwards  into  a  dell,  gave 
such  a  succession  of  delicious  views  that  I  was  trans- 
ported almost  beyond  taking  due  care  to  preserve  my 
delicate  equilibrium.  A  stream,  so  rich,  so  full,  so 
wildly  playful,  seemed  to  race  us  on  the  other  side  of 
a  beautiful  hedge-row,  above  which  rose  at  short  inter- 
vals a  line  of  noble  trees ;  then  the  lovely  stream 
wound  away,  encircling  a  level  sward  of  green — real 
Irish  emerald  green,  in  the  deepest,  softest,  coolest 
excess  of  that  refreshing  hue.     It  strolled  past  one  of 


80  LETTER    IV. 

those  ancient  round  towers,  the  sight  of  which 
brought  home  to  my  very  soul  the  fact  of  my  being  ir 
Ireland ;  for  I  had  not  seen  one  since  I  quitted  it  thir- 
teen years  ago.  Again  the  road  became  a  close  vista 
of  lofty  trees  ;  and  when  they  next  opened,  the  pic- 
ture to  the  right  was  changed  into  a  strand  of  clear 
©  © 

pebbles,  upon  which  meandered  most  irregularly  some 
shallow  rivulets  crossing  each  other's  path,  a  pictur- 
esque bridge  being  thrown  over  near  the  spot.  This 
was  the  Meeting  of  the  Waters,  as  I  learned  from  the 
coachman,  who  seemed  to  enjoy  my  delight  almost  as 
much  as  I  enjoyed  the  scenery  that  called  it  forth.  It 
was  impossible  to  restrain  the  exclamation,  "  First 
flower  of  the  earth,  first  gem  of  the  sea,"  which 
always  awakens  a  response  in  the  bosoms  of  these 
ardent  people.  Oh,  why  will  we  allow  them  to  hate 
us  as  a  nation,  while  we  hold  the  gift  that  would 
attach  them  in  the  closest  bonds  of  love  and  peace  for 
ever  ! 

After  admiring  the  pretty  little  fishing  town  of  Ark- 
low,  and  sending  some  home-bound  thoughts  over  the 
fine  expanse  of  sea  that  unexpectedly  appeared,  stud- 
ded with  many  a  tawny  sail  and  slender  boat,  I  resigned 
my  elevated  seat,  with  abundance  of  hearty  and  sin- 
cere acknowledgments  to  the  accommodating  party, 
and  thenceforward  from  the  interior  of  the  coach  the 
prospect  was  nothing,  until  we  arrived  at  the  Glen  of 
the  Downs,  a  spot  that  would  again  have  tempted  me 
outside  but  for  the  discovery  that  one  of  the  leaders  was 
so  restive  as  to  endanger  an  overset,  in  which  case  the 
situation  I  should  have  occupied  would  be  one  of  ex- 
treme peril.  I  did  not  feel  justified  m  encountering 
it.     You   will  not,   therefore,  hear  any  more   about 


COUNTY    WICKLOW.  8 1 

Wicklow,  save  that  I  can'  bear  witness  to  the  great 
beauty  of  some  mountains  that  rose  on  the  northern 
verge  of  the  country.  On  pointing  one  of  them  out 
to  my  English  comrade,  I  received'  this  characteris- 
tic reply:  "It  is  very  fine;  but  just  now  I  would 
rather  see  a  pudding  of  the  same  size."  In  fact,  we 
had  been  travelling  eight  hours  on  the  strength  of  a 
light  breakfast ;  and  though  1  had  forgotten  to  be 
hungry,  the  young  gentleman  had  not.  By  this  time 
I  had  formed  a  travelling  acquaintanceship  with  a  fel- 
low passenger.  He  had  seen  me  deposit  my  Bible  in 
a  pocket  of  the  coach,  previous  to  mounting  the  out- 
side ;  and  when  after  expressing  great  admiration  at 
the  glimpse  afforded  us  of  the  Glen  of  the  Downs,  I 
proceeded  to  deplore  the  contrast  between  Ireland's 
natural  beauty  and  the  moral  deformity  overspreading 
her  neglected  population,  he  pointed  to  that  pocket, 
emphatically  remarking,  "The  cure  for  all  this  sin 
and  wretchedness  is  there."  This  of  course  led  to 
a  very  animated  conversation  in  which  he  gave  the 
fullest  confirmation,  the  result  of  his  own  experience, 
to  all  that  I  have  advanced,  and  much  more  that  I  hope 
yet  to  state  on  the  subject.  In  fact,  the  surprising 
beauty  of  this  land,  together  with  the  noble  monu- 
ments of  a  very  high  antiquity  that  perpetually  cross 
your  path,  aided  by  the  recollection  that  it  is  just  off 
the  coast  of  England,  and  has  for  seven  centuries  been 
considered  an  integral  part  of  her  kingdom,  will  force 
upon  your  mind  the  consideration  of  a  problem  that 
admits  but  of  one  solution — the  actual  stale  of  those 
who  form  the  mass  of  Ireland's  population.  If  the 
theme  is  wearisome  in  its  constant  recurrence  on 
paper,  what  must  it  be  in  the  exhibition  of  its  living 


82  LETTER    IV. 

reality — in  the  wretched  hovel,  the  squalid  rags,  the 
care-worn,  poverty-stricken  aspects  that  cast  a  blight- 
ing shadow  upon  the  gorgeousness  of  even  Wicklow 
scenery.     Tourists  in  general  avoid  the  subject,  or 
advert  to  it  only  in  the  way  of  commiserating  regret 
that  so  it   should  be  :  they   cannot  avoid  seeing  how 
grievously  wounded  is  their  poor  brother,  and  robbed 
too  ;  but  they  pass  by  on  the  other  side,  anxious  to  bd 
delivered  from  so  painful  a  sight.     Few  are  the  Sama- 
ritans who  will  pause   to  examine   the  hurt,  for    the 
purpose  of  administering  a  remedy,  or  apprising  others 
of  the  case  to  the  end  that  a  fitting  remedy   may  be 
applied.     Mr.   Inglis  went  into  many  details,  with  a 
most  laudable  desire  to  discover  and  make  known  the 
origin    of   this    acknowledged    misery.      He   judged 
rightly  and  spoke  truly  as  to  the  neglect  of  landlords, 
with  its  attendant  evils   of  unjust,  oppressive  agency, 
and  a  tenantry   debarred  the   common  rights  of  man- 
kind j  but  he   discerned  not   the   hand  employed  by 
night  to  unravel  the  work  of  daylight  benevolence  ; 
he  entered  not  into  the  chambers  of  that  secret  con- 
spiracy  which  prevails  to  render  the  best  efforts  of 
the  best  landlords  abortive,  because  the  interests  of 
those  veiled  magicians  require  a  distressed,  a  discon 
tented  peasantry  to  carry  forward  their  own  nefarious 
designs.     Inglis  was  a  very  clever  man,  and  a  kind- 
hearted  one  ;  but   he  was  altogether  a  man  of   the 
world,  who  never  carried  his  inquiries  or  anticipations 
beyond  what  he  could  look  upon  with  the  bodily  e\es 
of  a  philanthropist.     Had  he  pursued  the  same  route 
some  five-and-thirty  years  sooner,  he  would  have  pos- 
sessed a  clue  to  the  grand  secret  of  what  pained  and 
perplexed  him  so  much  in  "  Ireland,  in   183^."     The 


COUx\TY   WICKLOW.  83 

aeuteness  would  presently  have  directed  him  to  that 
quarter  unsuspected  because  unknown  to  his  expe- 
rience, whence  emanated  the  former  horrors  that,  at 
different  periods,  have  disfigured  the  land  with  blood: 
and  he  would  have  been  tempted  to  inquire  whether 
the  unchanged  aspect  of  the  population,  their  unal- 
tered ignorance,  bigotry  and  hatred  of  anything  Eng- 
lish, might  not  be  traceable  to  the  unchangeableness  of 
a  system  that,  whoever  or  whatever  may  ostensibly 
bear  rule,  is  notoriously  the  governing  power  among 
that  class  of  people. 

On  the  other  hand,  Mr.  Noel  experienced  the  force 
of  first  impressions.  His  observations,  it  seems, 
commenced  at  Drogheda,  where  he  took  for  his  guide 
and  informant,  "  a  civil  and  intelligent  tradesman,"  of 
the  Romish  creed.  Whether  this  worthy  citizen  con- 
sulted with  his  spiritual  directors  as  to  the  best  plan 
of  meeting  the  case — to  them  rather  a  startling  one — 
of  a  pious,  literary,  influential  English  clergyman 
avowedly  come  over  to  investigate  that  delicate  point, 
the  origin  of  Irish  evils,  we  cannot  do  more  than 
surmise  ;  but  it  is  sufficiently  clear  that  with  admira- 
ble tact  the  individual  gave  an  adroit  turn  to  the 
course  of  his  visitor's  inquiries,  and  slipped  the 
whisky-shop  so  effectually  between  his  penetrating 
eye  and  the  masshouse,  that  it  engrossed  thenceforth 
the  traveller's  attention  almost  exclusively.  I  have 
not  yet  seen  Drogheda,  nor  do  I  know  anything  of  its 
size  ;  but  I  hope  to  take  it  in  my  route,  and  to  judge 
whether  it  be  of  sufficient  bulk  or  importance  to  ac- 
count for  the  extraordinary  fact  stated  by  Mr.  Noel's 
informant  :  viz.  that  he,  the  tradesman  aforesaid, 
failed  in  his  praiseworthy  attempt  at  reforming  the 


84  LETTER    IV. 

whole  population  by  becoming  in  his  own  person  a 
member  of  a  Temperance  Society,  and  giving-  the 
weight  of  his  influence  to  a  canvass  for  signatures  to 
the  pledge.  It  seems  indeed  that  many,  with  the  good 
nature  that  renders  it  difficult  for  an  Irishman  to  say 
no,  did  relent  and  sign  :  but  the  evil  habit  had  obtained 
too  £reat  an  ascendency  to  be  easily  laid  aside,  and 
they  relapsed.  The  worthy  tradesman  "  saw  it  to  be 
useless,  and  accordingly  withdrew."  The  people  of 
Drogheda  continued  intemperate  :  the  usual  charac- 
teristics of  the  lower  classes  remained  unchanged,  they 
were  still  idle,  dissolute,  dirty,  lawless,  impoverished. 
All  this  was  clearly  shown,  no  doubt,  to  be  solely 
attributable  to  the  failure  of  the  Temperance  Society 
plan  :  had  that  succeeded,  the  people  would  have 
become  moral,  industrious,  peaceable,  loyal:  would 
have  eschewed  Ribbonism,  and  built  pig-sties.  This 
was  held  out  as  an  epitome  of  all  Ireland  :  and  by  a 
deduction  as  incontrovertible  as  the  premises  were 
just,  all  Ireland's  ills  would  vanish  along  with  the  last 
exhalation  of  the  last  tumbler  of  whiskypunch  that 
should  taint  her  atmosphere  with  its  noxious  fumes. 

Such  was  the  beautiful  theory  sketched  out  by  the 
patriotic  man  of  Drogheda.  Alas,  that  anything  so 
goodly  should  exhibit  but  the  baseless  fabric  of  a 
vision.  Independent  of  the  fact  that,  fetter  as  you 
will  a  member  of  that  church  with  oaths,  not  to  say 
mere  nominal  pledges,  a  nod  in  the  confessional  leaves 
him  free  and  fearless  to  smile  at  the  broken  fragments 
of  his  bonds  ;  I  never  yet  found  that  lopping  away  the 
topmost  branches  of  a  vigorous  tree,  would  reach  the 
vitality  of  its  root.  Drunkenness  is  the  most  wide- 
spread, the  most  conspicuous,  most  debasing  fruit  of 


COUNTY    WICKLOW.  85 

the  national  upas  here  ;  bat  the  root  lies  below,  hidden 
deep  beneath  the  surface  ;  and  he  who  would  per- 
manently smite  the  branches,  must  dig  into  its  dark 
abode,  bare  the  accursed  fibres;  and  with  a  strong  arm 
rend  therri  forth  from  their  lurking-place,  no  more  to 
pollute  the  soil  that  they  usurp,  transforming  its 
healthful  juices  into  deadly  poison,  and  circulating 
them  through  the  boughs  whose  goodly  shadow 
murders  where  it  falls.  The  palpable  device  practised 
on  an  unsuspicious,  because  an  honorable,  an  upright^ 
and  a  most  benevolent  and.  pious  man,  succeeded  so 
far  as  to  inspire  the  operator  with  some  hope  of  con- 
vincing him  that,  as  whisky  was  the  sole  origin  of 
Irish  misery  and  sin,  so  the  church  of  Rome  was  the 
Catholic  church,  the  great  spiritual  Temperance 
Society,  the  panacea  for  all  present  error  and  future 
wo! 

Here,  ftowever,  ne  could  not  succeed :  he  had  a 
Christian  to  deal  with,  who,  though  throughout  his 
book  he  by  some  oversight  concedes  to  the  Eomish 
church  that  term  to  which  she  has  no  claim  whatever 
still  knows  her  to  be  the  mother  and  mistress  of  all 
abominations,  the  destroyer  of  man,  and  the  enemy 
of  God.  In  this  part  of  his  undertaking,  therefore^ 
the  Drogheda  tradesman  utterly  failed. 

Our  travelling  friend  was  evidently  a  gentleman  of 
high  intelligence,  who  had  seen  much,  and  reflected 
not  a  little  on  the  subject  that  engrossed  my  mind. 
He,  too,  had  taken  both  history  and  prophecy  to  aid 
him  in  reading  the  mysterious  pages  of  the  present 
day  ;  and  strongly  expressed  his  conviction,  that  our 
only  help  must  come  from  the  name  of  the  Lord, 
proclaimed  according  to  his  appointed  way  throughout. 
8 


86  LETTER    IV. 

the   land      The  congregated   swarm  of  beggars  who 

DO  O  O 

besieged  the  coach  at  the  commencement  of  our  last 
stage,  led  us  also  to  the  topic  of  an  equitable  provision 
for  the  outcast  poor ;  and  here,  too,  I  was  much 
gratified  to  find  a  coincidence  of  opinion.  We 
entered  Dublin  at  last,  and  I  found  myself  once  more 
among  familiar  scenes.  Hitherto  my  journey  had 
been  on  ground  untrod  before  Waterford,  Wexford, 
Wicklow,  were  perfectly  new  to  me :  not  so  Dublin. 
Personal  feeling  became  so  strong,  as  I  looked  upon  its 
weil-remembered  outlines,  that  even  the  theme  on 
which  I  had  been  conversing  lost  its  absorbing  inter- 
est and  self  predominated.  We  crossed  Stephen's 
Green,  thrown  open  into  a  more  visible  expanse  by 
the  removal  of  the  noble  trees  that  once  shaded  its 
ample  inclosure ;  but  no  improvement  thoroughly 
reconciles  me  to  the  loss  of  an  old  tree,  much  less  of 
a  long  and  stately  line  like  that  which  has  been 
levelled  here.  We  passed  the  hotel  whence  with  an 
aching  heart  I  last  took  my  departure  for  England, 
and  after  leaving  the  coach,  and  vainly  inquiring  for 
a  covered  conveyance,  I  once  more  mounted  the 
national  car  to  present  myself,  an  unexpected  guest, 
at  the  house  of  a  dear  old  friend.  Of  course  you  will 
again  denounce  as  an  instance  of  blind  partiality  my 
oft-repeated  assertion,  that  London  can  show  nothing 
to  equal  the  line  of  street  stretching  from  College 
Green  to  Rutland  Square.  At  all  hazards  I  reiterate 
it  j  although  the  English  metropolis  has  added  to  her 
architectural  displays  the  striking  features  of  Regent 
Street,  and  Park,  Belgrave  Square,  and  the  Carlton 
Place  buildings,  since  last  I  saw  Dublin.  I  cannot 
yield  the  palm :  I  cannot  find  a  competitor  for  the 


COUNTY    WICKLOW.  87 

coup  (Tml  that  appears,  when  emerging  from  Grafton 
Street,  you  behold  on  your  right  the  massive,  com- 
pact, severe  looking  old  University,  with  its  advanced 
ground,  a  lofty  wall  of  a  most  frowning  aspect,  with 
here  and  there  a  tree  flinging  its  patriarchal  arm  over 
the  rampart ;  on  your  left  the  fine  opening  of  the  so- 
called  green,  which  is  an  exceedingly  wide  street 
stretching  away  in  perspective,  while  in  the  most 
central  point  William  of  Orange  bestrides  his  horse, 
apparently  but  little  hurt  by  his  recent  fall  from  the 
very  high  pedestal  that  supports  him.  The  corner  of 
this  street  is  occupied  by  the  magnificent  bank  for- 
merly the  parliament  house  of  Ireland.  You  h;ive 
seen  good  prints  of  this  extraordinary  building,  and 
have  allowed  it  to  be  beautiful :  but  unless  you  beheld 
the  thing  itself,  contrasted  in  the  lightsomeness  of 
its  noble  aspect  with  the  unadorned  solidity  of  the 
grave  college ;  unless  you  saw  with  what  exquisite 
gracefulness  it  sweeps  round,  transforming  that  angu- 
lar corner  of  two  streets  into  a  gentle  curve ;  unless 
you  could  witness  the  effect  of  its  grove  of  Ionic  and 
Corinthian  columns,  clustering  over  an  extent  of  one 
hundred  and  forty-seven  feet  in  length,  with  the 
elegant  cornices,  the  sculptured  frieze,  the  li<rht 
balustrade,  the  majestic  porticoes,  the  combination  of 
all  that  is  rich,  grand,  and  chaste,  which  entirely 
covers  an  acre  and  a  half  of  ground, — unless  ynu 
could  really  look  upon  all  this,  my  good  friend,  I 
deny  your  capability  for  forming  any  opinion  on  the 
subject. 

But  this  is  only  the  foreground,  right  and  left. 
Straight  on  you  look  through  Westmoreland  Street, 
a  short  but  very  wide  thoroughfare,  worthy  of  its 


88  LETTER    IV. 

entrance,  and  terminating"  in  Carlisle  bridge,  the 
easternmost  of  the  elegant  structures  thrown  across 
the  LifTey,  up  to  the  pier  of  which  extends  the  forest 
of  masts,  like  that  of  our  own  Thames  at  London 
Bridge,  though  of  course  not  so  numerous,  nor  is  the 
river  of  such  a  mighty  width.  Hence  the  unwavering 
line,  direct  as  an  arrow's  flight,  is  still  carried  on 
through  the  long,  broad  noble  avenue  of  Sackville 
Street,  terminating  in  the  Lying-in-hospital,  the 
Rotunda,  and  the  rising  gardens  of  Rutland  Square, 
which,  standing  on  a  sudden  ascent,  throws  its  luxuri- 
ant vegetation  hisfh  and  wide,  giving*-  a  finish  to  the 
picture  that  nothing  else  could  have  bestowed.  In 
the  centre  of  Sackville  Street,  not  far  from  the  bridge, 
stands  the  fluted  column,  upwards  of  120  feet  high, 
which  bears  a  colossal  statue  of  Lord  Nelson  ;  and  to 
the  left  of  this  the  General  Post  Office,  worthy,  for 
the  chaste  grandeur  of  its  design  and  nobleness  of 
execution,  to  stand  so  near  the  Bank.  This  street 
was  formerly  the  abode  of  the  Irish  aristocracy,  when 
Ireland  was  a  nation,  and  had  a  senate  of  her  own. 
Privileges  that  she  might  still  enjoy,  but  for  the  dia- 
bolical spirit  of  that  system  which,  calling  itself  a 
religion,  recks  not  to  what  it  may  expose  its  votaries, 
so  that  their  guilty  tumults  and  throes  of  agony  assist 
to  heave  it  into  political  supremacy.  Striking  in  beauty 
and  magnificence  as  is  the  scene  I  am  thus  lingering 
upon,  even  these  fade  before  the  awful  interest  that 
clings  around  it.  Those  dark  college  bulwarks 
frowned  defiance  on  James  Stuart's  efforts  to  force  an 
unprincipled  man,  his  fellow-tool  in  the  hands  of 
popery,  upon  their  Protestant  establishment.  They 
lifted  no  hostile  hand  against  the  fugitive  prince,  who 


COUNTY    WICKLOW.  89 

came  to  regain  in  Ireland  the  throne  that  in  England 
he  had  abdicated  :  but  they  firmly  resisted  the  inva- 
sion of  their  rights,  and  sooner  than  compromise 
those  rights,  or  tarnish  their  Protestant  faith,  they 
permitted  their  house  to  be  assaulted  by  armed 
troops,  their  treasures  to  be  seized,  themselves  impri- 
soned or  thrust  out,  and  the  peaceful  chambers  of 
science  and  divinity  to  become  a  barrack  for  licentious 
troops.  Then  the  Bank — I  should  never  get  beyond 
it,  if  I  were  once  to  let  loose  mjr  pen  on  the  subject. 
The  extinction  of  the  Irish  parliament,  which  had  for 
sixty  years  occupied  that  building,  would  lead  me 
back  beyond  the  limit  of  six  hundred  if  I  ventured 
into  the  track — I  must  turn  from  it.  Sad  enough  it 
is,  in  passing  on,  to  realize  the  fact  that  the  stately 
abodes  of  Ireland's  aristocracy  know  their  former 
possessors  no  longer.  Lines  of  noble  houses,  con- 
verted into  hotels,  shops,  and  public  institutions, 
announce  what  Dublin  has  been,  and  too  vividly 
declare  what  Ireland  is.  A  resident,  wealthy,  enlight- 
ened aristocracy,  attached  to  their  country,  and 
rightly  informed  as  to  their  true  interests —  a  repre- 
sentation purged  of  the  old  leaven  of  malice  and 
wickedness  that  wrought  destruction  here,  and  is  now 
fulfilling  the  same  work  in  Westminster, — a  church, 
built  up  and  strengthened  by  the  hand  of  righteous 
authority,  with  those  very  men  for  her  ministers  who 
now  in  persecution  and  affliction  maintain  their  posts 
among  her  ruins — Oh,  might  I  but  live  to  see  such  a 
day  for  poor  Ireland !  But  it  is  a  vision  flitting  by, 
like  the  summer  clouds  that  have  passed  over  me  while 
I  penned  the  thought;  beautiful,  unsubstantial,  and 
gone  for  ever. 

8* 


90  LETTER    IV. 

By  the  way,  I  have  been  advised  to  say  as  li'.tle  as 
possible  to  mark  the  distinction  between  nominal  and 
vital  Christianity.  I  am  told  that  other  books  have 
been  received  and  read  far  more  extensively,  by 
means  of  a  little  prudent  reserve  on  the  part  of  their 
writers,  who  kept  back  what  might  excite  the  scorn 
of  carnal  minds,  and  thus  prevent  their  well-meaning 
representations  from  being  attended  to  in  high  quar- 
ters. This  is  well  adapted  to  the  master-spirit  of  the 
day — expediency  i  but  until  L  find  in  my  Bible  some 
sanction  for  it,  I  dare  not  either  in  lip  or  pen  be  a 
dissembler.  Let  such  as  doubt  the  reality  of  the 
truths  which  they  profess  to  believe,  disguise  or  con- 
ceal them  :  I  believe — therefore  do  I  speak.  God  will 
never  put  honor  upon  any  other  course  than  that 
which,  proceeding  from  an  open  acknowledgment  of 
Christ  crucified,  has  for  the  avowed  end  of  all  its 
efforts,  Christ  glorified. 

One  of  my  first  movements  here  was  to  visit  again 
that  rich  magazine  of  spiritual  stores,  the  Religious 
Tract  and  Book  Society's  depot,  in  Upper  Sackville- 
street.  Many  and  sweet  are  the  recollections  that 
endear  it  to  me  :  it  was  there  that  I  first  learned  to 
wield  an  humble  weapon  in  the  Lord's  service,  and.  to 
experience  how  events  in  themselves  painful  and  unto- 
ward could  be  made  to  work  together  for  good  to 
myself  and  others.  In  the  hour  of  affliction,  depres- 
sion, I  may  almost  say  of  destitution,  there  it  was 
that  I  found  not  only  Christian  sympathy  for  the  then 
present,  but  cheering  encouragement  to  enter  upon  a 
path  of  honest  industry,  with  the  prospect  of  indepen- 
dence, and,  as  the  Lord  might  vouchsafe  to  bless  the 
labor,  usefulness  to  his  cause,  and  to  the  dear  people 


DUBLIN.  91 

of  this  land,  yet  sitting  in  darkness  and  the  shadow  of 
death.  I  could  not  without  strong  emotion  re-enter 
the  open  doors,  and  look  round  upon  the  accumulated 
treasures  of  spiritual  knowledge  ranged  about  me. 
Truly  that  house  is  to  me  somewhat  of  the  nature  of 
Jacob's  pillar  ;  and  to  the  God  of  Jacob,  the  Angel 
who  redeemed  him  from  all  evil,  the  Guide  who  led 
him  all  his  life  long,  my  heart  ascended  in  thankful 
acknowledgment  that,  as  with  him,  so  it  had  been 
with  me.  The  institution  has  wrought  an  immense 
amount  of  solid  good  in  the  land,  not  only  among  the 
poor,  but  peculiarly  in  the  higher  ranks  of  society. 
Its  publications,  restrained  as  they  are  within  the 
bounds  of  an  excellent  code  of  printed  rules,  and  sub- 
jected to  the  searching  scrutiny  of  a  most  able  com- 
mittee, cannot  but  be  select :  the  numerous  reprints 
of  standard  old  writings,  or  rather  the  concentrated 
forms  in  which  their  spirit  is  exhibited,  have  done 
much  towards  raising  the  tone  of  religious  principle 
and  practice  ;  while  their  tracts,  carefully  adapted  to 
the  spiritual  wants  of  the  mingled  population,  Romish 
or  nominally  Protestant,  carry  the  purest  scriptural 
doctrine,  like  good  seed,  to  many  a  spot  of  rich  but 
neglected  soil.  The  Tract  and  Book  Society  is  a  val- 
uable instrument  in  promoting  the  knowledge  of  the 
truth,  and  its  utility  in  following  up  the  work  of  the 
various  schools  is  incalculable. 

To  many  a  sharp  trial  has  the  faith  of  its  conduct 
ors  been  exposed ;  and  often  does  the  menace   of  an 
entire  stoppage  overhang  the  machinery,  through  the 
failure  of  funds  ;  resulting  partly  from  the  lukewarm 
ness  of  public  support,  and  partly  from  the  multiplici- 
ty of  demands  on  the  purse  of  Christian  beneficence 


92  LETTER   IV. 

Ireland  is  very  poor,  view  her  how  you  will,  except 
in  natural  beauty,  and  in  the  good  works  of  her 
believing  children  :  and  if  those  in  England  who, 
without  the  stimulus  of  personal  observation,  stretch 
forth  a  helping  hand  to  her,  could  see  all  that  I  have 
seen,  and  learn  all  that  I  have  learned,  both  of  the 
need  for  and  the  value  of  their  generous  aid,  they 
would  thank  God,  and  take  courage,  and  abound 
more  and  more. 

From  this  establishment,  after  enjoying  a  delight- 
ful interview  with  one  of  mine  and  Ireland's  best 
friends,  whom  I  found  where  I  left  him  thirteen  years 
ago,  at  his  post,  voluntarily  and  indefatigably 
employed  in  promoting  the  welfare  of  the  society  to 
which  he  has  long  devoted  himself  and  all  that  he 
has — I  proceeded  to  the  neighboring  house  appropri- 
ated to  the  offices  of  different  religious  associations. 
In  one  of  these  I  met  and  conversed  with  a  fine  intel- 
ligent youth,  the  son  of  an  Irish  clergyman,  who  has 
been  admitted  into  the  school  at  Edgeworthtown. 
It  is  a  great  disappointment  to  me  to  find  that  indis- 
pensable business  still  detains  the  dean  of  Ardagh  in 
England ;  for  I  was  to  have  been  his  guest,  and  to 
have  gone  into  all  the  details,  and  examined  all  the 
operations  of  that  important  institution.  This  I  must 
now  abandon ;  but  it  is  a  pleasure  to  have  received 
from  the  lips  of  a  pupil  a  full  confirmation  of  all  that 
I  believed  and  hoped  respecting  it.  You  are  aware 
that  when  the  recent  desperate  effort  was  made  to 
crush  the  Church  of  Ireland  by  starving  her  ministers 
at  their  posts,  it  was  overruled,  among  other  good 
things,  to  the  establishment  of  a  school  where,  for  a 
sum  little  more  than  nominal,  a  number  of  the  sons 


DUBLIN.  93 

of  these  oppressed  clergymen  proportioned  to  the 
amount  of  its  funds,  are  received,  boarded,  and  most 
liberally  educated,  with  a  view  to  mercantile,  literary, 
or  scientific  pursuits,  according'  to  the  bent  of  their 
own  or  parents'  inclinations.  A  large  class  is  set 
apart  for  entrance  into  college  ;  such  of  them  as  lo  )k 
forward  to  the  sacred  ministry  being  carefully  in- 
structed in  the  Irish  language,  that  key  to  all  useful- 
ness among  the  native  population  throughout  a  great 
extent  of  territory,  and  that  in  the  darkest  quarters 
of  the  land.  Thus  has  the  rude  shaking  of  the  parent 
plant  occasioned  a  deposit  of  much  precious  seed 
upon  a  soil  where  it  promises  to  yield  fruit  a  hundred 
fold.  Sanctified  afflictions  have  always  produced 
signal  blessings  to  the  church  of  Christ  ;  the  indi- 
vidual sufferings  of  Joseph,  and  the  general  persecu- 
tion that  followed  Stephen's  martyrdom,  were  alike 
glorious  in  their  results  ;  and  is  it  not  cheering  to 
trace  the  same  untiring  hand  of  providential  love 
still  overruling  for  good  the  troubles  of  his  people, 
and  compelling  the  wrath  of  their  enemies  to  praisp 
him  1 

I  have  named  the  Irish  language,  and  you  are 
doubtless  prepared  to  hear  a  great  deal  on  the  subject 
of  «he  Irish  Society,  now  that  I  am  at  the  central 
point  of  their  operations.  Strictly  speaking,  that 
distinction  belongs  not  to  Dublin,  but  to  Kingscourt; 
and  one  of  the  greatest  disappointments  I  have  en- 
countered results  from  the  lamented  indisposition  of 
a  dear  friend,  which  has  laid  her  fast  by  the  sea-side, 
when  I  had  hoped  to  visit  with  her  that  scene  of 
her  assiduous  labors.  Neither  Kincscourt,  Edge- 
worthtown  nor  Achill,  can  now  be    included  in  my 


94  LETTER    IV. 

route  ;  and  the  absence  from  town,  at  this  sultry  sea« 
son,  of  all  who  can  escape  to  the  country,  while  the 
inland  inhabitants  have  hastened  to  the  coast,  leaves 
me  to  make  what  I  can  of  a  contracted  sphere  of  ob* 
servation.  A  miniature  Kingscourt  I  have,  however, 
enjoyed  :  for  on  going  to  the  house  of  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Pendleton,  the  secretary  and  devoted  helper  of  that 
society,  J  found  him,  though  confined  by  illness  to 
his  study,  busily  engaged  in  encouraging  to  the  work 
three  interesting  peasants,  delivered  from  the  thral- 
dom of  Popery,  and  preparing  to  go  forth  with  that 
polished  weapon,  the  Irish  Scriptures,  to  assail  the 
strongholds  from  which  they  had  escaped.  My 
heart  overflowed  with  contentment  as  I  looked  on 
these  men  :  their  simple,  yet  sparkling  countenances, 
the  earnestness  of  their  attention  while  listening  to 
their  instructor,  the  fervent  response  that  lightened 
every  feature  of  their  faces  into  joyous  animation, 
when  I  spoke  my  thankfulness  on  their  behalf,  and 
implored  them  to  labor  without  ceasing  for  the 
souls  of  their  brethren  after  the  flesh, — all  fell  like  a 
refreshing  shower  on  my  spirit,  wrought  as  it  was 
into  feverish  excitement  by  contemplating  the  im- 
mensity of  the  demand,  the  paucity  of  means  to  meet 
it.  Sweetly  did  the  passage  recur  to  mind,  "  There 
is  no  restraint  with  the  Lord,  to  save  by  many  or  by 
few."  A  single  individual,  endowed  with  the  Pente- 
costian  gift  of  tongues,  was  the  means  of  converting 
three  thousand  in  one  day  ;  and  here  was  the  same 
gift,  not  indeed  conferred  miraculously,  but  gracious- 
ly consecrated  to  the  same  end,  of  making  known  to 
the  people,  in  their  own  language,  wherein  they  were 
born,  the  wonderful  works  of  God.     Two  of  the  con- 


DUBLIN.  95 

verts  were  young  men,  recently  brought  out  of  bon- 
dage ;  the  third  was  a  veteran  in  the  service,  rejoic- 
ing anew  in  his  own  deliverance,  while  he  blessed 
the  Lord  for  theirs. 

And  from  what  were  they  delivered  1  Glance 
back  on  the  fearful  scenes  from  which  I  have  ventured 
partially  to  lift  the  veil,  while  writing  on  Wexford. 
Had  I  withdrawn  it  farther,  you  could  hardly  have 
endured  the  exhibition.  It  was  from  a  liability  to  be 
called  on  for  such  services  as  were  there  performed 
by  the  wretched  peasantry,  that  the  men  before  me 
were  delivered.  From  the  secret  oath  that  bound 
them  to  murder ;  from  the  midnight  rendezvous  of 
hardening  preparations  for  that  task ;  from  the  mut- 
terings  of  rebellious  discontent,  the  groanings  of  un- 
mitigated distress,  the  execrations  of  unrestrained 
rage,  the  incoherent  ribaldry  of  habitual  drunkenness, 
— from  all  these  they  were  delivered  ;  and  they  were 
brought  to  rejoice  in  a  bond  of  universal  love  to  God 
and  man,  to  meet  their  assembled  countrymen  with  a 
message  of  mercy  and  peace,  to  receive  with  thank- 
fulness at  the  Lord's  hand  whatever  portion  he  might 
see  good  to  mete  out  to  them,  and  to  use  their 
tongues  as  instruments  to  show  forth  his  glory  and 
praise,  in  a  walk  of  sobriety,  charity,  and  holiness. 
In  this  transition  from  the  power  of  Satan  to  the 
kingdom  of  God,  they  well  knew  that  they  were  to 
become  a  mark  for  persecution,  violence,  personal 
injury,  and  perhaps  a  cruel  death  ;  for  it  is  a  fact, 
that  there  are  few  among  these  devoted  missionary 
peasants  who  do  not  bear  in  their  bodies  the  marks 
of  the  Lord  Jesus,  in  visible  scars  from  the  fierce 
attacks  to   which  their  undertaking  exposes  themj 


86  LETTER    IV. 

and  several  have  been  barbarously  murdered — a  noble 
little  army  of  martyrs,  of  small  account  with  men, 
but  Oh  !  how  precious  in  the  sight  of  Him  for  whose1 
sake  they  are  willing-  to  die,  not  counting  their  lives 
dear  unto  them,  so  that  they  may  declare  unto  their 
deluded  brethren  the  unsearchable  riches  of  Christ! 

From  Mr.  Pendleton  I  received  most  delightful  re- 
ports of  the  progress  made  in  this  work.  It  is  be- 
yond all  others  a  debt,  for  the  non-payment  of  which 
we  shall  have  to  yield  up  a  tremendous  account,  if  we 
see  not  to  it  while  yet  there  is  time.  You  are  aware 
of  the  terms  on  which  Henry  II.  undertook  the  con- 
quest of  this  country.  A  church,  planted  by  the 
hands  either  of  an  apostle  or  his  immediate  successor', 
existed  in  Ireland  for  centuries  before  the  apostacy  of 
the  Romish  see  revealed  "  that  wicked"  who  has  for 
upwards  of  twelve  hundred  years  usurped  it,  and  made 
war  upon  the  saints.*  Patrick  was  a  Roman  Briton^ 
a  member  of  the  pure  scriptural  church  in  which  Al- 
ban  was  the  protomartyr  ;  and  the  doctrine  which  he 
proclaimed  in  Ireland,  not  later  than  the  fourth  cenfc 
tury,  was  that  of  the  undefiled  gospel.  To  the  peo- 
ple of  this  country  he  became  exceedingly  dear,  and 
his  memory  Was  held  in  such  veneration  among  them, 
that  when  the  Romish  apostacy  resolved  to  direct  one 
of  its  poisoned  streams  through  Ireland,  their  emis- 
sary Paliadius  adopted  the  name  of  Patrick,  and  com- 
menced his  mission  in  430,  professing  to  hold  the 
same  truths  with  that  eminent  teacher  of  righteousness, 
and  thus  laying  the  foundation  for  a  confusion  of  the 
two  individuals  which  involves  the  early  history  of  the 
Irish  church  in  such  darkness  and  perplexity.     Still 

*  See  Appendix  D. 


DUBLIN.  97 

the  corrupting  process,  aided  by  continual  machina- 
tions on  the  part  of  the  Vatican,  was  so  impeded  by 
the  attachment  of  the  Irish  to  their  pure  ancient 
church,  and  by  the  independent  spirit  of  the  clergy, 
that  so  late  as  1156  Pope  Adrian  was  obliged  to  avail 
himself  of  the  filial  piety  of  our  second  Henry,  to  pro- 
pagate with  fire  and  sword  the  holy  doctrines  of  his 
apostolic  see.*  Artramont,  Castle  Cairrig,  and  the 
other  stately  ruins  that  frowned  on  us  in  solitary  gran* 
deur  from  amid  the  groves  and  gardens  of  those  beau- 
tiful banks  of  Slaney,  marked  the  advancing  steps  of 
popish  aggression ;  and  many  more  of  like  character 
I  am  probably  to  meet  in  the  course  of  my  rambles. 
Wherever  the  British  sword  prevailed,  the  Romish 
crucifix  was  planted  ;  the  voice  of  Gospel  truth,  al- 
ready much  weakened,  and  giving  forth  an  uncertain 
sound,  was  totally  silenced ;  and  the  man  of  sin,  with 
his  hosts  of  cowled  monks,  begging  friars,  and  tyran- 
nical priests,  over-ran  the  soil,  like  the  Egyptian 
plague  of  frogs — 

'Till  the  land  stank,  so  numerous  was  the  fry. 

Retribution — what  thinking  mind  can  term  it  other- 
wise'? has  overtaken  us.  Our  fathers  invaded  Ireland 
for  the  avowed  purpose  of  fettering  the  people  to  the 
chariot  wheel  of  Popery.  They  succeeded  ;  Ireland 
became  the  very  hot-bed  of  that  evil,  her  children  its 
most  assiduous  cultivators  and  propagators.  Centu- 
ries rolled  on ;  England,  awakened  from  her  fatal 
dream,  burst  her  own  bonds,  but  neglected  to  remove 
the  manacles  with  which  she  had  loaded  her  poor  sis- 
ter.    This  her  sin  has  found  her  out,  in  a  manner  cal- 

*  See  Appendix  E. 


98  LETTER   IV. 

culated  to  make  the  earth  tremble  and  fear  before  the 
just  God.  The  Popery  that  she  fastened  upon  Ire- 
land makes  the  latter  a  continual  thorn  in  her  side, 
yea,  an  adder  in  her  path,  and  that  of  her  race  who* 
have  settled  in  it.  The  Protestantism  that  she  rooted 
out  is  now  the  object  of  their  implacable  hatred,  whose 
fathers  were  despoiled  of  the  blessing.  It  is  nothing 
else  than  trifling  with  the  Most  High,  and  making  light 
of  his  eternal  attributes,  to  devise  schemes  for  restor- 
ing  peace  to  this  country  while  her  population  remain 
in  the  attitude  of  wrar  against  the  Lamb,  thirsting  for 
the  blood  of  his  saints.  As  to  the  notion  of  dispelling 
this  tenfold  night  by  letting  the  twinkling  glimmer  of 
rationality  play  upon  it  through  the  chinks  of  "  useful 
knowledge"  contrivances,  apart  from  spiritual  instruc* 
tion,  I  can  only  account  for  it  by  remembering  how 
invariably  men  professing  to  be  wise  have  become 
fools,  whenever  they  took  upon  themselves  to  discover 
a  more  excellent  way  than  the  Lord  himself  has  ap- 
pointed, for  carrying  into  effect  his  divine  plans  of 
government. 

The  debt  of  duty  which  we  owe  to  the  Irish  people 
is  to  break  the  shackles  that  our  fathers  imposed  on 
them:  all  the  political  projects,  and  expedient  con- 
trivances ever  broached,  merely  tend  to  gild  those 
shackles.  Still  dragged  at  the  chariot  wheel  of  impi- 
ous Rome,  the  poor  victims  must  go  wheresoever  she 
will,  and  execute  whatsoever  she  commands.  Clad 
or  naked,  housed  or  shelterless,  fed  or  famished,  sober 
or  drunk,  they  must  do  her  bidding.  In  the  lowest 
debasement  of  ignorance,  or  replenished  to  the  lips 
with  unsanctified  "  useful  knowledge,"  their  mental 
and  moral   subjugation  is  perfect  j  their  conscience 


DUBLIN.  99 

enthralled,  their  actions,  their  words,  their  very 
thoughts  under  the  despotic  control  of  those  who  as- 
sume to  overrule  the  decrees  of  the  Eternal,  as  well 
they  may,  when  they  affect  to  create  his  substance  out 
of  a  piece  of  dough,  and  compel  their  wretched  slaves 
to  worship  the  work  of  their  hands.  Can  a  fraction 
of  our  awful  debt  he  paid  while  such  a  state  of  things 
is  allowed  to  continue  ?  Nothing  short  of  judicial 
blindness  can  lead  to  so  futile  a  hope.  No  —  a 
quenched  Gospel  was  the  origin  of  all  these  calami- 
ties, this  Egyptian  darkness  ;  and  a  rekindled  Gospel, 
casting  its  glorious  beams  far  and  wide  over  the  isle, 
can  alone  restore  light,  alone  bring  peace,  and  induce 
prosperity. 

This  leads  us  to  the  point  where  I  delight  to  rest, 
and  to  look  abroad  upon  a  brightening  prospect. 
*lHow  shall  they  believe  in  him  of  whom  they  have 
not  heard  1  asks  the  apostle  of  the  Gentiles  ;  "  and 
how  shall  they  hear  without  a  preacher  1"  Again,  the 
same  inspired  messenger  declares,  "  If  I  know  not  the 
meaning  of  the  voice,  I  shall  be  unto  him  that  speak- 
eth,  a  barbarian,  and  he  that  speaketh  shall  be  a  bar- 
barian unto  me."  These  two  short  passages,  taken 
in  their  obvious  connection  with  each  other  and  with 
the  subject  before  me,  are  worth  a  volume  of  human 
reasoning.  Our  work  is  to  restore  the  gospel  to  these 
people  in  the  tongue  that  they  understand  ;  and  to 
accomplish  this  object  the  Irish  Society  was  institut- 
ed. The  only  question  therefore  is,  How  far  has  suc- 
cess crowned  its  operations  1  The  answer  is,  Just  as 
far  as  those  operations  have  been  carried. 

With  a  large  map  of  Ireland  spread  on  the  table 
before  us,  we  traced  the  extent  of  the  society's  quiet 


100  LETTER    IV. 

work,  its  schools  and  districts,  and  delightful  was  the 
account  given  of  each  attempt,  with  its  accompanying 
Ebenezer.  The  ladies'  auxiliary,  for  supporting  and 
supplying  teachers,  is  rendering  important  service  j 
and  the  little  islands  so  long  neglected  off  the  western 
coast,  are  beginning  to  send  forth  the  voice  of  praise 
The  Achill  mission,  like  a  noble  plant  wholly  of  a 
right  seed,  strikes  deep  root,  and  gathers  strength  from 
the  storms  that  assail  it ;  while  the  hitherto  wild,  law- 
less and  discouraging  region  of  Kerry  is  the  scene  of 
a  work  that  will  ere  long  astonish  and  shame  such 
faint-hearted  doubters  as  the  boldest  of  us  yet  are. 
In  fact  we  are  addressed  as  of  old,  "  Only  believe." 
No  believing  effort  proves  abortive  ;  and  bold  as  the 
assertion  may  appear  I  make  it  deliberately,  that  if  the 
Irish  society  had  means  to  extend  its  labors  wherever 
the  language  is  spoken,  the  most  superstitious,  bigot- 
ed and  hostile  portion  of  the  native  population  would 
stand  foremost  in  exhibiting  the  reverse  of  these  cha- 
racteristics. It  is  remarkable  that  a  far  richer  and 
more  extensive  blessing  attends  the  preaching  of  the 
gospel  in  Irish  among  the  Irish-speaking  Romanists, 
than  the  same  thing  in  English  among  those  who 
speak  the  latter.  The  fact  may  be  difficult  to  account 
for ;  but  it  is  undeniable.  I  will  give  you  here  two 
instances  where  the  priests  artfully  endeavored  to 
bring  English  scripture  to  support  their  false  system, 
but  were  defeated  by  a  reference  to  the  Irish. 

One  of  these  false  prophets,  arguing  with  an  Irish 
reader,  maintained  that  the  word  "mass"  was  to  be 
found  in  the  New  Testament,  and  in  proof  adduced 
the  passage,  "the  whole  mass  is  leavened."  This 
would  have  puzzled  one  who  had  no  learning  of  his 


DUBLIN.  10 1 

own,  and  no  other  language  to  refer. to  ;  but  the  Irish 
Bible  was  consulted,  and  at  once  gave  tne  clear  signi- 
fication of  the  term.  Another  poor  teacher  was  harder 
pressed ;  the  priest  said  to  him,  "  You  ought  not  to 
withdraw  from  the  Roman  church,  the  mother  of  all 
the  churches.  These  Protestant  churches  are  quite 
modern  ;  they  cannot  apply  to  themselves  some  of  the 
most  important  passages  in  the  Bible."  The  teacher 
inquired  which  of  the  promises  the  Protestant  church 
could  not  claim  ;  to  which  the  cunning  priest  replied, 
"'The  Lord  of  hosts  is  with  us' — the  Protestant 
churches  cannot  apply  that."  "  Why  not,  sir  1" 
"  Why,  because  they  do  not  worship  or  know  any- 
thing about  the  host ;  and  therefore  they  have  no  right 
to  apply  to  themselves  that  promise,  '  the  Lord  of  hosts 
is  with  us.'"  Here,  again,  the  simple  unlettered 
countryman  had  an  answer  provided  ;  his  Irish  scrip- 
tures informed  him  that  host  had  another  meaning 
besides  the  conjured  wafer.  You  or  I  might  laugh  at 
such  an  absurd  play  of  words ;  but  when  we  consider 
how  wholly  uninformed,  and  how  beyond  the  reach  of 
such  common  information  these  poor  peasants  are,  the 
wicked  perversions  of  the  priests  assume  a  formida- 
ble character ;  and  the  safeguard  provided  against 
them  a  very  important  one. 

Do  you  remember  the  volumes  in  brickdust-colored 
boarding,  that  you  saw  me  so  busily  pondering  on, 
not  long  ago — Sir  W.  Bentham's  Irish  antiquarian 
researches,  with  the  fac-simile  of  those  elaborately 
illuminated  MSS.,  which  you  rashly  pronounced 
unreadable  by  mortal  man  or  woman  1  These  were 
accurate  representations  of  copies  of  the  gospels,  in 
the  Latin  language  and  the  Irish  character,  preserved 


102  LETTER  IV. 

through  successive  generations  in  some  of  the  first 
among  Irish  families  in  point  of  rank  and  respecta- 
bility. Of  their  authentic  antiquity  there  cannot  exist 
a  rational  doubt ;  and  by  them  is  the  fact  placed 
beyond  dispute,  that  Ireland  possessed  and  cherished 
the  word  of  God  long,  very  long  before  the  corrup- 
tions of  Popery  had  begun  to  taint  even  Rome  itself. 
Is  it  not  marvellous  that  in  spite  of  the  continued 
endeavors  to  root  it  out,  the  same  language  in  which 
the  word  of  salvation  was  first  preached  to  these  inte- 
resting people,  at  the  very  latest,  fifteen  hundred  years 
ago,  should  still  so  prevail  and  be  so  cherished  among 
them,  as  to  render  even  priestly  influence  unavailing  to 
bar  its  access  to  their  ear  and  heart,  when  proclaimed 
again  in  the  same  loved  tongue.  Truly  I  think  we 
may  say  of  the  native  Irish  language  what  we  are 
constrained  to  say  of  the  Irish  Protestant  church — 
that  in  the  face  of  all  assailants  it  seems  to  bear  this 
protecting  warrant,  "  Destroy  it  not  ;  for  a  blessing  is 
in  it.'* 

Do  not  imagine  that  I  have  been  moved  from  my 
former  position,  as  to  the  primary  importance  of  scrip- 
tural schools,  and  the  absolute  necessity  for  a  legal 
provision,  to  rescue  the  people  from  their  present 
degraded  and  desperate  state.  A  new-born  child 
requires  three  things,  air,  nourishment,  and  clothing. 
If  I  say  the  infant  cannot  live,  unless  you  allow  it 
breath  and  covering ;  it  does  not  follow  that  I  sup- 
pose they  will  suffice,  without  the  addition  of  proper 
nutriment.  One  grand  error  in  scheming  for  poor 
Ireland,  is  the  niggardly  hand  with  which  necessaries 
of  different  descriptions  are  dealt  out.  One  projector 
Tecommends  one  thing,   and   his   neighbor   another, 


DUBLIN.  103 

when  both  are  alike  necessary.  See  what  a  goodly 
company  of  kindred  charities  harmoniously  unite  to 
render  the  English  peasantry  what  they  are.  Fair 
wages ;  good  public  instruction,  perfectly  intelligible 
to  him  ;  equal  laws,  which  while  they  protect  the 
poor  man  from  oppression,  also  withhold  him  from 
outrage ;  schools  for  his  children,  hospitals  for  his 
sick,  alms-houses  for  his  aged,  and  a  fair  field,  of  honest 
competition  in  every  branch  of  industry.  Concern- 
ing each  of  these  it  may  be  said,  "  This  ought  ye  to 
do,  and  not  to  leave  the  others  undone,"  with  regard 
to  the  Irish  poor.  Give  them  with  one  hand  the  lamp 
of  truth,  while  with  the  other  you  open  to  them  a 
path  of  tolerable  comfort  and  respectability — you  will 
soon  learn  the  efficacy  of  such  a  proceeding.  It  has 
been  tried  individually,  and  in  communities  too,  with 
complete  success.  I  am  told  that  in  the  north  I  shall 
see  farther  proof  of  this. 

Another  admirable  institution  for  which  I  feel 
warmly  interested,  is  prospering  also : — the  Claremont 
establishment  for  the  deaf  and  dumb.  When  I  say  it 
is  prospering,  I  do  not  mean  that  its  finances  equal 
the  demand  on  its  philanthropic  efforts ;  but  that,  so 
far  as  they  can  be  carried,  ample  success  crowns  them. 
Did  you  ever  hear  the  rise  of  the  Dublin  Deaf  and 
Dumb  Asylum  1  I  have  been  enjoying  a  pleasant  day 
with  my  old  friend  the  benevolent  originator ;  and 
had  the  farther  gratification  of  meeting  at  his  house 
the  object  of  his  single  and  prolific  attempt.  The 
young  man  was  rejoiced  at  again  seeing  me,  and  his 
conversation,  very  rapidly  carried  on  by  means  of  the 
finger  alphabet,  satisfied  me  that  the  labor  of  our 
excellent  friend  had  not  been  in  vain  in  the  Lord. 


104  LETTER  IV. 

Years  ago,  Dr.  Orpen,  in  the  course  of  his  profes- 
sional attendance  on  a  charitable  institution  in  Dublin, 
frequently  remarked  a  most  forlorn  looking  little 
creature,  sad  and  abstracted,  huddled  up  in  the  chim- 
ney corner  ;  inquiring  who  he  was,  he  learned  from 
the  women  around  that  the  boy  was  deaf  and  dumb,  a 
friendless,  helpless  little  outcast.  The  Christian  com- 
passion of  the  doctor  was  deeply  moved :  he  longed  to 
relieve  the  child's  wretchedness,  but  howl  No  institu- 
tion existed  in  Ireland  for  the  relief  of  that  dreadfully 
afflicted  class ;  and  to  impose  on  himself  such  a  bur- 
den, such  a  task,  with  the  mere  possibility  of  succeed- 
ing, was  not  clearly  his  duty.  Still  he  attended  the 
infirmary,  and  still  the  cheerless  apparition  of  poor 
little  Collins  haunted  him  on  his  return  home.  He 
took  courage,  asked  a  blessing  from  on  high,  and 
removed  the  child  to  his  residence.  Long  and  perse- 
veringly  did  this  good  man  labor  in  secret  for  the  im- 
provement of  his  charge,  nor  did  he  fail  in  his  efforts. 
At  the  end  of  a  year,  whether  of  one  or  two  I  am  not 
quite  certain,  he  assembled  a  party  of  gentlemen  at 
the  Kotunda,  related  the  circumstance,  and  exhibited 
his  pupil.  The  progress  made  by  the  little  lad  was 
extraordinary ;  and  when  Dr.  Orpen,  taking  advan- 
tage of  the  emotion  excited  by  the  boy's  appearance 
and  attainments,  pathetically  pleaded  the  cause  of  his 
partners  in  affliction,  with  a  powerful  appeal  to  their 
compassionate  sympathy,  a  contribution  was  raised, 
and  a  society  formed  on  the  spot,  which  so  prospered 
as  to  be  soon  enabled  to  purchase  the  spacious  dwell- 
ing and  grounds  at  Claremont,  and  there  have  many 
deaf  mutes  received  instruction ;  the  number  of 
admissions  being  of  course  regulated  by  the  state  of 


DUBLIN.  105 

their  funds.  I  regret  extremely  not  being  able  to 
visit  it  again  now  ;  many  delightful  hours  I  passed 
there  formerly,  conversing  with  the  children,  and 
their  worthy,  able,  benevolent  master,  Mr.  Humfreys. 
Collins  was  then  head  boy  in  the  school ;  for  Dr.  Or- 
pen  placed  him  there  as  a  pattern  and  encouragement 
for  the  rest.  He  is  now  a  journeyman  printer,  and 
doing  very  well  in  his  business.  It  was  most  touch- 
ing to  witness  his  look  and  manner,  when  I  asked  him, 
did  he  not  love  Dr.  Orpen  1  A  rapid  glance  took  in 
the  whole  domestic  circle,  the  doctor,  his  partner,  and 
their  eight  fine  boys — all  being  additions  to  a  bache- 
lor's establishment  since  we  met, — then  an  upturned 
look  and  clasped  hands  prefaced  the  short  reply,  "1 
do  j"  imparting  to  it  an  eloquence  that  mere  words 
could  not  have  boasted.  It  brought  most  vividly  to 
my  recollection  one  who  was  with  me  when  last!  saw 
Collins;  a  deaf  mute,  now  hearing  and  joining  in  the 
hallelujahs  of  heaven. 

Perhaps  you  will  inquire  of  me  whether  the  Clare- 
mont  institution  is  a  proselyte-making  establish- 
ment. I  cannot  say  that  it  is,  in  itself  ;  but  the  Bible 
is  freely  studied  there,  and  it  rarely,  if  ever,  happens 
that  a  pupil  who  has  been  at  Claremont  will  consent 
to  attend  mass  after  leaving  it.  Nothing  but  the 
notable  plan  of  mutilation  will  prevent  that  book  from 
enlightening  the  youthful  mind.  Despite  of  all  the 
wisdom  of  this  prodigiously  wise  age,  the  entrance  of 
God's  word  will  give  light  and  understanding  to  the 
simple.  "Extracts,"  such  as  the  National  Board  use, 
may  very  well  leave  the  ignorant  soul  where  they 
find  it,  or  wrapped  in  a  deeper  delusion.  The  devil 
knew  how  to  wield  such  a  weapon :  he  took  extracts, 


106  LETTER    TV, 

and  made  a  slight  verbal  alteration  or  two,  as  the 
worthy  translators  have  done  in  their  class-book  ;  and 
then  used  it  to  oppose  the  work,  and  to  grieve  the 
spirit  of  Christ;  but  a  whole  Bible  he  never  would 
venture  to  bring  forward  ;  nor  do  his  agents  at  all 
approve  the  Claremont  plan.  If  they  did,  I  should  be 
tempted  to  doubt  very  much  its  efficacy. 

Another  pleasant  evening  we  passed  at  the  Castle 
—not,  I  assure  you,  with  Lords  Mulgrave  or  Morpeth, 
but  with  that  loyal  old  Protestant  soldier,  Major  Sirr, 
whose  fine  museum  of  antiquities  and  every  descrip? 
tion  of  rarities3  far  exceeded  my  expectation,  highly 
as  it  was  raised.  Among  the  most  interesting  natural 
curiosities,  were  some  exquisite  specimens  of  the 
rocks  in  Achill,  transparent  amethysts  they  seemed, 
of  some  feet  in  circumference.  It  was  sweet  to  think 
that  the  island  which  had  long  been  spiritually 
afflicted,  tossed  with  tempests  and  not  comforted, 
was  now  having  her  stones  laid  with  fair  colors,  and 
her  foundations  with  sapphires.  (Isai.  liv.  11.)  Many 
relics  I  saw  of  the  earliest  days  of  Ireland's  history 
both  martial  and  regal,  some  exquisitely  wrought^ 
others  remarkable  only  for  the  weight  of  the  precious 
metal  that  composed  them.  Nothing,  however,  led 
me  back  so  completely  to  those  olden  days  as  the 
frame  of  an  Irish  war-harp,  such  as  the  minstrels 
bore  to  the  battle-field.  This  was  of  oak,  almost 
black  with  age,  rude,  but  perfect  in  form,  and  about 
two  or  three  feet  high.  I  should  have  liked  to  have 
borrowed  it  for  a  day,  to  muse  over  the  recollections 
that  it  could  not  fail  to  excite.  It  was  to  me  very 
touching  to  see  the  owner  of  these  treasures,  in  the 
enjoyment  of  a   healthful  and  vigorous  ripeness  of 


DUBLIN.  107 

years,  moving  tranquilly  among  his  stores,  pointing 
out  and  explaining,  with  all  the  bland  courtesy  of  a 
better  era  of  manners,  what  was  worthy  of  remark  j 
and  to  remember  through  what  fearful  sruggies  he 
had  passed,  manfully  braving  the  forefront  of  danger, 
in  defence  of  that  very  castle,  and  of  the  Protestant 
faith  and  name,  forty  years  ago.  I  found  the  Major 
keenly  alive  to  the  importance  of  the  Irish  language, 
as  a  means  Of  achieving  what  the  sword  can  nevei4 
effect  among  this  people  ;  and  I  left  the  vice-regal 
edifice,  more  than  ever  convinced  that  Ireland  has 
never  yet  been  conquered,  never  will  be,  till  the  sword 
of  the  Spirit  be  deeply  buried  in  her  bosom. 

At  Bethesda,  on  a  Sunday  morning,  we  had  a 
Valuable  discourse  from  the  Eev.  John  Gregg  )  in 
return  for  which,  I  must  ungratefully  give  him  a 
scolding  in  the  vestry.  I  never  before  saw  him 
exercising  his  gifts  anywhere  but  among  the  native 
Irish,  hundreds  of  whom  I  have  assisted  to  collect 
about  him  in  the  suburbs  of  London,  to  hear  the 
"  story  o'paace"  in  their  own  tongue.  It  made  me 
jealous  on  behalf  of  the  perishing  Irish,  that  one  so 
surpassingly  eloquent  in  that  language  should  even 
for  a  day  wrap  his  talent  in  a  napkin,  and  preach  to  an 
English-speaking  congregation.  I  told  him  so;  and 
obtained  the  only  redress  I  could  get,  a  promise  that 
in  his  circuits  on  the  home  mission  he  would  always 
select  the  most  Irish  district,  and  devote  himself  as 
much  as  possible  to  the  native  race.  I  cannot  bear 
to  see  any  servant  of  God,  possessed  of  that  incal 
culably  precious  gift — the  power  of  addressing  these 
lost  sheep  of  an  ancient  fold,  and  calling  them  to 
return  to  the  good  Shepherd — employed  in  any  other 


108  LETTER   IV. 

work;  and  little  as  the  congregation  of  Bethesda 
might  thank  me,  I  would  silence  for  ever,  if  I  could, 
their  dear  pastor's  English  tongue,  and  lay  him  under 
a  bond  to  speak  Irish  only  to  the  end  of  his  days. 

The  afternoon  was  devoted  to  indulging  my  young 
companion  with  a  visit  to  St.  Patrick's  cathedral,  of 
which  I  speedily  repented :  for  though  the  excellent 
dean  takes  care  to  compel  its  frequenters  to  hear  the 
gospel,  by  giving  the  sermon  before  the  anthem, 
which  is  the  principal  attraction  to  that  service,  no 
power  of  man  can  force  such  an  assemblage  as  I  there 
beheld,  to  assume  even  the  outward  semblance  of 
devotion.  It  was  painful  ;  and  I  know  not  what 
would  tempt  me  there  again,  while  any  other  Protes- 
tant church  is  open  for  public  worship. 

Our  next  destination  is  Westmeath 


LETTER   V. 


COUNTY    WESTMEATH. 

Near  Mullingdr,  Juh 
ThiS  almost  central  spot  of  Ireland,  a  centre  of 
mournful  attraction  to  me,  was  a  principal  object  of 
my  summer  tour.  After  leaving  Dublin,  all  that  lay 
before  me  was  unexplored  ground,  and  every  indivi- 
dual I  could  expect  to  meet,  for  some  time,  a  stranger. 
With  heartfelt  regret  I  bade  adieu  to  my  hospitable 
friends  in  Dublin,  and  commenced  the  journey  towards 
a  beautifully  retired  spot  in  the  heart  of  Westmeath, 
warmly  invited  where  I  was  personally  unknown. 
The  canal  was  chosen,  as  offering  a  speedier  and  much 
more  refreshing  line  of  transit  than  the  dusty  roads. 
Accordingly,  at  nine  in  the  morning,  we  English 
wanderers  stepped  into  the  boat,  with  a  promise  of 
being  met,  a  stage  short  of  Mullingar,  and  conveyed 
to  the  dwelling  of  our  considerate  entertainer.  Many 
things  concurred  to  render  the  moment  of  embarkation 
very  depressing.  You  may  judge  whether  my  spirits 
received  a  cheering  impulse  when  I  discovered  that, 
with  the  exception  of  the  corner  which  I  occupied, 
and  one  over  against  me,  the  long  narrow  cabin  was 
entirely  filled  with  priests,  bound,  as  it  appeared,  for 
Maynooth.  Some  especial  work  had  called  them  to 
Dublin,  I  suppose ;  and  this  goodly  freight  of  eleven 
10 


1  10  LETTER    V. 

was  returning'  to  college.  None  of  them  had  the  ap- 
pearance of  students  ;  all  were  evidently  men  of  some 
standing  in  their  vocation;  and,  prejudice  of  every 
kind  apart,  I  regretted  that  habit  of  studying  counte- 
nances which  has  from  childhood  made  me  a  physiog- 
nomist, in  spite  of  myself.  Whether  some  untoward 
occurrence  had  called  the  darker  passions  into  exer- 
cise, or  whether  an  instinctive  dislike  of  their  com- 
pany occasioned  it,  I  know  not  j  but  looks  more 
ominous  of  ill  I  never  encountered,  than  from  under 
the  slouched  hats  and  bent  brows  of  my  fellow- 
voyagers,  during  the  three  hours  that  I  was  pent  up  in 
their  society.  W.,  preferring  the  pleasant  look-out 
from  the  open  boat,  soon  left  me  to  enjoy  alone  my 
singular  privilege — singular  in  several  respects,  for  1 
had  in  the  portmanteau  at  my  feet  a  great  folio  of 
Foxe's  Acts  and  Monuments,  in  my  pocket  Dr.  New- 
land's  cutting  expose  of  the  antiscriptural  Education 
Board,  and  on  my  lap  the  plants  that  I  had  brought 
from  the  top  of  Vinegar  Hill. 

Fancying  myself  in  the  Holy  Inquisition,  I  could 
not  but  think  how  it  would  fare  with  me  had 
all  these  silent  witnesses  been  produced,  and 
their  testimony  received ;  nor  did  it  require  any 
great  stretch  of  imagination  to  suppose  such  a  junc- 
ture. Had  I  been  a  man,  openly  observing  them  and 
their  country,  asking  information  or  taking  notes, 
I  can  readily  imagine  how  bland,  how  courteous,  ho\* 
frank  and  agreeable  the  gentlemen  around  me  would 
have  become ;  but  a  female  plainly  attired,  accompanied 
only  by  a  school-boy,  and  giving  no  token  of  reveren 
tial  homage  to  "  the  clergy,"  was  not  calculated  to 
induce  any  disguise  on  their  part.     Glances  of  stem 


COUNTY  WESTMEATH  111 

displeasure,  quite  unprovoked,  frequently  crossed  my 
view,  as  I  took  a  peep  towards  the  opposite  windows. 
The  conversation  was  low,  and  much  of  it  in  Irish,  as 
W.,  who  knows  a  little  of  the  language,  informed  me. 
l  cannot  say  that,  with  the  exception  of  one  elderly 
man,  who  looked  mild  and  thoughtful,  and  said  very 
little,  there  was  a  face  that  I  could  have  wished  to 
see  again.  Yet  some  of  them  were  very  handsome 
men,  and  all  had  a  most  gentlemanly  manner  and  de- 
meanour. Each  was  habited  in  black — good  broad- 
cloth it  appeared,  with  a  fresh  gloss  on  it  ;  each  had 
the  distinguishing  badge  of  a  Romish  priest,  the  broad- 
hemmed  collar  of  white  lawn  turned  down,  about  two 
inches  in  depth,  over  the  upper  edge  of  his  black  stock. 
Two  had  clerical  slouched  hats,  and  one  of  these  wore 
the  habit  of  some  monastic  order,  a  coat  rather  loose, 
with  exceedingly  wide  sleeves,  the  cuffs  of  which 
folded  one  over  another  as  he  sat  with  closed  hands. 

I  felt  as  if  under  the  influence  of  an  uneasy  dream : 
I  strove  to  pray,  and  did  pray  for  these  destroyers  of 
their  own  souls,  and  of  the  souls  of  the  poor.  I 
thought  of  our  blessed  Reformers,  every  one  of  whom 
l]ad  been  as  they,  before  the  Hoi}7  Spirit  enlightened 
their  darkness ;  I  thought  of  Nolan  and  others,  actually 
brought  up  among  those  very  individuals,  yet  now 
preaching  the  faith  which  once  they  destroyed.  These 
recollections  encouraged  the  secret  prayer,  but  no 
effort  would  dispel  the  gloom  that  overhung  me  as 
1  realized  the  presence  of  the  very  priests  of  Rome ; 
contrasting  as  I  could  not  help  doing,  their  expensive 
attire,  and  the  look  alike  of  high  feeding  and  high- 
mindedness,  with  the  penury,  the  privations,  the  deep 
depression,     to    which    their     wicked    machinations 


112  LETTER  V. 

* 

tions  had  reduced  the  dear  servants  of  Christ,  the 
faithful,  devoted  ministers  of  the  Irish  Church.  Had 
they  assumed  an  aspect  less  dark  and  haughty,  I 
might  not  have  felt  these  impressions  with  equal 
force  ;  but  the  reality  of  the  case  could  not  have  been, 
affected  by  any  externals ;  and  miserably  uncomfort- 
able as  it  made  me,  I  rejoiced  that  it  was  not  my  lot 
to  be  imposed  on  by  the  lamb's  face,  so  easily  assumed 
at  the  dragon's  will.  Knowing  as  I  do  what  Popery 
is,  why  should  I  desire  to  behold  her  masked  1 

When  the  boat  approached  Maynooth,  a  general 
preparation  for  paying  the  fares  was  made.  Each 
drew  forth  his  money,  to  be  in  readiness  for  the  ex- 
pected demand.  The  silver  counted  out,  and  gathered 
together  on  the  narrow  table,  was  far  from  diverting 
my  thoughts  into  a  pleasanter  channel :  they  sickened 
with  two-fold  pain,  as  I  involuntarily  reverted  to  the 
source  of  that  income.  Oh,  what  a  tissue  of  abomi- 
nations had  been  spread  before  those  men  in  the  con- 
fessional !  How  slightly,  how  treacherously,  had  the 
desperate  hurt  of  the  daughter  of  their  people  been 
healed  by  the  deceptive  "  Go  in  peace."*  I  thought 
of  the  poor,  despised  immortals,  for  whose  soul  no 
man  cares — of  the  poverty-stricken  creature  who,  % 
having  with  difficulty  contrived  to  scrape  together  the 
stipulated  sum,  though  but  of  a  few  pence,  goes  and 
barters  it  for  a  lie  that  leaves  his  former  sins  unatoned 
for,  unrepented  of,  while  it  encourages  him  to  the 
commission  of  more.     I  seemed  more  distinctly  than 

*  The  words  with  which  the  Romish  priest  dismisses  the  so- 
called  penitent,  who  has  confessed  his  sins,  paid  his  dues,  and  de- 
parts to  commence  a  new  score. 


COUNTY    WESTMEATH.  113 

I 

ever  to  see  that  fearful  item  in  the  catalogue  of  great 
Babylor^s  merchandize  (Rev.  xviii.  13),  "and  souls 
of  men  j'1  and  yet  again  I  prayed  that  I  never  might 
fee  permitted  to  fall  into  the  snare  of  seeming  to  con- 
sent to,  or  to  connive  at,  or  to  tolerate,  any  scheme 
whatever  that  would  in  its  operation  leave  a  single 
soul  for  a  single  day  under  the  power  of  that  mystery 
of  iniquity  whereof  the  men  around  me  were  the 
sworn,  the  ucttve  agents. 

A  smart  Mr,  as  we  touched  the  pier,  gave  the  wel- 
come F.iguai  of  release.  1  sat  next  the  entrance,  and 
as  they  severally  brushed  past  me,  and  stooped  to 
avail  t/iewyy elves  of  the  low,  narrow  doorway,  I  did 
indeed  b/fithe  over  each  a  prayer  from  my  inmost 
!ieariT  that  God  would  convert  him  from  the  deadly 
irro:  A  his  way.  I  felt  a  pang,  too,  of  remorse  for 
not  living  attempted  to  win  them  to  converse  on  a 
Mi'dV»t  that  might  have  laid  the  foundation  of  an  an- 
swer to  that  prayer;  but,  all  things  considered,  it  was 
really  not  possible.  At  the  same  time  the  problem 
appeared  more  inexplicable  than  ever,  how  men  of 
learning  both  human  and  divine,  and  in  other  instances 
evidently  desiring  to  advance  the  Redeemer's  king- 
dom, could  pass  hours  on  the  road,  yea,  within  the 
very  walls  of  that  Maynooth,  and  carefully  avoid  say- 
ing a  word  that  might  tend  to  the  salvation  of  its  de- 
luded, guilty  inmates ;  and  even  bargain  with  a  more 
zealous  companion  for  a  silence  that  was  pain,  grief, 
and  conscious  guilt  to  his  spirit.  From  all  false  cha- 
rity and  expediency-loving  unfaithfulness,  good  Lord 
deliver  me  ! 

Disburdened  of  our  priestly  freight,  the  boat  sped 
lightly  on.  I  just  sent  a  parting  glance  after  them, 
10* 


114t  LETTER   V. 

as  they  wound,  a  long  black  line,  upon  the  innocent 
green  sod  towards  the  great  curse  of  Ireland,  the  foul 
blot  of  England's  unrighteous  legislation — Maynooth : 
then,  without  being  tempted  even  to  look  upon  its 
outline,  I  turned  to  the  opposite  bank,  and  breathed 
freely.  We  were  passing  through  a  flat  country,  an 
extent  of  bog  frequently  enclosing  us  on  either  hand, 
no  otherwise  diversified  than  by  the  clamps,  or  as 
you  would  call  them,  stacks  of  black  turf,  carefully 
piled  up  to  dry  and  harden  in  the  sun ;  and  by  the 
abodes  of  the  turf-cutters,  which  being  more  of  exca- 
vations than  buildings,  and  roofed  over  with  luxuriant 
vegetation,  presented  the  appearance  of  hillocks,  ra- 
ther than  of  human  habitations.  I  was  not,  however, 
travelling  in  search  of  the  picturesque,  though,  had  1 
been  so,  there  was  a  charm  in  the  novelty,  the  lone- 
someness,  the  interminable  extent,  to  reconcile  me  to 
that  ocean  of  swarthy  moor,  whence  in  the  far  dis- 
tance, the  peak  of  some  lofty  mountain  seemed  to 
rise,  like  a  rock  amid  the  waves.  But  other  associa- 
tions occupied  my  mind  :  to  me,  the  dark  desert  was 
a  white  field  under  the  harvest.  I  knew  that,  unat- 
tractive as  is  its  aspect,  peat  soil  is  one  of  the  richest 
loams  ;  for  the  most  luxuriant  garden  I  had  ever  pos- 
sessed was  a  reclaimed  acre  of  that  very  bog.  Yet 
had  a  stranger  totally  unacquainted  with  its  properties 
been  told  that  the  dreary  monotonous  waste  around 
him  would  afford  a  more  promising  field  for  agricultural 
enterprise  than  any  other  land  that  we  had  yet  looked 
upon,  he  would  probably  have  returned  an  incredu- 
lous smile.  Even  so,  I  thought,  it  is  with  regard  to 
the  forlorn,  the  squalid,  the  half-civilized  objects 
now  moving  upon  its  surface.     Prejudice,  building  on 


COUNTY    WESTMEATH.  115 

mere  externals  of  character  and  condition,  repels  the 
plea  that  would  encourage  to  a  nobler  experiment 
than  that  of  reclaiming  bog-land.  Not  only  among 
the  gentry  of  England,  but  among  those  of  Ireland 
too,  does  this  erroneous  impression  prevail.  The 
attempt  has  never  been  fairly  made  ;  therefore  it  is 
concluded  to  be  hopeless.  The  person  who,  twenty 
years  ago,  should  have  asserted  that  it  was  practica- 
ble to  lay  down  an  iron  road  from  London  to  Liver- 
pool, and  to  travel  the  distance  in  eight  hours,  without 
animal  assistance,  would  not  have  been  regarded  as  a 
more  chimerical  projector  than  he  is  who  says  that 
the  turbulent  Irish  papist,  employed  in  cutting  turf 
from  a  bog,  may  himself  be  as  effectually  reclaimed, 
improved,  and  rendered  fruitful  in  all  good  things  as 
the  bog  itself  frequently  is.  Yet  the  transit  to  Liver- 
pool, under  the  circumstances  mentioned,  is  no  longer 
matter  of  conjecture  or  experiment.  Alas,  that  such 
daring  enterprise,  such  unwearied  labor,  such  a  pro- 
digality of  outlay  should  be  eagerly  brought  to  bear 
on  a  matter  of  commercial  improvement  and  indivi< 
dual  convenience,  while  all  are  withheld  from  the 
nobler  essay  of  conferring  present  happiness  and  open* 
ing  the  gate  of  eternal  life  to  the  vast  population  of 
this  distracted,  guilty  land  !  To  drain  away  the  black 
stagnations  of  error  and  bigotry,  to  break  up  the  stub- 
born spirit  beneath  the  gospel  plough,  to  sow  the 
seed  of  divine  truth,  and  lay  down  the  enclosures  of 
equitable  restraint,  and  build  the  shelter  that  poverty 
and  feebleness  require — is  all  this  more  impracticable 
than  it  was  to  bid  yonder  little  village  where  they  are 
waiting  with  fresh  horses  for  our  boat,  rise  and  flour 
ish  on  a  tract  of  this  extensive  bog  ]     It  is  alike  a 


11G  LETTER   V. 

libel  on  human  nature  and  an  insult  to  the  most  high 
God  to  assert  it. 

Such  were  my  imaginings  as  I  leaned  upon  the 
open  window,  and  met  the  smiles  of  innumerable 
lovely  flowers  that  overhung1  either  edge  of  the  canal. 
Occasionally  a  party  of  children  whose  bright  merry 
looks  contrasted  strangely  with  the  filthy  tatters  that 
scarcely  veiled  their  light  forms,  would  start  off  in  a 
race  along  the  side,  encouraged  by  the  halfpence  that 
we  flung  in  their  path.  One  little  fellow,  apparently 
not  five  years  old,  exhibited  a  striking  specimen  of 
Irish  energy  and  resolution,  and  reaped  a  proportion- 
able reward.  It  was  pleasant  to  think  that  the  few 
pence  so  sportively  earned  by  the  poor  children 
would  help  to  eke  out  the  wretched  family  meal.  I 
longed  to  build  a  school  on  the  boo-,  though  it  had 

D  CD  7  O 

been  but  by  hollowing  out  a  clamp  of  turf,  and  to 
gather  these  dear  little  lambs,  and  lead  them  to  Jesus. 
My  heart  perhaps  expanded  more  widely  from  the 
painful  contraction  that  it  had  suffered  during  the 
earlier  part  of  the  day,  retaining  too  the  vivid  im- 
pression of  those  hours.  Certes,  whatever  else  my 
plan  of  improvement  might  leave  on  the  bog,  May- 
nooth  should  be  fairly  drained  out  of  it. 

We  were,  of  course,  ascending  from  the  level  of 
the  sea,  and  at  every  lock  we  had  to  rise.  I  was  in 
the  mood  to  take  everything  in  the  way  of  an  illus- 
tration, and  the  beautiful,  imposing  process  by  which 
the  water  obtains  its  level,  under  such  circumstances 
furnished  another  type.  The  partition  which  sepa- 
rates the  two  classes  in  this  country  is  altogether  an 
artificial,  an  unnatural  one.  It  raises  the  one  too 
high,  and  depresses  the  other  too  low.     Remove  the 


COUNTY    WESTMEATH.  ]  17 

foreign  influence,  by  first  breaking  its  compact  force 
and  then  fairly  turning  it  away,  and  though  you  may 
provoke  a  terrible  splashing,  with  no  small  noise  and 
commotion,  and  a  few  thumps,  perhaps,  against  the 
wall,  you  will  soon  be  overpaid  for  your  trouble  and 
annoyance  by  the  delightfully  calm  and  united  flow 
of  the  level  stream.  This,  this  is  the  true  "  meeting 
of  the  waters." 

When  the  storms  that  we  feel  in  this  rude  world  should  cease, 
And  our  hearts  like  these  waters  flow  mingled  in  peace. 

God  grant  it !  I  will  never  cease  praying  for  it  while 
I  live ;  nor  ever  cease  hoping  while  I  can  pray. 
Take  away  Popery,  and  Ireland  as  she  ought  to  be 
will  stand  out  in  all  the  beauty  that  is  now  shrouded 
in  corruption  ;  all  the  capabilities  that  are  now  per- 
verted to  the  very  worst  purposes.  Bring  to  the 
Lord  the  offering  of  this  rescued  people:  and  see 
whether  he  would  not  open  the  windows  of  heaven 
and  pour  us  out  a  blessing  that  there  should  not  be 
room  enough  to  receive  it.* 

The  higher  we  advanced,  the  more  striking  was 
the  aspect  of  the  water.  I  looked  down,  and  traced 
to  their  very  roots  the  long  green  stalks  of  the 
aquatic  plants  that  gave  to  its  surface  the  appearance 
of  a  field  rather  than  that  of  a  stream,  except  where 
the  constant  passage  of  the  boats  kept  a  clear  track 
open.  The  water  was  not  merely  transparent,  it 
possessed  a  gleam  resembling  that  of  topaz.  The 
sunshine  glanced  back  from  its  bed  with  a  softened 
lustre  ;  and  the  tinge  must  have  been  from  that  re- 
flection, since  the  liquid   itself   is    colorless    as  th© 

♦Malachi  lii.  10. 


118  LETTER    V. 

purest  crystal.  Do  you  know  whence  that  water 
comes  ]  From  Lough  Ouel,  the  spot  that  I  so  long-, 
yet  dread,  to  visit ;  the  scene  of  the  heaviest  calamity 
that  ever  wrung  my  bosom  ;  where  the  sun  that  glad- 
dened my  early  years,  and  brightened  a  darker  period 
of  existence,  went  down  at  noon.  The  hundred 
springs  of  Lough  Ouel  supply  the  waters  that  cover 
1600  acres  where  they  rise,  forming  the  lake  ;  and 
from  them  alone  is  derived  the  fine  stream  that  car- 
ries the  traffic  of  Westmeath  to  Dublin. 

The  bridge  of  Downs,  where  we  found  the  carriage 
waiting  for  us,  is  only  a  landing-place.  Our  way 
then  lay  across  a  tract  of  bog,  sufficiently  dreary, 
whence  it  issued  on  pretty  cross  roads;  and  these 
led  us  to  one  of  the  finest  demesnes  possible.  Lands 
reclaimed,  planted,  cultivated,  and  sprinkled  with 
decent  cabins,  told  well  for  the  proprietor  of  the  soil; 
a  yet  fairer  testimony  was  afforded  when  on  ap- 
proaching the  park-gate  a  whole  swarm  of  healthy, 
well-clad  children  issued  from  the  grounds.  The 
school-house  I  did  not  see  ;  but  the  happy  intelligent 
looks  of  the  little  ones,  among  whom  were  mere 
infants,  gave  promise  of  a  rich  treat  in  store  for  me, 
— nor  was  I  disappointed.  The  mansion  is  spacious ; 
a  fine  entrance  hall  always  impresses  me  in  favor  of 
a  house  ;  and  this  was  further  beautified  by  the  inex 
pressible  charm  of  an  Irish  welcome.  Even  just 
within  the  door  I  was  met  by  the  lady  of  this  fine 
estate,  who  with  all  the  buoyancy  of  manner  that  be- 
speaks the  active  energy  of  a  mind  for  many  years 
devoted  to  works  of  benevolent  usefulness,  and  all 
the  graceful  cordiality  that  wins  at  once  affection 
and  respect,  received  me  not  with  the  formal  courtesy 


COUNTY    WESTMEATH.  119 

due  to  a  stranger  guest,  but  with  the  warm  embrace 
of  maternal  affection  best  calculated  to  soothe  a  spirit 
at  that  time  unavoidably  wounded.  For  I  ought  to 
tell  you,  as  an  instance  of  the  feeling  so  honorable  to 
the  Irish  character,  that  I  was  invited  to  make  a  stay 
in  this  house  expressly  because  of  its  proximity  to 
Mullingar,  and  the  facilities  enjoyed  by  its  kind  owner 
for  gratifying  my  wish  to  explore  the  neighborhood. 
If  any  person  does  not  love  the  Irish  as  I  do,  it  is 
simply  and  solely  because  he  does  not  know  the  Irish 
as  I  do. 

Mrs.  S.  has  taken  care  to  fortify  her   htfuse,  living 
as  she  does  in  the  heart  of  a  very  disturbed  country. 
If  you  ask  for  a  sketch  of  her  fortifications,  it  is  soon 
given,  without  the  aid  of  pencil   or   compasses.     Her 
body-guard  is  composed  of  a  large  number   of  those 
same  turbulent  Paddies,  constantly  engaged  by   day 
in  various  kinds  of  labor,  on  fair  wages,  whose  cab- 
ins are  often  brightened  and  their  hearts  cheered  by 
her    benevolent    attentions.     Near   the    entrance  by 
which  an  assailing  party  would   probably  approach, 
are  three  fortresses  in  the  shape  of  exceedingly  ele- 
gant little  cottages,  mantled  with  roses  and  honey- 
suckle, and  garrisoned  with    a  formidable    troop   in 
three  divisions,  of  which,  the  most  effective,  I  should 
think,  comprises  warriors  and  amazons  between  the 
ages  of  three  and  eight  years.     Nothing  could  exceed 
the  spirit  and  celerity  with  which    this  respectable 
corps  went  through  their  exercises,  under  the  com- 
mand of  their  smiling  captain,  Miss  S.,  and  the  war- 
song  which  they  lustily  chanted  at  the  pitch  of  their 
voices,  from  the  pages  of  Watts,  would  at  least   have 
daunted  their  fathers  and  elder  brothers  from  prose- 


120  LETTER    V. 

r.uting  any  hostile  design.  The  other  detachments 
were  formed  of  older  boys  and  girls,  most  of  them 
promoted  in  course  of  service  from  the  light  infantry 
battalion. 

These  schools  were  of  many  years  standing  ;  see 
ing  the  Bible  in  general  and  evidently  constant  use,  I 
asked  Mrs.  S.  how  the  priest  liked  her  plan.  She 
replied,  smiling^  Not  much  she  believed,*  but  so  long 
as  the  parents  and  children  were  agreed  as  to  their 
coming,  she  made  no.  further  inquiry.  Jn  fact,  the 
greater  number  of  active  young  laborers  on  the  pro- 
perty were  educated  by  her  •  and  the  bare  idea  of  any 
advantage  being  taken  of  the  lonely  situation  of  the 
house,  and  the  very  small  proportion  of  male  inhabit- 
ants now  occupying  it,  excites  a  laugh  of  playful 
derision.  Mindful  of  my  adventure  at  Templeshanbo, 
I  requested  to  be  introduced  to  the  watch  dogs  ;  and 
was  gratified  by  being  allowed  to  pat  a  most  venerable 
specimen  of  a  superanuated  Dane,  toothless,  and  just 
able  to  obey  the  kind  summons  that  called  him  to  the 
hall  door.  "But  surely  you  have  others,"  said  I, 
after  duly  noticing  the  good-tempered  animal.  "  No," 
replied  Miss  S.  "  Mamma  is  not  fond  of  pet  dogs." 
"But  for  protection" — "Against  what?  we  have 
nothing  to  be  afraid  of  here."  In  fact,  when  crossing 
a  long  corridor  late  that  night,  to  leave  a  message 
with  W.,  I  found  the  windows  entirely  unfastened,  no 
shutters  closed,  nor  even  a  sash  bolted  down,  in  a 
place  where  I  could  myself  have  scaled  them,  without 
the  help  of  a  ladder,  by  means  of  the  portico.  The 
circumstance  brought  home  to  my  mind  the  peculi- 
arities of  my  dear  Wexford  friends'  situation.  As 
yet,  open  war  is  not  declared  against  the  landlords 


COUNTY    WESTMEATH.  121 

but  the  Protestant  clergy  are  doomed  to  destruction. 
No  extent  of  benevolence,  no  claim  on  the  gratitude 
of  their  priest-led  neighbors,  can  obtain  for  them 
remission  of  that  deadly  sin,  the  preaching  of  the  gos- 
pel of  Christ.  A  restraining  hand  is  indeed  laid  on 
the  fierceness  of  man's  wrath,  and  the  blessed  work 
of  giving  scriptural  instruction  to  the  children  is  no 
doubt  a  powerful  means,  overruled  for  their  defence  : 
but  the  rrienace  is  perpetually  conveyed,  the  sanguin- 
ary intimation  given,  and  hostile  demonstrations 
made,  for  the  avowed  purpose  of  silencing  and  expel- 
ling all  preachers  of  righteousness. 

I  must  not  here  say  too  much  of  what  is  exclusively 
personal.     I  have  visited  the  two  spots,  the  lake  and 
the    church-yard,    and    have    gathered    from    many 
sources  all  the  sad  particulars  that  I  was  in  quest  of. 
I  could  not  have  believed  that  after  a  lapse  of  nine 
years,  an  event  so  unhappily  common  as  a  drowning 
on  that  most  fatal,  most  lovely  lake  could  be  remem- 
bered, and  spoken  of  with  such  vivid  interest,  by  all 
classes.     Yet  so   it   is.     I  have,  as  an   unconcerned 
stranger,    introduced   the    subject    while    purchasing 
articles  in  the  shops  of  the  neat  little  town,  and  have 
invariably  been  told    some  touching  incidents    con- 
nected with  the  tale,  or  witnessed  some  burst  of  feel- 
ing, some  simple  but  eloquent  testimony  to  the  love 
that  he  never  failed  to  attract  during  his  life,  and  the 
heart-felt  sorrow  excited  by  the  sad  spectacle,  that  in 
all  the  solemn  pomp  of  military  magnificence  wound 
its   way    through   these    streets    to   yonder    burying 
ground.     It   seems  as  though  the  parting  shot   still 
reverberated  through  their  habitations  ;   so  very  dis- 
tinct is  their  recollection  of  it  all.     And  when  the  fact 
11 


122  LETTER    V. 

was  betrayed,  that  no  uninterested  stranger  was  before 
them,  the  sympathy  expressed  assumed  a  character 
of  tenderness  that  did  not  surprise,  though  it  sweetly 
soothed  me :  for  they  are  Irish. 

Here  I  must  give  you  an  instance  illustrative  of  the 
spontaneous  expression  of  real,  practical  sympathy, 
which  occurred  at  the  time.  When  the  event  was 
witnessed  from  the  shore,  when  the  little  boat  upset, 
and  the  suffocating  waters  received  their  prey,  a  boy 
was  dispatched  for  instant  medical  succor.  On  the 
road  he  was  met  by  a  gentleman  driving  a  gig,  who 
demanded  the  cause  of  his  frantic  haste,  to  expedite 
which  he  had  thrown  off  his  jacket.  "  Dont  stop 
me,"  cried  the  lad,  "an  officer  is  drowning  in  the  lake, 
I  am  going  for  a  doctor."  The  gentleman  sprang 
from  his  gig,  released  the  horse  in  a  moment  from 
the  heavier  part  of  the  harness,  and  seizing  the  boy, 
threw  him  across  the  animal,  exclaiming,  "  Mount, 
mount  and  gallop."  He  was  obeyed,  and  remained 
by  his  gig  in  the  road  until  the  return  of  the  stranger 
to  whom  he  had  thus  nobly  entrusted  a  valuable  horse, 
in  the  pure  impulse  of  a  benevolent  and  compassionate 
heart. 

Lough  Ouel  is  a  lovely  murderer.  The  golden 
gleam  that  struck  me  in  the  canal,  is  here  in  double 
beauty:  and  such  is  the  exquisite  purity  of  the  water, 
such  the  pavement  of  pebbles  beneath,  that  I  was 
assured  the  depth  often  feet  made  no  perceptible  dif- 
ference from  that  of  two,  where  I  stood.  Even  the 
disturbance  of  the  conflict  with  the  king  of  terrors 
did  not  obscure  the  crystal  beauty  of  the  element : 
the  man  who,  alas  too  late  !  drew  him  to  the  surface, 
told  me  this:  and  many  a  corroborative  voice  con- 


COUNTY  WESTMEATH.  123 

firmed  it.  Strange,  that  from  so  many  dreadful  bat- 
tle-fields he  should  have  come  forth,  a  conqueror  and 
unhurt,  to  fall  at  last  under  the  destroying  power  of 
an  element  so  soft  and  sweet  as  is  the  water  of  this 
lake,  surrounded  by  all  that  convey  to  the  mind  an 
image  of  perfect  tranquillity  and  repose.  Lough  Ouel 
is  three  miles  in  length,  and  in  breadth  about  one. 
Its  gently  undulating  outline  leads  the  eye  to  banks 
that  rise  with  a  gradual  swell,  slightly  wooded.  There 
are  several  little  islands  rising  from  the  water  of  an 
emerald  green,  and  crested  with  tall  feathery  young 
trees.  I  marked  them  well :  for  by  their  bearings  I 
was  directed  to  trace  the  precise  spot.  A  young  pea- 
sant, who  as  a  boy  had  witnessed  the  event,  most 
kindly  offered  to  row  me  to  it ;  but  I  could  not  have 
borne  that.  It  was  enough  to  stand  upon  the  very- 
place  where  the  dear  lifeless  body  was  landed,  and  to 
look  out  and  to  bless  God  for  his  restraining  grace. 
I  had  always  dreaded  the  prevalence  of  bitterly  rebel- 
lious feelings,  whenever  I  should  be  permitted  to  visit 
that  scene  ;  but  never  was  my  spirit  more  completely 
bowed  in  resignation,  submission,  and  a  soothing 
conviction  that  it  was  well.  The  beautiful  Lough, 
against  which  I  had  cherished  so  deep  an  enmity, 
looked  like  a  friend  that  had  gently  conveyed  him  to 
his  Father's  house  :  it  reflected  the  face  of  heaven  on 
its  bosom,  and  spoke  sweet  peace  to  my  mind.  Before 
leaving  it,  I  dipped  my  hand,  and  tasted  its  waters ; 
they  were  sweet  and  refreshing  as  the  purest  springs 
could  make  them.  It  was  a  token  of  reconciliation  : 
I  felt  it  so,  and  departed  in  peace. 

The  church-yard  was    a   sorer   trial;   and  it  was 
encountered  first.     Yet  there,  too,  alleviations  were 


124  LETTER    V. 

found  singularly  chiming  in  with  the  peculiar  trains 
of  thought  that  belong  to  his  memory. 

He  had  been  a  soldier  from  his  boyhood,  and  died 
jn  the  midst  of  his  routine  of  military  duty.  It  hap- 
pened that  on  the  morning  of  my  sorrowful  visit,  a 
soldier's  wedding  occasioned  the  church  to  be  opened, 
and  while  struggling  with  the  first  intolerable  agony 
that  almost  prostrated  me  on  the  grave,  I  was  joined 
by  the  good  clergyman  who  buried  him,  and  after- 
wards by  the  sexton.  The  latter  told  me  that  being 
himself  an  old  soldier,  he  had  taken  care  to  lay  all  the 
military  whom  he  had  buried  in  a  close  file;  so  that 
no  others  but  officers  and  their  families  were  there; 
and  what  touched  my  feelings  more  nearly,  the  graves 
could  not  be  broken  up  while  the  church  stood  where 
it  does.  Another  circumstance  you  will  understand, 
if  you  remember  how  peculiarly  I  have  from  infancy 
associated  the  sweet  flower  of  May  with  hirn,  who 
was  born  in  the  middle  of  that  month.  The  church- 
yard of  Mullingar  is,  in  one  part,  a  thicket  of  haw- 
thorn trees ;  and  every  summer  gust  during  their 
show,  must  strew  his  resting-place  with  the  blossoms. 
These  are  trifling  matters,  but  they  had  their  effect ; 
and  I  am  not  afraid  to  bless  God  for  all  that  helped 
me  to  trace  a  drop  of  honey  in  that  very  hitter  cup. 
I  spoke  long  and  earnestly  to  all  who  had  any  hand  in 
the  closing  scenes,  particularly  to  the  old  sexton,  and 
to  those  whose  fruitless  efforts  on  the  lake  I  could  so 
well  appreciate.  God  grant  that  none  of  those  words 
may  ever  rise  up  in  the  judgment  against  them! 

With  the  true  delicacy  that  enhances  every  act  of 
kindness  here  conferred,  I  was  allowed  to  enjoy  the 
sad  satisfaction  of  this  visit  unaccompanied,  save  by 


COILNTY    WESTMEATH.  125 

one  who  had  no  difficulty  in  recalling  and  pointing  out 
to  me  many  things  that  had  made  a  deeper  impression 
on  his  then  infant  mind,  from  the  awful  close  of  his 
sojourn  here,  the  sudden  departure  of  the  widow  and 
the  fatherless  from  a  place  where  they  had  passed  so 
many  joyous  hours,  and  anticipated  many  more.  A 
carriage  was  placed  at  my  command  for  the  day,  and 
it  was  with  no  small  thankfulness  that  I  had  to  ac- 
knowledge the  refreshment  afforded  by  visits  to  the 
families  of  a  truly  pious  officer,  and  a  devoted  clergy- 
man, both  personally  strangers  until  then:  both  eager 
to  pour  the  sweetest  balm  of  Christian  sympathy  into 
the  re-opened  wounds  that  will  never  fully  close  until 
the  spirit  be  unclothed  of  its  earthly  tabernacle. 
How  precious  are  such  palm-trees  and  wells  in  the 
desert ! 

Returning    to  my  dear  kind  friends  at  G ,  I 

was  told  that  the  next  morning  must  see  us  on  an  ex- 
cursion to  the  banks  of  Lough  Belvidere  ;  and  thither 
we  went  in  the  phaeton,  through  shady  little  cross- 
roads, terminating  at  length  in  a  most  noble  demesne, 
through  which  we  drove  to  one  of  those  stately  old- 
fashioned  mansions,  which,  particularly  when,  as  in 
this  instance,  they  are  in  a  disfurnished  dilapidated 
state,  irresistibly  lead  back  the  mind  to  the  olden 
times,  and  throw  around  it  a  sort  of  spell  dissimilar 
from  every  other  charm.  Ascending  a  wide  flight  of 
steps,  we  found  ourselves  in  a  spacious  hall,  with  lib- 
erty to  wander  into  the  rooms  that  on  all  sides  lay 
open  to  our  view.  The  estate  has  recently  been  pur- 
chased by  a  wealthy  and  titled  gentleman,  who  is  about 
to  do  ample  justice  to  its  long  neglected  beauties.  A 
man  of  business-like  appearance  was  taking  a  survey 
11* 


126  LETTER    V. 

of  the  dwelling;  and  at  his  elbow  was  a  Romish 
priest  of  most  rough  and  unprepossessing  aspect.  Go 
where  we  would,  we  were  sure  to  find  these  two  en- 
gaged in  earnest  conversation ;  and  there  seemed 
some  fatality  in  our  continually  blundering  into  what 
ever  apartment  they  had  taken  possession  of.  It  was 
as  though  I  had  been  doomed  never  to  enjoy  anything 
Irish,  without  having  Ireland's  evil  genius  perpetu- 
ally before  me,  to  throvy  a  darkening  shadow  on  what 
is  so  lovely  and  fair. 

Our  object  in  entering  the  house  was  to  survey  the 
beautiful  prospect  from  the  various  windows.  This  is 
a  splendid  lake,  much  larger  than  Lough  Ouel,  and  is 
remarkable  for  the  constant  swell  that  even  in  the 
calmest  weather  appears  upon  its  waters.  The  banks 
in  most  parts  are  steep,  richly  wooded,  and  in  some 
places  even  presenting  headlands  and  promontories  of 
rock.  It  is  indeed  a  magnificent  piece  of  water,  and 
the  neglected  state  of  the  extensive  grounds  and 
house  long  uninhabited,  adds  a  charm  to  what  is  in 
itself  so  lovely.  The  recommendation  of  wildness, 
however,  will  soon  give  place  to  that  of  improved 
culture,  under  the  direction  of  its  present  proprietor; 
leaving  me  to  rejoice  that  I  beheld  it  as  it  now  is. 

Quitting  this  enchanting  spot,  we  proceeded  to  the 
adjoining  territory.  Here  a  noble  gateway  excluded 
instead  of  admitting  us.  We  were  obliged  to  leave 
the  carriage  outside,  and  to  scramble  over  heaps  of 
stones,  the  fragments  of  its  original  decorations,  and 
to  make  our  way  through  a  thicket,  overtopped  by 
huo-e  trees,  until  we  reached  a  smaller,  but  more  im- 
posingly  situated  house.  It  stands  perched  on  the 
crest  of  a  hill,  which,  even  from  the  hall  door,  sweeps 


COUNTY    WESTMEATH.  127 

down  by  a  most  rapid  descent  to  the  water's  edge. 
This  intervening  declivity  presents  the  appearance  of 
a  very  fine  lawn ;  and  on  the  right  hand  side  lies  a 
garden  at  a  great  depth  below.  If  these  two  seats, 
Belvidere  and  Rochefort,  lay  open  to  each  other's 
view,  as  naturally  they  would  do,  the  prospect  from 
either  would  rival  anything  I  have  yet  seen  of  pictu- 
resque and  varied  beauty  ;  but  alas !  a  barrier  exists, 
not  so  displeasing  to  the  eye  as  distressing  to  the 
mind.  Two  brothers,  it  seems,  owned  the  estates,  I 
know  not  how  long  since  ;  who  in  the  unnatural  war- 
fare of  a  fierce  litigious  contest,  became  so  hardened 
in  enmity  that  each  impaired  the  beauty  of  his  own 
portion  by  endeavoring  as  much  as  possible  to  inter- 
rupt and  mar  the  other's  view.  A  range  of  stabling, 
so  built  as  to  present  the  aspect  of  a  venerable  ruin 
on  the  owner's  side,  formed  a  great  eye-sore  to  the 
brother :  and  the  various  schemes  of  retaliation  de- 
vised by  these  unhappy  combatants,  for  mutual  annoy- 
ance, have  effected  all  that  man  can  do  to  impair  the 
work  of  God.  The  property  is  now  in  other  hands  j 
and  we  may  hope  to  see  these  humiliating  monuments 
of  wrath  and  strife  removed.  Of  all  the  strange  things 
in  this  perplexing  world  nothing  appears  to  me  more 
unaccountable  than  that  there  should  be  a  lack  of  love 
between  brothers  and  sisters.  My  thoughts  hovered 
more  fondly  than  ever  around  the  scene  of  yester- 
day's pilgrimage  ;  and  once  more  I  blessed  the  Lord 
that  from  the  cradle  to  that  grave  no  root  of  bitter- 
ness  had  sprung  up  to  alloy  the  sweets  of  fraternal 
affection  and  confidence,  or  that  oneness  of  interest 
and  feeling  that  could  enjoy  no  unshared  prosperity, 
or  allow  any  unparticipated  grief. 


128  LETTER    V. 

Our  homeward  drive  showed  me  to  greater  advan- 
tage the  fine  grounds  encompassing  this  mansion. 
Fifty-two  acres  of  rich  land  are  laid  out  in  groves, 
gardens,  lawns,  and  a  miniature  lake,  fringed  with 
stately  trees.  The  most  singular  feature  01  the  place, 
and  to  me  perhaps  the  most  attractive,  is  what  they 
call  the  grass  garden.  It  is  a  long  slip  of  land,  lying 
beside  the  pretty  stream  that  supplies  the  afore- 
said pretty  lake,  covered  with  that  rich  verdure 
in  which  the  emerald  isle  proudly  defies  competition: 
saving  that  a  multitude  of  little  beds  are  cut  out 
in  various  directions,  and  so  arranged  that  the  choic- 
est, loveliest,  most  fragrant  flowers  seem  to  grow  up 
from  the  very  grass  itself ;  with  a  perfect  grove  of 
dark  trees  and  aromatic  shrubs  overhanging  it  on 
one  side,  while  on  the  other  ripples  the  stream,  be- 
yond which  rises  another  grove;  the  grass  garden  is 
a  bewitching  spot.  These  Irish  are  sad  voluptuaries ; 
give  them  but  a  plot  of  ground  and  time,  they  will 
make  such  a  paradise  of  sweets,  and  that  with  so  little 
of  the  artificial  about  it,  that  you  are  tempted,  when 
once  within  its  precincts,  to  forget  your  cares,  your 
very  duties  in  the  bustling  world,  and  to  imagine  you 
were  invested  with  the  privilege  of  our  first  father, 
ere  his  sin  had  changed  the  beauty  of  this  world  and 
his  own  into  corruption.  You  are  in  a  garden  where 
the  creature's  hand  has  but  followed  the  track  of  cre- 
ative magnificence;  and  you  feel  as  though  all  your 
business  with  this  earth  was  now  only  to  dress  and  to 
keep  it,  and  to  enjoy  its  enchanting  beauties. 


LETTER  VI. 


WESTMEATH    TO    DOWN. 

Newry,  July. 
In  spite  of  all  remonstrances,  our  dear  hospitable 
entertainer  would  rise  at  an  unconscionably  early  hour 
to  dispense  with  her  own  kind  hands  the  plentiful 
breakfast  prepared ;  and  then,  freighting  her  carriage 
with  abundance  of  provision  for  our  day's  journey, 
dismissed  us  with  a  farewell  even  more  tenderly 
affectionate  than  her  first  welcome  had  been,  to  Mul- 
lingar,  whence  I  had  resolved  to  cross  the  country  by 
private  roads,  instead  of  retracing  my  way  to  Dublin, 
there  to  take  a  northern  stage.  Private  travelling  is 
infinitely  more  agreeable,  particularly  when  you  can 
choose  both  route  and  vehicle,  and  take  your  own 
time  ;  and  my  Westmeath  friends,  heartily  approving 
my  contempt  for  the  fears  that  beset  some  tourists  in 
this  country,  commended  the  choice.  Four  days  had 
so  endeared  to  me  the  place  and  its  inmates,  that  1  left  it 
with  the  reluctant  regret  of  one  who  had  long  been 
attached  to  both.  A  more  painful  farewell,  however, 
remained  to  be  taken :  had  I  known  the  excess  of  its 
bitterness,  I  should  scarcely  have  allowed  myself  that 
second  visit  to  the  spot.  To  find  him  there  was  indeed 
a  searching  trial  of  feeling :  but  to  leave  him  there 


130  LETTER    VI. 

seemed  to  rend  every  fibre  of  the  heart.  Rebellion 
did  surely  for  some  moments  prevail ;  but  the  two 
concluding  lines  of  the  inscription  over  which  my  eye 
wandered  almost  unconsciously,  came  at  that  moment 
with  the  effect  that  they  feebly  describe. 

Hush,  rising  griefs  :  submit,  rebellious  will ; 
Faith  looks  to  Jesus,  and  the  storm  is  still. 

It  was  indeed  His  gentle  voice  that  alone  could 
calm  the  internal  workings  of  a  mind  more  excited 
than  the  tempestuous  waves.  I  walked  among  the 
hawthorn  trees  until  power  was  given  to  bid  a  quiet  and 
almost  a  contented  farewell.  Little  prospect,  there  is 
of  revisiting  the  scene  :  but  no  matter  !  There  was  a 
word  of  promise  hidden  in  my  heart  from  which  I 
had  often  drawn  sweet  solace :  and  now  it  spoke  to 
me  with  an  application  as  personal  as  ever  it  carried 
to  the  bosom  of  the  mourner  of  Bethany — "  Thy 
brother  shall  rise  again." 

At  the  hotel  I  had  ordered  an  open  car  to  Trim ; 
but  a  deluge  of  rain  coming  on  obliged  us  to  change 
it  for  a  post-chaise.  Once  more,  and  for  the  last  time, 
as  I  supposed,  I  reaped  the  fruit  of  the  universal  love 
and  admiration  in  which  he  had  been  held,  and  the 
deep  sympathy  excited  by  his  fate  ;  for  when  the 
master  ascertained  our  relationship,  the  usual  civility 
shown  by  his  class  in  Ireland  became  heightened  into  an 
assiduous  kindness  and  respectful  attention,  the  origin 
of  which  made  them  doubly  welcome.  Even  here,  I 
was  constrained  to  smile  at  the  deportment  of  a  group 
of  beggars.  Knowing  as  I  do  how  entirely  this  class 
of  the  poor  Irish  are  driven  to  subsist  on  charity,  I 
never   like  to  refuse  a  trifle :  however,  to  rid  myself 


WESTMEATH    TO    DOWN.  131 

of  much  superfluous  importunity,  1  addressed  the 
eager  applicants  on  my  first  alighting  in  the  easy  way 
that  always  takes  with  them.  "  Now  mind,  I  am  going 
to  stay  an  hour  or  two  in  Mullingar  :  I  shall  start  from 
this  hotel :  and  if  you  will  be  quiet  and  not  follow  me 
about,  I  will  give  each  of  you  something  before  I  go." 
This  assurance  was  received  with  a  chorus  of  bless- 
ings pronounced  in  every  imaginable  variety  of  lan- 
guage |  and  down  they  squatted  on  the  ground,  about 
the  door,  with  looks  so  full  of  glee,  that  you  who  are 
accustomed  to  the  aspect,  real  or  assumed,  of  the 
same  class  in  England,  would  never  have  guessed  at 
their  profession. 

I  had,  or  fancied  that  I  had,  numerous  wants  to  be 
supplied  at  the  various  shops  which  stud  the  opposite 
side  of  the  single,  very  lengthy  street  of  Mullingar. 
On  returning  from  the  church-yard,  I  commenced  this 
course  of  shopping,  and  my  poor  women  watched 
every  movement  from  their  station.  At  last  the  most 
wheedling  old  creature  you  ever  saw  crossed  over  to 
me,  and  began  with,  u  Darling  lady,  I  have  looked 
after  your  blessed  steps  all  the  morning:  won't  I  get 
the  halfpenny. no wl"  "  No,  for  you  know  we  agreed 
to  wait  till  I  should  set  off."  Just  then,  the  reason  of 
her  appeal  became  apparent ;  a  famished  looking 
creature  whom  I  ha*l  not  seen  before  presented  herself 
with  two  pale  babes,  and  began — u8he  has  no  family 
to  care  for,  and  1" — (i  Oh,"  I  interrupted,  "you  must 
not  be  jealous  of  each  other ;  you  don't  know  my 
promise,"  which  I  repeated,  including  her  in  it.  The 
poor  woman  fell  back  directly,  with  a  still  sad,  but 
very  thankful  countenance.  I  went  to  two  more 
shops,   and   finding  the  body  of  claimants  likely  to 


132  LETTER    VI* 

increase  greatly,  and  also  seeing  the  near  approach 
of  heavy  rain,  I  supplied  myself  with  change,  beckon- 
ed to  the  party  opposite,  and  immediately  had  the 
most  motley  assemblage  pressing  round  me  that  could 
be  conceived.  I  was  resolved  to  put  their  subordina- 
tion, that  is  to  say,  the  civilisation  of  Irish  savages,  still 
farther  to  the  test;  so  said,  uYou  must  not  crowd 
me,  you  know:  just  stand  out  in  a  proper  line."  It 
was  done  immediately;  and  none  had  reason  to  regret 
their  good  conduct ;  on  which,  by  the  by,  1  compli- 
mented them  greatly.  Such  a  scene  would  not  have 
done  in  a  more  public  place  ;  but  the  hour  Was  so 
early,  and  all  around  so  quiet,  that  there  was  nothing 
to  prevent  it.  One  remark  I  must  add — when  the 
long  delay  occasioned  by  the  rain  had  fairly  laid  me 
open  to  afresh  application  from  another  party,  not  a 
creature  appeared  to  ask  alms:  the  former  group 
remained  at  a  distance,  others  being  with  them ;  all 
had  their  eyes  fixed  on  us;  many  raised  their  voices 
to  send  a  blessing  with  us ;  but  some  feeling  appeared 
to  withhold  the  approach  of  every  individual.  Now, 
have  I  not  added  one  more  to  the  many  instances  that 
I  have  in  conversation  related  to  you,  justifying  my 
assertion  that  the  poorest,  the  most  uncivilized  of 
these  despised  Irish,  are,  under  proper  management, 
the  most  tractable  people  in  the  world  1  The  smile  to 
which  I  alluded  was  not  one  of  merriment,  but  that 
expression  of  affectionate  good-humor  without  which 
all  the  rest  had  been  in  vain :  at  least,  though  under 
different  treatment  a  sense  of  their  helpless  depend- 
ence might  have  forced  them  to  wait,  like  hungry  but 
well-kicked  dogs  for  a  bone,  the  pleased  and  gratified 
feeling  that   gave  such  a  peculiar   alacrity  to  their 


WESTMEATH    TO    DOWN.  133 

obedience  would  have  been  wanting.  My  first  object 
was  merely  selfish — the  anxiety  of  a  harassed  mind 
to  escape  a  teasing  annoyance  at  such  a  time.  By 
degrees  it  assumed  a  better  character,  and  ended  in  a 
train  of  thought  well  calculated  to  soften  the  agoniz- 
ing severity  of  feelings  and  regrets  purely  my  own. 
Some  tourists  jest  with  the  beggars  in  Ireland  ;  others 
execrate,  or  bitterly  complain  of  them.  I  don't 
know  whether  any  are  in  the  habit  of  trying  how  far 
a  little  relief  and  plenty  of  civility  combined  will  go 
to  neutralize  their  troubles.  Five  shillings  will  carry 
any  one,  on  this  plan,  a  hundred  miles  in  good-humor 
with  himself,  and  in  high  favor  with  the  objects  of  his 
bounty. 

Of  the  scenery  north-east  of  Mullingar,  I  can  tell 
you  very  little.  Sheets  of  water  continued  to 
descend,  making  the  windows  as  opaque  as  though 
their  material  had  been  ground  glass.  Whenever  a 
temporary  cessation  of  the  torrent  allowed  us  to  take 
a  glimpse,  pure  unsophisticated  bog  was  the  sum- 
total  of  the  amount  on  either  side:  but  to  me,  who 
know  somewhat  of  the  mysteries  of  turf-buying,  it 
appeared  of  a  truly  valuable  kind,  black,  compact,  and 
heavy.  I  believe  the  soil  here  is  peculiarly  rich. 
We  struck  at  last  into  a  very  pretty  road,  well  hung 
on  both  sides  with  foliage,  and  exhibiting  some  hand- 
some plantations  and  gardens.  By  this  time,  too, 
the  sun  had  broken  forth  with  renovated  splendor  5 
and  the  glorious  bow  of  promise  spanned  the  scene, 
so  delictously  fresh  after  those  abundant  showers. 
Few  things  are  more  impressively  typical  of  divine 
influence  on  the  heart  of  man,  softened  by  some  afflic- 
tive dispensation,  than  the  aspect  of  this  earth  when 
12 


134  LETTER    VI. 

the  sunshine  falls  upon  foliage  moist  with  summer 
rain.  In  this  instance  the  glow  was  so  vivid,  that 
before  we  reached  our  halting-place,  at  the  end  of 
the  first  eight  or  nine  miles,  scarcely  any  dampness 
remained  on  the  road;  and  while  our  horses  were 
refreshed,  we  indulged  ourselves  with  a  stroll  into 
what  appeared  a  singular  church-yard  ;  for  the  sacred 
edifice  was  built  in  the  very  midst  of  an  ornamental 
plantation,  surrounded  by  a  handsome  fence  of  stone, 
which  obliged  us  to  commit  somewhat  of  a  trespass, 
in  availing  ourselves  of  a  partial  gap  to  scale  the  for- 
tifications. We  did,  however,  obtain  entrance  this 
way,  and  satisfied  ourselves  that  the  church  was 
really  built  on  a  private  and  very  handsome  demesne. 
And  a  mile  or  two  beyond  this  I  came  in  contact, 
for  the  first  time,  with  what,  I  confess,  roused  some- 
thing in  my  bosom  not  quite  amicable  to  the  vicere- 
gency  of  the  land.  The  newspapers  have  no  doubt 
informed  you,  that,  in  his  zeal  for  the  preservation  of 
this  country,  Lord  Mulgrave  had  dispatched  an  army, 
or  something  very  much  like  it,  to  what  Mr.  O'Con- 
nell  calls  the  "  black  north."  The  occasion  of  this 
military  investment  of  the  most  devotedly  loyal  por- 
tion of  her  Majesty's  dominions,  was  the  recurrence 
of  the  12th  of  July,  the  anniversary  of  the  battle  of 
the  Boyne,  in  1690.  Fears  were  entertained,  or,  if 
not,  they  were  pretended — which,  you  know,  on  state 
occasions,  comes  to  the  same  thing — fears  lest  the 
loyalty  of  the  northern  men  should  issue  in  acts  of 
treason  There  was,  indeed,  ground  for  very  serious 
apprehension,  lest  the  Protestants  of  those  notoriously 
disaffected  counties,  Armagh,  Down,  Londonderry, 
Donegal,   &c,   might   arm  themselves  with   orange 


WESTMEATH    TO    DOWN.  135 

lilies,  to  the  great  terror  and  annoyance  of  her  Majes- 
ty's peaceable  Ribbon-men.  To  avert  this  formidable 
display,  and  to  coerce  the  incorrigible  upholders  of 
the  principles  that  placed  the  house  of  Brunswick  on 
the  throne,  his  Excellency  marched  all  the  disposable 
military  forces  in  that  direction,  and  arranged  such  a 
concentration  of  the  armed  police  as  would  suffice  to 
mark  the  paternal  solicitude  that  throbs  in  the  vice- 
regal bosom  for  the  encouragement  of  loyal  and  con- 
stitutional predilections  throughout  the  land.  Pro- 
ceeding towards  Trim,  I  was  surprised  to  meet  so 
many  straggling  parties^  by  twos  and  threes,  of  the 
green-jackets,  each  with  his  bayonet^  blunderbuss, 
and  cartouch-box.  The  truth  of  the  matter  presently 
flashed  on  my  mind :  and  I  must  confess  that  indig- 
nation the  most  glowing  took  possession  of  me  for  a 
few  moments.  The  poor  policemen  were,  however, 
quite  innocent ;  and  I  was  angry  with  myself  for  hav- 
ing felt  angry  with  them.  Towards  the  higher  party, 
I  acknowledge,  my  sentiments  underwent  little,  if 
any  change.  Presently,  I  found  we  were  travelling 
beside  a  very  narrow  stream,  playfully  rippling  along 
through  an  immense  field  of  rushes.  Again  it  appear- 
ed, winding  capriciously,  expanding  and  narrowing, 
until  it  abruptly  turned,  and  crossed  our  road  in  a 
wide  sheet  of  water,  over  which  abridge  was  thrown. 
I  then  asked  the  postillion  what  river  it  was.  He 
hesitated,  looked  rather  dark,  and  finally  answered  in 
an  under  tone,  "  I  don't  know :  I  believe  they  call  it 
the  Boyne." 

I  shall  not  trouble  you  by  recounting  any  of  the 
long  train  of  thoughts  that  marched  successively 
through  my  mind,  investing  it  more  completely  and 


136  LETTER    VI. 

effectually  than  the  north  had  been  invested  a  week 
before.  Private  feeling"  had  absorbed  what  was  more 
public,  during  several  days ;  but  here  I  found  the 
link  again  caught  up,  and  riveted  alike  to  the  past 
and  the  future.  Some  fragments  of  fine  old  edifices, 
occasionally  appearing  on  the  rising  grounds,  served 
as  landmarks  to  direct  my  mental  view  to  periods 
antecedent  to  that  so  irresistibly  brought  before  me  ; 
and  in  this  state  of  feeling  I  entered  perhaps  the  rich? 
est  spot  that  Ireland  boasts,  in  point  of  material  ruins. 
Moral  and  spiritual  ruins,  alas !  abound  in  every 
inhabited  corner  of  her  noble  territory. 

Of  Trim  I  had  thought  very  little,  except  as  a  mid- 
way stage  on  the  road  to  Drogheda,  where  I  hoped  tp 
arrive  that  night,  Judge  then  of  my  surprise  and 
gratification,  when  I  saw  on  either  side,  and  particul- 
arly in  advance  of  us,  the  most  majestic  remnants  of 
splendid  architecture,  steeples,  towers,  walls,  battler 
ments — some  mantled  with  ivy  and  gay  with  wild 
flowers,  others  frowning  in  sombre  nakedness;  some 
looking  down  from  an  imposing  elevation,  others 
again  embosomed  in  valleys,  or  reposing  on  plains  of 
the  richest  verdure,  while  amid  the  magnificent  relics 
of  former  greatness,  the  Boyne  rolled  a  broad  tran- 
quil stream,  in  that  depth  of  blue  that  only  the  reflec- 
tion of  such  a  summer  sky  as  then  over-arched  us 
could  impart  to  the  bosom  of  a  river.  It  was  alto- 
gether  a  glorious  scene  :  the  more  so  for  having  been 
so  little  anticipated  ;  and  when  we  alighted  at  the 
small  neat  posting-house,  we  agreed  to  brave  the 
consequences  of  a  little  delay,  and  to  allow  ourselves 
an  hour's  investigation  of  some  of  these  winders  of 
the  olden  time.     The  first  few  steps  we  took  were 


WESTMEATH    TO    DOWN.  137 

along  the  broken  wall  of  a  very  large  monastic  build- 
ing, until  we  descried  a  notice  that  it  was  a  trespass 
to  intrude  there ;  and  the  next  turn  placed  us  at  the 
entrance  of  a  Romish  chapel  built,  as  it  seemed,  upon 
a  part  of  the  ruin.  From  this  of  course  I  turned ; 
and  the  castle  then  looked  so  inviting,  that  we 
inquired  how  to  obtain  access  to  it.  A  respectable 
shop  was  named,  where,  on  presenting  our  request,  a 
person  was  directed  to  conduct  us  to  the  rear  of  the 
house,  thence  across  several  yards,  and  then  through 
a  pretty  garden,  which  opened  upon  a  very  abrupt 
though  not  extensive  ascent.  Here  the  guide  left  usj 
with  directions  to  return  by  the  same  path :  we  trod 
lightly  up  the  steep  to  the  enormous  central  mass  of 
ruin,  and  looked  with  amazement  on  the  surrounding 
scene.  Imagine  an  area,  comprising  four  acres  of 
ground,  finely  situated  on  an  eminence  overhanging 
the  river,  enclosed  by  a  massive  curtain,  large  frag- 
ments of  which  remain,  together  with  distinct  frame- 
work of  the  flanking  towers  that  must  have  rendered 
it  a  most  formidable  fortress.  The  principal  of  these, 
the  grand  entrance,  with  the  traces  of  its  portcullis 
and  drawbridge,  is  wonderfully  perfect,  although  the 
date  of  this  building  is  not  much  less  than  seven  cen- 
turies back;  A  stronger  position  could  not  have 
been  chosen,  nor  a  finer  specimen  of  durable  archi- 
tecture erected  on  it.  We  climbed  in  at  some  of  the 
gaps,  and  mounting  broken  stairs,  traced  with  delight 
the  proportions  of  lofty  rooms,  the  immense  fire-pla- 
ces, and  tiers  of  windows  deeply  cut  in  walls  of  pro- 
digious thickness.  The  history  of  this  noble  ruin  is 
also  remarkable.  Here  Henry  V.,  when  very  young, 
was  detained  in  captivity,  by  order  of  Richard  II.     A 


138  LETTER  VI. 

royal  mint  was  established  here,  and  parliaments  hold- 
en.  Important  events  connected  with  the  castle  also 
occurred  during  the  civil  wars,  when  Cromwell  be- 
came its  master.  A  long  summer's  day  would  not 
have  sufficed  for  a  cursory  examination  of  what  is 
really  worth  exploring  on  this  ground,  and  it  was  not 
possible  to  avoid  dividing  our  attention  between  the 
castle  and  the  scene  that  presented  itself  on  every 
side  from  our  elevated  station.  A  wall,  buried  in  ivy? 
an  original  outwork  of  the  rampart,  descended  on  one 
side  to  a  meadow  of  the  purest  verdure,  which,  I  am 
told,  is  at  times  overflowed  by  the  Boyne,  whose  wa- 
ters probably  once  washed  the  wall.  On  another 
side,  the  stones  had  fallen  thickly,  rolling  down  the 
slope,  and  forming  a  seeming,  but  quite  impracticable 
descent  to  the  rows  of  cabins  below.  Turn  where  we 
would,  vestiges  of  ancient  buildings  presented  them- 
selves ;  and  it  was  impossible  to  doubt  that  the  extent 
of  this  town  must  once  have  been  considerable,  its 
importance  very  great.  Indeed,  few  posts  were  more 
hotly  contested  during  the  wars  of  the  pale,  when  L)e 
Lacy  was  its  lord,  and  Roderic  O'Connor,  king  of 
Connaught,  led  his  forces  against  it,  or  the  Earl  of 
Pembroke  laid  close  siege  to  harass  his  rival,  De 
Lacy.  With  unspeakable  reluctance,  I  finished  this 
hasty  glimpse  of  Trim  castle,  and  slowly  descended 
the  knoll  by  which  we  had  entered,  passing  again  the 
corner  of  that  pretty  garden  which  basks  so  content- 
edly at  the  foot  of  the  old  grey  ruins.  Here  another 
instance  of  the  national  courtesy  was  displayed.  A 
poor  gardener,  at  work  among  the  shrubs,  had  culled 
and  bound  a  most  lovely  and  fragrant  boquet  during 
our  stay  in  the  regions  above  him  ;  and  now,  with  a 


WESTMEATH   TO   DOWN,  139 

grace  that  enhanced  the  gift,  he  approached  to  pre- 
sent it.  When  I  say  a  grace,  I  mean  nothing  stu- 
died ;  but  that  inherent  capability  of  performing  kind 
things  in  the  kindest  manner  that  seems  to  engrave 
the  cead-mille  failthe  on  all  their  sayings  and  doings. 
The  native  Irishman,  a  fine,  athletic,  healthy,  hardy- 
looking  man,  in  very  dilapidated  habiliments,  was  so 
in  keeping  with  the  scene,  with  the  ruined  castle  and 
the  cheerful  flowers,  that  I  could  not  have  dispensed 
with  that  little  incident  to  crown  the  adventure.  The 
trifling  acknowledgment  tendered  in  return  was  ac- 
companied with  a  coin  that  never  passes  as  valueless 
jn  the  sight  of  these  people  t  courteous  words,  and 
expressions  of  the  warmest  admiration  at  the  beauties 
we  had  been  viewing.  He  then  told  me  that  he  had 
at  home  a  little  book  with  some  particulars  of  the 
place,  and  readily  ran  to  fetch  it.  I  purchased  the 
greasy  pamphlet,  whieh  contained  merely  a  plan  of 
the  grounds  and  some  chronological  notes ;  but  it 
served  to  amuse  me  on  the  more  monotonous  part  of 
the  subsequent  journey. 

Time  had  slipped  away  so  imperceptibly  during  our 
visit  to  these  interesting  ruins,  that  we  found  it  would 
he  impossible  to  enjoy  even  a  passing  glimpse  of  the 
yellow  tower,  or  any  of  the  rugged  but  noble  frag- 
ments of  former  greatness  that  on  every  side  invited 
our  gaze.  We  took  an  open  car,  and  after  jaunting 
pleasantly  through  a  rich  country,  arrived  at  Navan 
at  5  o'clock.  This  was  the  most  disagreeable  halt  I 
had  yet  made,  affording  the  only  instance  of  an  at- 
tempt at  imposition.  On  ordering  another  car,  one 
was  brought  to  the  door,  which,  to  say  nothing  of 
its  appearancej  would  not  have  held  together  under 


14*0  LETTER   VI. 

us  and  our  luggage  for  an  hour.  I  declined  using  it, 
and  was  told  I  could  have  no  other  j  but  when  the  peo- 
ple heard  me  quietly  ordering  the  driver  from  Trim 
to  replace  the  things  on  his  own,  and  take  us  to  a 
different  posting-house,  the  tone  was  changed,  and 
a  very  decent  vehicle  made  its  appearance.  During 
the  delay,  I  was  shocked  and  disgusted  by  the  spec- 
tacles of  intoxication  presented  on  every  side  ;  while 
the  activity  of  a  numerous  party  of  policemen  ap- 
peared to  be  the  only  means  of  preventing  greater 
turbulence  among  some  who  assuredly  did  not  belong 
to  the  "  Orange  faction."  This  prevented  my  going 
out  to  look  at  the  place  ;  and  when  at  last  we  were 
xeady  to  start,  the  original  demand  was  increased, 
with  a  protestation  that  the  same  sum  had  been  named 
from  the  first.  A  boy  of  not  more  than  fourteen  years, 
who  was  to  drive  us,  voluntarily  corroborated  my 
assurance  to  the  contrary,  and  for  this  offence  he  was 
unseated,  struck,  and  supplanted  by  a  brother  con- 
siderably older,  whom  I  presently  perceived  to  be  in 
no  fit  state  to  manage  either  the  horse  or  himself. 

Here  was  an  agreeable  predicament  to  be  placed  in  ! 
I  had  paid  the  overcharge,  which  made  but  two 
shillings  difference,  and  which  was  persisted  in  with 
the  most  profound  and  courteous  respect,  accom- 
panied by  so  maiay  fine  speeches,  that  it  was  impossi- 
ble to  be  more  politely  robbed.  I,  on  the  other  hand, 
was  equally  civil,  while  lecturing  them  for  giving 
strangers  any  cause  of  complaint  against  the  Irish 
people.  We  started  off;  but  the  poor  boy,  whose 
veracity  had  deprived  him  of  an  expected  perquisite, 
was  not  to  be  appeased ;  he  ran  alongside  the  car, 
most  bitterly  lamenting,  and  reproaching  his  unkind 


WESTMEaTH  to  down.  HI 

brother,  who,  in  return,  repeatedly  cut  him  with  the 
whip.  We  were  now  at  the  head  of  a  very  steep  little 
road,  thickly  strewn  with  large  stones  ;  and  the  horse, 
perplexed  by  the  random  pulls  at  the  rein  given  by 
his  drunken  driver,  was  running  up  against  a  broken 
wall.  I  began  to  be  seriously  alarmed,  and  at  a  loss 
what  plan  to  pursue,  when  a  portion  of  the  army  of 
occupation  already  alluded  to,  came  up,  bestowed  on 
the  driver  a  severe  reprimand,  and  hinting  that  he 
was  a  fitter  subject  for  their  superintendence  than  to 
conduct  our  ear  to  Brogheda,  they  compelled  him  to 
dismount,  giving  the  seat  to  his  little  brother,  who, 
smiling  through  his  tears,  sprang  into  it,  and  drove  off. 
The  country  along  which  we  now  passed,  was  rich, 
fertile,  arid  exceedingly  pleasant.  So  long  a  level, 
shaded  with  fine  trees,  I  think  we  had  not  travers- 
ed ;  and  the  beauty  of  a  summer  evening,  the  mel- 
low rays  falling  on  verdure  freshened  by  the  morning 
rain,  added  a  further  charm  to  the  scenery.  The  boy 
was  not  very  communicative  nor  very  well  informed, 
so  that  we  got  but  little  help  in  ascertaining  the 
names  of  several  fine  parks,  dwellings,  and  ruins  that 
lay  in  our  route.  All  other  interest,  however,  was 
soon  absorbed  in  that  of  personal  security  j  for,  long 
before  approaching  Drogheda  we  found  ourselves  on  a 
road  unequalled  by  the  very  worst  I  ever  was  doomed 
to  cross  even  in  the  most  rugged  North  American 
districts.  The  peculiarity  of  this  most  delectable 
track  consisted  in  its  having,  to  all  appearance,  been 
scooped  out  at  the  distance  of  two  or  three  yards,  in 
every  direction,  and  the  soil  carried  away  to  the 
amount  of  some  shovel-fulls  in  each  place.  Descrip- 
tion cacnot  do  justice  to  it,  no   •  21'fection  of  springs 


142  LETTER    VI. 

would   have   rendered   the    motion    of  any    carriage 
tolerable  ;  and  you  may  picture  to  yourself  the  delights 
of  a  clumsy  jaunting  car,  destitute  of  springs,  drawn 
by  a  huge  cart-horse,  whose  experience  teaching  him 
that  the  stage  was  about  to  terminate,  induced  a  more 
sprightly  progress  towards  the  place  of  refreshment 
and  repose.    What  between  the  imminent  peril  of  being 
pitched  forward  sideways  (the  only  method  of  falling 
from  an  Irish  car)  and  the  tremendous  blows  received 
from  the    wood   and    iron    forming    the    frame-work 
behind  and  on  either  side,   against   which  every  jolt 
sent  us  with  unerring  effect,  a  less  enviable  situation 
cannot  well  be  imagined.     Certainly  we  had  neither 
suffered  so   much  nor  laughed  so  much   since  com- 
mencinor    this    tour.      The    latter    was    unavoidable 
through  the  ludicrous  appearance  that  each  presented 
in  the  other's  sight,  when  baffled  in  some  scheme  for 
averting   the    consequences    of  an    impending   jolt  ; 
while   the    boy,    seated   on    the    opposite    side,    and 
preserving  a  most  praiseworthy  steadiness  of  counte- 
nance, increased  our  mirth  by  his  evident  struggle  to 
avoid  betraying  how  greatly  he  enjoyed  our  mishaps. 
It  was  very  provoking  to  be   engrossed  in  self,  while 
passing  so   near  the  famous   spot   where  William  of 
Orange  secured  the  civil   and  religious  liberties  of 
three  kingdoms;     The  site  of  the  battle,  indeed,  was 
at  some  distance  to  the  left ;  but  I  might  have  formed 
a  tolerably  accurate  notion  of  the  exact  locality  had 
it  been  possible  to  withdraw  my   attention  from  the 
broken  road  and  its  concomitants.     The   entrance  to 
Drogheda,  for  a  mile  or  so,  is  one  of  the  last  places  I 
should    select-  to  give    a    stranger   a   favorable    im- 
pression of  Ireland*     The  town  itself,  as  we  advanced^ 


WESTMEATH    TO    DOWN.  143 

astonished  me  by  its  evident  size  and  importance  ;  but 
the  lines  of  wretched  hovels  through  which  we  had  to 
pass,  and  the  squalid  appearance  of  their  inmates, 
afforded  a  painful  contrast  to  the  massive  buildings 
that  rose  obscurely  against  the  sky,  now  again  over- 
cast with  heavy  clouds.  Nothing  looked  thriving  in 
this  suburb  except  the  pigs ;  and  it  struck  me  that  I 
had  never  in  any  other  place,  seen  them  so  petted  as 
here.  A  woman  seated  at  a  cabin  door,  was  actually 
nursing  one  of  the  swinish  multitude ;  and  in  every 
direction  the  sagacious  animals,  conscious  of  supper 
time,  were  to  be  seen,  each  hastening  with  unerring 
precision  to  his  own  domicile.  This  spectacle  won- 
derfully diverted  my  English  companion,  who  had  no 
idea  to  what  privileges  the  grunting  race  are  admitted 
in  some  parts  of  Ireland. 

At  length,  after  splashing  through  one  of  the  dirtiest 
and  narrowest  lanes  I  had  yet  passed,  we  emerged 
into  the  town  itself,  and  crossed  the  Boyne  where  it 
flows  under  a  respectable  bridge,  and  then  widens  into 
quite  a  spacious  port.  The  farther  we  advanced,  the 
greater  was  my  surprise,  to  find  Drogheda  a  city  so 
extensive,  and  adorned  with  such  buildings.  A  turn 
to  the  left  led  us  round  the  court-house,  a  very  hand- 
some edifice ;  and  into  a  street  which  for  extent  and 
appearance  would  not  have  disgraced  the  capital. 
Here  were  several  first-rate  shops,  and  hotels  of  con- 
siderable size.  I  had  directed  our  young  driver  to 
take  us  to  the  best  in  the  place  ;  not  I  confess,  with- 
out secret  misgivings,  after  the  description  afforded 
by  a  late  honorable  and  reverend  traveller,  of  broken 
windows  and  uncarpeted  rooms.  I  was  therefore 
agreeably  disappointed,  on  ascending  a  handsome  flight 


144  LETTER  VI. 

of  stairs,  to  find  the  accommodations  answerable  to  the 
exterior  appearance  of  the  house,  which  is  the  very 
same  where  Mr.  Noel  stayed — the  White  Horse.  From 
a  spacious  balcony,  the  street  looked  so  inviting 
that  we  resolved  to  make  a  tour  of  inspection  while 
our  dinner,  or  rather  supper,  was  in  course  of  prepara 
tion  j  and  were  rewarded  by  presently  finding-  our- 
selves in  front  of  a  fine  old  gateway,  the  most  perfect 
specimen  remaining  of  the  memorable  fortifications 
of  Drogheda.  A  heavy  fall  of  rain  sent  us  back, 
before  we  could  gratify  our  curiosity  with  a  full 
survey  of  this  noble  relic  ;  and  instead  of  discomforts 
of  any  kind,  I  found  in  the  hotel  all  that  could  ren- 
der our  short  sojourn  agreeable  j  together  with  the 
unexpected  incident  of  discovering  that  a  dear  English 
friend  was  resting,  with  her  children,  under  the  same 
roof,  on  their  route  from  Dublin  to  Belfast.  The 
surprise  was  mutual ;  and  not  even  the  effects  of  that 
unmerciful  jolting  prevented  my  enjoying  what  is 
perhaps  one  of  the  most  agreeable  surprises  that  can 
brighten  a  traveller's  way — the  conversation  of  an 
endeared  friend,  who,  all  unlooked  for,  crosses  a  path 
otherwise  lying  through  a  region  of  strange  faces  j 
and  whan  the  place  of  meeting  is,  moreover,  an  inn. 
Mrs.  W.  finding  I  was  bound  to  Lord  Roden's,  kindly 
pressed  me  to  avail  myself  of  her  carriage  to  within 
a  few  miles  of  Tollymore  Park  ;  but  she  was  to  start 
at  five  in  the  morning,  and  as  I  wished  to  see  a  little 
of  Drogheda,  and  had  been  most  absurdly  but  unin- 
tentionally misled  by  the  waiter  as  to  the  facilities  for 
reaching  my  destination,  of  which  more  anon,  I 
declined  the  proposal,  and  we  parted. 

The   blunder   above-mentioned    consisted   in  the 


WESTBIEATH    TO    DOWN.  H5 

waiter's  positive  assurance  that  they  would  post  me 
from  the  hotel  to  Tollymore  Park.  In  vain  did  I 
assure  him  that  the  distance  was  too  great  to  admit 
of  it:  he  still  replied,  "We  constantly  post  Lord 
Roden  and  Lord  Powerscourt,  both  going:  and  return- 
ing,  and  make  it  but  one  stage.  We  shall  undertake 
to  send  you  to  his  lordship's  house  ;  and  if  the  distance 
is  greater  than  we  charge  for,  the  loss  will  fall  on  us,  not 
on  you."  This  was  all  very  fair;  and  as  he  satisfied 
me  of  the  fact  of  that  posting,  I  could  not  gainsay  it. 
Had  I  but  brought  a  road-book,  or  consulted  any  one 
else,  or  even  properly  recollected  the  probable  direc- 
tion we  must  take,  all  would  have  been  explained. 
However,  with  very  unpardonable  heedlessness,  I 
gave  up  the  point,  countermanded  the  order  for 
securing  places  in  the  northern  coach,  which  would 
arrive  from  Dublin  at  eleven  in  the  forenoon,  and 
resolved  to  take  three  hours  longer  for  my  Drogheda 
rambles.  You  will  by  this  time  have  guessed  that 
the  waiter's  promised  easy  stage  was  to  my  noble 
friend's  house  nt  Dundalk  ;  while  my  object  was  to 
reach  that  at  Castlewellan.  I  give  you  leave  to  laugh  ; 
but  annoyed  as  I  was  on  making  the  discovery,  by 
cross-questioning  the  postillion  when  we  had  left 
Drogheda  some  miles  behind  us,  I  do  not  now  regret 
the  circumstance  ;  as  it  has  opened  another  and  an 
important  field  of  observation  to  my  view. 

With  the  pleasant  prospect  of  dining  at  Tollymore 
Park  the  same  evening,  we  set  out,  after  an  early 
breakfast,  to  explore  the  town.  Our  first  ramble  was 
to  the  round  fort,  the  imposing  appearance  of  which 
had  struck  me  greatly  on  entering  Drogheda.  This 
is  a  modern  building,  comparatively,  placed  on  a  most 
13 


146  LETTER    VI. 

commanding  eminence,  overlooking  both  town  and 
harbor.  At  its  base  are  some  barracks ;  and  perhaps 
you  will  not  wonder  at  my  preferring  that  spot,  when 
I  tell  you  that  in  the  company  of  soldiers  quartered 
there  were  some  of  the  individuals  who  had  paid  the 
last  sad  military  honors,  nine  years  before,  at  Mullin- 
gar.  They  were,  indeed,  a  detachment  of  my  bro- 
ther's regiment;  and  long  and  deeply  interesting  was 
the  tale  that  they  had  to  tell,  of  what  I  little  expected 
so  soon  to  hear  more  of.  One  circumstance  I  am 
here  tempted  to  narrate,  leaving  you  to  account  for 
it  j — I  cannot.  It  so  far  surpasses  the  natural  sagaci- 
ty of  the  dog,  that  although  I  had  the  story  from  at 
least  ten  persons,  in  every  variety  of  rank  in  and 
about  Mullingar,  including  two  eye-witnesses  of  the 
event,  who,  though  not  on  terms  of  common  civility 
with  each  other,  exactly  agreed  in  their  relation  of  it, 
still  I  could  not  give  credence  to  the  thing,  until 
these  three  intelligent  soldiers  spontaneously  repeated 
and  vouched  for  its  accuracy. 

He  had  a  favorite  dog,  a  pointer,  so  attached  to 
him  that,  even  on  his  frequent  aquatic  excursions, 
the  faithful  animal  would  be  his  companion,  and  inva 
riably  entered  the  boat.  On  that  fatal  day,  this  dog 
and  another  followed  him  to  the  lake  ;  but  when  in 
vited,  as  usual,  to  embark,  the  pointer  refused,  setting 
up  at  the  same  time  the  most  dismal  howlings  imagina- 
ble. Accustomed  to  exact  implicit  obedience  from  all, 
though  in  the  kindest  manner,  his  master  persisted — 
coaxed,  encouraged,  commanded,  threatened  ;  but  all 
in  vain.  The  dog  evaded  every  effort  to  seize  him,  and 
ran  from  the  water ;  but  when  the  boat  had  put  off,  he 
returned  to  its  brink,  and  continued  to  fill  the  air  with 


WESTMEATH    TO    DOWN.  147 

such  yells  as  were  never  forgotten  by  those  who 
heard  them.  In  a  few  minutes  the  awful  event  took 
place :  the  boat  overset ;  in  a  few  minutes  more  he 
was  drawn  from  the  bottom,  a  corpse.  During  this 
period,  the  cries  of  the  dog  were  terrific  ;  and  his 
movements,  as  he  rushed  to  and  fro,  even  then  divided 
the  attention  of  the  many  individuals  present.  The 
soldiers  told  me  that,  from  this  circumstance,  he  was 
regarded  as  a  sort  of  bequest  by  the  affectionate  pri- 
vates of  the  company,  whose  devotion  to  their  cap- 
tain knew  no  bounds.  The  dog  was  tended  with  the 
utmost  care,  made  a  companion  of,  and  taken  with 
them  on  the  march  that  immediately  followed  the 
funeral :  but  he  drooped  and  pined,  and  at  last  disap- 
peared— no  one  could  tell  how.  I  make  no  comment 
on  this:  I  cannot  refuse  to  receive  such  unanimous 
testimony  ;  but  it  is  passing  strange. 

From  the  top  of  the  tower,  to  which  we  were  kind- 
ly conducted  by  the  old  English  artilleryman  in  charge 
of  it,  a  view  was  afforded  replete  with  more  interest 
than  I  had  anticipated.  Far  to  the  right,  as  we  stood 
facing  the  town,  the  Boyne  widened,  and  assumed  a 
grander  character,  towards  the  point  to  which  large 
vessels  can  approach.  A  little  behind,  in  the  same 
direction,  still  stands  the  vestry  of  the  church,  whence 
Cromwell  issued  his  orders  previous  to  the  horrible 
massacre  that  for  five  days  rendered  the  town  a  scene 
of  carnage.  We  beheld  the  first  breach  made  in  ihe 
walls  by  this  unflinching  man-slayer,  who  cared  not 
through  what  excess  of  slaughter  he  waded  to  more 
than  kingly  power.  A  bend  in  the  river,  with  the 
swell  of  its  banks  and  the  thick  mass  of  lofty  trees 
that  heightened  them  still  more,  concealed  the  place 


148  LETTER  VI* 

where,  within  ]ess  than  half  a  century  afterwards,  the 
battle  was  fought  and  the  deliverance  effected  which 
we  are  now  exhorted  to  remember  to  forget.  The 
old  soldier,  who  appeared  indifferent  enough  to  the 
several  causes  in  which  all  this  fighting  took  place, 
was  nevertheless  Well  acquainted  with  the  details  of 
Cromwell's  movements,  and  described  them  ;  at  the 
same  time  pointing  out  the  various  spots  referred  tov 
and  adding  some  historical  data.  Turning  then  to- 
the  town,  we  had  a  better  view  of  its  extent  and  I'm- 
portance  ;  and  I  no  longer  marvelled  that  an  individ- 
ual tradesman,  however  respectable  and  intelligent, 
had  failed  in  his  laudable  attempt  at  bringing  so  large 
a  body  of  people  to  act  in  concert., 

A  touching  interest  belongs  to  the  parish  church 
of  St.  Peter's,  the  spire  of  which  rose  before  us. 
In  the  year  J 64*3,  Lord  Viscount  Moore,  whose  family 
take  the  title  of  their  Marquisate  from  this  town,  was 
gallantly  battling  against  the  formidable  forces  of  the 
rebel  O'Neil,  when  a  cannon  ball  put  a  period  to  his 
mortal  existence.  He  was  interred  in  that  church,, 
where  many  of  hi.s  noble  house  are  entombed.  Six 
years  after  this  event,  the  widow  of  this  brave  soldier 
and  most  tender  husband,  came  to  Drogheda.  She. 
was  on  horseback,,  when  a  sudden  view  of  St.  Peter'a 
church  so  overcame  her  that  she  fainted,  and  fell 
from  her  saddle.  Her  I'enf  was  broken  at  the  ancle, 
and  in  three  day/s,  mortification,  having  ensued,  she 
was  a  corpse.  It  is  not  often,  in  this  cold  forgetful 
world,  that  we  meet  with  such  instances  of  enduring 
attachment.  Had  time  permitted,  I  should  have 
visited  the  resting-place,  where  this  fair  victim  of 
constant  affection  moulders  beside  her  lord  \  but  mj 


WESTMEATH    TO    H  OWN.  14-9 

transit  is  provokingly  hurried  ;  I  can  but  glance  on 
the  externals  of  what  I  should  like  to  investigate  ;  and 
as  to  the  main  object  of  my  search,  I  must  defer  all 
remarks  on  that  head,  until  I  become  domesticated 
once  more  in  a  private  dwelling. 

Leaving  the  fort,  we  resolved  to  try  whether,  by 
rounding  the  projection  of  the  bank,  we  could  not 
obtain  a  view  up  the  river,  as  far  as  Old  Bridge  ;  but 
finding  ourselves  baffled  by  another  turn  at  some  dis- 
tance, we  just  filled  our  little  bottle,  and  retraced 
our  steps  to  the  town,  again  passing  along  the  most 
miserable  suburban  alleys  imaginable,  with  an  extra 
allowance  of  pet  pigs,  to  assist  in  dispensing  those 
abundant  splashes  of  mud  that  must  inevitably  fall  to 
the  lot  of  the  passenger.  Crossing  again  the  bridge, 
and  attracted  by  groups  of  country  people,  we  peram- 
bulated some  of  the  high  slopes  that  form  the  most 
antique  looking  streets  of  this  most  interesting  town, 
enjoying  the  alternation  of  old  buildings  and  walls, 
over  which  hung  the  venerable  boughs  of  trees,  that, 
did  they  possess  the  power  of  treating  us  w7ith  a  vol- 
ume of  auto-biography,  would  doubtless  have  many  a 
thrilling  tale  to  record.  The  streets  were  perfectly 
clean ;  so  were  the  very  pretty  peasant  girls  and 
women,  who,  each  with  a  basket  on  her  arm,  displayed 
the  merchandise  of  butter,  eggs,  or  poultry  ;  all  simi- 
larly packed  in  a  profusion  of  fresh  green  leaves  5 
many  of  the  fowls  were  alive,  and  peeping  from 
beneath  the  verdant  covering.  1  know  not  when  I 
have  witnessed  a  scene  where  rural  traffic  wore  so 
characteristic  an  appearance  in  the  neart  of  a  busy 
town.  An  air  and  step  of  sorightiy  independence,  a 
frank,  unflinching^  but  by  no  means  bold  or  forward 
13* 


150  LETTER    VI. 

look,  struck  me  as  peculiarly  belonging  to  these  mar* 
ket  women ;  perhaps  the  refreshing  appearance  of 
their  baskets,  after  our  morning  annoyances  of  fierce 
sunbeams  and  mud,  tinted  the  picture  a  little-  Cer- 
tainly  I  considered  the  butter  market  of  Drogheda  as 
one  of  the  most  agreeable  that  I  had  beheld  ;  and  its 
attendants  as  affording  a  highly  favorable  specimen  of 
the  peasantry. 

I  cannot  say  so  much  for  the  other  markets ;  there 
we  saw,  in  passing  through  on  our  egress  from  the 
town,  much  of  the  repulsive.  Early  as  it  was,  intoxi- 
cation prevailed  to  a  frightful  extent,  with  noise,  dirt, 
confusion,  and  discord  in  proportion.  The  High 
Street,  where  my  hotel  was  situated,  became  crowded 
with  purchasers  thronging  to  the  various  shops.  The 
frieze  coat,  and  blue  cloak  with  its  hood  flung  over 
the  unbonneted  head,  seemed  universally  to  prevail ; 
and  in  point  of  stature,  muscle,  and  hardiness  of 
aspect,  I  think  the  country  people  here  excelled  their 
southern  neighbors.  After  a  leisurely  tour  in  the 
shopping  way,  we  returned  to  the  hotel,  where  I  pru- 
dently dressed  for  dinner,  previously  to  stepping  into 
the  post-chaise  which  was  to  leave  us  at  Tollymore 
Park.  A  more  careful  computation  of  distances, 
however,  led  us  to  question  the  postillion,  whose  first 
answer  unravelled  the  mystery.  He  should,  he  said, 
quit  us  at  Castle  Bellingham,  the  half-way  stage, 
whence  another  pair  of  horses  would  convey  us  to 
Dundalk.  "But  we  have  nothing  to  do  with  Dun- 
dalk."  O  yes,  he  understood  we  were  going  to  Lord 
Roden's ;  and  sure  Dundalk  was  his  Lordship's  place. 
But  how  far  I  asked,  in  no  small  consternation,  were 
we  from  Castlewellan '/     He  could  not  exactly  say : 


WESTMEATH    TO   DOWN*  15! 

but  from  Dundalk  it  was  nine  or  ten  miles  to  Newry, 
and  Casilewellan  was  beyond  the  Mourne  mountains, 
a  long-  stage,  if  not  two,  from  Newry. 

It  was  Saturday  afternoon  ;  I  was  tired,  and  full  of 
happy  anticipations  of  a  Sabbath  day's  repose,  after 
such  a  week  of  excitement.  Judge  of  my  mortifica- 
tion on  discovering  the  consequences  of  my  thought- 
less reliance  on  the  civil  and  communicative  waiter 
of  Drogheda.  A  place  of  note  for  hoodwinking  Eng- 
lish travellers  I  knew  it  to  be  ;  but  little  thought  of 
such  an  experimental  insight  into  the  process.  My 
pocket,  too,  was  involved  beyond  my  computation,  and 
i  sighed  to  think  how  far  the  Belfast  coach,  and  how 
much  farther  the  carriage  of  Mrs.  W.,  had  proceeded 
beyond  the  destination  that  I  now  despaired  of  reach- 
ing before  night.  Such  horses,  too,  I  had  not  seen  in 
harness  :  they  were  callous  to  the  lash,  through  feeble- 
ness and  exhaustion,  and  it  was  not  until  I  protested 
that  I  would  not  give  the  postillion  a  penny  unless  he 
desisted,  that  I  could  abate  the  unmerciful  floggings 
bestowed  on  the  poor  creatures  at  every  second  step. 
We  reached  Castle  Bellingham  at  a  walking  pace ; 
and  so  uncomfortably  interested  were  my  personal 
feelings,  that  I  could  scarcely  spare  a  look  to  the 
exceedingly  beautiful  scenery  around  me.  Trans- 
ferred, after  provoking  delays,  to  a  dilapidated  post- 
chaise,  with  two  spirited  horses  that  nearly  shook  it 
to  pieces,  one  of  which  was  ridden  by  a  boy  appa- 
rently not  more  than  twelve  years  old,  whose  childish 
aspect  startled  as  much  as  his  admirable  horseman- 
ship subsequently  delighted  me,  we  rattled  away  for 
Dundalk,  concerning  which  I  had  only  one  defined 
idea  3  that  of  its  having  sent  our  friend  Gordon  to 


152  LETTER    VI. 

Parliament  in  1S31.  A  near  approach,  however,  put 
to  flight  all  gloomy  feelings,  so  exquisitely  beautiful 
was  the  bold  sweep  of  that  splendid  bay,  scooped  as  it 
seemed  beneath  a  mountain,  while  the  sunlight  of  a 
glorious  evening  fell  brightly  on  the  snow-white 
buildings  that  appeared  nestled  among  trees  in  the 
distance.  At  each  succeeding  point  of  view  some 
new  beauty  developed  itself;  and  my  spirits  had  reco- 
vered their  buoyancy,  before  we  entered  the  hand 
some  town,  and  drove  up  to  the  gateway  of  Lord 
Roden's  dwelling — not  without  a  vague  hope  of  find- 
ing some  of  the  family  there. 

Disappointment,  however  awaited  us ;  not  even 
the  agent's  household  were  at  home ;  and  1  asked 
counsel  respecting  our  further  proceedings  of  a  fine 
old  porter,  whose  large  sturdy  figure  well  beseemed 
the  livery  that  he  wore.  This  consists  of  a  dark  blue 
coat,  with  waistcoat  and  accompaniments  of  a  bril- 
liant orange  velvet,  which  I,  not  having  before  seen 
so  fully  displayed,  innocently  took  for  the  uniform 
of  that  formidable  body  whose  apparitions  had  of  late 
so  troubled  the  repose  of  a  viceregal  pillow.  It  is, 
however,  the  family  livery;  and  was  so  long  before 
Lord  Roden  connected  himself  with  the  obnoxious 
tints  of  royalty  and  Nassau.  The  old  porter  had  the 
cause  deeply  at  heart  ;  he  told  me  with  a  swell  of  in- 
dignation that  seemed  to  distend  his  whole  person, 
how  grievously  he  had  been  insulted.  "A  man  has 
been  here  to-day,"  said  he,  "a  stranger  from  Con- 
naught,  a  fisherman  1  believe,  and  had  the  audacity  to 
ask  me  for  my  vote.  Me,"  he  repeated,  standing  at 
full  stretch,  and  throwing  his  coat  as  far  back  as  pos- 
sible, "and  with  this  waistcoat  upon  me,  he  actually 


WESTMEAi'H    TO    DOWN.  153 

asked  me  to  give  my  vote  to  him,  a  radical  from  Con- 
naught  !n  It  was.  some  time  even  befare  the  sweets, 
of  sympathy  could  prevail  to  calm  the  old  man's 
honest  indignation ;  for  he  regarded  it  as  an  un- 
heard-of affront.  At  length  I  bethought  myself  of 
the  little  vial  which  I  carried  in  my  hand  for  security, 
and  laughingly  said,  "Here  is  Mr.  CTConnelPs  favorite 
beverage — Boyne  water.*  I  took  it  out  of  the  river 
this  morning."  His  eyes  sparkled,  his  brow  relaxed, 
and  with  a  look  of  enthusiasm  he  said,  u  I  know  the 
place  ;  I  am  proud  to  say  it  was  by  the  Boyne  my 
family,  who  are  Scotch,  entered  Ireland  two  hundred 
years  ago  ;  and  myself  swam  over,  at  the  very  spot 
where  poor  Billy  crossed. n  I  did  not  immediately 
understand  that  the  affectionate  and  familiar  abbrevi- 
ation was  applied  to  his  Majesty  King  William  the 
Third. 

After  this  explosion  of  feeling,  the  porter,  whose 
appearance  and  whole  deportment  led  me  back  to  the 
olden  times,  entered  very  earnestly  into  a  computa- 
tion of  the  possibilities  that  I  might  reach  Tollymore 
Park  before  night.  He  had  already  ordered  a  pair  of 
the  freshest  horses  ;  and  charged  me  with  an  especial 
message  to  the  master  of  the  principal  hotel  at  Newry, 
requiring  that  he  would  instantly  post  me  to  the  Park ; 
but  when  I  looked  at  the  twilight  sky,  all  hope  seemed 
to  vanish.  In  a  short  |ime  we  were  again  prepared 
to  start,    the    ancient    serving-man,  who    seemed   to 

*  When  this  worthy  was  endeavoring  to  beguile  the  loyalists 
into  his  repeal  project,  a  few  years  since,  he  quaffed  off  in  their 
presence  at  Navan,  a  bumpei  of  Boyne  water  to  the  toast  of  the 
«  pious,  glorious,  and  immortal  mer-ory."  Tbey  have  not  forgoU 
ten  it ;    neither  has  he. 

A 


154  LETTER    V* 

bear  undisputed  rule  over  all  the  officials  of  the  post- 
ing deoartments,  continuing  his  zealous  and  respect- 
ful assiduities  with  a  heartiness  that  rendered  them 
invaluable  ;  while  not  a  gossoon  in  the  street  but 
seemed  anxious  to  contribute  his  quota  of  attention, 
though  it  were  but  in  brushing  a  grain  of  dust  from 
the  wheel.  My  heart  swelled  with  delight  as  I  traced 
all  this  to  its  obvious  source  ;  I  was  bound  for  Tolly 
more  Park  ;  and  even  to  be  deemed  worthy  of  sharing 
the  hospitality  of  that  most  beloved  family,  gave  me 
a  sort  of  claim  on  every  one  of  them.  Lord  Koden 
is  idolized  in  Dundalk :  his  very  name  seemed  to  re- 
fresh the  faithful  old  porter  as  he  uttered  it.* 

It  was  near  nine  o'clock  when  we  entered  Newry: 
I  could  not  tell  what  to  make  of  it  in  the  gloom  of  a 
cloudy  evening  ;  particularly  of  one  building,  a  church, 
standing  on  what  seemed  to  be  an  inaccessible  height. 
We  drove  through  handsome  streets,  and  I  lost  no 
time  in  delivering  the  porter's  message  at  the  very 
elegant  hotel  where  we  stopped.  All  was  in  commo- 
tion, a  chaise  was  ready,  and  our  luggage  safely 
stowed  in  it,  before  I  supposed  it  could  be  ordered  ; 
but  to  startle  the  household,  perhaps  at  midnight,  I 
could  not  bear  ;  Sunday  travelling  was  out  of  the 
question  5  and  here  we  are,  to  remain  till  Monday. 
Mr.  Ellis,  a  new  conservative  candidate,  is  haranguing 
a  party  under  the  roof  of  this  hotel,  in  an  out-office  j 
the  maid  says,  five  thousand  gentlemen.  To  judge 
from  a  peep  that  I  have  taken,  I  should  think  a  de- 
duction of  four  thousand  seven  hundred  would  bring 


*  My  poor  friend  at  the  lodge  is  since  dead ;  or  he  would   not 
be  so  distinctly  introduced  here. 


WESTMEATH    TO   DOWN.  155 

us  nearer  the  mark.  However,  there  is  prodigious 
clapping  and  shouting ;  and  I  feel  myself  affected 
something  like  my  orange  friend  at  Dundalk — ex- 
ceedingly indisposed  to  forward  the  views  of  the  op- 
posite party.  But  I  must  close  this  long  letter;  and 
reserve  for  another  what  I  may  have  to  say  respecting 
Newry,  which  seems  worth  a  day's  investigation. 


LETTER  VII. 


COUNTY    DOWN. 


JVewry^  July. 
Once  again  I  am  brought  into  contact  with  Ireland's 
master  evil :  the  very  root  of  all  that  poisons  her 
atmosphere — the  enemy  with  whom  to  grapple  is  to 
fight  for  her;  and  to  expel  whom,  would  be  to  shed 
light  and  glory  upon  her  land.  I  say,  to  expel,  not 
to  transform  into  a  different  shape.  Satan  will  not 
cast  out  Satan ;  man  cannot.  It  is  for  the  finger  of 
God  alone  to  achieve  such  a  victory;  and  as  he  does 
nothing  in  vain  or  imperfectly,  I  confidently  say  that 
to  expel  Popery  from  Ireland  would  be  to  diffuse  light 
and  glory  where  the  blackness  of  darkness  now  reigns. 
My  spirit  has  not  been  so  stirred  within  me  since  I 
set  foot  on  these  green  shores,  as  on  the  morning  fol- 
lowing my  arrival  in  Newry.  The  Sabbath  broke  in 
unclouded  splendor,  and  I  arose  refreshed,  with  no 
other  anxiety  on  my  mind  than  to  insure  the  privilege 
of  a  gospel  ministry  during  the  day.  Requesting  an 
interview  with  the  very  gentlemanly  master  of  the 
establishment,  whose  kind  efforts  to  forward  me  on 
my  way  the  preceding  evening  I  had  duly  appreciated, 
I  inquired,  as  the  safest  guide,  what  church  Lord  Ro- 
den  attended,  when  in  Newry.    Mr.  Davis  answered 


COUNTY  DOWN.  157 

that  he  was  not  sure  ;  but  added,  that  if  I  would  ac- 
cept a  share  in  his  pew  at  St.  Patrick's  church,  he 
thought  I  should  be  well  pleased  with  Mr.  Bagot's 
successor.  In  Ireland,  morning  service  commences 
at  mid-day  ;  a  practice  that  I  do  not  at  all  approve, 
unless  an  opportunity  was  given  to  such  as  chose  it,  of 
attending  early  prayers  some  hours  previous.  W — 
being  anxious  to  enjoy  a  walk  in  the  interval,  I  agreed 
to  set  out  at  eleven,  and  we  made  a  tour  through 
streets  as  quiet  as  could  be  wished,  broad,  handsome^ 
clean,  well-paved  streets,  intersected  by  a  fine  canal, 
and  wearing,  notwithstanding  the  season  of  perfect 
rest,  such  an  aspect  as  assured  me  that  it  is  a  place 
of  thriving  activity,  trade,  and  commerce,  through  the 
week.  The  water  is  banked  in  with  very  solid  stone- 
work, everything  indicating  that  neither  cost  nor 
skill  have  been  spared  to  distinguish  the  place  by  su- 
perior advantages.  The  suburbs  appeared  most  beau- 
tiful ;  noble  hills,  rich  gardens,  and  fine  mansions 
seemed  to  embellish  it  on  all  sides  ;  and  a  more  pleas- 
ing impression  could  not  be  made  by  a  town  of  the 
same  size.  It  wants,  indeed,  the  air  of  antiquity  that 
spreads  a  halo  round  Dreghedaj  tinged  with  the  va- 
rious hues  of  many  stirring  recollections  $  but  there 
is  a  freshness  of  atmosphere,  no  less  than  of  architec- 
ture, in  Newry,  very  delightful  to  the  sense.  Neither 
are  you  to  suppose  that  it  is  altogether  of  recent 
growth ;  its  foundation  is  very  ancient,  Maurice 
McLaughlin,  king  of  all  Ireland,  having  established  a 
religious  institution  here  a  hundred  years  previous  to 
the  English  invasion ;  but  in  1689,  the  Duke  of  Ber- 
wick burned  the  town,  to  facilitate  his  retreat  before 
Duke  Schomberg,  and  Newry  arose  from  its  ashes 
U 


158  LETTER    VII. 

after  the  happy  settlement  of  the   country  in   1691, 
since  which  it  has  been  constantly  improving. 

The  spire  of  a  handsome  church  attracted  us  to 
walk  past  it ;  and  there,  just  opposite,  we  saw  a  strik- 
ing proof  of  the  retrograde  movements  which  are 
rapidly  undoing  that  work,  accomplished  at  the  cost 
of  so  much  blood  and  suffering1.  An  edifice  of  most 
imposing  character  faced,  truly  I  may  say  outfaced, 
the  parish  church :  its  use  could  not  be  mistaken  :  it 
is  the  Romish  temple,  justly  called  a  cathedral.  A 
costly  piece  of  architecture,  grand,  tasteful,  and,  alas! 
most  spacious,  yet  not  enough  so  to  contain  the  thou* 
sands  who  throng  that  scene  of  false  worship,  as  is 
clear  from  the  numbers  who  remain  excluded,  and 
whose  prostrations  in  the  open  street,  at  the  elevation 
of  an  idol  which  they  cannot  see,  vex  the  eyes  and 
grieve  the  hearts  of  all  who  love  God,  and  who  know 
what  denunciations  of  wrath  must  overhang  a  land 
where  the  woman  Jezebel  is  so  suffered,  yea,  encou- 
raged, to  teach  and  seduce  his  people.  The  doors 
were  open,  and  no  service  at  that  time  going  on  ;  and 
could  I  have  permitted  the  "  lust  of  the  eye"  so  far 
to  draw  me  aside  from  the  path  of  Christian  con- 
sistency, I  should  have  entered,  to  behold  with  what 
sumptuous  decorations  the  deceivers  and  deceived  do 
honor  to  them  that  be  no  gods  :  but  I  would  not  thus 
defile  my  conscience.  If  we  have  reason  to  hope  that 
we,  according  to  the  apostle's  language,  are  the  tem- 
ples of  God,  then  it  becomes  a  solemn  question,  how 
we  can  enter  a  place  of  idolatrous  worship  without  a 
breach  of  the  rule  laid  down  in  the  latter  part  of  the 
sixth  chapter  of  the  second  Epistle  to  the  Corinthians. 
I  have  been  told  that  my  scruple  is  new  and  singular  : 


COtfNTY    DOWN.  159 

but  although  it  Was  first  suggested  to  my  mind  by 
Scripture  alone,  I  find  it  was  held,  and  practised  too, 
by  the  confessors  and  martyrs  of  Mary's  days.  Brad- 
ford's writings,  in  particular,  abound  with  admonitions 
on  this  subject :  and  I  constantly  pray  to  be  kept 
stedfast  in  my  resolution,  never  in  any  mode  or  in  any 
sense,  to  touch  the  unclean  thing,  excepting  as  it  may 
be  needful  for  the  prosecution  of  an  incessant  warfare 
against  it.  As  to  the  splendors  of  Popish  worship,  I 
look  for  them,  not  within  the  precincts  of  their  idola- 
trous sanctuary,  but  in  the  inspired  pages.  The  cata- 
logue contained  in  the  eighteenth  chapter  of  Revela- 
tion, is  sufficient  for  me ;  and  in  that  portion  of  Scrip- 
ture, I  likewise  find  a  conclusive  reply  to  the  query, 
may  not  increasing  wealth  and  splendor,  aided  by 
intellectual  cultivation,  work  the  downfall  of  this 
blighting  superstition!  No;  for  the  word  of  God, 
which  has  so  exactly  predicted  the  rise  and  prospect 
of  the  papal  Antichrist,  is  no  less  distinct  in  describ- 
ing the  particulars  of  the  final  doom  prepared  for  the 
usurper.  We  read  not  of  a  gradual  transformation,  or 
of  any  process  by  which  the  work  is  to  be  effected, 
save  that  God's  people  will  obey  the  loud  authorita- 
tive summons  to  come  out  of  her  ;  to  be  no  longer 
"  partakers  of  her  sins,  that  they  receive  not  of  her 
plagues  ;"  and  this  obedience  to  the  gospel  call  is  the 
consuming  by  the  breath  of  the  Lord's  mouth,  of 
which  the  apostle  speaks,  a  gradual  falling  away  from 
the  doomed  body,  of  such  as  shall  be  saved.  The  end 
is  to  be  a  sudden  and  violent  destruction,  overtaking 
the  mystic  Babylon  in  the  midst  of  that  pride  of  mag- 
nificence described  in  the  former  chapter,  which  was 
ever  her  characteristic  in  the  times  of  her   former 


160  LETTER    VII. 

prosperity,  and  a  restoration  to  which  will  be  the  pre.r 
lade  of  her  final  fall.  But  while  we  lay  this  fact  to 
heart,  let  us  not  forget  the  striking  passages  that  also 
represent  the  last  attitude  of  this  destroyer — not  only 
as  sitting  in  restored  supremacy  of  elevation,  but 
drunken  again  with  the  blood  of  martyrs.  I  can  bear 
to  look  upon  such  ostentatious  indications  of  reviving 
splendor,  as  these  newly-built  mass-houses  supply, 
because  1  know  from  the  word  of  God,  that  this 
haughty  spirit  cometh  before  a  fall  ;  but  I  cannot  look 
for  a  result  that  Scripture  affords  me  not  the  slightest 
warrant  to  expect ;  and  which  history,  the  great  un- 
raveller  of  prophecy,  proves  to  have  never  yet  followed 
the  means  in  question. 

When  the  Jewish  nation  forsook  their  idolatrous 
practices,  what  did  they  become  1  Let  the  judgment 
hall  of  Pilate,  and  the  darkened  mountains  of  Calvary 
answer  :  let  the  cup  of  unmitigated  wrath  poured  out 
on  their  temple  and  city,  and  the  unrevoked  curse  of 
eighteen  centuries  resting;  on  their  nation,  bear  wit- 
ness.  When  France,  the  very  den  of  Popish  super- 
stition, and  the  throne  of  Popish  authority,  and  the 
murderous  right  hand  of  Popish  persecution,  under- 
went the  identical  process  recommended  in  our  day; 
when  the  "useful  knowledge"  system  deluged  her 
land  with  Cyclopaedias,  and  reason  took  arms  against 
bigotry,  and  the  consummation  followed  that  her  phi- 
losophizing teachers  so  devoutly  wished,  what  was  the 
nature  of  the  change — was  it  from  darkness  to  light  % 
Nay  ;  the  natural,  the  inevitable  transition  from  Popery 
to  Atheism,  deluged  first  France,  then  all  Europe,  in 
the  blood  of  its  inhabitants  ;— all  Europe,  save  one 
small  portion   of  its  territory,  where  the  citadel  of 


C0Ui\T5f   DOWN.  161 

Protestantism  remained,  and  where,  consequently,  the 
sword  of  Infidelity,  drawn  to  smite  Popery,  had  nz 
commission  to  strike. 

It  was  then  that  the  great  enemy,  baffled  in  his 
scheme  of  universal  desolation,  contrived  to  intro- 
duce the  wedge  that  should,  by  repeated  blows,  be 
driven  through  the  keystone  of  our  arcn,  and  cause 
the  towers  to  fall.  We  all  know  the  successive  mea- 
sures that  followed,  until  the  fatal  stroke  of  18*29 : 
and  now  we  behold  a  worse  symptom  than  had  ever 
before  been  manilested, — a  spirit  of  delusion  spread- 
ing among  enlightened  minds,  even  extending  to  some 
who  have  been  enlightened  by  divine  knowledge, 
which  prompts  them  to  look  on  the  most  appalling 
monuments  of  their  national  backsliding  as  so  many 
helps  to  a  future  national  prosperity,  based  on  what  is 
neither  more  nor  less  than  investing:  Satan  with  the 
character  and  office  of  a  missionary ;  expecting  that, 
by  means  of  the  lust  of  the  flesh,  the  lust  of  the  eye, 
and  the  pride  of  life,  he  will  be  able — and  it  seems  to 
be  taken  for  granted  that  he  is  also  willing — to  con- 
vert sinners  from  the  error  of  their  way,  and  to  extend 
the  bounds  of  the  Redeemer's  kingdom. 

With  an  aching  heart  I  looked  upon  the  edifice 
where  thousands  of  my  fellow-creatures  were  doomed 
during  the  Sabbath  to  receive,  in  blind  submission,  the 
false  doctrine  of  their  blind  teachers.  I  felt  that, 
without  a  fearful  dereliction  of  duty  in  some  quarters> 
such  a  spectacle  could  not  be  permitted  to  present 
itself  in  the  British  dominions  three  hundred  years 
after  the  blessed  Reformation — a  century  and  a  half 
after  the  defeat  of  James  Stuart,  and  the  establish 
ment  of  Protestant  ascendency  on  this  very  soil.  M 
14* 


J  62  LETTER    VII. 

the  same  time  I  fully  anticipated,  in  the  just  judgment 
of  God,  an  extensive  visitation  on  our  native  shores 
of  the  pestilence  that  we  had  neglected  to  eradicate 
from  those  of  our  sister  island.  Sad,  and  deeply 
humbled  in  spirit  for  the  sin  of  my  own  country,  I 
returned  to  the  hotel,  and,  accompanied  by  some  of 
the  kind  family,  proceeded  to  St.  Patrick's  church. 

The  way  was  laborious,  being  for  the  most  part  a 
continued  ascent ;  and  I  found  that  we  were  approach- 
ing the  structure  perched  on  a  hill,  the  elevated  posi- 
tion of  which  had  arrested  my  attention  on  the  pre- 
vious evening.  This,  they  told  me,  was  the  first 
church  built  or  used,  in  Ireland,  for  the  pure  worship 
of  the  Protestant  faith ;  though  I  well  knew  that 
what  is  considered  the  introduction  was  but  the  restor- 
ation of  the  true  Church  in  this  country.  St.  Pat- 
rick's is  a  simple,  unadorned  edifice,  of  moderate 
size;  the  congregation  numerous,  highly  respectable, 
and  seemingly  devout.  The  whole  service  was  per- 
formed by  one  minister,  who  also  preached  ;  and,  privi- 
leged as  I  have  been  in  that  way,  I  was  unusually 
struck  by  the  powerful  eloquence  which  the  young 
divine  addressed  to  us  from  that  beautiful  passage, 
"  Come  from  the  four  winds,  0  Breath  5  and  breathe 
upon  these  slain,  that  they  may  Jive."  His  object 
was,  to  enforce  the  necessity  of  Divine  agency  in  giv- 
ing spiritual  life  to  a  being  naturally  and  judicially 
dead  in  trespasses  and  sins :  and  this  he  did  in  a  strain 
of  singular  force  and  conclusiveness,  clothed  in  ele- 
gant language.  I  was  delighted,  refreshed,  and  so  far 
emboldened  as  to  venture  upon  a  proceeding  that  you 
will  perhaps  think  required  no  small  share  of  assur- 
ance to  accomplish  it.     I  went  into  the  vestry,  ac- 


COUNTY    DOWN.  163 

costed  the  clergyman,  and   stating  that  I  wished  to 
improve  my  involuntary  delay  in  Newry  by  examining 
some  of  the  scriptural  schools,  I  asked  his  permission  to 
visit  those  of  his  parish.  With  much  courtesy,  accompa- 
nied with  commendable  reserve,  he  gave  me  a  reply  that 
seemed  to  invite  a  more  explanatory  rejoinder ;  and  I 
felt  myself  in  an  awkward  predicament,  as  having  no 
sort  of  introduction  or  certificate  of  character  to  war- 
rant such  an  application.     I  might  be  some  envoy  from 
Rome,  or  some  experimentalizing  political  economist, 
seeking  occasion  to  introduce  maxims  of  false  philo- 
sophy, or  "  useful  knowledge"  systems  of  anti-hiblical 
expediency.     I  therefore  was  obliged  to  advance   a 
plea  of  extenuation  for  my  curiosity,  by  alluding  to 
suntlry  penny  books  with  which  I  had  from  time  to 
time  burdened  the   shelves   of  Ireland's  schools.     Oh 
what  a  sunbeam   of  benevolent  pleasure  enlightened 
his  animated  countenance  !     These  dear  ministers  of 
God  do  not  despise  the  humblest  vine-dresser  in  their 
Master's   service.     Regretting  that   an  indispensable 
engagement  prevented  his  accompanying  me,  Mr.  P 
directed  the  clerk  to  attend  me   to  the  school,  and, 
cordially  extending  the  right  hand  of  fellowship,  took 
a   most   friendly    leave.     You    cannot   imagine    how 
cheering  this  little  incident  was  to  me:  for  it  seemed 
strange  to  be  so  cast  adrift  for  long  days  together,  with- 
out seeing  the  face  of  a  friend,  in  my  beloved  Ireland. 
The   girl's    school  was  large,    well    attended,  and 
beautifully  managed ;  but    I   could   not    remain  long 
enough   to    investigate  the  plan   of  teaching,   as  we 
were  to  dine  between  the  services.     I   therefore   left 
the  ladies,   whose   kindness  was  unbounded,  and   re- 
paired to  my  hotel.     Shall  I  confess  to  you,  that  be- 


164?  LETTER  VII. 

fore  we  reached  it  every  other  feeling  had  given  place 
to  one  of  powerful  indignation!  Our  way  was  imped- 
ed by  the  march  of  a  large  body  of  troops,  dragoons, 
fully  armed,  and  altogether  in   battle  array,  on  their 
return  from  the  more   northern  stations  where  they 
had   been   sent,  gratuitously  to  insult  the  feelings   of 
a  loyal  Protestant  population,  and  to  afford  a  v/anton 
triumph  to  the  real  movers  of  sedition  in  this  wretch- 
edly misgoverned  land.     At  any  time,  under  any  cir- 
cumstances,  such  a   parade   of  armed   troops  would 
have  appeared  unseemly  on  the  Lord's  day  :  but  when 
I   considered  the    purpose  for  which  they  had  been 
marched,   the  expedition  from  which  they  were  re- 
turning, the  place  where  we  met — for  I  have  already 
noticed  that  Newry  was  formerly  destroyed   by   the 
Popish  forces,  rebuilt,  and  elevated  to  its  present  im- 
portance by  Protestant  capital,  enterprise,  and  integ- 
rity,— it  recalled  with  double  poignancy  my  morning 
reflections   beneath  the  walls  of  that  vaunting  mass- 
house.     I  felt  that  to   encourage   Romanism  was  not 
deemed  sufficient,  unless  insult  was  superadded  to  the 
injuries  systematically  inflicted   on  the  Protestants: 
and  while  anticipating  the  disastrous  results  to  be  ex- 
pected from  so  erroneous,  so  ungrateful,  so  unscriptu- 
ral  a  plan  of  government,  I  could  not  but  secretly  ac- 
quiesce in  the  retributive  justice   of  what  I  foresaw 
and  deprecated.     Irish  Protestants  will  not  become 
rebels  ;  but  wo  to  the  rulers  who  alienate  their  hon- 
est, unbought,  high-principled  attachment! 

The  early  afternoon  service  drew  us  speedily  back 
to  St.  Patrick's ;  and  very  sweet  was  the  smile  of  in- 
vitation with  which  pew-doors  were  silently  thrown 
open  as  we  passed  along.     They  alone   who  are  en- 


COUNTY    DOWN.  165 

camped  in  the  midst  of  a  hostile  force  can  compre- 
hend the  strength  of  the  tie  which  unites  the  indivi- 
duals, who,  marshalled  under  one  Captain,  desire  to  be 
found  faithful  in  the  glorious  cause.  Among  my  fel- 
low-worshippers there  was  not  one  whose  face  I  had 
ever  seen  before  that  day,  or  was  likely  ever  to  see 
again  in  the  flesh  ;  yet  my  heart  acknowledged  them 
all,  as  brethren  and  sisters  in  the  profession,  many  in 
the  reality,  of  a  faith  that  has  before  been  frequently 
tried  as  by  fire,  and  will  yet  be  in  the  furnace  again 
ere  long.  Another  fine  discourse  from  Mr.  P.,  on  the 
treachery  of  Judas,  closed  the  day's  services  ;  and 
then  ensued  an  Irish  scene.  Between  the  church- 
door  and  the  outer  gate,  we  were  assailed  with  invi- 
tations to  accompany  the  kind  individuals  to  their 
homes  ;  and  all  given  with  a  courtesy  so  graceful,  so 
gentle,  so  dignified  in  the  midst  of  its  cordiality,  that 
it  was  downright  painful  to  say  no  to  any  of  them ; 
but  one  of  my  fair  acquaintances  among  the  lady  ma- 
nagers of  the  girls'  Sunday-school  had  been  before- 
hand with  her  frank  offer  of  a  seat  at  her  mother's  tea- 
table  ;  and  I  was  more  pleased  than  surprised  to  find 
the  invitation  extended  to  the  other  hospitable  inviters, 
including  my  first  acquaintance,  the  young  pastor 
himself. 

]  could  find  in  my  heart  to  give  you  a  description 
of  the  scene — the  pretty  cottage  in  its  retired  nook, 
nestling  beneath  a  high  wall,  in  a  sweet  little  garden  ; 
the  very  long,  narrow,  and  not  very  lofty  apartment, 
its  row  of  old-fashioned  windows,  square  and  de^  p- 
set,  each  containing  some  flowering-plant  or  freshly- 
culled  boquet ;  the  elders  of  the  family  looking  the 
heart-warm  welcome  even  more  eloquently  than  they 


16b*  LETTER    VII. 

spoke  it  ;  the  pleasant,  unceremonious  tea-table  ;  with 
an  accession  of  smiling-  faces  perpetually  dropping  in, 
I  knew  not  how  nor  whence,  much  less  could  I  per- 
suade myself  that  any  among  them  were  strange  faces 
tome.  The  clergyman  of  the  church  that  is  fronted 
by  the  gorgeous  temple  of  Romanism  was  among 
these  ;  and  very  rarely  have  I  so  enjoyed  a  party  as 
1  did  that  unexpected  assemblage  in  the  place  where, 
but  a  few  hours  before,  I  had  felt  absolutely  forlorn— 
unowned,  and  uncared  for.  My  more  recent  clerical 
acquaintance  engaged  us  for  the  morrow's  breakfast; 
and  when  a  kind  and  numerous  escort  finally  left  us  at 
the  King's  Arms,  it  was  no  easy  matter  to  close  the 
animating  theme  that  engrossed  my  young  compa- 
nion's mind  equally  with  my  own. 

But,  alas !  the  bright  picture  of  Christian  zeal  and 
diligence  inNewry  is  deeply  shadowed  with  that  omi- 
nous, unwelcome  appendage, — the  new  National  Edu- 
cation system.  I  have  not,  as  yet,  fallen  in  with  a 
single  individual  of  either  sex,  from  Waterford  to 
Newry,  who  does  not  denounce  it  as  a  curse  to  the 
land.  In  Dublin  I  saw  the  immense  building,  or  rather 
palace,  that  they  are  preparing  for  the  Central  Board  ; 
but  I  had  neither  leisure  nor  inclination  to  turn  my 
attention  from  better  things  to  that  mischievous  insti- 
tution.  In  Newry  the  plan  is  vigorously  pursued,  un- 
der the  special  patronage  of  priests  and  nuns :  and  a 
few  plain  facts  in  reference  to  this  place  may  give  you 
an  idea  of  the  reasonableness  of  the  hope  indulged  by 
some,  that  Popery  will  be  undermined  by  such  a  sys- 
tem. You  know  the  ostensible  purpose  of  these 
schools  is  to  provide  a  strict  neutral  ground,  on  which 
the  children   of  both  parties   can  meet,  without  any 


COUNTY    DOWN.  167 

danger  of  either  being  influenced  in  away  contrary  to 
the  wishes  of  their  parents.  The  necessity  for  such 
a  plan  is  stated  to  have  arisen  from  the  objections 
raised  by  the  poor  people  against  having  their  little 
ones  taught  to  read  the  word  of  God  ;  and  the  nota- 
ble device  agreed  upon  was,  that  religious  instruction 
of  all  descriptions  should  be  excluded  from  the 
schools,  except  at  particular  hours,  on  a  stated  day  in 
the  week,  when  a  separation  was  to  be  carefully  made, 
the  children  of  the  Romanists  to  be  taught  according 
to  the  doctrines  of  Popery  by  their  peculiar  guides, 
and  those  of  Protestants  allowed  to  receive  scriptural 
instruction  from  any  clergyman  who  might  choose  to 
give  it.  Well,  this  looked  plausible  in  the  eyes  of 
that  class  called  liberal,  and  even  deceived  some  really 
good  people.  How  do  you  suppose  it  is  carried  into 
effect  here  ?  The  National  School  for  girls  adjoins 
the  convent, — the  usual  entrance  being  through  that 
building,  with  another  door  on  a  line  with  the  nunnery 
hall-door,  and  within  its  precincts.  The  teachers  are 
all  nuns,  habited  in  the  most  remarkable  and  extreme 
dress  of  a  monastic  order,  robes,  rosaries,  and  all  the 
awful  paraphernalia  of  the  black  sisters.  No  Protest- 
ant visitor  can  enter  this  "  public  school,"  without  be- 
ing previously  examined,  and  kept  waiting  sufficiently 
long  to  put  aside  objectionable  books  j  but  in  spite  of 
every  precaution  it  has  been  ascertained,  and  proved 
too  upon  oath,  that  at  all  hours  bigoted  catechisms 
of  the  Romish  church  are  in  use,  being  regularly 
taught  by  the  nuns  ;  and  books  of  the  most  pernicious 
tendency  have  been  found  in  the  hands  of  the  chil- 
dren.*    Attempts  are  continually  made  to  induce  the 

*  See  Appendix  E. 


168  LETTER  VII. 

Protestant  pupils  to  join  in  these  exercises,  by  intro- 
ducing them  during-  the  period  avowedly  set  apart  for 
secular  study  :  and  the  consequence  is  that  all  their 
parents  who  do  not  value  a  little  paltry  and  most  mi- 
serably inferior  education  for  their  children  before  the 
salvation  of  their  souls,  are  obliged  to  withdraw  them 
Consequently  the  national  grant,  with  all  the  vast  and 
costly  machinery  of  this  deceitful  system,  is  employ- 
ed in  riveting  the  fetters  of  spiritual  bondage  on  these 
poor  little  creatures,  by  the  hands  of  male  and  female 
ecclesiastics  of  the  Romish  creed.  What  renders  the 
whole  thing  most  inexcusable  is,  that  by  a  rule  of  the 
board  the  regular  daily  teachers  must  belong  to  the 
laity,  while  here,  as  in  Galway,  and  innumerable  other 
places,  professed  nuns  are  the  sole  and  exclusive  con- 
ductors of  the  whole  business  of  the  girls'  schools ; 
as  monks,  regularly  habited,  and  belonging  to  the  va- 
rious orders,  Dominican,  Franciscan,  Carmelite,  black, 
grey,  and  so  forth,  are  of  the  boys.  It  is  common  to 
have  a  small  sliding  panel  in  the  doors,  which  are  kept 
locked  :  when  a  visitor  knocks,  the  master  partially 
withdraws  the  slide,  takes  a  survey,  asks  questions, 
then  refastens  his  panel,  and  puts  away  whatever 
books  he  does  not  wish  to  expose  to  the  prying  gaze 
of  a  heretic,  before  the  door  is  opened.  I  will  give 
you  an  extract  from  a  book  studied  by  the  children  in 
the  nun's  National  School  here  in  Newry,  that  you 
may  duly  appreciate  the  "useful knowledge,"  instilled 
into  the  minds  of  the  pupils,  and  admire  the  strict  ad- 
herence of  the  Board  to  its  first  great  principles  of 
total  abstinence  from  all  that  can  offend  the  conscien- 
ces of  any  class.  Here  it  is — the  work  is  entitled 
"Indulgences  granted  by  the  sovereign  Pontiffs  to  the 


COUNTY    DOWN.  169 

faithful  who  perform  the  devotions  and  pious  works 
prescribed."  Printed  by  and  for  "the  Catholic  Book 
Society  ;"  and.  it  was  found  among  the  books  for 
united  instruction — that  is,  for  instruction  totally  un- 
connected with  anything  religious,  during  the  hours 
when,  on  the  faith  of  this  exclusion  of  all  that  could 
bias  the  minds  of  the  children  either  way,  all  are  min-^ 
gled  together.  As  a  specimen  of  the  valuable  infor- 
mation contained  in  the  volume,  and  its  freedom  from 
all  obnoxious  subjects,  take  the  following:  "  By  a  ple- 
nary indulgence  we  gain  the  remission  of  all  the  pun- 
ishment which  remains  due  to  sins  forgiven,  provided 
we  have  the  proper  dispositions,  and  comply  with  the 
conditions  required."  These  conditions  are  thus  ex- 
plained:  "It  is  enjoined  to  visit  a  church,  and  pray 
according  to  the  pious  intentions  of  the  sovereign 
Pontiff."  These  intentions  are  again  described  a  little 
farther  on :  "  The  intentions  of  the  Pope  are  generally 
these  ;  the  exaltation  of  the  Catholic  church,  the  pro- 
pagation of  our  holy  faith,  peace  and  concord  among 
Christian  kings  and  princes,  and  the  extirpation  of 
heresy."  Now,  not  to  mention  the  importance  of 
communicating  such  knowledge  to  the  Protestant 
children  ;  what  think  you  of  a  plan  that  supplies  the 
monks  and  nuns  with  means  to  diffuse  it  among  the 
little  ones  of  their  own  flock  1  The  concluding-  ex- 
pression,  too,  conveys  an  early  lesson  of  fearful  im- 
port:  the  lower  order  of  the  Irish  know  of  no  other 
mode  of  extirpating  heresy  than  by  draining  it  out 
with  the  life-blood  from  Protestant  veins.  It  was  the 
war-cry  of  the  sacerdotal  warriors,  who  in  1798  led 
their  people  to  the  attack ;  and  whatever  spiritual 
meaning  it  may  be  intended  to  convey  to  the  minds 
15 


170  LETTER  VII. 

of  the  pupils,  the  idea  with  which  they  are  certain 
to  connect  it  is  that  of  slaughtering  their  fellow- 
creatures. 

Another  instance  of  the  power  enjoyed  and  exer- 
cised by  the  inferior  officials  of  this  Board  appears  in 
the  fact  that,  although  the  exclusion  of  religious  in- 
struction except  on  the  appointed  day  is  publicly 
boasted  of  by  its  advocates  as  the  one  all-sufficient 
guarantee  against  the  communication  of  anything  to 
the  children  which  their  parents  would  not  approve, 
in  this  very  school  the  nuns  possess  a  distinct  per- 
mission in  the  Inspector's  hand-writing,  for  imparting 
religious  instruction  every  day.  The  excuse  offered 
for  this  is,  that  no  Protestant  children  attend  the  school ; 
which  again  proves  that  the  public  money  is  with- 
drawn from  scriptural  institutions,  when  all  denomina- 
tions alike  drank  at  the  pure  fountain  of  truth, 
unadulterated  by  man's  inventions,  to  be  placed  at  the 
disposal  of  those  whose  existence  as  a  church  and 
community  depends  on  their  keeping  the  people  in 
ignorance  and  error :  and  who  do  actually  employ  it 
for  that  purpose,  to  the  exclusion  of  the  offspring  of 
a  loyal  Protestant  population.  Do  you  not  suppose  it 
must  be  a  startling  thing  to  those  who  have  had  such 
fearful  experience  of  the  temper  of  Popery  towards 
themselves,  to  send  their  little  ones  within  the  very 
walls  of  a  convent,  to  be  taught  exclusively  by  females 
habited  in  so  strangely  imposing  a  manner,  who 
firmly  believe  that  all  must  be  eternally  lost  who  do 
not  embrace  the  delusions  of  popery.  I  have  alluded 
to  the  dress — we  are  all  influenced  by  externals,  chil- 
dren especially  so,  and  you  may  imagine  the  effect 
likely  to  be  produced  on  the  mind  of  a  little  ignorant 


COUNTY    DOWN.  171 

timid  creature  by  the  appearance  of  a  teacher,  whose 
sedate  severe  aspect,  and  stiff  practised  solemnity  of 
manner  are  further  enhanced  by  the  following  garb. 
A  loose  robe,  with  a  flowing  train,  formed  of  the 
blackest  serge  ;  the  bust  being  enveloped  in  a  peculiar 
wrapper  of  white  cotton,  somewhat  between  a  &hawl 
and  a  tippet.  A  cap  or  hood  close,  and  so  drawn 
down  on  the  sides  as  to  perform  the  same  office  as 
blinkers  to  a  horse  ;  while  the  small  portion  of  face 
thus  left  open  to  view  is  farther  curtailed  by  an 
enormous  neckcloth,  covering  the  chin,  and  meeting 
the  aforesaid  wrapper.  In  fact,  nothing  can  approach 
nearer  to  the  grim  effect  of  old-fashiohed  grave- 
clothes.  Several  of  these  apparitions,  each  with  an 
hour-glass  in  her  hand,  a  black  rosary  and  crucifix 
depending  from  the  leathern  girdle  that  confines  her 
waist,  and  a  black  riband  beside  it,  with  an  image  of 
the  virgin  and  child,  are  to  be  seen  daily  in  the  school- 
house,  the  sole  teachers  and  managers,  moving  up 
and  down  among  the  awe-stricken  little  ones,  and 
bringing  all  these  striking  externals  to  bear  upon  the 
doctrines  which  they  inculcate,  and  of  which  you 
have  a  sample  in  the  foregoing  extract.*  Such  is  my 
solicitude  for  the  deliverance  of  those  poor  Irish 
children  of  the  Romish  persuasion  from  the  deep  and 
fatal  darkness  surounding  them,  that  I  would  cheer- 
fully relinquish  every  shilling  of  the  national  grant  to 
their  service  alone,  trusting  to  private  liberality  for 


*  All  this  was  being  given  in  evidence  on  oath,  before  the  Com- 
mittee of  the  House  of  Lords,  at  the  very  time  I  was  in  Newry. 
It  is  now  published,  and  may  be  seen  in  the  report  of  the  exam- 
ination of  Hon.  Capt.  Wellesley  and  Rev.  L.  H.  Robinson. 


172  LETTER    VII. 

for  the  means  of  educating  the  Protestant  class.  But 
is  it  not  frightful  to  see  the  latter  deluded,  except  sa 
far  as  the  watchfulness  of  their  parents  may  keep 
them  from  these  schools,  into  sharing  the  deadly 
poison  thus  administered  to  the  minds  of  the  poor 
little  Romanists  %  It  will  be  a  terrible  thing  for  Eng- 
land when  in  her  skirts  is  found  the  blood  of  the  souls 
of  these  poor  innocents.  What  a  strikingly  applica- 
ble passage  is  that  to  which  1  allude,  Jer.  ii.  34 — "I 
have  not  found  it  by  secret  search  but  upon  all  these." 
This  national  Board  plan  is  not  a  sin  of  mere  passive 
connivance,  where  abuses  may  creep  in  unprovided 
against,  because  unexpected  :  it  is  a  sin  of  which  the 
government  vaunts,  an  offence  in  which  the  perpetra- 
tors glory,  a  confederacy  deliberately  entered  into 
with  Popery  and  Infidelity,  to  secure  their  present 
possessions  against  the  intrusive  claims  of  the  Lord 
Jesus  Christ.  He  comes  to  seek  and  to  save  his  lost 
sheep  :  they  build  an  enclosure,  shut  in  the  poor 
victims,  and  place  a  guard  of  wolves  to  watch  their 
fold.  I  could  not  bear  the  spectacle,  had  I  not  that 
glorious  promise  ever  before  me,  given  by  him  who 
most  assuredly  will  fulfil  every  tittle  of  his  own  word 
Let  earth  and  hell  combine  ;  let  all  the  enemies  of 
Christ  unite  their  efforts,  and  some  of  his  friends 
abandon  their  Master's  cause,  to  bless  that  which  he 
has  cursed,  and  to  build  up  that  which  he  has  sworn 
shall  fall ;  yet  can  they  not  avert  the  coming  hour,  when 
he  who  has  spoken  will  also  make  it  good.  "  I  will 
seek  that  which  was  lost,  and  bring  again  that  which 
was  driven  away,  and  will  bind  up  that  which  was 
broken,  and  will  strengthen  that  which  was  sick,  but 
I  will  destroy  the  fat  and   the    strong ;  I  will   feed 


COUNTY  DOWN.  173 

them  with  judgment. "  That  thirty-fourth  chapter  of 
Ezekiel  will  yet  be  felt  in  all  its  awful  applicability, 
by  those  who  so  justly  incur  the  rebuke.  "  Seemeth 
it  a  small  thing  unto  you,  to  have  eaten  up  the  good 
pasture,  but  ye  must  tread  down  with  your  feet  the 
residue  of  your  pastures'?  and  to  have  drunk  of  the 
deep  waters,  but  you  must  foul  the  residue  with  your 
feetV' 

It  is  a  common  device  to  throw  the  whole  blame  of 
this  ruinous  system  upon  Lord  Stanley.  He  is  so  far 
blameable,  in  that  he  rashly  adopted  a  plan  without 
properly  acquainting  himself  with  the  peculiarities  of 
the  place  where,  and  the  people  on  whom  it  was 
to  be  tried.  Seated  in  Dublin  Castle,  and  beguiled 
with  a  beautiful  vision  of  liberality,  he  listened  with 
the  heart  of  a  philanthropist  to  the  representations 
of  others,  who  knew  what  they  were  about  far  better 
than  he  did.  The  result  was  a  sketch  of  a  general 
system  of  education,  to  unite  all  classes,  which  might 
have  suited  the  exigencies  of  a  case  where  the  inha- 
bitants were  squabbling  about  church  discipline,  and 
mere  external  forms,  although  the  exclusion  of  the 
Bible  at  any  time,  or  under  any  circumstances,  would 
have  been  unjustifiable — in  such  a  case  quite  needless 
too  :  but  Lord  Stanley  never  studied  Popery,  as  de- 
veloped in  the  word  of  God,  nor  priestly  influence  as 
exhibited  in  Romish  chapels,  in  the  confessional,  and 
in  the  treasonable  outbreaks  amonor  the  lower  orders 
of  laity  that  invariably  follow  any  particular  stir  in 
the  superior  ecclesiastical  departments.*  Lord  Stan- 
ley thought  he  had  found  a  remedy  for  evils  that  he 

*  See  Appendix  F. 
15* 


174  LETTER    VII. 

sincerely  deplored,  and  with  benevolent  zeal  he  has- 
tened to  apply  it,  still  declaring  that  it  was  but  an 
experimental  attempt.  He  ought  to  have  tried  it  on 
a  small  scale,  to  a  limited  extent,  but  that  would  not 
have  answered  the  purposes  of  the  artful  suggesters. 
They  hailed  his  proposition  with  what  seemed  a  gen- 
eral burst  of  grateful  acclaim  from  every  corner  of 
the  land  ;  and  having  thus  availed  themselves  of  his 
united  advantages,  his  benevolence,  talent,  prompti- 
tude, and  authority,  they  persuaded  him  to  launch 
their  vessel,  then  hoisted  piratical  colors,  stood  out 
to  sea,  and  threw  upon  him  the  blame  of  all  the  mis- 
chief they  intended  to  do. 

Besides,  exceptionable  as  was  Lord  Stanley*s  plan, 
they  rendered  it  ten  times  worse  than  he  had  any 
suspicion  of  its  being  possible  to  make  it.  Every 
latent  germ  of  mischief  they  have  forced  forward  into 
the  most  luxuriant  fructification  of  evil :  every  sup- 
posed safeguard  against  abuse  they  have  set  at  naught, 
and  openly  done  away  with.  They  have  made  it  so 
wholly  and  hopelessly  pernicious,  that  scarcely  a 
Protestant  clergyman  can  be  found  willing  to  com- 
promise his  principles  by  attending  at  the  permitted 
seasons  to  instruct  those  of  his  own  flock :  preferring 
to  squeeze  from  a  diminished  income,  and  to  solicit 
from  Christian  friends,  the  means  of  providing  them 
with  scriptural  instruction,  apart  from  these  poisoned 
streams.  I  have  named  only  the  Girls'  School  in 
Newry,  nestled  as  it  is  under  the  fostering  wing  of 
the  nunnery,  and  wholly  monopolized  by  the  veiled 
sisters  of  the  order  therein  secluded.  The  Boys' 
School  contains  twenty  Protestants ;  and  there  the 
absence  of  ecclesiastical  teachers  is  compensated  for 


COUiNTY    DOWN. 


175 


Mi  a  singular  way.  The  spelling-book  used  by  the 
children  has  the  usual  columns  on  one  page,  and  on 
the  opposite  page  the  catechism  of  the  Romish  Church. 
This  is  studied  of  course,  during  the  hours  of  general 
instruction,  and  it  affords  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
specimens  of  Jesuitical  ingenuity  on  the  one  side,  on 
the  other  of  criminal  negligence,  if  not  of  more  cri- 
minal connivance,  and  on  both  of  utter  contempt  for 
the  pledge  given  to  the  public,  that  ever  I  met  with. 
In  fact,  the  sole  object  in  these  schools  is  wholly  to 
fill  the  minds  of  the  poor  little  Romanists  with  the 
most  fearful  errors,  and  darkest  prejudices  of  the 
apostate  church,  while  the  snare  is  set  to  take  as 
many  Protestants  within  its  deadly  hold  as  may  wan- 
der unwittingly  into  the  paths  of  destruction.  There 
is  not,  in  the  entire  plan,  as  now  developed,  one  re- 
deeming point.  The  teaching  ordinarily  afforded  is 
rarely  if  ever  equal  to  what  the  old  hedge-schools  of 
the  land  supplied  ;  and  the  book  of  extracts,  given  in 
lieu  of  the  whole  word  of  God,  is  not  only  a  mutila- 
tion of  Scripture,  but  an  unfaithful  translation — not 
only  unfaithful  to  the  inspired  original,  but  in  all  the 
cases  of  its  variation  from  the  authorized  version  it 
openly  and  grossly  favors  popery,  by  adopting  that 
of  the  Douay  or  Rhemish,  and  often  inculcating  its 
worst  dogmas.  I  promised  to  make  no  vague  unsup- 
ported charges  ;  take  then  the  following  specimens. 
You  will  probably  have  heard  much  of  the  famous 
note,  Ipsa,  but  may  not  exactly  know  what  it  is  :  the 
passage  occurs  in  Genesis  iii.*  15,  where  our  version 
thus  gives  it — "  And  I  will  put  enmity  between  thee 
and  the  woman,  and  between  thy  seed  and  her  seepV-r- 
it  shall  bruise  thy  head,  and  thou  shalt  bruise  his 


176  LETTER   VII. 

heel."  The  Douay  translates  it — "  she  shall  crush 
thy  head,  and  thou  shalt  lie  in  wait  for  his  heel  :" 
avowedly  applying  it  to  Mary.  This  was  going  too 
far  ;  so  the  Lesson-book  or  Extracts  has  it — "  It  shall 
crush  thy  head,  and  thou  shalt  lie  in  wait  for  hi3 
heel."  But  at  the  same  time  this  note  taken  from  the 
Douay  version  is  appended  to  the  page.  "It  shall 
crush,  &c,  ipsa,  she,  the  woman ;  so  divers  of  the 
fathers  read  this  place  conformably  to  the  Latin. 
Others  read  ipsum,  viz.  the  seed.  The  sense  is  the 
same,  for  it  is  by  her  seed,  Jesus  Christ,  that  the  wo- 
man crushes  the  serpent's  head."  In  further  illustra 
tion  of  the  meaning  attached  to  this  note,  you  must 
observe  that  a  print  Very  common  among  the  numer- 
ous representations  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  known 
to  almost  every  child  in  the  Romish  church,  shows 
her  with  her  foot  placed  on  the  head  of  the  serpent. 
The  wicked  dishonesty  Of  this  note,  as  introduced 
here,  is  manifold.  Not  only  is  full  countenance 
given  to  the  idolatrous  worship  of  the  Virgin  Mary, 
by  recognizing  her  as  the  conqueror  of  hell  while  her 
Son  is  made  a  mere  agent  in  the  work  :  there  is  a 
farther  treachery  in  admitting  what  every  scholar 
must  know  is  a  false  translation,  as  being  sanctioned 
by  "  divers  of  the  fathers."  Everybody  knows  that 
Hebrew  is  the  original  tongue  of  the  Pentateuch  :  and 
in  that  the  verb  being  masculine  cannot  agree  with  a 
feminine  pronoun ;  neither  does  the  Septuagint,  the 
Chaldee,  the  Samaritan,  or  the  Syriac  admit  it.  The 
commissioners,  therefore,  have  gone  needlessly  and 
altogether  out  of  the  way,  to  place  this  Latin  author 
ity,  false  as  it  is,  in  the  hands  of  the  Romish  teachers 


COUNTY   DOWN.  177 

to  whom  the  office  of  explaining  the  lessons  is  usually 
committed. 

But  there  is  another  more  flagrant  instance  of 
direct  encouragement  to  the  practice  of  antichristian 
adoration  of  Mary.  You  are  aware  that  the  most 
indispensable  part  of  every  office  performed  in  that 
church  is  the  "Ave"  or  "Hail  Mary."  It  forms, 
with  the  creed  and  the  paternoster,  a  component  part 
even  of  the  shortest  service  of  devotion  ;  and  where 
time  will  admit  but  of  one,  the  Hail  Mary  is  always 
selected.  It  is  the  first  act  of  worship  that  the  child 
learns  to  lisp  ;  the  last  aspiration  that  falters  on  the 
dying  lip.  By  the  addition  of  a  few  words  to  the 
angel's  salutation,  it  forms  an  express,  unequivocal 
prayer  to  the  woman.  How  do  you  think  the  com- 
missioners have  contrived  to  give  the  Eomish  children 
an  opportunity  of  reciting,  and  the  Protestants  of 
hearing,  if  not  of  joining  in  this  purely  idolatrous 
supplication  1  Pray  mark  it  well.  The  plan  of  the 
"  extracts"  is  to  give  chapters  for  reading  ;  and  at  the 
end  of  each  a  string  of  printed  questions,  to  be  put 
by  the  master,  and  answered  by  the  children.  With 
that  sort  of  ingenuousness  and  veracity  which  shine 
throughout  the  work,  the  preface  informs  us  that  the 
whole  gospel  of  St.  Luke  is  contained  in  this  number; 
whereas  in  the  first  chapter,  ten  consecutive  verses 
are  omitted,  and  a  short  paraphrase  supplies  their 
place.  Among  these  ten  verses  is  the  salutation  of 
the  angel  to  Mary. 

Now,  observe.  In  the  list  of  questions  printed  at 
the  end  of  this  lesson,  the  following  occurs — "  How 
did  the  angel  address  her  ?"  The  child  has  not  been 
allowed  to  see  the  actual  address:   it  is  omitted.     He 


178  LETTER    VII. 

has  no  access  to  the  unmutilated  word  of  God  :  he 
cannot  answer,  "  Hail  Mary,  thou  that  art  highly- 
favored  ;  the  Lord  is  with  thee :  blessed  art  thou 
among  women."  But  his  memory  immediately  sup- 
plies him  with  what  hi  is  taught  to  recite  daily,  at 
home  and  in  chapel,  under  the  title  of  the  angelical 
salutation,  and  he  promptly  repeats,  "  Hail  Mary,  full 
of  grace,  our  Lord  is  with  thee  :  blessed  art  thou 
among  women,  and  blessed  is  the  fruit  of  thy  womb, 
Jesus :  Holy  Mary,  Mother  of  God,  pray  for  us 
sinners,  now  and  at  the  hour  of  our  death.     Amen.  * 

I  will  not  go  beyond  this  ;  I  solemnly  declare  my 
conviction  that  if  this  be  intentionally  done,  it  ought 
to  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  deadliest  sins  ever  com- 
mitted against  the  majesty  of  the  God  of  truth.  ffo 
avoid  giving  offence  to  the  poor  deluded  Romanist,  a 
passage  is  omitted  which  would  at  once  and  plainly 
show  him  the  testimony  of  the  Holy  Ghost  against 
his  most  habitual  act  of  idolatrous  worship;  and  he  is 
encouraged  to  believe  that  the  Bible  sanctions  it. 
Not  only  is  the  blind  led  further  out  of  his  way,  but 
he  is  taught  to  consider  that  his  leader  into  the  paths 
of  destruction  is  the  infallible  word  of  God  Popery 
advances  her  false  doctrines  by  haughtily  setting  the 
scriptures  altogether  aside  ;  but  give  her  the  aid  of 
Socinian  craft  and  Liberal  recklessness,  they  will 
devise  a  plan  among  them  that  shall  make  the  whole 
fraternity  of  Jesuits  wonder  at  their  own  simplicity 
and  straight-forwardness.  I  have  guarded  these 
remarks  by  the  clause,  //  this  be  intentional :  if  it  be 
not,  we  shall  see  very  shortly  the  impression  called  in, 
and  another  issued,  from  which  the  foregoing,  and 
the  various  passages  that  favor  purgatory,  transub- 


COUNTY   DOWN.  179 

stantiation,  and  justification  by  man's  meritorious 
works — all  fully  exposed  by  Dr.  Newland  and  others 
— will  be  altered  or  omitted  ;  otherwise  the  stigma 
must  remain,  and  the  guilt  rest  on  the  heads  of  those 
who  have  to  answer  for  it.  A  Romanist,  officiating  as 
teacher,  would  not,  if  he  could,  explain  to  the  chil- 
dren the  mistakes  into  which  this  treacherous  book  of 
extracts  must  lead  them ;  a  Protestant  dares  not. 
The  priest  would  immediately  discover  it,  and  inform 
against  the  offender.  Besides,  the  masters  are  re- 
stricted to  the  very  miserable,  unmeaning  categories 
appended  to  the  lessons :  they  may  not  overstep  their 
commission.  At  least,  an  honest  man  would  not  do  it ; 
and  a  dishonest  one  has  little  temptation,  seeing  the 
mischief  ably  done  to  his  hand,  so  far  as  the  lesson 
book  is  concerned ;  but  in  the  other  points,  the  pub- 
lished rules  of  the  Board,  which  afford  a  seeming 
protection  against  undue  preponderance  on  either 
side,  are  so  much  waste  paper.  The  master  is  para- 
mount in  the  school,  doing,  undoing,  evading,  alter- 
ing, and  reversing,  with  an  impunity  controlled  only 
by  one  superior  authority — the  priest. 

Yet  the  open,  unveiled  violation  of  rules  in  favor  of 
the  reigning  superstition  is  striking ;  in  England  it 
would  not  be  tolerated.  I  have  remarked  on  the 
close  juxta-positionin  which  the  national  schools  that 
I  have  seen  stand  to  the  Romish  edifice.  I  now  find 
that  out  of  seventy-three  schools  in  Protestant  Ulster, 
sixty  are  built  actually  within  the  enclosed  precincts 
of  chapels,  nunneries,  or  monasteries  ;  in  Leinster,  ouc 
of  one  hundred  schools,  there  is  not  one  but  what  is 
similarly  situated.  Among  these,  one  school  entirely 
occupies  the  basement  story  of  a  large  Romish  chape 


180  LETTER    VII. 

in  Dublin.  Minister  has  sixty-eight  schools  ;  two  only 
of  which  are  exceptions  to  the  practical  rule  that,  in 
defiance  of  the  nominal  rule,  placesthem  on  the  holy 
ground  of  Romanism  ;  and  Connaught  with  its  twenty 
schcols  exhibits  no  exception  whatever! 

One  more  remark,  and  I  quit  this  humiliating  sub- 
ject :  for  what  to  an  English  Protestant  can  be  more 
painfully  humiliating  than  to  see  the  name,  the 
authority,  the  wealth  of  England  thus  prostituted  to 
aid  the  designs  of  God's  enemy  against  the  souls  of 
her  own  subjects  1  If  help  had  been  given  to  intro* 
duce,  under  such  high  sanction,  this  plan  among 
others  already  in  operation,  it  would  have  been  an  evil 
application  of  government  influence:  but  we  must 
remember  that  an  excellent  system  of  scriptural 
education,  supported  by  a  public  grant,  was  set  aside  ; 
and  so  far  as  the  withdrawal  of  that  grant  could  accom- 
plish it,  extinguished,  in  order  to  substitute  for  it  this 
unhappy  device,  by  which  90,595  poor  children,  nursed 
in  the  soul-destroying  errors  of  Popery,  are  further 
confirmed  in  them,  and  placed  more  entirely  under 
the  despotism  of  the  priesthood,  while  15,633  young 
Protestants  are  exposed  to  the  perils  of  contamination, 
from  that  with  which  they  are  brought  into  daily  con- 
tact.* I  may,  however,  make  a  few  exceptions :  in 
this  obstinately  Protestant  part  of  Ireland,  some  few 
schools  set  the  priests  at  defiance  ;  and  in  one  which 
I  could  name,  the  grant  of  books  from  the  board  was 
found  unopened,  just  as  it  had  been  packed  in  Dublin : 
the  master  alleging,  that  if  he  once  produced  those 
books,  every  Protestant  would  immediately  leave  the 

•  These  were  the  numerical  returns  in  April,  1837. 


COUNTY    DOWN.  181 

school.  But  even  on  this  there  is  a  sad  drawback. 
The  heresy  falsely  called  Unitarianism,  as  Popery  is 
falsely  called  Catholicity,  prevails  to  an  awful  extent 
among  the  Presbyterian  congregations :  it  has  been 
indignantly  cast  out  by  the  sound  orthodox  body  of 
the  true  church  of  Scotland,  who  have  purged  the 
synol  of  Ulster  of  that  unholy  leaven ;  but  they  can- 
not banish  it  from  the  professing  body  there,  any  more 
than  we  can  extirpate  it  in  England  ;  and  to  give  error 
in  every  possible  shape  all  practicable  advantage,  a 
Socinian  sits  at  the  Board  in  Dublin,  to  watch  over  that 
branch  of  the  antichristian  interest.  Thus  some  who 
are  sturdily  resolved  not  to  deify  the  Virgin  or  St. 
Peter,  are  no  less  fixedly  bent  on  undeifying  our  Lord 
Jesus  Christ  and  the  Holy  Ghost.  Alas  for  the  cause 
of  truth,  when  such  an  alliance  is  sanctioned  and 
upheld  by  the  constituted  authorities  of  the  land  ! 

While  breakfasting  with  my  more  recent  min- 
isterial acquaintance,  admiring  his  delightful  home  and 
lovely  children,  and  enjoying  the  converse  of  a  cheer- 
ful, intellectual,  and  enlightened  assemblage  of  friends, 
we  were  regaled  with  the  sight  of  another  division  of 
cavalry  returning  from  their  northern  campaign.  I 
almost  wonder  at  the  cool  contempt  with  which  the 
loyal  Protestants  endure  this  degrading  insult,  de- 
grading, not  to  its  objects,  but  its  perpetrators.  The 
former  feel  this  ;  and  I  really  think  that  pity  for  their 
governors  is  the  reigning  sentiment  whenever  they 
contemplate  this  ridiculous  exhibition  of  affected 
panic,  and  concern  for  the  public  peace.  No  such, 
demonstrations  are  made  in  the  south,  to  intimidate 
the  midnight  murderer,  or  day-light  assassin,  from  his 
meditated  crime.  Protestantism  is  now  the  only 
16 


182  LETTER    VII. 

offence  deserving  viceregal  visitation  in  this  country ; 
and  happily  for  them,  it  is  a  case  where  punishment 
may  be  inflicted  with  impunity,  which  is  more  than 
could  be  said,  if  treason  and  rebellion  were  laid  under 
the  scourge.  I  am  now  about  to  quit  Newry,  and  I 
shall  part  with  regret  from  many  with  whose  existence 
I  was  unacquainted  twenty-four  hours  ago.  Pressing 
invitations  to  stay,  hospitable  offers  of  all  that  their 
homes  could  afford,  have  assailed  us  to  the  last  ;  and 
if  I  were  not  longing  to  reach  TolJymore  Park,  and 
limited  as  to  time,  I  could  hardly  manage  to  es-cape 
from  these  persuasive  Newry  friends.  I  leave  them 
calculating  on  a  triumph  in  the  approaching  election. 
Mr.  Ellis  comes  forward  in  broad  and  open  opposition 
to  the  party  who  have  hitherto  contrived  to  maintain 
a  majority.  His  politics  are  conservative  ;  his  pro- 
fessions altogether  those  of  Protestantism  ;  and  the 
late  gratuitous  affront  having  roused  many  lukewarm 
spirits,  and  united  some  who  before  were  kept  apart 
by  minor  considerations,  I  am  mistaken  if  the  osten- 
tatious parade  of  her  Majesty's  troops  among  a  loyal 
and  peaceable  people,  does  not  facilitate  the  send- 
ing to  parliament  of  an  additional  opponent  of  her 
Majesty's  very  incompetent  administration.  It  is  not 
that  1  care  for  whig  or  tory  :  little  confidence  I  have 
in  one  or  the  other,  actuated  as  both  too  generally 
are,  by  the  hollow  principle  of  seeming  expediency, 
without  a  reference  to  the  only  rule  of  right ;  but  with 
my  own  eyes  I  see  the  daily  proofs  of  a  fixed  deter- 
mination to  conciliate  the  destroyers  of  God's  heritage, 
at  the  expense  of  all  which  they  are  bound  to  uphold : 
and  therefore  I  wish  the  country  a  happy  deliverance 
feom  their  mischievous  rule. 


LETTER   VIII. 


COUNTY    DOWN. 


Tolly  more  Park,,  July, 
You  desire  me  to  give  you  a  minute  description  of  all 
that  I  should  see  here  :  in  how  many  volumes  1  A 
plan  so  well  worthy  describing,  I  never  before  saw ; 
but  when  I  take  up  the  pen  and  would  transfer  to 
paper  the  bare  outline  of  what  the  eye  and  the 
mind,  even  at  this  moment,  can  take  in  together,  I  am 
lost  in  a  labyrinth  of  ideas.  We  left  Newry  in  a  post- 
chaise,  and  advanced  into  a  region  of  grandeur, 
surpassing  all  that  I  had  conceived  from  the  expres- 
sions of  my  friends.  The  road  winds  at  first  through 
unequal  grounds,  ascending  and  descending  con- 
siderable swells ;  then  the  banks  on  the  right  hand 
rise  to  what  you  would  call  mountains,  did  not  the 
distance  present  you  with  towering  forms,  which 
leave  you  doubtful  whether  your  near  neighbors  can. 
be  termed  anything  more  than  moderate  hills.  Pic- 
turesque, however,  they  are  in  the  highest  <Xegr*e  : 
a  succession  of  almost  perpendicular  sweeps,  often 
wooded,  always  gay  with  wild  flowers,  and,  whenever 
the  slope  will  admit  of  it,  fine  ridges  of  potatoes,  the 
white  and  purple  blossoms  always  appearing  in  dis- 
tinct plantations,  and  wearing  the  fashionable  aspect 
of  flowers    en   masse.      With    us   a  potato    field  is 


184?  LETTER    VIII. 

a  very  homely  affair  :  our  straggling  ridges,  the  single 
rows  of  plants  placed  length-wise,  and  the  flat  con- 
fusion of  the  whole  thing  defy  all  idea  of  the  ornamen- 
tal. But  Paddy  knows  better :  he  separates  a  rising 
ground  into  parcels  of  about  two  or  three  yards  in 
width:  digging  between  them  a  very  deep  trench,  say 
two  feet  over,  running  in  as  straight  a  line  as  the  eye 
of  mathematical  precision  could,  desire.  Across  the 
beds  thus  divided,  he  sets  the  root  j  so  that  the 
ridges  do  not  appear  on  a  front  view  ;  and  thus  along, 
wide,  highly  raised  bed  of  very  rich  plants  stretches 
from  the  road-side  up  the  hill,  well  defined  by  the 
separating  trenches,  and  the^e  again  supplying  a 
singular  ornament  to  the  scene  :  for  the  prevailing 
weed,  which  bears  a  bright  flower  of  the  deepest 
yellow,  is  carefully  eradicated  from  the  beds,  but 
allowed  to  grow  on  either  edge,  which  it  does  most 
thickly ;  and  so  beautiful  is  this  belt  of  rich  gold 
exactly  bordering  the  spacious  slips  of  emerald  green, 
with  its  uniform  tufts  of  pure  white,  or  else  of  pure 
purple,  that  I  am  in  doubt  whether  it  is  not  the  effect 
of  design.  In  short,  I  must  take  leave  to  repeat  the 
assertion  which  has  more  than  once  offended  your 
nationality,  that  an  Englishman  knows  neither  how  to 
grow,  how  to  boil,  nor  how  to  relish  a  potato. 

After  this  merited  eulogium  on  the  staff  of  life  in 
Ireland,  I  return  to  the  distant  landscape,  the  dark 
mass  of  mountains  that  rose  and  looked  forth,  as  if 
watching  to  bestow  the  universal  greeting,  the  hun- 
dred thousand  welcomes  of  the  land  on  a  friendly 
guest.  Just  as  their  bold  outlines  became  more  de- 
fined, we  encountered  one  of  those  untoward  events 
to  which  all  travellers  are  exposed — a  regular  fall  of 


COUNTY    DOWN.  185 

rain.  Not  one  of  those  little  pattering  concerns  that 
you  are  accustomed  to,  but  a  real  energetic  Irish 
torrent,  coming  down  in  sincere  earnest.  The  poor 
postillion,  with  his  broken  hat  and  thin  linen  jacket, 
became  an  object  of  much  sympathy  to  us ;  and  as  I 
have  always  experienced  the  truth  of  the  homely 
adage — "  Where  there  is  a  will  there  is  a  way,"  our 
concern  proved  of  some  avail  to  him.  Opening  a 
front  window  sufficiently  far  for  our  purpose,  we 
managed  to  hold  a  large  umbrella  over  his  head,  so  as 
neither  to  impede  his  view  of  the  horses  and  road, 
nor  to  direct  a  dripping  stream  upon  his  ill-clad  per- 
son. Frequent  practice  has  rendered  us  very  expert 
at  this  operation  ;  and  to  judge  by  the  earnestness  of 
the  poor  people's  acknowledgments,  I  should  suppose 
that  it  is  not  a  common  attention.  I  canuot,  however, 
persuade  myself  that  any  person  possessed  of  a  tole- 
rable share  of  humanity  would  sit  with  a  folded  um- 
brella in  a  weather-proof  carriage,  while  a  fellow- 
creature  endured  the  pelting  of  a  storm  from  which 
he  might  be  screened  at  so  very  trifling  an  expense  of 
trouble  and  condescension.  Our  Irishman  repaid  to 
the  best  of  his  power  the  little  kindness  conferred, 
by  taxing  his  memory  for  every  particle  of  informa- 
tion there  stored  :  and  I  think  where  that  failed,  he 
sometimes  drew  upon  his  invention,  particularly  in 
burnishing  a  name  for  every  hill  we  passed. 

The  rain,  though  violent,  was  not  very  persevering  • 
two  or  three  discharges  from  the  frowning  sky  seemed 
to  expend  its  liquid  ammunition,  and  the  remaining 
clouds  rolled  off,  just  as  we  fairly  reached  the  foot  of 
that  magnificent  chain,  the  Mourne  mountains.  Bare 
and  undiversified  as  regards  their  surface,  which  is  of 
16* 


186  LETTER    VIII. 

a  brownish  green,  or  rather  a  greenish  brown,  and 
exceedingly  rocky,  imagination  could  not  picture  a 
finer  variety  of  outline  than  they  in  their  changing 
positions  exhibited  as  we  wound  along.  You  must 
imagine,  on  your  right  hand  a  good  black  bog,  some- 
times interspersed  with  a  patch  of  cultivation,  and  on 
its  farther  edge,  seldom  removed  beyond  the  distance 
of  a  moderate  sized  field,  a  crowd  of  mountain  tops, 
sometimes  precipitous,  more  generally  descending 
with  a  rapid  sweep,  now  intersecting  each  other, 
anon  forming  a  sort  of  defile,  quickly  terminated  by 
an  obstructing  individual,  with  its  round,  conical,  or 
angular  crest  fully  displayed  as  we  drove  past  the 
opening :  then  again  a  long  unbroken  though  finely 
undulating  line  accompanying  you  at  an  equal  dis- 
tance. Turning  the  last  point  of  this  gigantic  ram- 
part, you  seem  to  bid  farewell  to  your  stupendous 
companions,  and  are  half  wearied  with  the  compara- 
tively flat,  and  rather  sterile  aspect  of  the  right  hand 
scenery  ;  while  on  your  left  the  tall  hedge  gives  place 
to  a  stone  enclosure,  with  a  plantation  within,  and 
you  find  that  you  have  entered  on  Lord  Roden's  es- 
tate. 

It  then  became  a  matter  of  trifling  consideration  to 
me  that  the  mountains  had  withdrawn  ;  my  heart 
and  eyes  were  both  full,  overpowered  with  the  con- 
sciousness of  having  at  length  reached  a  spot  the  very 
name  of  which  had  for  many  years  been  precious  to 
my  thought.  For  many  a  long  day  I  had  been  tra- 
versing the  land,  from  Waterford  hither,  lamenting 
the  evils  for  which  I  know  there  is  a  radical  cure,  but 
not  as  yet  permitted  to  see  extensive  power  heartily 
applied  to  administer  that  remedy.     A  calm,  firm,  un- 


COUNTY   DOWN.  187 

compromising  resistance  against  the  spirit  and  genius 
of  popery,  a  vigorous  repression  of  its  external 
risings,  a  healing  process  for  the  alleviation  of  the 
miseries  that  inevitably  result  from  its  secret  workings, 
a  persevering  proclamation  of  gospel  truth,  uncon- 
taminated  with  any  neutralizing  admixture,  and  carried 
out  bv  all  the  means  that  active  benevolence  and  un- 
tiring zeal  can  discover,  by  schools  for  all  ages  and  all 
classes,  most  judiciously  apportioned  and  sustained; 
all  this  and  much  more  1  knew  marked  the  presiding 
influence  where  I  was  at  length  privileged  to  come  as 
a  guest ;  and  when,  over  the  door  of  a  sweet  little 
cottage  that  broke  the  regularity  of  the  left  hand 
fence,  I  beheld  an  inscription  in  the  Irish  character, 
indicating  that  it  was  a  school,  my  feelings  were  more 
delicious  than  even  they  had  been  at  Vinegar  Hill. 
There  a  dark  and  dreadful  recollection  mingled  with 
every  gladsome  thought :  here  was  a  wilderness  of 
natural  grandeur  that  seemed  to  shut  out  the  stormy 
world  ;  moral  destitution  yet  prevailing  indeed,  but 
with  a  sweet  budding  promise  upon  the  desert,  that 
it  should  yet  rejoice  and  blossom  as  the  rose. 

On  the  right,  the  ground  swelled  more  and  more, 
but  cultivation  was  carried  to  its  farthest  point.  The 
whole  hill  side  being  portioned  off,  divided  with  banks 
of  loose  stones,  and  each  little  estate  having  its  cot- 
tage, each  cottage  its  small  hedge  row  enclosure, 
with  a  tree  or  two  bending  over  it,  you  cannot  imagine 
how  interesting  was  the  picture.  Much  of  turf  bog 
lay  intermingled,  giving  a  sombre  cast  to  the  scene  ; 
and  the  remaining  soil  was  evidently  rough,  much  en- 
cumbered with  stone  :  but  those  cottage  allotments, 
scattered  very  widely  and  irregularly  about,  some  ap- 


188  LETTER    VIII, 

preaching  the  road,  others  perched  high  on  the  emi 
nence,  were  a  perfect  contrast  to  the  wretched  cabins 
that  I  had  seen  huddled  together  in  other  parts  of  the 
country.  While  watching  the  varieties  of  this  land- 
scape, we  were  almost  startled  by  a  sudden  ren- 
contre with  our  giant  friends :  again  they  flung  them- 
selves before  us  in  unveiled  magnificence  ;  and  pre- 
sently a  scene  more  enchanting  than  I  had  dreamed 
of  appeared  :  for  the  onward  road  descended,  and  evi- 
dently led  through  a  low  ground,  beyond  which  in 
broad  and  brilliant  loveliness  lay  the  sea.  I  shall  not 
forget  the  smile  with  which  the  poor  driver  turned 
his  head  to  look  at  me,  when  a  rapturous  exclamation 
burst  from  my  lips;  and  while  we  proceeded  along  a 
beautiful  road,  edged  with  handGome  cottages,  he 
remarked,  "  Lord  Roden's  village  :"  the^n,  passing  a 
most  respectable  dwelling,  with  its  range  of  stabling, 
he  added,  '•  Lord  Roden's  inn  ;"  and  wheeling  his 
horses  to  the  right,  where  a  very  fine  gateway  and 
picturesque  lodge  marked  the  entrance,  he  almost 
triumphantly  concluded,  u  Lord  Roden's  park!" 

The  iron  gates  w6re  thrown  open  by  a  porter  clad 
in  the  same  garb  with  my  friend  at  Dundalk,  whose 
military  bearing  well  accorded  with  the  Waterloo 
medal  that  glittered  on  his  breast.  A  fine  carriage 
way  bordered  by  flower-beds,  overhung  with  stately 
trees,  forming  one  of  the  noblest  and  most  graceful 
avenues  possible,  swept  along,  first  rising,  then  with  a 
Wide  curve  descending  again,  and  opening  such  a 
view  !  I  shall  not  attempt  to  describe  it  yet :  I  must 
first  take  you  to  the  house,  still  sweeping  round  to 
the  right,  an  expanse  of  grass  enclosed  within  a  light 
fence  occupying  the  foreground  of  the  mansion,  until 


COUNTY    DOWN.  189 

we  alighted  at  the  foot  of  a  noble  flight  of  steps,  snd 
entered  the  building.  The  first  step  you  take  is 
into  a  spacious  lofty  apartment,  floored  with  oak,  and 
hung  round  with  fine  portraits  and  maps  ;  crossing 
this,  you  turn  to  the  left,  and  find  yourself  in  a  very 
long  and  high  but  not  so  very  wide  hall,  with  a  suc- 
cession of  archways,  which  produce  a  beautiful  effect. 
Over  the  first  of  these  on  a  broad  scroll,  in  large  let- 
ters of  gold,  and  in  the  rich  Celtic  cha  acter,  you  read 
the  greeting,  the  dear  Irish  greeting,  Cead  mille 
Failthe.  It  is  impossible  to  conceive  the  effect  of 
th^se  few  words  displayed  in  suph  a  place.  Lord  Roden 
I  knew  was  still  in  England;  and  the  Countess  was 
then  on  some  of  her  daily  visits  of  mercy  to  the 
neighboring  poor  ;  so  that  for  a  short  time  we  must  be 
alone  :  but  a  welcome,  an  immediate,  a  glowing  wel- 
come, the  noble  proprietors  have  provided,  whether  pre- 
sent or  absent,  for  the  humblest  guest  who  can  tread 
that  truly  baronial  hail.  I  stood  for  a  moment, 
arrested  by  the  suddenness  of  the  salutation  j  and  my 
inmost  heart  yielded  the  response,  "  Yes,  I  know  I  am 
welcome  here ;  for  I  love  Ireland,  and  my  heart's  de- 
sire and  prayer  is  to  serve  God  in  the  Gospel  of  his 
Son.     Therefore  I  am  welcome." 

I  must  linger  a  little  in  this  enchanting  hall :  it  is 
lighted  on  the  left  by  a  row  of  high  and  richly  stained 
windows,  which  cast  a  most  beautiful  mellow  lustre 
on  the  opposite  wall,  hung  with  a  series  of  family  por- 
traits. Rare  cabinets,  displaying  many  costly  articles 
of  foreign  workmanship,  stand  at  intervals  on  either 
side,  and  in  the  central  part  a  very  fine  double  stair- 
case admits  a  large  opening  between  the  two  flights, 
over  which  a  broad  lantern   pours  down   the  silver 


190  LETTER  VII  1. 

light  of  day.  This  spot  again  detained  me;  for  it* 
chivalrous  character  struck  an  old  chord  in  my  heart 
Four  complete  suits  of  mail,  so  placed  as  to  give  you 
the  entire  figure  of  an  armed  man  on  each  pedestal^ 
are  ranged  on  the  left ;  opposite,  in  the  square  open- 
ing between  the  staircases,  are  two  stands,  each  con- 
taining twenty  muskets,  with  their  bayonets  ranged 
beside  them,  excellently  kept.  A  large  drum  hangs 
near ;  and  over  the  whole,  depending  from  the  balus- 
trades, float  five  bright  banners  of  various  descrip- 
tions ;  wThile  pikes,  halberts,  pistols,  and  a  great  va- 
riety of  curious  arms,  are  tastefully  disposed  around. 
You  may  understand  from  this,  that  the  walls  of  the 
staircase  and  landing-place  form  three  sides  of  a  hol- 
low square  ;  these  are  occupied  above  by  a  very  valu- 
able series  of  five  paintings,  of  great  size,  represent- 
ing the  different  hairbreadth  'scapes  of  Charles  II. 
The  figures  are  all  large  as  life  ;  and  the  portraits 
and  costume  excellent.  They  were  painted  by  Fuller 
shortly  after  the  Restoration,  and  are  seen  to  great 
advantage  among  so  many  tokens  of  devoted  loyalty 
as  abound  in  this  spot.  Proceeding  onward  and  pass- 
ing a  farther  line  of  painted  windows,  portraits,  and 
antiques,  two  doors  to  the  left  lead  into  the  elegant 
suite  of  apartments  that  form  the  dining  and  ante- 
rooms, and  the  splendid  library  at  present  used  as  a 
drawing-room.  At  the  farther  extremity  of  this  hall 
is  another  apartment  recently  added  to  the  building, 
of  which  more  anon. 

You  will  believe  that  by  the  time  we  had  traversed 
this  space,  I  was  sufficiently  excited  to  be  thankful  for 
a  little  leisure  to  compose  my  spirits  before  the  noble 
lady  of  this  noble   mansion  returned  to  confirm  the 


COUNTY   DOWN.  191 

greeting  of  the  Irish  scroll,  and  to  lead  us  into  the 
delicious  grounds,  that,  all  sparkling  with  sunlit  drops 
of  recent  rain,  looked  more  like  a  gorgeous  imagin- 
ing than  a  reality  of  this  defiled  earth.  I  could  not  if 
I  labored  for  a  week  at  the  task,  convey  an  adequate 
idea  of  the  beauties  of  this  place:  nor  could  you 
name  an  appendage  capable  of  ornamenting  a  spot 
that  is  wanting  here.  Would  you  have  sublimity  1 
A  mountain,  planted  to  its  summit  with  trees  of  the 
richest  and  most  luxuriant  character,  rises  close  to  the 
house  ;  above  it  appears  the  long  waving  line  of  a  no- 
ble ridge,  called  the  black  mountain;  and  looking 
over  that,  yea  looking  down  with  a  most  patronizing 
air  upon  this  fairy  scene,  towers  the  conical  point  of 
Slieve  Donard.  When  this  was  first  pointed  out  to 
me,  I  felt,  though  I  did  not  say  it,  that  Slieve  Donard 
ought  to  lift  his  head  a  little  higher,  for  the  sake  of  a 
more  marked  pre-eminence,  above  his  giant  neighbor. 
Yet  I  was  really  astonished  when,  half  an  hour  after- 
wards, while  I  was  looking  up,  a  thick  cloud  rolled 
away,  which  I  had  never  suspected  to  lie  between  me 
and  the  object  of  my  curiosity,  and  showed  such  an 
altitude  as  I  certainly  had  never  pictured  to  myself. 
The  most  striking  appearance  is  the  seeming  proximity 
of  this  splendid  peak  :  you  fancy  that,  if  permitted  to 
climb  over  the  tree-tops  to  the  termination  of  the 
Avooded  height,  you  could  pass  by  a  single  step  to  the 
black  mountain,  and  thence,  by  as  easy  a  transition,  to 
the  ascent  of  Slieve  Donard's  crest.  You  may  judge 
of  the  grandeur  of  such  a  comoination  ;  but  you  can 
form  no  idea  of  the  enchanting  loveliness  of  the  gar- 
den round  that  separates  the  house  from  its  magnifi- 
cent guardian  heights.     The  gently  swelling  lawn  is 


192  LETTER    VIII. 

diversified  with  every  possible  variety  of  ornamental 
trees  and  shrubs,  arranged  in  clumps  and  clusters  with 
faultless  taste,  or  allowed  to  rise  alone,  and  show  their 
elegant  outline.  Flower-beds,  stored  with  the  choic- 
est aromatic  and  brilliant  specimens,  are  cut  in  the 
soft  grass  ;  while  here  and  there  you  see  an  enormous 
basket,  formed  of  wreathed  twigs,  adorned  with  fir- 
apples,  and  bearing  on  the  mould  that  fills  them  all  the 
delicate  creeping  and  other  flowers  that  can  be 
thought  of.  These  are  trophies  of  the  industrious 
ingenuity  of  the  youthful  and  noble  heir,  delighting 
to  add  another  charm  to  this  region  of  delights.  The 
famous  rhododendrons,  averaging  from  thirty  to  fifty 
feet  in  circumference,  form  a  distinguished  feature, 
though  not  now  in  flower  :  their  lower  branches  rest  on 
the  lawn,  and  each  plant  naturally  assumes  a  very 
graceful  pyramidical  shape.  At  proper  intervals  sheep 
of  a  handsome  breed  are  tethered,  but  seemingly  at 
large,  browsing  fearlessly  on  the  velvet  sod  beneath 
them.  Turn  from  this,  and  go  towards  the  front  of 
the  house — your  eye  following  the  gradual  descent  of 
the  wooded  hill  as  it  slopes  away,  rests  on  the  ocean. 
From  the  window  of  my  sleeping  apartment  I  see  dis- 
tinctly, without  a  glass,  the  Isle  of  Man,  reposing  in 
mid-sea  ;  and  with  an  ordinary  telescope,  the  shipping 
in  its  port  is  clearly  discernible.  What  would  you 
add  to  this  combination  of  attractions  1  Rocks, 
woods,  and  a  mountain-torrent  might  improve  it. 
Well,  I  challenge  the^world  to  outdo  the  demesne  of 
Tollymore  Park  in  these  particulars. 

Leaving  the  house  in  the  rear,  and  the  exquisite 
lawn  on  your  right,  you  cross  a  slip  of  pasturage,  and 
enter  the  covert  of  a  dark  grove,  which  leads  you  by 


COUNTY    DOWN.  193 

a  descending  path,  just  wide  enough  to  walk  on  be- 
tween the  trees  and  brushwood,  until  you  emerge  on 
the  edge  of  the  most  romantic  stream  that  ever  burst  its 
way  through  a  channel  of  rock.  The  latter  lies  in 
masses,  sometimes  to  a  depth  of  twenty  feet  or  more, 
but  never  for  that  length  unbroken.  Huge  blocks, 
hurled,  as  it  would  seem,  by  some  gigantic  arm,  lie  in 
the  wildest  confusion  in  the  bed  of  the  river  ;  while 
the  fantastic  shapes  assumed  by  those  which  line  the 
banks,  the  variety  of  lichens  and  suckers  that  spring 
from  every  fissure,  the  darkness  of  the  narrow  chasm, 
enlightened  by  the  foam  of  those  dancing,  dashing, 
whirling  waters,  and  the  grotesque  positions  into 
which  the  overhanging-  trees  have  twisted  their  trunks, 
generally  mantled  in  ivy, — altogether  form  such  a 
scene  of  witchery,  that  I  only  wonder  how  I  dare  dis- 
honor it  by  any  attempt  at  a  description.  This  wild 
stream,  rushing  from  the  Mourne  Mountains,  winds  its 
eccentric  course  through  the  length  of  the  domain, 
keeping  close  below  the  wooded  hill,  and  so  perfectly- 
concealed  that  you  must  be  on  its  banks  to  know  any- 
thing of  its  existence.  At  different  turns  wThere  the 
ground  abruptly  descends,  or  the  channel  suddenly 
deepens,  fine  falls  are  produced  ;  but  it  is  a  succes- 
sion of  cascades,  sometimes  presenting  half  a  dozen 
at  a  view,  falling  from  different  parts  of  the  same 
fragment  of  rock.  Man  could  do  nothing  here,  ex- 
cept to  preserve  the  banks  in  as  perfect  accordance  as 
might  be  with  the  torrent ;  and  this  has  very  success- 
fully been  done.  Now  a  grotto,  then  a  bridge  most 
rustically  appropriate,  and  occasionally  a  spot  of 
green-sward,  with  chairs  and  tables  en  suite,  embower- 
ed in  the  trees,  vary  the  walk ;  but  still  you  tread 
17 


194  LETTER    VIII. 

upon  the  edge,  and  cannot  avoid  beholding,  at  every 
step,  the  wonders  of  the  rocky  depth  beneath,  with 
its  ever-varying  stream  of  pure  water,  sometimes  black 
with  the  masses  of  rock  and  wood  that  close  it  in  : 
then  transparent  as  crystal,  while  it  lightly  leaps  some 
barrier,  and  plays  awhile  around  its  base. 

In  a  level  part  of  this  enchanted  glen,  Lord  Roden 
has  pressed  his  wiid  river  into  the  service  to  which 
he  devotes  himself,  and  all  that  he  is,  and  all  that  he 
has, — the  service  of  his  poor  countrymen.  Here, 
with  that  constant  attention  to  the  elegant  and  pictur- 
esque which  enhances  the  useful,  he  has  erected  a 
saw-mill ;  and  very  delightful  it  is  to  see  the  mountain 
river,  subdued  into  quiet  force,  steadily  wending  its 
way  for  a  space,  to  work  by  its  impetus  an  extensive 
machinery.  The  dense  forest  supplies  trees,  without 
their  being  missed  ;  and  the  stream  which  fed  them 
enables  a  few  workmen  to  execute  the  whole  process 
of  sawing,  planing,  turning,  and  finishing  off  every 
useful  article,  from  the  solid  timbers  that  support  a 
substantial  house,  to  the  little  pegs  that  unite  the 
fences  around  it.  This  spectacle  of  busy  operation, 
the  cottagers  coming  Avith  their. carts  for  a  valuable 
freight  of  timber,  and  the  young  children  to  gather 
chips  in  their  pinafores ;  the  solitude,  the  loveliness 
of  the  woods,  the  occasional  glimpse  of  those  tower- 
ing mountains,  the  tranquil  grace  of  the  river  at  this 
useful  stage  of  its  progress,  and  the  peaceable,  con- 
tented aspect  of  the  poor  tenantry  who  avail  them- 
selves of  the  boon, — all  impart  such  a  charm,  that 
when  to  it  you  add  the  crowning  glory  of  the  whole, 
the  assured  truth  that  love  to  God  is  the  moving  prin- 
ciple of  all  this  active  benevolence,  that  nothing  here 


COUNTY  DOWN.  195 

is  undertaken,  nothing  planned,  nothing  desired,  but 
what  has  been  brought  before  the  Lord  in  fervent  be- 
lieving prayer,  and  nothing  sought  but  as  a  means  to 
glorify  Him,  and  to  benefit  his  creatures  for  his  sake, 
— you  must  say  with  me  that  sea  and  land  may  be 
compassed  without  finding  a  spot  where  the  heart  can 
so  rest,  so  expand,  so  expatiate^  as  in  this  abode  of 
natural  beauty,  moral  elevation,  and  spiritual  peace. 

But  I  must  lead  you  back  to  the  house,  for  you 
have  not  seen  the  chapel.  Fancy  a  choice  collection 
of  all  that  the  sculptor,  the  painter,  and  engraver  can 
accomplish  to  render  the  oratory  of  a  nobleman's 
house  costly  and  imposing  : — you  will  then  have  fan- 
cied the  exact  reverse  of  Lord  Roden's  chapel.  A 
plainer  apartment  I  have  not  seen  :  it  is  an  oblong 
square,  of  a  good  size  and  height,  the  windows  just 
under  the  ceiling,  white  walls,  &nd  benches  with  good 
backs  ranged  transversely  throughout.  On  the  right 
hand  side,  as  you  enter,  stands  a  desk,  simply  to  sup- 
port a  book ;  with  a  low  stool  for  all  but  the  stately 
master,  who  stands,  you  know,  four  inches  above  men 
of  six  feet  high ;  on  the  opposite  side  is  a  chair  for 
Lady  Roden^  with  a  space  for  the  family  and  guests, 
no  otherwise  differing  from  the  rest  than  as  having 
cushions.  At  the  farther  end,  a  door  leads  into  the 
park,  always  open  to  admit  all  comers.  We  are 
called  by  beat  of  drum,  the  butler  striking  the  great 
drum  in  the  hall  at  nine  o'clock,  morning  and  even- 
ing, to  this  modest  place  of  prayer ;  and  while  the 
inmates  of  the  house  enter  from  the  hall,  there  is  not 
a  begirar  on  the  road  who  is  not  equally  free  to  ap- 
proach by  the  other  entrance.  A  hymn  is  sung,  a 
portion  read  and  commented  on,  and  prayer   offered  j 


196  LETTER    VHI. 

after  which  the  kindest  notice  is  taken  of  those  poor 
who  have  any  occasion  for  particular  attention-  Se- 
veral families  residing  near  also  come  to  avail  them- 
selves of  this  privilege, — among  them  one  to  whom  I 
have  already  become  quite  attached,  that  of  Lord  Ro- 
den's  agent  and  valuable  fellow-helper  in  every  good 
work  among  his  people.  Captain  Hill  officiates  dur- 
ing his  lordship's  absence  ;  but  we  hope  to  see  this 
delightful  household  with  its  head  in  his  own  place 
before  long,.  Meanwhile,  I  am  getting  all  the  inform- 
ation that  I  can  respecting  the  system  pursued :  but 
I  am  forced  to  confess  that  the  attractions  here  are 
so  numerous  and  so  powerful  as  to  make  me  almost 
forget  my  proper  business  in  the  enjoyment  of  plea- 
sure, such  as  I  have  rarely  partaken  in  before.  This 
bewitching  garden — this  romantic  stream — this  ba- 
ronial hall  with  its  ancestral  trophies,  and  its  many 
reminiscences  of  former  times — above  all,  the  privi 
lege  of  watching  the  beloved  partner  and  help-meet 
for  this  exemplary  Christian  patriot  in  her  quiet,  un- 
ostentatious, daily  rounds  of  mercy  among  the  poor 
cottagers,  with  the  elevated  tone  of  conversation  and 
pursuits,  all  tending  to  the  highest  object  of  man's 
mortal  existence,  make  me  shrink  from  remembering 
what  lies  beyond  the  range  of  this  little  kingdom  of 
peace  and  love,  and  try  to  persuade  myself  that  poor 
Ireland  and  her  native  race  are  cared  for  in  every 
district  as  they  are  at  Bryansford. 

You  will  remember  that  in  first  alluding  to  the  sub- 
ject of  Irish  misery  and  its  proper  relief,  I  mentioned 
a  twofold  remedy,  either  branch  of  which,  separated 
from  the  other,  must  be  inadequate  to  the  emergency 
that  calls  it  forth.     Here,  the  very  beau  ideal  of  what 


COUNTY    DOWN.  197 

I  want  is  presented  to  view ;  and  with  a  success  that 
would  be  triumphantly  conclusive,  did  not  the  blight- 
ing influence  so  kindly  fostered  by  the  present  gov- 
ernment interpose  to  a  degree  that  would  be  imprac- 
ticable without  such  fostering  aid.  Lord  Roden 
allows  no  competition  for  land  j  he  encourages  no 
outbiddings,  he  drives  no  hard  bargains,  he  leaves  his 
lenants  no  pretext  for  sinking  into  abject  poverty. 
Every  indulgence  compatible  with  the  encouragement 
of  industry  is  afforded  5  arrears  of  rent  are  unknown, 
because  he  takes  care  to  require  no  more  than  what 
a  reasonable  share  of  attention  to  his  proper  calling 
will  enable  each  tenant  to  pay.  If  the  man  be  dili- 
gent and  industrious,  he  is  under  no  apprehension  of 
being  taxed  beyond  his  means  5  if  idle  and  disorderly, 
he  must  make  way  for  a  more  deserving  person. 
Neither  does  it  require  any  superior  measure  of 
worldly  wealth  to  put  this  benevolent  plan  into  daily 
practice  5  the  landlord's  interests  are  as  much  promot- 
ed by  it  as  those  of  the  tenant.  I  do  not  believe 
that  any  mortal  ever  yet  suffered  even  in  his  temporal 
possessions  by  being  liberal  on  a  sound  Christian 
principle  j  but  men  of  the  world  do  not  comprehend 
this  part  of  the  mystery  of  godliness  any  more  than 
the  other  parts  ;  they  find  no  bank-notes  in  their  Bi- 
bles; and  a  divine  promise  will  not  circulate  on 
'change.  Therefore  you  rarely  if  ever  find  such  men 
stepping  out  of  the  beaten  track,  though  common 
sense  should  tell  them  the  same  tale  on  the  credit  of 
actual  experience. 

Did  you  ever  amuse  yourself  as  I  have  often  done, 
by  looking  over  the  mottoes  of  the  peerage  1     Some 
are  singularly  apposite  to  the  character  of  their  pre* 
17* 


198  LETTER    VIII- 

sent  bearers ;  others  strikingly  opposed  to  them. 
Lord  Roden's  is  "  Faire  mon  devoir"  and  never  do  I 
lift  my  eyes  to  the  scroll  that  exhibits  it  over  one  of 
the  archways  in  his  hall,  without  thanking  God  for 
having  engraven  it  on  his  heart  in  a  far  brighter  bla- 
zonry than  ever  adorned  a  shield.  The  principle  of 
this  motto  lies  at  the  root  of  all  his  actions  ;  and  be 
cause,  by  the  grace  of  God,  he  seeks  his  rule  of  prac 
tice  no  less  than  of  faith  in  the  inspired  volume,  and 
the  power  to  act  it  out  from  Him  who  inspired  it, 
="  Look,  whatsoever  he  doeth,  it  shall  prosper." 

I  have,  however,  only  noticed  the  temporal  part  of 
his  plan,  in  the  relationship  of  landlord  to  his  tenants: 
the  other  branch  is  attended  to  with  a  zeal  that  noth- 
ing can  damp :  a  perseverance  that  nothing  can  dis- 
hearten. Up,  on  the  mountain  top,  as  high  as  a  cabin 
can  be  pitched,  down  in  the  loneliest  glen,  afar  on  the 
distant  verge  of  his  broad  lands,  and  close  to  the  home 
of  his  heart,  the  voice  of  instruction  resounds.  The 
hoary-headed  man,  whose  dull  ear  is  doubly  closed 
to  any  other  accent,  listens  to  it  in  his  own  sweet  na- 
tive tongue,  from  the  lips  of  some  fellow-peasant  who 
has  been  made  to  receive  and  to  love,  and  is  now 
commissioned  to  declare,  the  truth  as  it  is  in  Jesus. 
The  smiling  infant,  invited  to  some  school,  of  which 
there  are  many  on  the  estate,  drinks  in  with  the  pretty 
jingling  rhymes  that  arrest  his  giddy  little  mind,  the 
name  of  Jesus,  unmixed  with  the  creature-worship  of 
Rome  ;  and  learning  to  rest  his  babyish  cares  and 
hopes  on  the  Saviour's  compassionate  bosom,  feels  no 
after  need  of  supernumerary  helpers.  For  every 
stage  of  human  existence  between  these  extremes 
there   is  suitable    instruction  provided  j  and  rapidly 


COUNTY    DOWN.  199 

was  the  work  proceeding,  gathering-  around  this  be- 
loved nobleman  the  little  ones  of  his  poor  tenantry, 
daily  strengthening  a  bond  that  should  have  endured 
through  time  and  extended  into  eternity,  when  this 
curse  of  Ireland — I  use  not  the  word  lightly  nor  has- 
tily, but  with  solemn  deliberation  I  repeat  it — this 
dire  curse  of  Ireland,  the  National  Board  of  Educa- 
tion sent  its  emissaries  here,  opened  its  pest-house 
of  bigotry  and  error,  and  by  means  of  priestly  influ- 
ence forced  the  poor  lambs  from  under  the  paternal 
care  of  a  true  shepherd,  to  fold  them  in  the  wolf's 
den.  "  Shall  I  not  visit  for  these  things  ]  saith  the 
Lord." 

The  principal  schools,  those  immediately  under  th^ 
eye  of  Lord  and  Lady  Roden,  are  just  outside  the 
Park-gate.  The  girls'  and  infants'  schools  are  under 
one  roof,  opposite  the  gate  ;  the  boys'  farther  down 
the  road  leading  to  Newcastle,  the  pretty  little  town 
that  stands  on  the  edge  of  the  bay.  In  the  infants' 
room  a  card  is  very  conspicuously  hung  over  the  fire- 
place, requesting  that  nothing  may  be  said  or  done  to 
excite  vanity  in  the  minds  of  the  babes ;  a  very 
wholesome  and  needful  precaution,  for  it  is  exceed- 
ingly difficult  to  refrain  from  expressing  admiration, 
which,  even  at  that  tender  age,  children  know  how  to 
appropriate,  and  to  abuse  too.  Indeed,  the  singleness 
of  purpose  that  characterizes  every  public  act  of  the 
Earl,  with  his  simple  desire  that  God  may  be  glorir 
fced,  and  his  fellow-creatures  permanently  benefited, 
is  traceable  at  every  step  of  this  delightful  investigar 
tion.  If  ever  these  pages  get  into  print  I  shall  not 
escape  a  reprimand  for  saying  so  much:  but  in  this  I 
have  a  duty  to  fulfil.     "  Faire  mon  devoir"  requires 


200  LETTER  Vllt 

that  I  should  hold  up  to  such  questioners  as  you  i 
living  proof  of  the  practicability  of  what  all  seem  „o 
think  desirable,  but  few  will  own  to  be  feasible.  I 
maintain  that  if  the  cloven  hoof  of  pro-popery  legisla- 
tion had  not  intruded  here,  I  should  have  been  able  to 
show  an  unclouded  illustration  of  my  favorite  theory  t 
as  it  is,  I  can  bear  witness  that  Lord  and  Lady  Roden 
live  in  the  hearts  of  their  people  ;  and  I  do  not  believe 
that  there  is  one  among  them  who,  unless  personally 
overlooked  by  some  reverend  Roman,  would  mali- 
ciously crush,  I  won't  say  his  house,  but  a  leaf  of  the 
orange  lilies  that  gaily  laugh  in  my  face  wherever  I 
turn. 

But  what,  you  will  ask,  have  I  to  say  about  that 
formidable  attack  on  the  mansion,  of  which  we  heard 
so  much  as  having  resulted  from  his  Lordship's 
orangeism  \  It  is  not  for  me  to  correct  the  mis- 
takes  of  my  predecessors :  I  can  only  state  two  facts. 
One  is,  that  the  reported  assault  consisted  in  a  few 
stones  thrown,  and  random  shots  fired,  as  an  infuriat- 
ed body  of  insurgents  hastened  past  the  gate,  on  their 
way  to  an  expected  fight  j  the  other  is;  that  the  affair 
took  place,  as  nearly  as  I  can  calculate,  some  time 
before  Lord  Roden  announced  himself  a  convert  to  the 
orange  system;  His  principles  ever  were,  are  now, 
and  I  trust  ever  will  bej  essentially  thoge  which  placed 
the  house  of  Orange  Nassau  upon  the  throne,  and 
which  are  thence  called  Orange  j  but  he  did  not  con- 
nect himself  with  the  Association,  until  convinced  by 
close  personal  inspection  that  its  original  constitution 
was  as  unexceptionable  as  the  critical  position  of  the 
Irish  Protestants  rendered  it  expedient  5  and  his  ob- 
ject was  to  restore  to  its  pristine  purity  what,  in  dif* 


COUNTY    DOWN.  201 

ferent  hands,  had  undeniably  been  greatly  perverted. 
Since  I  have  strayed  upon  this  groupd,  and  inspected 
on  the  spot  that  most  terrific  monster  who  lurks  among 
the  lilies,  as  Love  is  said  tjo  do  among  the  roses,  I 
will  enlighten  your  opacity  a  little  further  on  the 
topic. 

In  the  first  place,  then,  the  Orange  institution  took 
its  rise,  not  from  the  noble,  the  wealthy,  the  powerful, 
the  ambitious  of  the  land,  who  might  calculate  on  the 
value  of  such  an  instrument  in  pursuing  their  own 
projects;  but  among  the  humbler  classes,  who  finding 
each  his  little  property,  his  children  and  his  life,  at 
the  mercy  of  surrounding  enemies,  the  poor  blind 
tools  of  persecuting  Rome,  banded  in  a  purely  defen- 
sive league,  to  uphold  the  Protestant  church  and 
government,  and  to  rally  round  their  menaced  fire- 
sides, with  united  purpose  of  heart,  and  combined 
strength  of  hand.  By  degrees,  as  the  fatal  spirit  of 
JProtestant  concession  fed  the  inflated  hopes,  and 
nerved  the  destroying  hand  of  Popery,  the  spreading 
danger  occasioned  an  extension  of  the  protecting  sys- 
tem ;  and  loyal  men  of  all  ranks  repaired  to  it,  as  to 
a  common  centre  of  union.  The  ancient  badge  of 
Nassau,  to  this  day  cherished  as  the  national  emblem 
in  the  kingdom  of  Holland,  was  chosen  as  an  appro- 
priate remembrancer  of  the  Protestant  prince  who  in- 
strumentally  delivered  us  all  from  the  yoke  of  spirit- 
ual and  temporal  despotism.  This  society  extended 
itself  on  all  sides  ;  and  at  this  hour  the  term  Orange- 
man is  synonymous  with  that  of  Protestant,  through- 
put the  length  and  breadth  of  the  Romish  population. 
Rebellion  could  not  prosper,  dismemberment  was 
hopeless    the    integrity    of  the   British   constitution 


202  LETTER    VIII. 

withstood  all  shocks,  and  the  blame  of  this  was  freely, 
I  will  not  say  undeservedly,  cast  upon  the  obstinate 
Orange  faction.  O'Connell,  despairing  of  success, 
either  by  intimidation  or  force,  against  such  a  host  of 
true  hearts  and  strong  hands,  bethought  himself  of  a 
notable  expedient.  The  government,  secretly  influ- 
enced by  him,  were  beginning  to  look  very  cold  on 
their  best  friends,  when  O'Connell  was  seized  with  a 
violent  fit  of  sympathy,  bewailed  their  wrongs,  burn- 
ed with  brotherly  resentment  against  an  ungrateful 
state,  and  assured  the  Orangemen  that  if  they  would 
only  unite  with  him^  he  would  speedily  effect  a  repeal 
of  the  union,  and  faithfully  share  with  them  the  spoils 
of  their  recovered  isle.  With  a  degree  of  cool 
waggery,  the  Orangemen  kept  silence  until  he  had 
made  himself  ridiculous  to  the  utmost  of  his  versatile 
ability.  No  language  was  sufficiently  laudatory  or 
adulatory,  to  be  applied  to  that  noble,  gallant,  devoted, 
exalted  body,  the  Orangemen  of  Ireland.'  On  a  great 
public  occasion,  he  seized  an  orange  flag,  tore  open 
his  waistcoat,  and  pressed  the  honored  colors  to  his 
patriotic  heart,  the  medal  of  the  society  to  his  truth- 
ful lips  ; — nay,  in  the  enthusiasm  of  his  newly  awaken- 
ed devotion,  he  plunged  a  glass  into  the  Boyne,  at 
Navan,  and  quaffed  the  beverage  to  the  famous  toast, 
"The  glorious,  pious,  and  immortal  memory  of  the 
great  and  good  King  William,  who  saved  us  from 
Popery,  slavery,  arbitrary  power,  brass  money,  and 
wooden  shoes  ! 

This  was  the  climax  :  the  diverted  Orangemen 
could  expect  nothing  beyond  it.  So  they  very  com- 
posedly gave  him  to  understand  that  his  eloquence 
and  his  antics  had  been  alike  vain.     Instead  of  sinking 


COUNTY    DOWN.  203 

imo  their  hearts,  his  persuasive  words  had  glided  off, 
to  adopt  a  favorite  Irish  trope,  "  like  drops  of  rain 
from  the  back  of  a  duck."  Hence  the  burst  of 
vituperation,  the  tempest  of  compound  epithets  of 
execration  and  abhorrence,  that  thundered  over  the 
heads  of  the  never-enough-to-be-abominated,  treach- 
erous, bloody-minded  Orange  faction.  Vengeance  on 
the  Orangemen  became  the  subject  of  his  daily  device 
and  his  nightly  vision  ;  and  having  once  obtained  the 
mastery  of  the  Commons'  house,  by  means  of  his 
floating  majority — that  righteous  retribution  on  faith- 
less England,  who  had  provoked  it  by  forsakino-  her 
6acred  protest — he  proceeded  to  demand,  at  the  hands 
of  a  quaking  cabinet,  the  sacrifice  for  which  he  pant- 
ed. You  know  the  enormous,  the  utterly  incredible 
falsehood  on  which  the  charge  was  grounded — an 
imputed  design  to  alter  the  succession,  to  set  aside 
her  present  Majesty,  and  to  place  the  Duke  of  Cum- 
berland on  the  throne  !  Depend  upon  it,  if  O'Connell 
thought  such  a  thing  might  be  agreeable  to  the 
Orangemen,  he  would  have  proposed  it  to  them  over 
his  bumper  of  Boyne  water  ;  but  no,  he  knew  better; 
neither  did  he  dare  to  leave  that  stigma  to  be  investi- 
gated. He  just  caused  a  false  representation  of  some 
kind  to  be  made  to  the  aged  and  harassed  monarch, 
who  permitted  his  royal  name  to  be  used,  in  the 
language  rather  of  entreaty  than  command  ;  and  well 
did  the  traitors  who  prompted  him  know  that  a  word 
cf  appeal  from  their  oppressed  sovereign  would  do 
more  than  an  embattled  army  could  do  towards  the 
accomplishment  of  their  wily  project.  And  so  it  did  ; 
it  disarmed  and  disbanded  the  Orangemen  of  Ireland. 
All  this  I  knew  at  the  time  j  not  a  sentence  has 


204  LETTER    Vttl. 

been  spoken  here'  upon  the  subject,  except  that,  when 
asking  an  account  of  the  meeting"  under  this  roof,  at 
which  Lord  Roden  dissolved  his  lodge,  and  all  laid 
aside  their  badges,  I  was  entreated  by  one  of  the  gen- 
tlemen to  drop  the  subject  ;  for  the  scene  was  too 
agonizing  to  be  recalled  without  greater  emotion  than 
they  liked  to  exhibit;  I  desisted  immediately :  my 
own  heart  beat  too  much  in  unison  with  theirs  to 
doubt  what  must  have  been  the  bitter  anguish  of  re- 
ceiving such  a  requital  for  their  devoted  loyalty  and 
unflinching  fidelity  to  the  sacred  cause.  As  for  the 
wretched  pretence  that  the  people — imeaning  the 
poor  slaves  of  the  priesthood — were  irritated  by  the 
name  and  symbols  of  the  association,  it  is  as  notori- 
ous as  the  noonday  sun  that  the  oath  so  generally 
taken  by  them  to  wade  knee-deep  in  Orange  blood 
simply  means  Protestant  blood  ;  and  that,  if  question- 
ed, they  would  probably  tell  you  that  Martin  Luther 
was  the  first  Orangeman,  and  Grand  Master  of  all  the 
lodges. 

I  saw  to-day  a  young  English  lady,  who  told  me 
she  had  been  visiting  the  National  School  just  by,  and 
that  the  master  had  been  absolutely  raving  against 
Luther,  in  presence  of  the  children  ;  and  when  she 
attempted  to  moderate  his  violence,  he  seemed  dis- 
posed to  expel  her  by  force.  This  excited  no  sur- 
prise in  me,  having  heard  so  many  similar  testimonies 
to  the  fidelity  of  these  Popish  instructors  ;  but,  con- 
sidered in  connection  with  the  beautiful  mode  of 
teaching,  and  with  the  very  high  degree  of  scriptural 
attainment  in  the  schools  from  which  these  poor 
children  were  so  cruelly  drawn  away,  it  thrilled  me 
with   mingled   sorrow   and  indignation.      To   return 


COUNTY   DOWN.  205 

once  more  to  the  Orange, — there  is  not  a  slip  of  gar- 
den belonging  to  a  house,  cottage,  or  cabin,  inhabited 
by  a  Protestant,  Which  the  lilies  do  not  almost  exclu- 
sively occupy.     Positively  I  have  seen  more  of  them 
within  the  last  week  than  ever  I  did  in  my  life  before ; 
and  the  question  naturally  presents  itself,  If  the  sym- 
bol was  so  obnoxious  to  the  Romanists,  would  they 
leave  it  thus  unmolested  by  the  road-side,  where  they 
miglit  destroy  the  flowers  by  hundreds  without  fear 
of  detection  1     But  it  is  useless  to  dwell  on  the  mock- 
ing fallacy  of  all  that  has  been  urged  to  blind  the 
honorable  and  high-minded  people  of  England  to  the 
glaring  wickedness  of  the   general  persecution  now 
raging  against  Irish  Protestants,  and  Irish  Protestant- 
ism, and  of  which  this  is  only  a  branch.     I  have  the 
consolation  of  knowing  that,  as  yet,  the  real  bond  of 
union   is  strengthened  by  the  means  basely  used  to 
annihilate  it.     The   devotion  of  these  people  to  the 
church  and  the  throne    is  increased  by  the  peril  to 
which  both  are  exposed.     The  Orangeman's  principle 
does  not  reside  in  his  riband,  his  pass-word,  or  his 
sign.     Had  he  been  mildly  and  reasonably  requested 
to  relinquish  these,  or  to  suspend  their  use,  as  a  mat- 
ter of  sound  expediency  and  good  example,  no  ques- 
tion can  arise  as  to  its  having  been  cheerfully  done. 
What  renders  the   matter   so   deeply  disgraceful   to 
those  in  authority  under  the  king,  is  this  :  that,  instead 
of  giving  the    Irish   Protestants   an    opportunity  of 
manifesting  their  willing  obedience  where  Scripture 
has  commanded  them  to  obey,  the  public  document 
which,    indirectly,    called    upon   them    to    annihilate 
themselves  as  an  associated  brotherhood,  proceeded 
on  the  assumption  of  the  most  atrocious,  baseless 
18 


206  LETTER    VIII. 

calumny  that  ever  was  devised.     Not  content  with 
slaying  their  victim,  these  refiners  on  treachery  con- 
trived to  blacken  his  character  while  they  took  his 
life.     I  suppose  you  remember  the  story  of  Hunne,  in 
the  Martyrology :   he  was  imprisoned  for  his  faith  j 
and  not  daring  to  bring  him  to  public  trial,  the  perse- 
cutors entered  his    dungeon   in  the    dead    of  night, 
strangled  him,  laid  him  out  very  nicely,  and  then  sus- 
pended him  to  a  nail.     The  object,  of  course,  was  to 
make  it  appear  that,  under  the  terrors  of  a  guilty  con- 
science, he  had  hanged  himself :  but,  unhappily  for 
them,  the  placid  features,  closed  eyes,  well  straight- 
ened  limbs,   and   general   tout   ensemble^    gave    such 
unquestionable  testimony  to  his  having  been  a  cold 
corpse  before  he  was  suspended,  that  even  a  Popish 
inquest  in  Mary's  days  could  not  gainsay  the  matter. 
Now,  as  to  who  contrived  to  make  the  unjust  death 
of  this  pious  man  a  seeming  evidence  of  his  guilt, 
everybody  knew,  though  nobody  could  bring  the  vil- 
lains to  justice.     Perhaps  it  may  be  the  same  in  this 
case.     Everybody  may  know  who,  in  the  malignity  of 
mortification,  resulting  from  an  unsuccessful  attempt 
on  the  integrity  and  fidelity  of  the  victim,  conceived 
the  plan  of  destroying  at  one  blow  his  life  and  his 
good  name  j   and  most   people,   as   in  the  affair  of 
Hunne's  murder,  may  have  a  pretty  clear  inkling  of 
the  parties  who  effected  the  extinction  of  the  former, 
and  anxiously  tried  to  annihilate  the  latter  j  but  they 
are   all   out    of    the   reach   of  human    jurisdiction: 
Hunne's  murderers  have  long  since  been  cited  to  a 
higher   tribunal,  and  the    conspirators   against  Irish 
Protestantism   are    safe   in   the    consciousness    that 
nobody  who  has  the  will  has  also  the  power  to  uphold 


COUNTY    DOWN.  207 


• 


its  cause  ;  and  vice  versa.  Still,  when  I  took  the  well- 
worn  folio  of  Old  Foxe  out  of  my  portmanteau,  and 
pondered  over  its  venerable  pages  to-day  in  the 
Orange  lodge,  I  drew  an  involuntary  parallel;  and  I 
never  again  shall  look  at  the  quaint  picture  of  John 
Hunne  hanging  in  his  prison,  without  viewing  the  two 
events  in  connection* 

"  The  Orange  lodge !  What  treason  shall  we  hear 
of  now  1  Are  not  all  these  lodges  dissolved  V  Yes, 
except  a  few  intractable  spirits,  who  are  not  to  be 
convinced  by  any  logic  that  loyalty  is  misprision  of 
treason.  They  are  discountenanced,  reprehended, 
and  everyway  discouraged,  by  the  Grand  Lodge, 
which  fully,  sincerely,  and  without  any  mental  reserv- 
ation, yielded  to  the  loyal  suggestion, — I  was  going 
to  say  the  royal  wish  ;  but  that  I  am  certain  it  never 
was.  The  apartment  to  which  I  allude  is  not  so 
called  by  any  one  but  myself.  It  is  a  noble  room,  an 
addition  to  the  original  mansion,  situated  at  the  fur- 
ther end  of  the  long  hall,  and  opening  upon  the  most 
richly  beautiful  part  of  the  flower-besprinkled  lawn 
and  shrubbery  5  all  the  sweets  of  which  are  laid  open 
to  it  by  means  of  the  windows  actually  touching  the 
floor.  It  was  formerly  fitted  up  as  a  lodge,  elegantly 
hung,  and  festooned  with  fine  cloth,  in  pannelled  Com- 
partments, alternately  dark  blue  and  orange ;  the 
seats  and  cushions  being  of  the  same.  It  is  now 
nearly  dismantled,  ano\  frorii  its  delightfully  retired 
situation  and  close  proximity  with  the  exquisite  gar- 
den, preferred  in  summer  by  Lord  Itoden  as  a  study, 
and  to  transact  the  multiplied  business  of  his  large 
estate  with  Captain  Hill.  In  his  lordship's  absence  I 
have  obtained  the  privilege  of  writing  in  it.     Many  a 


208  LETTER  VIII. 

solemn,  many  a  spirit-stirring  thought  is  excited  when 
I  look  around  upon  the  disordered  fragments,  soon  to 
be  entirely  swept  away,  of  what  for  a  lopg  series  of 
years  formed  the  outer  badge  of  that  within  which 
passeth  show,— that  which  will  survive  despite  the 
puny  efforts  made  to  destroy  it,  or  to  transform  it  into 
the  opposite  of  its  nature. 

It  was  in  this  apartment  that  the  sacrifice  was 
made,  so  costly  to  those  who  offered  it  on  the  shrine 
of  loyalty — a  sacrifice  that  may  appear  trivial  to  per- 
sons at  a  distance,  whether  of  place  or  of  feeling, 
from  the  men  who  were  called  on  to  make  it  ;  but 
which  wrung  the  honest,  affectionate  hearts  that  no 
peril  could  drive,  no  bribe  allure,  no  injustice  alienate 
from  their  allegiance.  Here  they  met  in  immense 
numbers  ;  while  the  beloved  Grand  Master  of  the 
lodge  used  his  powerful  influence  to  calm  their 
agitated  feelings,  and  to  reconcile  them  to  the  act  of 
more  than  self-immolation,  the  severing  of  a  bond,  the 
distinguishing  feature  of  which  was  that  it  united  the 
poor  cotter  with  his  wealthy  landlord,  the  laboring 
peasant  with  his  lordly  employer,  and  inspired  every 
descending  link  of  the  chain,  reaching-  from  the 
highest  ranks  of  aristocracy  to  the  lowest  grade  of 
obscurity,  with  the  sweet  consciousness  that  they 
were  one  in  the  same  common  cause.  The  noble 
holding  his  loyal  Protestantism  as  the  proudest  among 
many  distinctions,  the  poor  man  cherishing  it  as  his 
all — and  each  prepared  to  make  good  his  pledge  even 
to  the  shedding  of  his  dearest  blood  in  its  defence. 
Here,  in  this  room  it  was,  that  the  badges  were  laid 
aside — the  orange  scarfs,  or  sashes,  under  which 
throbbed  some  of  the  truest  hearts  that  ever  rallied 


COTiNtV    DOWtt.  209 

fOund  ati  endangered  church  and  throne — the  hlue 
ribands,  to  which  were  appended  the  small  silver 
ornaments  that  distinguished  the  different  officers  j 
the'  secretary  having  a  pen,  the  treasurer  a  key,  the 
chaplain  a  bible,  all  in  silver.  Here  it  was  that  each 
man  despoiled  himself  of  what  no  open  enemy  had 
ever  yet  been  permitted  to  despoil  him,  and  struggled 
for  submission  under  the  infamous  wrong  inflicted  on 
his  character^  and  the  irritating  taunts  that  assailed 
his  order,  from  an  exulting  class  of  wilful  defamers, 
who  hated  because  they  could  neither  conquer  no* 
corrupt  them.  All  that  I  can  learn  of  the  scene  is, 
that  the  lodge^  the  grand  hall,  the  entrance,  and  the 
broad  avenue,  were  thronged  with  the  brave  men  and 
their  weeping  families.  Why,  there  was  hardly  a 
Protestant  child  in  the  country  who  did  not  feel  the" 
insult  and  the  injury.  As  to  the  poor  Romanists,  I  do 
liot  believe  they  took  ariy  pleasure  in  the  proceedings 
except  as  their  guides  pointed  it  but  to  them  as  a 
great  step  towards  crushing  Protestantism,  and  expel- 
ling from  the  land  those  whom  they  are  taught  to  look 
upon  as  alien  usurpers  of  the  soil.  The  Orangemen 
Were  bound  to  credit  the  solemn  assurance5  that  all 
rebellious  societies  should  be  effectually  put  down  if 
they  would  set  the  example  by  dissolving  their  loyal 
association.  I  never  believed  it,  as  you  well  know  5 
and  at  this  moment  every  treasonable  fraternity 
throughout  the  land  is  in  the  full  vigor  of  life  and 
activity,  unchecked  by  the  hand  of  power  j  undis- 
guised in  its  objects  and  effects.  You  will  say  I  am 
dwelling  too  long  on  this  painful  topic  j  but  consider 
how  recently  I  have  sojourned  in  Wexford,  and  the 
view  that  has  been  forced  upon  me,  during  my  short 
18* 


210  JJETTER.    VIIT. 

progress,  of  the  rampant  position  of  Popery,  and  the 
depressed  state  of  Protestantism  on  all  sides.  Gulli- 
bility has  been  often  imputed  to  the  English  people ; 
in  fact,  the  open  honesty  of  their  own  character  unfits 
them  for  the  reception  of  suspicions  misgivings  con- 
cerning  others.  In  this  case  they  are  abused  beyond 
all  that  can  be  conceived  without  thoroughly  investi- 
gating the  matter,  and  sure  I  am  that  they  will  pay 
dearly  for  being  so  grossly  misled  with  regard  to  the 
Protestants  of  Ireland. 

The  native  language  prevails  here  to  a  greater 
extent  than  I  supposed  ;  for  I  thought  it  hardly  exist- 
ed in  the  north.  Lord  Roden  is  a  strenuous  supporter 
pf  the  Irish  Society,  alike  in  word  and  in  deed.  You 
have  already  heard  of  the  school,  with  its  Irish  in- 
scription, by  the  road-side  :  up  in  the  mountains  there 
is  no  lack  of  similar  advantages  for  the  poor  Irish- 
speaking  tenantry ;  and  I  have  conversed  with  a  very 
intelligent,  sensible  master,  himself  a  convert  from 
Popery,  who  finds  much  encouragement  in  his  work.  In 
fact,  there  is  not  an  individual  engaged  in  it  who  does 
not  acknowledge  that  a  blessing  attends  him.  Go 
where  I  will,  and  into  whatever  company,  this  truth  is 
elicited,  often  from  unconscious,  sometimes  from  un- 
willing witnesses,  that  wherever  the  Irish  Bible  finds 
admittance,  there  God  manifests  himself  to  be  the 
author,  not  of  confusion,  but  of  peace.  I  do  not  mean 
to  say  that  the  worst  passions  of  men  are  not  stirred 
up  to  resist  the  message,  and  often  most  dreadfully  to 
maltreat,  yea,  to  murder  the  messenger  ;  but  this  is 
overr  u  led  to  the  wider  spread  of  the  yvo rk ;  and  many  of 
the  fiercest  opposers  become  in  turn  devoted  teachers 
of  what  they  have  vainly  labored  to  destroy.     The 


COUNTY    DOWN.  21 J 

plan  of  the  society  is  to  find  in  any  district  an  intelli- 
gent man,  always  a  Romanist  you  may  be  sure,  who 
well  understands  the  language.  They  give  him  an 
Irish  Testament,  and  a  few  primers  ;  promising  him  a 
small  gratuity  for  each  person  whom  he  shall  have 
taught  to  read,  and  be  able  to  produce  to  the  inspector 
at  his  next  visitation.  By  this  means,  both  masters 
and  pupils  are  brought  into  direct  contact  with  the 
inspired  word  ;  its  flood  of  light  bursts  upon  their 
darkness — its  pure  and  sublime  truths  conveyed  in  a 
language  so  familiar,  so  fondly  endeared  to  them, 
stand  out  in  all  their  majestic  proportions,  and  the 
black,  deformed,  withered  brood  of  anti-christian 
inventions  are  put  to  flight ;  they  cannot  endure  the 
presence  of  the  Holy  One,  revealed  in  his  word.  This, 
this  is  the  object  of  that  desperate  enmity  displayed 
by  Satan  and  his  instruments.  Here  is  the  point  at 
which  they  drive,  in  the  whole  system  of  anti-protest- 
ant  contrivance. 

The  Bible  is  the  mark  to  be  aimed  at,  whether 
through  the  badge  of  an  Orangeman,  the  funds  of  a 
school,  the  temporalities  of  a  parish,  or  the  heart  of  a 
minister.  It  is  by  Protestant  effort  that  the  dreaded 
book  has  free  course,  and  is  glorified,  even  where  Sa- 
tan's seat  is ;  and  by  crushing  Protestantism,  they 
vainly  hope  to  say  to  the  word  of  salvation,  "  Hither 
shalt  thou  go  and  no  further."  They  cannot  succeed: 
no,  they  may  gnaw  their  very  tongues  for  pain,  but 
succeed  they  cannot.  I  do  not  believe  that  any  tri- 
umph obtained  over  the  Protestants,  as  a  body,  will  in 
the  slightest  degree  impede  the  wide- spreading  con- 
quests of  Protestantism.  Quite  the  reverse  :  they  do 
but  provoke  the  Lord  to  jealousy,  setting  the  briars 


212  LETTER  vni. 

and  thorns  in  battle  array  against  him,  and  so  hasten 
the  swift  destruction  that  awaits  their  doomed  church 
and  cause.  My  feelings,  as  I  look  from  the  window 
of  this  dilapidated  Orange  lodge,  to  where  Lord  Ko-* 
den's  Irish  teacher  crosses  the  park,  with  his  Bible 
under  his  arm,  are  those  of  exultation  and  joy.  It  is 
for  my  own  country  I  grieve  5  for  Protestant  England 
thus  beguiled  and  befooled,  and  betrayed  into  an  alli- 
ance against  the  Lord  and  against  his  Christ,-  by 
stretching  out  one  hand  to  snatch  the  blessed  book 
from  the  little  ones  of  poor  Popish  Ireland,  and  thrust 
them  by  thousands  into  the  nunneries  and  monkeries 
that  defile  the  land  which  they  darken :  and  the  other 
to  deal  a  blow  upon  the  very  hearts  of  those  to  whose 
faithful  adherence,  under  God,  she  is  alone  indebted 
for  the  continuance  of  her  empire  over  this  distracted 
part  of  our  island  domain. 

I  must  now  tell  you  something  of  the  Sunday 
schools,  in  which  I  passed  some  very  delightful  hours; 
In  the  morning  I  sat  by,  to  learn  the  method  pursued 
in  Lord  Roden's  own  class,  wThich  is  taught  in  his  ab- 
sence by  Captain  Hill.  Parts  of  th£  Scriptures  are 
taken  in  regular  order ;  and  on  this  occasion,  some 
verses  of  a  Psalm  came  in  course,  which  enabled  me 
to  remark  the  great  attainment  made  in  scriptural 
knowledge  by  the  young  men  and  boys  before  me 
We  then  attended  the  pretty  village  church  of  Bry- 
ansford,  where  sound  doctrine  was  set  forth,  and  very 
earnestly  enforced  by  the  young  curate  of  the  parish. 
Very  soon  after  the  service,  weadjourned  again  to  the 
schools,  and  I  took  courage  to  occupy  the  honored 
place  of  the  absent  master,  and  became  interested 
beyond  measure  in  the  work.    There  were  four  young 


COUNTY    DOWN.  213 

men — a  gardener  and  a  groom  of  Lord  Roden's,  and 
two  Romanists  from  the  neighborhood — whose  an- 
swering showed  not  only  what  culture  they  had  enjoy- 
ed, but  on  what  a  soil  that  culture  was  bestowed.  For 
the  two  latter,  who  sat  at  the  head  of  the  class,  my 
very  soul  was  moved  in  fervent,  importunate,  though 
secret  prayer  to  God  for  their  deliverance  from  the 
yoke  which  as  yet  they  had  not  shaken  off.  The 
chapter,  in  the  Book  of  Kings,  did  not  afford  me  the 
opportunity  of  getting  in  all  that  I  wanted,  but  at 
length  I  was  able  to  revert,  naturally,  to  Kebekah's 
mode  of  procuring  the  promised  blessing  for  Jacob; 
and  so  managed,  that  the  question  should  come  in 
course  to  the  most  intellectual,  and,  as  I  secretly  knew, 
the  most  bigoted  of  tjie  Romanists,  Whether  it  was 
lawful  to  do  evil  that  good  might  ensue  1  He  main- 
tained that  it  was  ;  and  we  fairly  contested  that 
point;  while  his  arch  smiles  and  increasing  animation 
showed  that  he  fully  understood  my  object,  and  knew 
I  was  aware  of  his  creed.  He  was  left  without  an 
answer  at  last ;  and  the  workings  of  earnest  thought 
in  his  lively  expressive  countenance,  showed,  that 
without  even  a  shade  of  anger  or  ill-humor  he  took  a 
very  deep  interest  in  the  matter.  It  was  such  a  joy  to 
me  to  see  with  what  alacrity  these  men  kneeled  down, 
and  with  what  sober  devotion  they  seemed  to  join  in 
the  closing  prayer.  God  grant  that  they  be  found  on 
the  light  hand  of  the  throne  on  the  great  day,  seals 
among  many  others,  to  the  faithful  ministry  of  this 
noble  and  just  steward  ! 

There  is  no  second  service  at  the  church,  so  the 
domestic  chapel  was  fairly  crowded  in  the  evening; 
when  a  pastor  from  the  mountai  3  some  way  off,  the 


214  LETTER    VIII. 

very  beau-ideal  of  a  Flavel  or  a  Baxter,  led  the  devo- 
tions, and  preached  at  considerable  length  on  that  rich 
passage,  Exod.  xxxiii.  12,  &c.  It  afforded  quite  a 
taste  of  old  divinity,  as  the  after  conversation  of  the 
good  man  did  of  the  zeal,  love  and  simple  devotedness 
of  former  times.  I  cannot  tell  exactly  in  what  con- 
sists the  charm  that  appears  to  hang  over  this  place, 
but  I  seem  to  realize  here  a  state  of  being  of  which  I 
had  only  dreamed  before  :  yet,  they  tell  me,  it  is  a 
very  melancholy  time,  for  Lord  Roden  is  away.  I  am 
going  to  attempt  a  gallant  enterprise,  at  which  every- 
body smiles,  no  less  than  that  of  scaling  Slieve  Donard. 
A  party  is  formed,  chiefly  of  buoyant  young  people, 
who  kindly  promise  to  leave  a  basket  of  provisions 
for  my  benefit,  some  half  or  one  third  of  the  way  up, 
that  I  may  not  be  starved  or  stupified  during  their  long 
absence.  I  take  it  all  very  kindly^  but  fully  intend  to 
eat  my  share  of  the  good  things  within  the  circle  of 
stones  that  looks  from  this  house  like  a  common  mile- 
stone) but  which  they  tell  me  is  the  size  of  a  church 
at  least  in  circumference.  I  never  succeeded  in 
mounting  even  an  ordinary-sized  eminence  without 
difficulty,  through  giddiness  of  head.  Vinegar  Hill, 
which  would  be  a  microscopic  object  beside  these 
Mourne  mountains,  almost  baffled  me  j  but  my  heart 
is  set  on  this  exploit,  and  I  fully  expect  to  achieve  it. 
There  is  a  prospect  of  unequalled  magnificence,  I  am 
told,  from  the  summit  of  Donard,  embracing,  besides 
an  immense  tract  of  Irish  scenery,  the  mountains  of 
Scotland,  Cumberland,  and  Wales  :  and  as  the  weather 
is  brilliant  we  expect  a  noble  view.  At  all  events, 
there  will  be  more  to  brag  of  in  having  attempted 
Slieve  Donard,  than  in  walking  over  the  crown  of  any 
heisrht  I  have  elsewhere  beheld* 


LETTER    IX. 


COUNTY   DOWN. 


Tollymore  Park, 
The  period  of  my  happy  sojourn  here  is  now  well 
nigh  expired  ;  and  I  must  give  you  the  particulars  of 
our  excursion  while  yet  I  may  raise  my  eye  from  the 
paper  to  the  lofty  subject  of  the  tale.  There  he  rises, 
with  his  head  just  unveiled  from  a  dense  cloud,  the 
sunshine  striking  brilliantly  upon  its  nicely-rounded 
point,  and  imparting  a  smile  that  seems  to  add  another 
to  the  many  joyous  looks  which  have  brightened  the 
whole  district  for  the  last  two  or  three  days.  I  mighty 
to  be  sure,  have  told  you  all  this  in  four  words — Lord 
Roden  is  here.  But  though  you  have  witnessed,  aye, 
and  ardently  joined  in  the  burst  of  welcoming  plaudits 
that  greet  him  in  Exeter  Hall,  you  can  form  no  idea 
of  the  quiet  yet  brilliant  sunniness  that  is  shed  on  his 
own  family,  his  own  household,  his  own  tenants  and 
poor  neighbors,  by  the  presence  of  one  whom  tv 
Lord  has  given  to  be  a  blessing  wherever  he  goes 
Oh  that  every  mountain  in  dear  Ireland  had  a  Toll} 
more  Park  at  its  foot ;  and  every  cabin  a  Roden  t . 
care  for  its  poor  inmates !  I  have  long  appreciated 
his  character,  nay,  venerated  it :  but  one  must  see  his 
very  face  reflected  in  the  sparkling  eyes  of  his  own 


216  LETTER    IX. 

people  to  know  how  they  prize  him.  And  whose  testi- 
mony shall  be  taken  before  fchat  of  the  poor  creatures 
who  are  taught  by  their  spiritual  guides  that  to  love 
such  a  heretic  is  a  sin :  to  hate  and  to  injure  him,  a 
step  heavenwards  :  yet  who  would  give  their  lives  for 
him  any  day  or  hour  ? 

This  digression  was  occasioned  by  a  glimpse  of  my 
noble   host,  passing  down    to  his  favorite    saw-mill. 
And  now  for  Slieve  Doriard  in  earnest.     Our  party,  as 
I  told  you,   was  very  youthful :  my  own  particular 
beau,  Mr.  Hill,  being   somewhat  under  twelve  years, 
his  sister  not  much  older,  and  only  one  besides  my- 
self come  to  years   of  grave  discretion — an  English 
lady,  who  had  before  accomplished  the  ascent,  as  had 
Lady  Maria,  and  all   but  W.  and  myself.     We  started 
most  merrily,  some  on  a  car  and  the  rest  in  a  phaeton, 
and  dashed  quickly  through  the  pretty  little  town  of 
Newcastle.     Here  we  found   ourselves    with  the  sea 
spreading  broadly  on  our  right,  and   on  the   left  the 
beginning    of  an   ascent    that    it    really  seemed  chi- 
merical to  attempt  achieving,     We  had  wound  along 
the   foot  of  the   Black  Mountain,  and  arrived  where 
nothing  but  Slieve  Doriard  appeared,  heaving  a  broad 
shoulder  towards  the  sea,   and  raising  his  tonsured 
head  above  it  at  a  most  forbidding  altitude.     Nothing 
daunted,   however,  we  made  our  arrangements,  bur- 
dened our  guide  with  an   enormous  basket  of  provi- 
sions, and  wheedled  a  little   bare-headed,  oare-footed 
gossoon  to   carry  our  cloaks  and  shawls.     The  first 
stage  was  very  unpleasant :  an  iron  rail-road  formed 
to  conduct  heavy  loads  of  stone  from  a  quarry  above, 
tried  both  patience  and  shoe-leather  in  no  ordinary 
degree.     I  quite  longed  to  reach  the  heathery  region 


COU.NTY    DOWN  217 

above  ;  and  was  not  a  little  encouraged  by  a  very 
common  deception  occasioned  by  the  disappearance  of 
the  actual  crown  of  the  hill  behind  that  which  rose  so 
steeply  before  us.  Laborious  it  certainly  must  be, 
but  not  so  unattainable  as  at  first  it  had  seemed  ;  and 
after  protracted  efforts,  with  frequent  applications  to 
the  reviving  waters  of  a  most  lovely  rill  that  fell, 
rather  than  ran  down  the  mountain  side,  we  seemed 
to  near  the  object  oi  our  anticipations.  The  pre- 
vailing impression  on  my  mind  was  that  I  had  at 
length  discovered  the  full  meaning  of  two  words — 
fatigue  and  hunger:  for  the  freshening  air,  which  by 
means  of  our  drapery  impeded  our  progress  not  a 
little,  gave  such  an  edge  to  the  appetite,  that  I  think 
the  prospect  of  Mike's  basket  as  he  trudged  in  the 
van,  that  is,  over  our  heads,  drew  me  onward  with 
attractive  force.  Certainly  I  would  not  then  have 
bartered  my  expected  share  of  its  contents  for  the 
fee-simple  of  all  the  hills  of  Mourne.  When  next 
you  are  troubled  with  a  failure  of  appetite,  do  not 
apply  to  the  doctor  until  you  have  tried  the  effect  of 
an  altitude  of  fifteen  hundred  feet,  attained  by  your 
own  exertions  on  a  blowing  day,  just  over  the  sea. 

But  the  top  was  so  near]  Mike  shortly  disappeared 
over  it,  and  after  a  rest  of  a  few  minutes  wTe  followed. 
It  was  one  of  the  most  startling  discoveries  that  ever 
poor  worn-out  traveller  made.  We  had  indeed  gained 
the  highest  point,  not  of  Slieve  Donard's  head,  but  of 
his  shoulder  ;  and  there  rose  the  formidable  dome, 
for  such  it  exactly  appeared  and  probably  is  in  shape, 
its  sides  presenting  seemingly  a  surface  of  rude  rock, 
a  little  interspersed  with  vegetation.  -'  You  had  better 
remain  here  while  we  go  forward,"  was  the  kind 
19 


218  LETTER    IX. 

suggestion  ;  and  one  at  least  offered  to  stay  with  me  5 
but  the  downward  view  convinced  me  that  we  had 
reached  an  immense  height ;  and  as  the  clouds 
gathered  quickly  over  us,  I  thought  it  better  to  bide  a 
mountain  storm  under  the  shelter  of  the  stone  walls 
that  peeped  over  the  highest  point.  Besides,  it  would 
be  too  mortifying  to  be  condoled  with  on  the  failure 
of  such  an  enterprise  :  so  with  renewed  resolution  the 
toil  was  resumed,  and  proved  lighter  than  appearances 
led  me  to  expect ;  for  those  rocky  protuberances 
furnished  excellent  stepping-stones,  being  generally 
flat  on  the  upper  surface,  with  abundance  of  tough 
fern  and  heather  to  afford  a  safe  hold  in  climbing  ; 
while  every  fresh  pause  for  breath  opened  a  more 
splendid  view  than  the  preceding,  as  I  turned  to  lean 
against  the  hill,  and  gazed  upon  the  beautiful  bay 
below,  with  the  increasing  range  of  coast  on  either 
hand. 

Four  hours  were  passed  in  struggling  against  the 
difficulties  of  the  ascent  ;  and  when  at  length  we 
actually  stood  on  the  highest  pinnacle  of  this  magnifi- 
cent steep,  the  prospect,  marred  and  circumscribed 
as  it  was  by  a  drizzling  rain,  would  have  overpaid 
twice  the  effort.  If  nothing  else  had  been  visible  but 
the  house  and  park  of  Tollymore  I  should  not  have 
complained  ;  diminished  to  a  very  toy,  they  yet  look- 
ed so  lovely,  so  securely  nestled  at  the  foot  of  that 
tremendous  sweep,  that  I  shall  carry  the  picture  in 
my  mind's  eye  while  I  live.  The  sensation  of  stand- 
ing at  such  a  height  above  the  abodes  of  men  was 
very  strange  to  me :  it  was  also  very  delightful  j  and 
while  all  were  lamenting  my  disappointment  in  not 
having  a  clear  day  and  extensive  view,  I  did  not  even 


COUNTY    DOWN.  219 

wish  for  them.  Nothing  could  be  more  striking  than 
the  spectacle  of  the  whole  gigantic  range  of  Mourne 
Mountains, — visible  from  the  further  side  of  the  bay 
of  Dublin,  and  from  points  yet  more  remote — spread 
like  so  many  hillocks  beneath  us.  But  though  dimin- 
ished to  the  eye,  in  grandeur  of  effect  they  lost  noth- 
ing ;  for  the  alternate  swell  and  depression,  the  fre- 
quent gully  and  ravine,  the  grouping,  or  if  I  may 
speak,  the  massing  together  of  these  "  everlasting 
hills,"  and  the  sober  mantling  of  their  giant  forms  in 
a  vestment  of  dark  brownish  green,  deepened  almost 
into  purple  by  the  sprinkling  of  small  heather  bells  in 
every  part,  all  combiued  to  furnish  such  a  foreground 
that.  1  should  have  had  little  notice  to  spare  for  any- 
thing that  might  lie  beyond  it,  had  the  state  of  the 
atmosphere  revealed  it  all.  It  was  only  by  walking 
to  the  very  verge  of  the  mountain's  scalp  that  I  could 
obtain  a  sight  of  Tollymore  Park  and  house ;  the  for- 
mer in  its  emerald  green,  the  latter  of  the  purest 
white,  gave  the  idea  which  of  all  others  best  accords 
with  the  reality  of  the  thing  j  that  of  a  milk-white 
dove  nestled  in  the  boughs  of  a  noble  tree:  and  ear- 
nestly did  I  pray  that  such  might  ever  be  the  charac- 
ter of  that  sanctified  abode  of  peace  and  love.  There 
was,  however,  much  of  pain  mingled  with  the  hour's 
enjoyment.  The  heap  o£  stones  furnish  a  melancholy 
evidence  of  that  zeal  for  God  which  is  not  according 
to  knowledge;  those  strenuous  efforts  of  man  to  es- 
tablish his  own  righteousness  that  must  end  in  ever- 
lasting disappointment.  The  stones  are  of  various 
sizes;  many  so  large  that  my  utmostefforts  could  not 
Jiave  moved  one  of  them  >  yet  all  have  been  brought 
ap  this  laborious  ascent,  either  as  a  matter  of  atoning 


220  LETTER.  IX. 

or  meritorious  work,  by  the  poor  Romanists  of  a  for- 
mer age.  They  are  arranged,  or  rather  rudely  heaped 
in  an  imperfect  circle,  with  some  appearance  of  a  di- 
vision into  two  or  more  apartments.  Inclosed  within 
the  range  is  a  well  which  the  guide  told  us  was  holy ; 
and  the  little  boy  who  carried  cur  cloaks  added  that 
the  water  would  heal  any  sick  person  who  was  dipped 
in  that  well.  Near  it  was  a  broad  slab  supported  on 
uneven  blocks,  and  which,  from  the  vegetation  that 
crept  round  it,  must  have  been  there  a  toug  time — 
this  was  used  as  an  altar.  Thepktceis  now  forsaken, 
so  far  as  its  supposed  sanctity  is  concerned  ;  but  the 
delusion,  alas  !  still  spreads  from  shore  to-  shore  of 
this  lovely,  ill-fated  land,  and  to  whatever  point  the 
eye  can  turn,  Rome  is  exalted,  God  is  dishonored, 
and  man  betrayed. 

The  exact  elevation  of  SHeve^  Donard  above  the  sea> 
is  matter  of  dispute  >  some  rate.it  at  3200  feet :  none 
calculate  it  at  less  than  2S90.  The  great  abruptness 
of  its  rise,  and  the  narrow  dome  in  which  it  termi- 
nates, add  much  to  the  effect  of  its  real  altitude.  It 
is  a  princely  mountain,  and  until  I  meet  a  nobler,  I 
must  call  it  king  of  its  race.  Nothing  can  be  finer 
than  to  see  its  lofty  head  emerge  from  a  cloud,  as  it 
has  done  more  than  once  since  I  began  this  letter: 
and  I  am  told  we  were  wrapped  in  one  during  great 
part  of  the  time  that  we  trod  its  majestic  heights. 
An  hour  was  allowed  for  rest  and  refreshment,  during 
which  Mike's  basket  was  lightened  to  his  heart's  con- 
tent :  and  then  commenced  the  delicate  task  of  de- 
scending from  our  high  station  to  the  level  of  ordinary 
mortals.  Among-  my  many  debts  of  gratitude  in  this 
place,  I  shall  not  forget  what  I  owe  to  Lady  Marians 


COUNTY  DOWN.  221 

iuw  garden-spud,  which  she  recommended  as  an 
alpenstock,  and  without  which  I  should,  I  verily 
think,  have  had  the  less  agreeable  memento  of  sprains 
and  broken  bones  to  freshen  my  recollections  oi* 
Slieve  Donard.  Many  an  adventurous  leap  was  taken 
in  reliance  on  its  slender  point,  and  I  will  not  deny 
that  I  measured  sundry  parts  of  the  mountain's  side 
by  my  own  length  j  consoled,  however,  by  seeing 
others  occasionally  do  the  same.  Nothing  damped 
the  merriment  of  the  party,  now  widely  dispersed,  as 
each  undertook  to  explore  the  very  best  path  for  an 
involuntary  race. 

The  descent  was  very  rapid,  and  altogether  exceed- 
ingly pleasant;  the  sea  spreading  out  broadly   in  our 
front,    and    the    delicious    breeze  bringing  perpetual 
refreshment,  even  when  we  no   longer  felt  the   keen 
bracing  air  of  the  higher  mountain.     The  weather  had 
varied  ;  little  rain  falling,  and  that  only   in  a   slight 
drizzle,  until  we  were  fairly  within  reach  of  our   um- 
brellas, which  had  been  left  below;  then  it  came  down 
in   torrents,  and  ihe  "  cead-mille   failthe"  in   the  hall 
saluted  a  dripping  party,  well  able  to  appreciate   its 
value.     It  must  have   been  owing   to   the  wonderful 
ascendency  of  mind  over  matter,  that,  after  changing 
my  dress  for  drier  materials,  I  felt  no   more  fatigue 
than  if  I  had  been   strolling   for  an  hour  along   the 
margin  of  the  mountain-river  below.     1  cannot  other- 
wise account  for  it ;  the  four  hours'  upward  toil,  dur- 
ing which  I   frequently  threw  myself  down   on  the 
slope  to   gain  a  little  breath,  and    power   to  proceed, 
while  every   bone  and  sinew  protested  against  such 
cruel  taxation  ;  the  jolts,  jars,  and  falls  in  descending, 
with  the  intolerable  annoyance   of  the   slippery   rail- 
19* 


222  LETTER  IX. 

way,  which  induced  some  of  the  party  to  take  off 
their  shoes  for  a  more  secure  footing,  and  which  all 
allowed  to  be  the  worst  part  of  the  day's  work,  left 
with  me  no  sensation  of  bodily  fatigue,  but  an  exhila- 
ration of  spirits,  equally  visible  on  each  of  our  party, 
which,  if  I  had  not  experienced  its  reality  in  my  own 
case,  I  might  have  fancied  to  be  assumed  for  a  vaunt. 
Yet,  looking,  at  tea-time,  from  the  windows  of  the 
library  to  the  very  spot  where  we  had  stood  a  few 
hours  before,  it  did  appear  very  much  like  a  dream 
to  have  actually  achieved  such  a  feat  since  breakfast ; 
and  I  will  confess  that  nothing  would  tempt  me  to  a 
similar  exploit  anywhere  but  in  this  bewitching  Ire- 
land. They  tell  me  there  is  rougher  work  in  prospect 
among  the  mountains  of  Donegal,  but  you  may  ex- 
pect to  hear  that  we  have  accomplished  it  also. 

The  following  day  was  a  season  of  jubilee:  I  had 
just  finished  a  most  interesting  and  truly  gratifying 
examination  of  Lady  Roden's  Scripture  class  in  the 
Girls'  School — had  just  made  every  eye  among  them 
sparkle  and  glisten,  by  introducing  as  an  illustration 
of  "  love  fulfilling  the  law,"  the  pain  it  would  give 
them  to  be  tempted  to  do  anything  injurious  to  the 
interests,  or  contrary  to  the  wishes  of  their  noble 
landlord,  benefactor  and  friend,  when,  as  we  left  the 
door  of  the  sweet  pretty  school-house,  a  shout  of  joy 
made  Lady  Roden  start,  and  the  next  moment  her 
son,  who  was  not  expected  from  school  in  England 
for  a  week  or  more,  threw  himself  from  his  horse  into 
his  mother's  arms;  with  the  joyous  intelligence  of 
having  ridden  forward  to  announce  that  his  dear 
father  would  be  here  in  ten  minutes.  Cannot  you 
fancy  how  the  faces  looked,  in  every  feature  of  which 


COUNTY   DOWN.  223 

a  warm  Irish  heart  was  eloquently  speaking  its  glad- 
ness 1  The  very  trees  seemed  to  wave  more  play- 
fully, the  flowers  to  shine  in  gayer  colors  ;  and  the 
"  cead-mille  failthe"  to  stand  out  in  stronger  relief, 
and  deeper  gilding  than  before.  There  was  a  deep 
quiet  happiness  seated  in  the  looks  of  the  domestics, 
as  they  stood  on  the  look-out,  or  passed  through  the 
apartments  with  a  rapid  glance,  to  see  that  all  was  as 
the  master  would  wish  to  find  it.  I  met  Captain  Hill 
in  the  hall ;  we  could  only  look  each  other  in  the 
face,  and  shake  hands,  for  many  a  word  have  we 
spoken  of  mutual  encouragement  to  pray  for  the  pre- 
servation of  him  whom  we  both  view,  in  his  high  cha- 
racter of  a  Christian  patriot,  as  one  of  the  richest 
gifts  conferred  by  the  Lord  our  God  on  this  dear, 
desolated,  misunderstood,  and  misgoverned  country. 
At  that  moment  our  hearts  were  too  full  for  speech. 

A  great  deal  is  said  of  the  mischiefs  of  absentee- 
ism :  it  is  indeed  a  crying  evil ;  but  residence  alone 
will  do  little  real  good.  A  man  may  live  on  his  pro- 
perty, maintain  a  large  establishment,  keep  open 
house,  give  a  stimulus  to  trade,  and  have  his  eye 
upon  his  tenantry,  yet  do  less  good  than  harm.  There 
are  two  classes  of  resident  landlords  very  common  in 
Ireland  and  very  injurious  to  it.  One  profess  en- 
larged liberality  of  feeling ;  they  invite  the  priest  to 
their  table,  make  light  of  all  difference  of  opinion — 
with  them  it  is  indeed  nothing-  more — subscribe  to 
his  chapel,  patronise  the  national  board  schools,  and 
leave  them  under  his  superintendence.  They  consi- 
der it  equally  the  duty  of  a  Romanist  to  go  to  mass 
and  confession,  to  be  idle  on  holidays,  and  to  observe 
black  lent  if  enjoined,  as  it  is  that  of  a  Protestant  to 


224<  LETTER    IX. 

go  to  church,  pay  his  tithes,  and  keep  his  promises 
These  gentlemen  are  the  chief  foster-nurses  of  Popery 
without  knowing-  or  intending  it;  their  influence  and 
example  alike  assist  to  rivet  the  chains  of  error,  and 
to  heap  up  fuel  for  the  beacon-fires  of  rebellion.  They 
may  in  their  hearts  wish  the  country  a  fair  riddance  of 
every  Romish  priest  within  its  circuit ;  but  they  ex- 
pect to  purchase  an  exemption  from  the  general  rule 
of  enmity  against  Protestants,  by  abstaining  from  all 
that  savors  of  a  protest :  and  even  should  they  send 
a  stout  conservative  to  Parliament,  or  go  there  them- 
selves in  that  character,  the  political  bias  is  kept  care- 
fully distinct  from  the  religious  peculiarity  ;  and  they 
are  always  ready  to  bear  witness  how  loyal,  how 
peaceable,  how  well  disposed  are  their  own  "  catholic" 
neighbors  and  dependents. 

The  other  body  is  composed  of  men  whose  preju- 
dices blend  in  one  confused  object  of  reprobation  the 
sin  and  the  sinner,  Popery  and  the  Papist — the  curse 
of  Ireland,  and  her  native  race  who  wither  beneath 
that  curse.  They  abhor  the  priest,  abominate  the 
mass-house,  abjure  the  national  schools,  and  firmly 
believe  that  nothing  but  the  fullest  establishment  of 
Protestant  ascendency  can  save  this  island.  They 
are  perfectly  right,  so  far;  but  in  their  detestation  of 
what  the  aborigines  of  the  land  have  become,  they 
lose  all  sense,  or  nearly  so,  of  what  is  due  to  them  as 
brothers  of  the  same  nature,  heirs  of  a  like  immor- 
tality of  being,  whether  for  happiness  or  misery. 
Fully  aware  of  the  desperate  craft  of  Popery,  and  the 
iron  grasp  which  it  fixes  on  the  human  mind,  and  the 
dreadful  perversion  of  intellect  and  faculty  that  it  in- 
duces, they  hold  the  case  to  be  hopeless  :  the  native 


COUNTY    DOWN.  225 

race,  t^ey  say,  are  too  savage,  too  barbarous,  too 
treacherous,  too  blood-thirsty  to  be  reclaimed  ;  and 
the  only  p'an  is  to  tra  i  port  them,  fettered  as  they 
are  in  ignorance  and  sin,  to  some  distant  shore,  anci 
to  colonize  the  land  with  Scotch  and  English  Protest- 
ants. 1  his  is  their  real  opinion,  however  it  may  be 
softened  either  by  prudence  or  the  natural  benevolence 
of  their  hears.  They  feel  as  though,  like  the  Israel- 
ites of  old,  they  had  a  commission  to  destroy  or  drive 
out  the  original  inhabitants  of  the  land  because  of 
their  si  is.  Yet  they  are  often  among  the  most  kind 
and  ju-t  of  landlords:  they  extend  their  bounty  to 
the  bodies  of  the  poor  Irish,  and  deeply  regret  the 
state  of  their  souls;  but  if  you  suggest  any  attempt 
at  convincing  them  of  their  errors  and  converting 
them  to  God  by  means  of  the  Bible,  you  are  told,  it 
is  impossible:  that  the  Irish  race  are  beyond  your 
reach :  that  they  will  either  reject  your  attempt 
with  insult,  or  else  from  mercenary  motives  pretend 
to  be  impressed,  affect  a  reformation,  and  then  take 
the  first  favorable  opportunity  of  cutting  your  throat. 
Can  it  be  wondered  at  if  country  gentlemen  hold  sueh 
sentiments,  when  even  clergymen  have  been  known 
to  utter  them,  and  at  public  meetings  too — bringing 
as  deep  and  as  undeserved  disgrace  on  the  Orange 
badge  which  they  usurped,  as  they  did  on  the  church 
whose  professed  ministers  they  were. 

Now  I  say,  these  two  classes  had  better  be  absentees 
than  not.  The  former  give  materials  to  form  the 
rebel's  pike:  the  latter  sharpen  its  point:  both  over- 
look the  origin  of  the  disease,  and  both  despise  the 
cure.  1  here  is  another  class — oh  that  the  Lord  may 
increase  it  !  I  will  take  Lord  Roden  as  a  specimen, 
and   in  simply   stating  what    he  holds,  and   what   he 


226  LETTER    IX. 

does,  I  go  as  far  as  I  conceive  it  possible  to  go  in 
portraying  the  remedy  for  Irish  ills.  Like  the  first- 
named  body  of  men,  he  shows  all  courtesy  and  kind- 
ness, without  distinction  of  creed  or  party  ;  but  he 
gives  no  countenance  to  priestly  influence  by  making 
a  guest  of  the  man  who  exercises  it  5  his  purse  is 
open  to  build  a  cabin  for  any  poor  Romanist,  but 
not  a  fraction  of  the  smallest  coin  that  ever  it  held 
would  he  dare  to  contribute  to  any  purpose  connected 
with  the  antichristian  worship  of  Rome  5  neither  does 
he,  by  counsel  or  by  silence,  sanction  the  soul-destroy- 
ing practices  of  the  people.  Conservative  in  the 
highest  degree,  he  takes  his  station  in  the  senate, 
and  there  maintains  an  open  undisguised  protest 
against  Popery,  in  all  its  ramifications,  theoretical 
and  practical,  general  and  local,  ecclesiastical,  politi- 
cal, and  moral :  surrounded  as  he  really  is  by  an 
attached  and  grateful  tenantry,  their  personal  regard 
for  himself  does  not  blind  him  to  the  fact,  that  if  com- 
manded by  their  priesthood,  they  must,  at  the  peril 
of  their  souls,  set  fire  to  his  house,  and  massacre  his 
family;  therefore  he  advances  on  their  behalf  no  plea 
of  exemption  from  the  universal  blot.  Lord  Roden 
believes,  with  the  other  class  enumerated,  yea,  he 
knows,  that  without  the  firm  establishment  of  Pro- 
testant ascendency  in  every  department,  prosperity  in 
any  shape  cannot  visit  this  people:  but  while  rigidly 
enforcing  its  necessity  in  external  matters,  he  bears 
in  mind  that  Protestantism  is,  in  fact,  a  distinguishing 
name  for  true  Christianity  ;  and  the  ascendency  for. 
which  he  chiefly  labors,  is  that  of  divine  truth  over 
the  heart  and  conscience  of  man.  He  wars  against 
the  priest,  the  mass-house,  and  the  national  board,  by 


COUNTY    DOWN.  227 

upholding  the  authority  of  God's  word,  pure,  free, 
and  unmutilated,  against  all  systems  of  human  or  dia- 
bolical contrivance.  He  assumed  the  Orange  badge 
as  an  open  pledge  to  each  poor  Protestant,  that  in 
him  he  should  find  a  helper  in  the  common  cause;  as 
a  token  to  each  deluded  Romanist  that  he  was  neither 
afraid  nor  ashamed  to  avow  in  the  bosom  of  his  re- 
tired home,  or  among  thousands  of  opposers,  the 
same  principles  that  he  maintains  within  the  safe 
walls  of  the  British  Parliament ;  and  as  a  public 
manifesto  that  those  principles  are  identically  what 
called  the  house  of  Orange  to  the  throne  of  these 
realms.  At  the  same  time,  his  wish  was  to  revive  in 
the  order  its  originally  spiritual  and  patriotic  charac- 
ter, which  had  been  much  weakened  since  its  first 
institution.  By  the  way,  this  elevation  of  its  charac- 
ter was  the  chief  inducement  for  putting  it  down  ; 
just  as  Hunne  was  murdered  for  openly  confessing  the 
truth,  and  adorning  it  with  his  life.  Once  more,  Lord 
Roden  is  fully  aware  of  the  depth  of  debasement  into 
which  the  native  race  have  fallen  ;  but  he  well  knows 
what  cast  them  down,  and  diligently  works  the  lever 
that  alone  can  raise  them  up  again.  Gladly  would 
he  see  Popery  banished,  totally  and  for  ever  from  his 
estate,  and  from  the  land ;  still,  looking  to  Him  who 
li  willeth  not  the  death  of  a  sinner,  but  rather  that  he 
should  be  converted  and  live,"  he  strives  to  accom- 
plish the  gracious  purpose  of  his  Master,  by  saving, 
not  destroying ;  by  enclosing  within  the  fold,  not  by 
driving  yet  further  from  its  boundaries  the  poor  lost 
sheep  of  the  house  that  once  was  God's  Israel  in  this 
land.  Lord  Roden  tenderly  and  widely  cares  for  the 
personal  comfort,  the  well-being  and  well-doing  of 


228  LETTER    IX. 

every  individual  on  his  property,  and  he  uses  the  in- 
fluence thus  acquired  over  their  better  feelings  as  a 
means  of  doin^  croodto  their  souls.  He  is  not  ashamed 
to  bear  the  contemptible  reproach  of  trying  to  .pro- 
selytize, by  introducing  the  word  of  God  where  it 
would  not  be  received  from  any  hand,  save  that  of  a 
kind,  munificent  landlord  ;  on  the  contrary,  he  feels 
that  he  could  not  otherwise  be  a  faithful  steVvard  of 
the  worldly  gifts  entrusted  to  him  by  his  Master  who, 
in  holy  writ,  often  pleads  as  a  testimony  of  His  wil- 
lingness to  save  men's  souls,  the  liberality  with  which 
he  giveth  them  richly  all  temporal  things  to  enjoy, 
filling  their  hearts  with  food  and  gladness.  It  is 
strange  how  entirely  some  Christian  people  seem  to 
forget  that  they  must  follow  Christ  through  evil  as 
well  as  through  good  report ;  and  I  remember  the 
time  when  I  felt  disposed  rather  to  beg  and  to  work  for 
the  cause  of  missions  to  the  heathen  abroad,  than  to 
speak  to  the  heathen  at  home,  that  they  might  be 
saved.  The  reason  of  this  lurking  preference  I  was 
not  long  in  detecting  :  the  former  would  bring  on  me 
a  good  report — the  latter,  perhaps,  an  evil  one,  with 
much  present  disappointment,  vexation,  and  mortifi- 
cation. You  know,  I  got  resolution  given  me  to  take 
up  the  cross  and  to  unfold  the  banner  at  my  very 
door  j  and  I  am  no  stranger  to  the  various  contri- 
vances of  Satan  to  obstruct  such  a  work,  sometimes 
with  the  unconscious  help  of  pious  friends,  damping 
by  their  cold  maxims  of  regard  to  the  world's  good 
opinion  a  flame  that  they  ought  to  have  fanned  and 
fed.  To  be  sure  they  never  did  really  damp  it,  thanks 
be  to  God ;  and  I  feel  now  enabled  to  defy  all  dis- 
couragement in  my  own  little  narrow  sphere  of  hos- 


COUNTY   DOWN.  229 

tilities  against  Great  Babylon,  since  witnessing  what 
my  noble  friends — and  I  am  prouder  to  call  them  my 
friends  than  I  should  be  to  call  Europe  my  dominions 
■ — persevere  in  doing  for  the  cause  of  Christ  among 
their  poor  neighbors. 

Lord  Roden,  being  obliged  to  go  to  Newry,  sent  mo 
on  an  excursion  up  the  Green  mountain — that  is, 
the  richly,  beautifully  planted  height  over  which  the 
Black  mountain  and  SlieveDonard  look  down  upon  us 
—  to  visit  some  of  his  cottagers:  one  scene  affected 
me  greatly.  The  exquisite  beauty  of  the  winding  track 
by  which  Lady  Maria  drove  me  in  the  little  pony 
phaeton,  now  crossing  the  romantic  river  by  a  bridge 
as  wildly  picturesque  as  itself,  now  following  its 
course,  where  the  most  lovely  cascades  were  pro- 
duced by  the  downward  slope  of  its  channel ;  then 
completely  closed  in,  and  embowered  by  the  luxuriant 
foliage  that  overhung  the  path  ;  and  again  looking 
from  the  hill-side,  through  a  casual  vista,  upon  the 
sparkling  waters  of  the  deep  blue  sea ;  all  this  had 
almost  driven  from  my  thoughts  the  ultimate  object 
of  the  delicious  drive,  until  we  came  to  a  rude  gate, 
outside  of  which  we  left  the  quiet,  petted  little 
pony  to  take  care  of  himself  and  the  carriage,  and 
proceeded  to  a  pretty-looking  cottage  a  short  way 
beyond  it. 

The  woman  to  whom  I  was  first  introduced,  sat  close 
beside  her  bed,  aged,  and  evidently  feeble,  and  more- 
over totally  blind.  When  told  that  a  strange  lady  was  by 
her,  she  bowed,  and  gave  a  courteous  welcome,  but 
with  that  tremulous  timidity  which  usually  attends  utter 
blindness  under  such  circumstances.  I  then  said,  "  It 
was  by  dear  Lord  Roden's  desire  that  I  came  to  visit 


230  t  LETTER    IX. 

you  ;  he  could  not  accompany  us  to-day,"  and  was  going 
on  to  deliver  his  Lordship's  kind  message,  but  she, 
judging  I  suppose  by  the  tone  that  the  expression 
came  from  my  heart,  repeated,  "  Dear  Lord  Roden, — 
anybody  who  loves  Lord  Roden  is  welcome  indeed  I" 
and  groping  with  both  her  trembling  hands  till  she 
found  my  arm,  she  grasped  it  with  a  fervency  suited 
to  her  looks.  I  asked,  playfully,  "  Do  you  then  know 
anybody  who  does  not  love  Lord  Roden  1"  and  many 
laughing  faces  came  about  me  to  join  in  the  blind 
woman's  eager  negative.  She  then  told,  with  tears 
of  gladness,  what  a  blessing  her  soul  had  received 
through  the  ministry  of  her  honored  master ;  and 
dwelt  on  all  the  privileges  connected  with  the  recep- 
tion of  Christ  crucified  into  her  heart.  Her  dress  had 
caught  fire  just  before,  without  her  being  conscious 
of  it ;  and  while  her  daughter  carefully  pinned  up  the 
scorched  rents  to  improve  her  appearance,  she  dwelt 
with  glowing  joy  on  the  security  of  the  Lord's  poor 
iittle  flock,  let  what  may  betide  their  bodies.  The 
sorest  of  her  trials  was  that  of  being  now  prevented 
Dy  increasing  infirmities  from  attending  the  chapel,  so 
far  below  the  site  of  her  mountain  abode;  but  with 
this  too  she  had  learned  to  be  content.  Before  leav- 
ing the  apartment,  I  was  asked  to  look  into  the  neigh- 
boring bed,  and  see  the  fine  little  baby  just  added  to 
the  family  party,  consisting  of  three  generations. 
Such  a  bright,  smiling,  intelligent  face  as  the  mother 
lifted  up  to  greet  us ;  and  such  a  glow  of  pleasure 
overspread  it,  when  she  heard  the  remark  that  his 
lordship  would  be  delighted  to  hear  that  he  had  an- 
other tenant  in  that  cottage !  I  could  not  lose  the 
image   of  the  dear  old   disciple,    with  her   cheerful 


COUNTY    DOWN.  231 

resignation  to  a  very  heavy  infliction:  I  could  not 
cease  to  think  of  her  prayerful  exclamations  of  grati- 
tude to  him  who  had  been  the   appointed   instrument 
of  conveying  to  her  this  rich  blessing:   and  1  saw  at 
once  by  what  means  Lord  Roden's  hands  are  held  up, 
in  his  sustained,  protracted  conflict   in  the   cause  of 
his  country.     It  is  the  poor  man's  prayer  that  upholds 
the  nobleman's  course  ;  it  is  the  fruitful  return  of  an 
imparted  blessing,    that    refreshes   him    on  his  way. 
Every  individual  whom  he  is  the  means  of  bringing  to 
Christ,   pleads  a  Christian's   privilege  on  his  behalf ; 
and  the  help  that   so   many  are  agreed  in  asking  for 
him  is  multiplied  from  day  to  day.     Oh,  that  all  our 
men  of  rank,  of  wealth,  of  ability,  of  influence,  knew 
how  to   avail  themselves  of  this   rate  of   exchange! 
The  true  patriot  has  now  a  most  difficult  part  to  per- 
form, in  his  public,  senatorial  capacity,  and  often  when 
he  takes  his  arduous  post  in  the  heated  atmosphere^ 
and   mingles  in   the  uncertain    debate,    the    evening 
prayer    of   some  poor  cottage   family  on  the  remote 
mountain-side,  or  deep  in  the  distant  glen,  tracing  to 
his    faithful  superintendence  the  peace,  the    comfort 
that  is  theirs,  would  rise  before  the  Lord,  an  accepta- 
ble sacrifice,  and  the  answer  be  sent  by  a  swift  mes- 
senger,  to   cheer  its  object   when,  perhaps,  no   man 
stands  by  him. 

You  have  asked  me,  Is  it  true  that  Lord  Roden, 
while  professing  to  rely  on  the  arm  of  God,  still 
"  keeps  his  powder  dry  1"  In  return  I  would  also 
inquire  of  you,  which  act  manifests  more  of  Christian 
charity,  the  punishment  of  a  crime  or  its  prevention  1 
It  is  perfectly  true  that  the  powder  is  kept  dry,  and 
that  the  injunction  to  keep  it  so  appears  on  the  stand 


232  LETTER    IX. 

of  arms  in  the  hall :  it  is  likewise  true  that  hard  by,  in 
very  large  letters,  is  the  text,  "  If  God  be  for  us,  who 
can  be  against  us  1"  and  the  two  are  just  as  reconcil- 
able as,  in  any  other  case,  is  the  use  of  means  with, 
an  entire  dependence  on  him  who  has  appointed  them. 
You  know  that,  in  this  country,  outrages  are  rarely 
committed  by  those  who  dwell  on  the  spot :  bodies  of 
men  from  a  distant  place  are  summoned,  and  employ- 
ed in  the  work  of  destruction.  If  a  hostile  attack 
were  planned  against  Tollymore  Park,  it  is  not  the 
County  Down  that  would  supply  the  murderous  gang. 
Tipperary,  or  Galway,  or  some  other  remote  district 
must  afford  them.  Is  it  not  an  act  of  positive  mercy 
to  the  wretched  perpetrators,  and  the  more  wretched 
instigators  of  such  horrors,  to  present  such  a  front  as 
shall  deter  them  from  crime  1  I  know  what  a  clamor 
has  been  raised  by  that  song,  the  burden  of  which  is 
Cromwell's  advice  to  his  troops  on  crossing  a  river. 
"  Put  your  trust  in  God,  and  mind  you  keep  your  pow- 
der dry."  Cromwell  was  a  heartless,  ruthless,  hypo- 
critical aggressor  ;  but  it  does  not  follow  that  his 
advice  abstractedly  was  wrong.  Ahitophel  gave 
excellent  counsel,  though  from  a  bad  motive,  and  for 
a  bad  purpose.  The  song  in  question*  has  nothing 
to  do  with  the  point  at  issue,  whether  a  Christian 
should  needlessly  lay  a  temptation  in  the  way  of  sin- 
ners to  dye  themselves  yet  deeper  in  guilt  by  destroy- 
ing his  body,  because  he  knows  his  soul  to  be  safe  in 
the  Lord's  keeping,  or  whether  he  should  restrain 
them  by  showing  that,  as  a  conservator  of  the  public 
peace,  and  a  magistrate  too,  he  beareth  not  the  sword 
in  vain.     You  know  that  I  can  go  as  far  as  the  Qua- 

*  See  Appendix  G- 


COUNTY  DOWN  233 

Lers  do  in  reprehending  and  denouncing  even  de^ 
fensive  warfare  ;  but  with  all  these  feelings  unchangedj 
and  desiring  rather  to  fall  beneath  the  hand  of  an 
assassin  than  to  send  his  unprepared  soul  before  the 
judgment  seat,  I  heartily  concur  in  the  propriety  of 
presenting  such  an  aspect  as  shall,  humanly  speaking, 
preserve  us  both  unharmed.  "  Except  the  Lord  keep  the 
city,  the  watchman  waketh  but  in  vain."  Most  true : 
but  it  does  not  follow  that  the  watchman  is  to  sleep  on 
his  post.  Rivers  of  blood  have  flowed  in  this  unhap- 
py country,  through  the  neglect  of  means  which  God, 
as  we  have  every  reason  to  hope,  would  have  blessed 
to  its  preservation. 

I  have  now  to  give  you  a  precious  document  which 
was  brought  to  me  from  Newry,  in  the  shape  of  a 
hand-bill.  At  first  I  vainly  thought  it  an  electidn 
squib :  but  the  gentlemen  assure  me  it  is  authen- 
tic ;  posted*  and  distributed  by  thousands  among  the 
Romanists.  This  Michael  Burke  is  the  titular  bishop 
of  the  diocese,  and,  of  Course,  holding  sway  over  the 
minds  and  consciences  of  his  miserable  followers.  Ydu 
may  now  see  how  faithfully  the  mitred  priests  of  Rome 
abstain  from  political  interference,  and  how  admirably 
they  fulfil  their  promises  which  we,  or  rather  the 
English  nation  in  general,  so  complacently  swallowed 
in  1S29  Mr.  Ellis  is  prosecuting  a  most  successful 
canvass  in  Newry  :  the  high  priest  in  question  had  a 
turbulent  assemblage  last  Sunday,  whom  he  stimulated 
by  every  possible  means  to  resist,  even  by  brute  force, 
the  return  of  the  popular  candidate.  You  will  here 
see  the  allusion  to  this  mode  of  keeping  holy  one 
Sabbath-day,  with  the  promise  of  a  similar  desecration 
on  the  next.  Here  is  the  hand-bill  just  as  it  is  before  me. 
20* 


234  LETTER    IX. 

PASTORAL  INSTRUCTION 


OF  THE  RIGHT  REV.  DR.  BLAKE,  ROMAN    CATHOLIC  BISHOP,  TO  THE 
CATHOLICS    OF  NEWRY. 


"Dearly  beloved  Christians  : 

"It  is  at  all  times  strictly  obligatory  on  a  Christian 
bishop  to  watch,  with  unwearied  solicitude,  over  the 
flock  which  the  Holy  Ghost,  with  an  especial  intima- 
tion of  the  most  awful  responsibility,  committed  to  his 
care  ;  but  most  particularly  is  he  obliged  to  do  so  in  all 
emergencies  of  extraordinary  moment,  when  duties  of 
the  utmost  importance  and  of  incalculable  magnitude 
are  to  be  performed  by  those  whom  he  is  bound  to 
instruct,  and  when  he  beholds  them  surrounded  by 
temptations  of  the  most  dangerous  nature,  artfully 
perpared  either  to  prevent  them  from  doing  what  is 
right,  or,  what  is  worse,  to  make  themselves  instru- 
ments for  the  degradation  of  their  country  and  of 
their  own  characters  in  this  world,  and  for  the  des- 
truction of  the  happiness  of  their  immortal  souls  for  all 
eternity.  And,  if  it  be  the  indispensable  duty  of 
your  bishop  to  enlighten,  to  exhort,  and  to  warn  you 
upon  such  occasions,  so  it  is  equally  your's  to  hearken 
with  docility,  and  to  regulate  your  conduct  by  the 
principles  of  sound  doctrine.  '  Obey  your  prelates? 
says  the  apostle,  (Heb.  xiii.  17.)  -and  be  subject  to 
them.  For  they  watch,  as  being  to  render  an  account  of 
your  souls,  that  they  may  do  this  with  joy  and  not  with 
grief :  for  this  is  not  expedient  for  you.'' 

"You  are  called  upon  at  present,  dearly  beloved 


COUNTY    DOWN.  235 

Christians,  to  exercise  your  right  of  voting  for  the 
appointment  of  a  member  of  parliament,  who  is  to 
stand  as  your  representative  in  the  august  senate  of 
the  British  empire,  to  make  known  your  grievances 
and  wants,  to  defend  your  interests,  to  claim  your 
rights,  to  co-operate  in  making  salutary  laws  for  the 
nation,  and  thus  to  correct  all  public  abuses,  and  to 
Tedress  whatever  is  amiss  in  the  management  of  public 
affairs.  The  right  of  voting  for  such  an  appointment 
has  been  communicated  to  you,  not  for  your  indivi- 
dual benefit,  nor  to  pay  a  compliment  to  your  private 
friend,  but  entirely  for  the  general  welfare  ;  and  should 
be  conscientiously  used,  only  for  the  good  of  the 
entire  community,  including  all  its  classes  and  sub- 
divisions. We  beseech  you,  therefore,  to  consider 
the  nature  and  importance  of  the  trust  with  which  you 
are  honored,  the  magnitude  and  wonderful  extent  of 
the  powers  which  belong  to  a  British  House  of  Com- 
mons, and  the  frightful  responsibility  which  is  attach- 
ed to  your  trusty  unless  you  fulfil  your  duty  as  you 
ought,  in  selecting  no  other  person  as  your  represen- 
tative in  that  grand  assembly,  but  one  whom  you 
perfectly  know  to  be  honest,  and  governed  by 
liberal  and  truly  philanthropic  principles  ;  whose  ob- 
ject in  offering  himself  is  to  promote  the  welfare,  not 
of  a  section  of  the  people,  but  of  the  entire  com- 
munity; who  has  already  proved  himself  not  merely 
by  professions,  but  by  a  long  series  of  facts,  and  by  the 
whole  tenor  of  his  life,  worthy  of  public  confidence  ; 
one  who  would  have  an  identity  of  interests  with  his 
constituents  ;  one,  in  short,  whose  sentiments  would  be 
in  exact  accordance  with  those  so  admirably  expressed 
in   the    speech   from   the    throne,   by    our   already 


236  LETTER    IX. 

renowned  and  glorious  Queen^  and  with  those  mea* 
sures  which  her  enlightened  ministers  have  pledged 
themselves  to  carry,  and  the  success  of  which  nothing1 
can  now  prevent,  if  those  who  have  the  right  of  voting 
will,  at  the  coming  election,  only  do  their  duty  to 
their  long-afflicted,  long-oppressed,  and  misgoverned 
country. 

"  On  this  day  week,  we  shall  have  something  morei 
to  say  on  this  most  important  subject.  In  the  mean- 
time, we  beg  you  to  turn  it  often  in  your  minds,  and 
may  the  Father  of  lights,  and  God  of  all  consolation, 
enlighten,  sustain,  and  direct  your  virtue,  that  your 
example,  on  this  trying  occasion,  may  shine  forth  as 
it  did  at  the  last  election,  that  you  may  show  your- 
selves even  still  more  worthy  of  your  country,  and  of 
your  divine  religion :  and  may  '  the  Lord  of  peace 
himself  give  you  everlasting  peace  in  every  place.  The 
Lord  be  with  you.  The  grace  of  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ 
be  with  till?     Amen. 

"t  Michael  Blake, 

"  Newry,  July  23,  1837." 

You  will  observe  that  the  date  of  this  "  pastoral"  is 
Sunday  last ;  and  that  for  Sunday  next  the  attention 
of  the  faithful  is  bespoken  for  the  farther  instructions 
in  store.  To  explain  the  force  of  Dr.  Blake's  injunc- 
tion as  to  letting  their  light  shine  forth  as  it  did  at  the 
last  election,  I  must  tell  you  how  his  "  dearly-beloved 
Christians"  then  conducted  themselves.  On  the  Sun- 
day and  for  several  days  before  and  after  it,  they  were 
collected  in  immense  parties  by  the  agents  of  the 
"liberal"  candidate  into  large  open  spaces,  where 
they  were  kept  by  the  attractions  of  music,  dancing, 


COUNTY    DOWN.  237 

whisky,  gambling,  and  sti'l  greater  outrages  than 
these  on  public  morals,  until  they  had  been  moulded 
into  every  purpose  required  ;  thence  taken  to  the 
hustings,  and  polled  against  their  interests,  their  pro- 
mises, their  consciences,  and  even  their  wishes. 
Under  the  influence  of  this  brutifying  and  exciting 
process,  they  kept  the  town  in  a  fearful  state  for  some 
time  after ;  and  bloodshed  and  the  gaol  completed 
the  work.  Some  of  the  poor  people  eluded  the  dead- 
ly snare  laid  for  them,  and  remained  within  their 
homes.  What  was  the  consequence  1  Their  right 
to  be  numbered  among  the  "  dearly-beloved  Chris- 
tians" became  suspected;  strong  parties  burst  into 
their  dwellings  in  the  dead  of  night,  and,  dragged 
from  their  beds,  they  were  forcibly  conveyed  to  dis- 
tant places,  and  there  locked  up  until  the  election  was 
over.  It  is  to  the  perpetrators  of  these  deeds  of  de- 
pravity and  outrage  that  Dr.  Blake  addresses  his  pas- 
toral, inviting  them  by  a  repetition  of  their  conduct 
at  the  last  election  to  "  show  themselves  men  even 
still  more  worthy  of  their  country  and  of  their  divine 
religion." 

But  the  point  to  which  I  mainly  wish  to  draw  your 
attention  is  the  declaration  thus  openly  made  by  an 
authority  which  they  deem  infallible,  that  the  Roman- 
ists of  Newry  will  not  only  ensure  "the  degradation 
of  their  characters  in  this  world  ;"  that  is,  utter  tem- 
pi ral  ruin,  and  the  imminent  peril  of  their  lives  ;  but 
also  incur  "  the  destruction  of  the  happiness  of  their 
immortal  souls  for  all  eternity,"  if  they  do  not  sup- 
port Mr.  Brady,  the  staunch  advocate  of  repeal.  In 
England  you  cannot  conceive  the  tremendous  force 
of  such  expressions  from  such  a  quarter.     Dr.  Blake 


238  LETTER    IX.  • 

has  only  to  speak  a  word  privately,  and  from  their 
respective  altars  each  priest  will  denounce  the  indi- 
viduals in  his  congregation  who  have  disobeyed  the 
mandate,  and  sinned  against  their  country  and  their 
own  souls,  by  daring  to  act  independently  at  the  polh 
They  will  then  become  the  victims  of  an  unceasing 
persecution  :  if  in  trade,  none  will  thenceforth  dea 
with  them  :  if  in  the  laboring  class,  none  will  employ 
them.  Should  the  Protestants  befriend  them  in  these 
particulars,  interposing  between  their  families  and 
starvation,  their  persons  will  be  insulted,  their  dwell- 
ings attacked,  and  their  lives  menaced  on  all  sides ; 
while  the  terrors  of  everlasting  perdition  will  be  kept 
before  their  eyes,  by  the  stern  denial  of  those  rites 
on  which  the  poor  deceived  creatures  verily  believe 
that  their  salvation  depends. 

Now,  consider  in  what  way  this  plan  is  likely  to 
operate  throughout  Ireland.  The  franchise  is  so  ex- 
tended that  the  great  bulk  of  voters,  in  three  provin- 
ces, consists  of  those  whom  the  priests  can  drive  like 
a  herd  of  cattle,  by  means  of  such  arguments,  pri- 
vately administered,  as  Dr.  Blake,  with  more  zeal  than 
judgment,  has  openly  promulgated.  Mr.  Brady  is  a 
fair  specimen  of  the  men  patronized  by  the  priests- 
hood :  a  legitimate  joint  of  what  is  expressively 
termed  "the  Tail,"  pledged  to  follow  O'Connell,  and 
to  move  but  in  accordance  with  his  volition.  The 
destruction  of  the  Protestant  church  and  dismember- 
ment of  the  empire,  is  what  these  men  openly,  avow- 
edly aim  at :  their  numbers  must  increase  with  the 
increasing  boldness,  decision,  and  activity  of  the  Ro* 
niish  priesthood,  whose  delegates  they  are  :  that  num- 
ber in  the  Commons  House  is  even  now  able,  as  a 


COUNTY   DOWN.  239 

floating  majority,  to  decide  any  question  brought  for- 
ward, where  the  regular  parties  that  compose  the 
British  representation  are  divided  :  and  thus  are  we 
already  prostrated  beneath  the  paw  of  the  Apocalyp- 
tic Beast,  who  having  imposed  on  our  wise  legislators 
by  exhibiting  his  lamb's  face,  was,  on  the  strength  of 
it,  courteously  admitted  among  them  ;  and  now  with 
his  dragon's  voice  prevails  to  lead  captive  the  British 
government,  and  to  trample  upon  the  British  consti- 
tution. 


CHAPTER    X. 


COUNTY   ARMAGH. 

Tandragee  Castle. 

I  shall  not  attempt  to  tell  you  with  what  feelings  I 
quitted  Tollymore  Park.  The  morning  was  very 
cloudy,  and  made  even  the  chapel  look  dark  :  but 
there  was  light  within.  I  think  Lord  Roden's  exposi- 
tion of  the  eighteenth  Psalm  will  be  one  of  the  last 
things  that  I  shall  forget,  if  that  can  be  forgotten 
which  belongs  not  to  the  things  of  time.  No  man 
living  is  surrounded  with  richer  blessings  than  Lord 
Roden  :  it  is  enough  to  say  that  what  God  in  nature 
has  done  to  beautify  the  spot  where  he  dwells,  that 
God  by  grace  has  surpassed  in  the  beloved  circle  who 
inhabit  it :  the  outward  being  but  a  type  of  the  inward 
gifts.  All  this  he  sees,  feels,  and  devoutly  acknow- 
ledges :  yet  Lord  Roden  bears  as  heavy  a  cross  as  any 
man  I  know.  Patriotism  of  the  highest  and  purest 
kind  is  his  ruling  passion  :  and  who  that  loves  poor 
Ireland  but  must  go  mourning  for  her  every  dayl 
Who  that  desires  to  see  his  Lord  and  Saviour  glorified 
among  his  own  people,  his  brethren  after  the  flesh, 
but  must  take  up  Paul's  keen  complaint  of  continual 
sorrow  and  heaviness  at  his  heart  1     Lord  Roden  is 


COUNTY   ARB1AGH.  241 

not  one  of  those  deceived  good  men  who  think  it  in- 
consistent to  view  politics  and  religion  in  that  con- 
nection wherein  I  really  think  the  Holy  Bible  presents 
them  to  us:  he  does  not  wrap  himself  up  in  spiritual 
abstraction,  caring  nothing  for  them  that  are  without ; 
or,  with  a  refined  sort  of  fatalism,  consoling  himself 
with  the  idea  that  since  what  must  be,  must  be,  he 
may  look  on  and  say  amen  to  all  the  doings  of  Satan, 
secure  that  God  will  bruise  him  under  our  feet  shortly. 
No — the  heavenward  language  of  his  soul  is,  "Ami 
not  grieved  with  them  that  rise  up  against  thee  V 
and  this  grief  throws  him  in  an  especial  manner  on 
the  promises  of  God  in  the  Gospel  of  his  Son.  My 
heart  is  too  sore  to  write  much  of  Tollymore  since 
I  have  left  it.  May  the  dove  of  peace  ever  find  her 
tranquil  nest  among  its  beautiful  bowers!  As  the 
mountains  are  round  about  it,  so  may  the  Lord  be 
round  about  his  dear  people  there !  As  the  shining 
ocean  spreads  before  it,  so  may  a  bright  eternity  of 
blessedness  ever  form  their  prospect !  And  for  the 
kindness  shown  to  me,  and  many  another  humble 
guest,  received  in  the  name  of  a  disciple,  may  the 
promised  recompense  be  returned  a  thousand  fold 
into  their  generous,  affectionate,  and  hospitable  bo- 
soms ! 

Preferring  the  car  to  all  conveyances,  I  accepted 
that  at  the  hands  of  my  noble  entertainers  as  far  as 
Kate's  Bridge,  where  Lord  Mandeville's  car  was  to 
meet  us.  His  lordship  and  family  are  abroad  ;  but  a 
very  cordial  invitation  from  my  old  friend  Mr.  Porter, 
in  whose  hands  everything  is  left,  was  too  tempting 
to  be  declined ;  particularly  as  Lady  Roden  had,  just 
before  it  came,  been  expressing  her  anxious  wish  that 
21 


242  LETTER  X. 

I  could  see  "  that  beautifully  managed  estate."  I 
knew  that  the  plan  adopted  here  was  modelled  on  that 
by  which  Lord  Farnham's  property  became  so  con- 
spicuously superior  to  the  generality  of  Irish  estates  ; 
Mr.  Porter  having  enjoyed  the  office  of  his  lordship's 
private  secretary  at  Farnham,  before  he  came  to  Tan- 
dragee.  I  therefore  determined  to  take  this  place  on 
my  way  to  Donegal,  making  my  desire  for  information 
subservient  to  the  pleasure  of  seeing  a  valuable  and 
valued  friend,  after  many  years'  absence.  The  first 
two  or  three  miles  of  our  journey  were  through  what 
is  still  a  terra  incognita  to  me  ;  for  instead  of  remark- 
ing the  peculiarities  of  the  road,  I  kept  an  immovable 
gaze  turned  in  the  direction  of  the  Mourne  Mountains, 
soon  totally  hidden  by  the  intervention  of  very  infe- 
rior but  much  nearer  heights.  In  a  short  time  the 
rain  began  to  descend  heavily ;  and  before  reaching 
Kate's  Bridge,  where  we  stopped  at  the  respectable 
house  of  a  staunch  northern  Presbyterian,  whose  little 
general  shop  supplied  the  neighborhood,  I  was  more 
completely  soaked  than  I  remember  to  have  been  for 
years.  A  huge  turf  fire,  in  the  back  kitchen,  where  a 
grand  wash  was  going  on,  afforded  a  partial  drying ; 
and  then  we  mounted  Lord  Mandeville's  car,  driven 
by  the  smartest  little  fellow  imaginable,  and  rattled 
on  under  such  a  driving  deluge  of  rain  that  I  was 
obliged  to  shut  out  it  and  the  scenery  together,  by 
holding  an  umbrella  before  my  face.  All  I  know  of 
the  country  is,  that  potatoes  and  orange  lilies 
appeared  the  staple  commodities,  with  an  increase  of 
corn-fields  as  we  approached  our  destination  j  indeed, 
the  landscape  became  exceedingly  rich,  after  leaving 
the  mountain  track. 


COUNTY    ARMAGH.  24-3 

Tandragee  possesses  a  feature  peculiar  to  itself, 
and  very  picturesque.  The  town  consists  of  one  very 
long  and  exceedingly  broad  street,  the  ascent  of  which 
is  formidable.  At  the  top  stands  the  castle  ;  a  large, 
dark,  ponderous-looking  gate  facing  you,  with  rather 
a  frowning  aspect,  overhung  by  trees  of  immense 
growth  ;  and  among  them  the  church  steeple  looks 
out,  from  the  besom  of  the  enclosure.  The  gates 
passed,  you  proceed  by  a  short  drive  into  a  quadran- 
gle, the  four  sides  of  which  are  formed  by  the  castel- 
lated building,  which  is  singularly  antique  in  appear- 
ance, though,  in  fact,  rebuilt  within  the  last  few  years. 
The  inner  gates  are  fortified,  after  the  old  fashion  of 
defensive  warfare  ;  the  material  is  grey  stone,  and  the 
tout  ensemble  very  feudal.  The  square,  deep-set  win- 
dows, with  much  frame-work  and  little  glass,  and  the 
whole  contour  of  the  building  that  completely  sur- 
rounded us,  the  paved  court-yard  without  the  least 
mixture  of  vegetation,  and  the  gallery  by  which  we 
had  to  enter — all  formed  a  strange  contrast  to  the 
lightsomeness  of  sweet  Tollymore;  and  not  being  in 
the  mood  to  fancy  anything  unlike  that  favored  spot 
I  did  not,  at  first,  do  justice  to  the  Castle.  A  most 
cordially  Irish  reception,  however,  from  my  old  friend, 
with  the  unexpected  pleasure  of  meeting  the  Dean  of 
Tuam  at  the  door,  prepared  me  to  enjoy  with  high  zest 
the  treat  which  was  in  store  j  for,  passing  through  the 
library,  we  were  led  into  one  of  the  finest  conserva- 
tories possible,  with  gigantic  fuchsias  and  other  mag- 
nificent plants  rising  tG  the  very  lofty  glass  dome ; 
and  in  the  centre,  upon  a  high  table,  stood  what  they 
were  pleased  to  call  my  garland — a  beautiful  fabric, 
four  feet  high,  and  of  proportionate  dimensions,  formed 


244  LETTER    X. 

entirely  of  flowers.  Each  column  is  the  thickness 
of  your  arm — a  plump  onej  and  you  never  could  be- 
lieve so  elegant  and  superb  a  thing  to  be  the  contri- 
vance as  well  as  the  execution  of  a  poor  gardener. 
Yet  so  it  is  :  the  gardener  and  his  men,  unasked,  pro- 
duced this  lovely  piece  of  architecture  to  express  the 
value  that  they  entertained  for  certain  pennyworths 
of  knowledge,  circulated  in  the  shape  of  little  books, 
through  the  lending  libraries  of  Tandraeree.     It  must, 

DO  O  7 

however,  be  confessed  that  the  orange  lily  was  un- 
sparingly displayed,  with  a  liberal  admixture  of  purple 
tints,  and  the  Sweet  Wil/iam,  a  naughty  political 
flower  much  cultivated  in  the  "  black  north,"  and 
which  ought  to  be  put  hors  de  combat  the  next  time  a 
military  investment  takes  place.  My  well^soaked  dra- 
pery had  time  to  dry  upon  me  before  I  had  sufficiently 
admired  my  garland  ;  and  then  our  friend  took  us  on 
the  lawn,  in  front  of  the  castle,  the  situation  of  which 
is  more  splendid  than  I  suspected.  It  stands  on  the 
very  edge  of  a  descent  so  steep,  that  the  tops  of  the 
highest  trees,  growing  below,  are  very  far  beneath 
your  feet  when  standing  on  it.  Had  not  the  rain  pre- 
vented, we  should  have  enjoyed  a  sight  of  the  castle 
to  great  advantage  from  the  road,  it  is  perched  on 
such  a  commanding  eminence.  From  it  the  prospect 
is  beautiful.  A  lofty  turret,  very  hard  to  ascend,  by 
a  ladder  placed  perpendicularly,  and  fastened  to  the 
wall  inside,  commands  a  magnificent  look-out,  em- 
bracing Lough  Neagh,  and  a  circuit  of  almost  bound- 
less extent.  But  what  pleased  me  beyond  all  the  rest, 
was  a  distinct  view  not  only  of  Slieve  Donard,  but  of 
Tollymore  Park,  the  house  alone  being  concealed  by 
the  line  of  an  intersecting  mountain.     The  distance  is 


County  Armagh.  245 

full  twenty  English  miies,  so  you  may  judge  how  ele- 
vated must  be  the  one,  and  how  conspicuous  the  other 
spot  j  for  we  used  no  glass. 

I  shall  now  give  yOu  a  sketch  of  the  plan  by  which 
Lord  Mandeville's  property  is  managed  ;  and  in    so 
doing,  I  hope  to  embrace  the  main  points  of  that  great 
question,  How  can  Ireland   be  rendered  prosperous, 
and  her  people  tranquil  and  happy  1     To  afford  a  clear 
insight    into    the   improved   plan,  I  will  sketch   that 
which  generally  prevails  on  large  estates.     The  land- 
lord appoints  an  agent,  to  whom  he  pays  a  percent- 
age on  the  rents  which  it  is  his  business  to  collect, 
as  well  as   to  regulate   the    division  and  distribution 
of  farms,  and  in  all  respects  to  act  as  a  medium  of 
communication  between   the   tenants  and  their  land- 
lord.    The  agent's  duties  on   an  extensive   property 
are  so  various  and  so  difficult,  that  much  of  the  prac- 
tical detail  must  be  left  to   others,  the  under-agents^ 
persons  much  inferior  to  the  agent ;  arid   drivers,  on 
whom  the  actual  Collection  of  rents  virtually  devolves, 
for  thejr  are  sent  out  at  regular  periods  to  urge   the" 
payment,  and  receive  from  the   tenants  a  fee  on   each 
visit.     They  are  empowered  to  drive  the  cattle  of  de- 
faulters to  the  pound,  whereby  the  distressed  tenantry 
are  subjected  to  heavy  expenses  in  fees  to  the  pound- 
keeper,  besides  an  additional  demand  from  the  driver. 
It  is  a  common  observation  among  those  who  have 
experience  in  the  collection  of  any   description  of 
dues  from   the  lower  classes,  that  in  proportion    as 
compulsory   means   are    resorted  to,  voluntary  pay- 
ments diminish.     The  system  is  a  demoralizing  one  ; 
the  feelings  of  the  peasantry  being  blunted  by  the  fre- 
quent demands  and  rude  threats  of  these  subordinates, 
21* 


246  LETTER   X. 

armed  as  they  are  with  summary  powers,  become 
hardened  by  repeated  exposure ;  and  those  who  pos- 
sess the  means  of  making  up  their  rents,  or  discharg- 
ing their  arrears,  are  often  induced  to  withhold  pay- 
ment, because  it  is  not  the  general  practice  to  pay  on 
the  first  application.  The  result  of  this  plan  is  harass- 
ing to  all  parties,  prejudicial  to  the  tenant,  and 
inconsistent  with  the  duties  of  a  conscientious  land- 
lord. I  believe  Lord  Farnham  was  the  first  who  ven- 
tured upon  a  total  change  of  system,  abolishing  alto- 
gether that  which  I  have  described,  and  substituting 
in  its  place  a  mode  of  moral  management,  which  super- 
seding the  ruder  methods  of  compulsion,  might  at 
once  promote  the  prosperity  and  happiness  of  his 
tenantry,  and  secure  to  himself  a  due  and  punctual 
return  of  the  proceeds  of  his  property.  What  do  you 
suppose  was  the  result,  when  he  fairly  reduced  to 
practice  a  scheme  that  most  people  considered  as 
beautiful,  but  visionary  1  Why,  at  the  end  of  seven 
years,  on  an  estate  of  upwards  of  twenty-five  thou- 
sand acres,  the  arrears  of  rent  did  not  exceed  one 
hundred  pounds. 

The  base  which  Lord  Farnham  took,  whereon  to 
erect  his  moral  edifice,  and  the  rule  by  which  he 
fashioned  the  work,  were  the  Holy  Bible.  Every  part 
of  his  plan  had  reference  to  it ;  and  of  course  educa- 
tion was  primarily  alluded  to.  Twelve  school-houses 
were  built  in  different  parts  of  his  estate,  where  the 
children  of  his  tenantry,  without  any  regard  to  reli- 
gious distinction,  all  received  scriptural  education  j 
and  this  has  been  successfully  persevered  in  for  four- 
teen years.  He  did  away  with  the  drivers,  and  in 
their  stead  appointed  five  inspectors  of  districts,  who 


COUNTY    ARMAGH.  24<7 

were  forbidden  to  receive  fees  from  the  tenants,  and 
could   therefore   have   no   personal  interest  in  either 
pressing  or  relaxing;  neither  had  they  power  to  en- 
force payment  by  distraining  or  distressing  the  poor 
people  :  they  were  selected,  as  being  each  by  constant 
residence  and  intercourse    best   acquainted   with  the 
families  and  feelings,  the  wants  and  circumstances  of 
the  tenantry  in  his  respective  district.     The  law  of 
kindness    was  that  by  which  they  were  enjoined  to 
regulate  their  proceedings  ;  their  duties  wTere  executed 
with   mildness  \  and  thus  armed   with  no  terror,  but 
possessed  of  the  high  moral  influence  that  such  bonds 
of  connection  and  such  a  mutual  good  understanding 
could  not  fail  to  invest  them  with  in  the  sight  of  the 
people,  they  acquired  an  ascendency  never  enjoyed  by 
the  most  arbitrary  and  despotic  manager  under  the  old 
system.     The  rules  privately  printed  for  the  guidance 
of  these  inspectors  are  beautiful ;  the  link  which  they 
form  between  the  landlord,  or  his  agent,  and  the  hum- 
blest of  the  laboring  classes,  are,  in  my  mind,  the  pre- 
cise desideratum,  for  the  absence  of  which  both  have  so 
long  and  so  dearly  paid.     They  are  placed  under  the 
immediate  direction  of  the  moral  agent,  to  whom  their 
reports  are  regularly  made,  but  with  orders  to  obey  also 
the  land  agent,  and  to  render  him  every  assistance  that 
he  may  require. 

This  is  a  very  brief  outline  of  Lord  Farnham's  ad- 
mirable plan,  and  fully  convinced  by  his  own  observa- 
tion of  its  practical  excellence,  thoroughly  versed  m 
all  its  details,  my  friend  Mr.  Porter  obeyed  the  sum- 
mons of  Lord  Mandeville,  to  assume  on  his  very  large 
estate  the  office  of  moral  agent,  and  to  introduce  the 
improved  system,  to  the  total  exclusion  of  all  others. 


j&48  LETTER   X. 

You  must  know  that  in  this  part  of  the  country,  land 
is  at  such  a  premium,  that  if  a  farm  of  five  or  ten 
acres  is  to  be  disposed  of,  a  ready  purchaser  is  to  oe 
found  who  will  give  fifty  or  a  hundred  pounds  for  the 
good-will,  as  it  is  called,  of  the  tenant  in  possession, 
being  at  the  rate  of  £\Q  an  acre,  the  yearly  rerft 
averaging  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  shillings  per 
acre,  and  this  land,  perhaps,  out  of  lease  at  the  time. 
The  feeling  of  security  against  dispossession,  added 
to  the  anxiety  which  I  noticed  in  a  former  letter  to 
become  the  holder  of  land,  induces  this ;  but  many 
evils  result  from  the  competition.  The  man  who  freely 
offers  fifty  pounds,  does  not  perhaps  possess  twenty; 
he  runs  in  debt  for  the  balance,  probably  at  high  usury,* 
and  all  to  enter  upon  a  farm  requiring  great  improve- 
ments, Which  he  has  no  capital  to  expend  on.  Besides, 
fees  are,  in  such  cases,  frequently  paid  on  the  mere 
promise  of  the  agent,  and  invariably  demanded  by  him 
on  each  lease  actually  granted.  This  furnishes  a 
strong  temptation  to  subdivide  the  land  most  injurious- 
ly; and  one  of  the  many  evils  brought  on  themselves 
by  the  anxious  bidders,-  Was  that  of  being  put  into  pos- 
session of  an  acre  or  acre  and  a  half,  on  the  mere  pro- 
mise of  paying  the  agent's  fees ;  and  then  when  they 
first  appeared  with  a  half  year's  rent,  the  sum  was 
taken  and  placed  to  the  credit  of  the  aforesaid  fees ; 
tvhile  a  heavy  arrear  of  rent  was  allowed  to  accumu- 
late on  the  head  of  the  perplexed  and  helpless  occu- 
pier. Such  was  the  state  of  affairs  here,  and  you  may 
perceive  in  it  a  striking  confirmation  of  what  I  told 
you  when  writing  from  Wexford.  Lord  Mandeville, 
however,  appointed  a  land  agent,  who  was  alike  com- 
petent and  disposed  to  carry  out  every  plan  of  judi- 


COUNTY    ARMAGH.  249 

cious  improvement,  and  who  is  a  most  valuable  helper 
in  the  good  work  now  prospering.  On  placing  this 
gentleman  over  the  tenantry,  Lord  Mandeville  also  ad- 
dressed them  in  a  circular,  which  set  forth,  first, 
his  anxious  desire  to  fulfil  his  responsibilities  in  a 
manner  that  should  conduce  to  their  mutual  benefit 
and  happiness,  being  convinced  that  the  real  interest  of 
landlord  and  tenant  could  not  be  separated  ;  and  that 
making  the  discharge  of  their  relative  duties  accord- 
ing to  the  will  of  God  their  object,  he  trusted  they 
might  all  seek  and  receive  God's  blessing  on  their  en- 
deavors.  Mark,  my  friend,  these  truly  wise  men  do 
not  build  on  the  sand  ;  openly  acknowledging  the  Lord 
in  all  their  ways,  how  can  they  but  find  him  directing 
their  paths  %  Lord  Mandeville's  circular  goes  on  to 
abolish  the  usual  fees,  to  establish  inspectors,  to  pro 
hibit  high  rents  for  the  prevention  of  any  just  excuse 
for  arrears,  to  forbid  the  subdivision  of  farms,  to  do 
away  with  fees  or  leases ;  refusing  also  to  give  leases 
on  lives,  and  substituting  for  that  uncertain  calculation 
a  definite  term  of  years  ;  to  guard  against  the  mischief 
and  injustice  of  the  cottier  system,  and  the  oppression 
too  often  practised  on  the  lower  classes  of  tenants  at 
will  ;  to  promise  a  nursery  of  fruit  trees  for  the  benefit 
of  such  tenants  as  may  enclose  orchards,  and  exhibit 
neatness  and  industry  in  their  farms;  to  arrange  the 
schools  under  the  superintendence  of  Mr.  Porter,  who 
has  also  the  care  of  a  lending  library  in  each  school,  of 
which  all  his  tenants  may  enjoy  the  advantage,  on  ap- 
plication to  the  schoolmaster  ;  to  announce  the  regu- 
lations under  which  persons  inconvenienced  by  loss  or 
sickness  may  receive  aid  from  the  loan  fund,  instead 
of  borrowing    money   at   an    exc  bitant  interest ;  to 


250  LETTEB    X. 

assure  them  that  medical  advice  arid  medicine  have 
been  provided  in  a  way  that  will  secure  proper  attend- 
ance on  the  sick  poor  throughout  all  the  estate.  Lastly, 
to  direct  how  communications  are  to  be  made  to  his 
lordship,  who  sets  apart  a  day  in  each  month  for 
the  purpose  of  replying  to  them  ;  and  so  he  concludes 
with  a  desire  that  these  endeavors  and  regulations 
may  be  blessed  with  mutual  advantage.  It  makes  my 
heart  glow  with  joy  to  see  the  name  of  an  English 
nobleman,  the  heir  to  an  English  Dukedom,  appended 
to  this  valuable  document. 

I  now  proceed  to  tell  you  what  I  have  learned  from 
Mr.  Porter  of  his  doings,  as  moral  agent  here,  and  of 
the  results  that  he  has  witnessed.  His  first  anxiety 
was  to  make  the  schools  more  efficient  than,  under  the 
general  class  of  teachers  which  he  found,  they  could 
become  ;  Lord  and  Lady  Mandeville  kindly  seconding 
his  wishes  by  a  liberal  advance  of  salary  to  these  im- 
portant functionaries,  he  was  able  by  degrees  to  bring 
about  a  change,  alike  advantagous  to  the  children,  and 
satisfactory  to  their  employers  5  and  he  says  he  can 
challenge  any  district  in  Ireland,  to  show  him  on  one 
property  thirty  teachers  to  surpass  them  in  respecta- 
bility and  efficiency.  A  great  reform  was  at  the  same 
time  introduced  among  the  girls  in  the  branch  of 
needlework.  Mr.  Porter  justly  observes,  that  teach- 
ing children  in  their  rank  embroidery,  is  calculated  to 
give  them  a  taste  for  dress,  unsuited  to  their  circum- 
stances ;  he  was  vexed  to  see  girls  able  to  work  a  fine 
collar,  cap,  or  gown,  who  could  not  make  a  commos 
article  of  apparel  for  their  brothers  or  themselves. 
Accordingly  he  commenced  by  setting-  all  the  girls  ts 
work  oti  some  strong  coarse  shirts,  suited  to  the  wants 


COUNTY  AKMAGH.  251 

of  the  laboring  classes ;  and  the  increasing  demand 
for  these  and  for  school-knit  stockings,  led  to  a  more 
extensive  manufacture  than  had  been  dreamed  of:  bu$ 
this  I  must  reserve  until  I  come  to  describe  the 
clothing  store.  The  number  of  schools  augmented 
rapidly :  for  one  Infant  School  there  are  now  five 
flourishing  on  the  estate ;  and  the  others  in  propor- 
tion. Twenty-two  school-rooms  are  now  regularly 
attended  by  two  thousand  three  hundred  and  thirty- 
four  children  da/ly ;  in  addition  to  whom  there  are  six 
hundred  and  sixty-seven  constant  in  attending  the 
Sunday  Schools,  making  a  total  of  three  thousand  and 
one  under  scriptural  instruction  on  Lord  Mandeville*s 
property.  Does  not  this  gladden  your  heart  to  read, 
as  it  does  mine  to  write  it  % 

But  the  great  practical  evil  against  which  these  no- 
ble reformers,  Lord  Mandeville  and  his  two  agents, 
had  to  fight,  was  the  sale  of  unlicensed  whisky.  I 
must  give  you,  as  nearly  as  possible  in  the  very  words 
of  my  friend,  the  amusing  history  of  this  part  of  the 
campaign.  The  Shebeen  houses,  as  they  are  called, 
are  to  be  found  in  every  neighborhood  5  and  though  no 
outward  sign  denotes  the  business  carried  on  within, 
everybody  knows  that  the  occupier  "  keeps  a  bottle." 
"  I  required,"  said  Mr.  Porter,  "  through  the  inspectpr, 
a  return  of  all  such  persons  on  the  estate,  and  by 
means  of  friendly  warning  and  advice,  succeeded  in 
many  cases  in  stopping  the  practice.  Some,  however, 
notwithstanding  their  fair  promises,  continued  to  sup- 
ply '  a  little  drop'  to  any  who  called  in  ;  but  even  this 
could  not  escape  the  vigilance  which  the  system  of 
inspection  ensures,  and  due  '  notice  to  quit'  was  served 
on  the  offenders.    Six  months  passed  over  5  the  day 


252  LETTER    X. 

arrived  for  taking  possession,  and  instructions  were 
given  to  dispossess  a  woman  of  doubtful  character, 
living  about  a  mile  from  this  town,  who  still  persever- 
ed in  the  sale  of  ardent  spirits  without  a  license.  Her 
furniture  was  removed,  the  door  locked,  and  she  was 
turned  adrift.  On  that  night  an  armed  party  came  to 
the  house  of  a  widow  adjoining  the  premises,  and  as 
this  widow  was  supposed  to  have  informed  against  the 
culprit  through  a  covetous  desire  to  obtain  her  garden, 
the  most  tremendous  threats  were  held  out  towards, 
not  only  herself  and  family,  but  also  towards  Lord 
Mandeville,  Hunt,  Porter,  and  company,  if  the  woman 
was  not  forthwith  replaced  in  full  possession  of  her 
house  and  premises. 

"  In  this  quarter  of  Ireland^  the  lawless  party  call 
themselves  *  Tommy  Downshire's  men,'  and  another 
visit  from  them  was  promised  if  their  demands  were 
mot  presently  complied  with.  This  was  a  case  of 
emergency  ;  now  was  the  time  of  trial,  whether  Lord 
Mandeville  was  to  possess  his  rights,  and  to  wield  the 
power  which  he  held  in  support  of  the  laws  and  of  mo- 
rality, or  make  up  his  mind  to  retreat  before  Tommy 
Downshire  whenever  he  chose  to  appear.  I  held  a 
consultation  with  my  excellent  fellow-laborer,  Mr. 
Hunt  the  agent,  and  we  agreed  to  write  to  his  Lord- 
ship for  permission  to  level  the  house  with  the  ground,. 
Lord  Mandeville's  parliamentary  duties  at  that  time 
detaining  him  in  London,  we  could  not  immediately 
ascertain  his  mind  on  the  subject;  and  Tommy  Down- 
shire's men,  thinking  us  too  tardy  in  obeying  their  or- 
ders, paid  a  second  visit  to  the  poor  innocent  widow, 
who  really  had  no  more  to  do  in  the  business  than  you 
bad,  breaking  into  her  house  at  night,  and  smashing 


COUNTY   ARMAGH.  253 

to  pieces  her  dresser  with  its  plentiful  store  of  delf, 
and  otner  things.  They  demolished  every  window  in 
the  cottage,  and  departed  with  the  assurance  that  the 
lives  of  the  inmates  would  be  the  next  sacrifice.  Just 
as  the  report  of  this  outrage  was  delivered  to  Mr. 
Hunt  and  myself  the  next  morning,  came  also  a  letter 
from  Lord  Mandeville,  giving  us  full  permission  to 
level  the  house.  This  was  most  opportune  :  we  sum- 
moned all  the  workmen  under  the  steward,  repaired  to 
the  spot,  and  in  twelve  hours  after  the  visit  of  the 
armed  party$  there  was  not  a  vestige  of  the  Shebeen 
house  remaining." 

"And  what  followed]" 

"  Oh !  the  effect  was  immense  5  these  determined 
proceedings  showed  the  country  that  we  were  not  to 
be  intimidated,  but  had  resolved  with  at  least  as  much 
spirit  and  courage  as  they  cOuld  boast  of,  to  restrain 
vice  by  all  the  lawful  means  in  our  power.  The  ene* 
my  never  again  appeared,  and  we  heard  no  more  of 
the  matter:  but  I  think  we  had  within  a  very  short 
period  to  rejoice  in  the  suppression  of  about  twenty 
such  establishments  5  while  many  of  the  women  who 
used  to  put  '  the  bottle' to  their  neighbors'  mouths, 
are  now  amongst  the  most  regular  customers  at  the 
clothing  store,  respectable  in  conduct,  and  comforta- 
ble in  their  circumstances." 

"  Does  not  a  great  deal  of  the  mischief  perpetrated 
in  Ireland,  originate  in  meetings  at  these  Shebeen 
houses  1" 

"Nearly   all    of  it,"  my  friend  replied.     "Many  a 
respectable  female   dates  her  ruin  and   disgrace  from 
them  ;   and    here    political   offences   are  plotted  and 
ripened  for  execution;     The  profit  netted  by  the  own 
22 


254-  LETTER  X. 

ers  of  such  unlicensed  places  is  very  great ;  I  have 
known  frequent  instances,  especially  in  Meath,  and  on 
the  borders  of  Cavan,  where  a  man  having  made  his 
corn  into  whisky,  appoints  a  night,  and  issues  regular 
cards  of  invitation,  to  this  effect — '  A  ball  will  take 
pluce  at    Pat  Lavery's  on  Sunday  evening,  the  —  day 

of .'     This  is  a  signal  for  a  gathering  of  all  ages  ; 

lads,  lasses,  and  old  folks  who  come  to  get  a  sup  of  the 
'  drink.'  The  lads  treat  the  maidens,  nothing  being 
provided  by  the  person  giving  the  ball  but  music  and 
lights  ;  the  liquor  is  paid  for  ;  the  night  is  spent  in  ca- 
rousing and  all  manner  of  revelry  ;  and  next  morning, 
Pat  Lavery  has  realized  a  sum  to  pay  his  rent,  satisfy 
his  priest,  and  do  many  other  things  beside." 

Do  you  not  agree  with  me  that  the  razing  of  the 
Shebeen  house  was  both  a  gallant  and  a  most  philan- 
thropic exploit  1  In  their  hearts  these  people  love  a 
resolute  man  whom  they  cannot  frighten ;  and  this 
admixture  of  unshaken  firmness  with  benevolence  and 
sympathy,  is  the  secret  that  so  few  can  discover  in  all 
their  attempts  to  find  a  method  of  governing  the  Irish. 
It  is  by  these  means  that  such  an  improvement  has  been 
wrought  in  the  circumstances  of  the  tenantry  on  this 
and  on  Lord  Roden's  estate,  who,  with  all  his  overflow- 
ing tenderness  of  feeling,  is  as  firm  as  the  base  of  Slieve 
Donard  in  all  that  relates  to  moral  restraint.  You 
know,  he  banished  the  system  by  allowing  the  large 
fine  for  an  illegal  still  to  be  levied  on  the  district,  re- 
fusing either  to  intercede  for,  or  to  assist  the  people, 
who  were  all  cognizant  of  the  offence,  and  declined  to 
give  information  after  his  fair  warning.  It  requires  a 
strong  share  of  moral  and  personal  courage  to  act 
thus  $  but  where  those  in  authority  rightly  use  it  for 


COUNTY   ARMAGH.  255 

the  punishment  of  evil  doers,  they  always  find  them- 
selves upheld  by  Him  whose  delegated  ministers  they 
are.  The  kindness  afforded  by  medicine,  medical  ad- 
vice gratuitously  supplied,  loans  of  seeds,  looms, 
wheels,  clothing,  and  money,  produce  a  powerful 
effect  on  the  minds  of  the  peasantry  ;  but  these  are 
all  withheld,  and  every  token  of  favor  withdrawn,  if 
they  neglect  the  orders  to  whitewash  their  houses,  and 
to  remove  the  heaps  of  litter  and  manure  from  before 
them — those  unsightly  and  unhealthy  appendages  to 
the  poor  man's  cabin,  without  the  aid  of  which  he 
could  not  cultivate  the  little  patch  of  potatoes;  but 
which  it  often  requires  something  more  powerful  than 
argument  to  induce  him  to  place  anywhere  but  just 
at  the  entrance  of  his  abode.  The  only  benefit  that 
the  contumacious  tenant  never  forfeits  is  the  educa- 
tion of  his  children.  That  blessing  is  conferred  on 
all,  irrespective  of  merit  or  demerit ;  the  excellent 
landlords  considering  that  the  more  degraded  the  pa- 
rents and  their  dwellings  may  be,  the  greater  is  the 
need  for  training  up  the  poor  children  in  better  ways; 
and  for  striving  to  approach  the  incorrigible  people  by 
means  of  their  well-taught  little  ones. 

I  hope  you  are  not  yet  tired  of  Tandragee ;  for  I 
have  much  to  say.  My  stay  is  so  limited — not  quite 
three  days — and  the  weather  so  hostile  to  out-door 
investigations,  that  I  am  glad  to  sit  even  at  this  sea- 
son, over  a  good  turf-fire,  and  glean  information  from 
one  so  admirably  qualified  to  bestow  it.  The  cloth- 
ing store  is  a  curious  apartment,  and  it  is  quite  amus- 
ing to  see  a  gentleman  so  au-fait  in  all  that  concerns 
the  details  of  a  country  shop,  and  the  economy  both, 
of  male   and   female  attire.     The  plan    of   banishing 


256  LETTER  X. 

useless  embroidery  from  the  g-irls'  schools  led  to  this 
capital  institution  ;  and  here,  in  a  room  under  the  roof 
of  the  castle,  you  may  see  as  regular  an  outfit  of  cot? 
tage  habiliments,  and  such  furniture  as  the  loom  or 
needle  may  supply,  as  the  best  in  London  could  boast. 
Every  Wednesday  the  Poor-Shop  is  opened,  and  the 
customers  press  in  from  all  quarters,  none  being  ad- 
mitted but  the  tenants,  cotters,  and  day-laborers  of  the 
Tandra^ee  estate.  The  former  pay  the  fourth  part  of 
their  bill  for  clothing  quarterly  ;  the  latter,  when  the 
steward  hands  them  their  weekly  wages,  leave  two 
shillings  with  him,  which  he  pays  into  the  loan  fund 
once  a  month.  Tailors  are  employed  who  are  enabled 
to  furnish  articles  at  a  slight  cost  to  the  fund,  yet  with 
a  fair  profit  to  themselves  ;  and  they  are  obliged,  under 
a  fine,  to  deliver  the  goods  on  the  day  week  after  they 
are  ordered.  What  the  children  earn  is  divided  into 
four  parts  ;  one  of  which  goes  to  the  little  workwo- 
man, a  second  to  the  mistress,  a  third  for  the  purchase 
of  threads,  &c,  and  by  a  further  improvement,  the 
children  are  paid,  not  in  money,  but  by  tickets,  value 
from  one  penny  to  a  shilling,  which  entitle  the  bearer 
to  articles  of  clothing  at  the  shop,  equivalent  to  the 
amount  of  tickets  presented.  I  have  some  of  these 
pretty  bank  notes,  which  are  not  transferable  ;  and  I 
have  also  a  beautiful  specimen  of  patchwork  to  exhibit, 
in  the  shape  of  a  large  counterpane,  all  made  by  the 
dear  active  little  Irish  fingers  5  with  a  dozen  of  hand- 
kerchiefs that  might  pass  for  fine  French  cambric,  all 
grown,  spun,  woven,  and  admirably  made  up,  by  the 
tenantry  of  this  favored  nobleman.  Oh,  surely  the 
Englishman  is  a  favored  man,  and  surely  he  may  bless 
God  every  hour  of  his  life  for  it,  who  comes  to  poor 


COUNTY    ARMAGH.  257 

Ireland,  and  settles  on  her  soil,  alike  minded  and  ena- 
bled to  be  a  blessing  to  her  children!  It  is  a  peculiar 
sort  of  delight  that  I  feel  at  Tandragee  ;  because  its 
truly  noble  owner  is  my  own  countryman,  laboring  to 
heal  the  wounds  that  our  fathers  have  made,  to  uproot 
the  curse  that  our  fathers  planted,  and  to  scatter  all 
around  him  the  glorious  gospel-light  which  England 
has  never  yet  fully  imparted  to  her  poor  sister. 

Before  leaving  the  shop,  i  must  teM  you  something 
of  the  expense  at  which  poor  Paddy  may  make  him- 
self, and  the  wife  and  the  children,  decent.  I  will  name 
the  lowest  prices  :  A  man's  shirt  is  2s. ;  a  suit  of 
clothes  15s.  j  great  coat  18s. ;  pair  of  stockings  Is. — 
making  a  complete  outfit  for  £1.  16s.  A  woman's 
entire  apparel,  including  bonnet  and  cloak,  maybe  had 
for  £1.  Os.  6d.  A  girl's  for  5s.  5d.  and  a  boy's  for  9s. 
lOd.  A  bedstead  and  bedding  complete,  with  blan- 
kets, sheets,  and  rug,  for  .£1.  Is.  lOd.  A  beautiful 
patchwork  quilt,  like  mine,  fetches  from  ten  to  eight- 
een shillings.  Altogether  it  is  a  delightful  contempla- 
tion, and  gives  rise  to  feelings  of  bitter  grief  that  so 
few,  so  very  few  should  be  found  thus  paying  back  to 
the  Lord,  in  the  persons  of  his  poor,  a  portion  of  the 
wealth  which  they  derive  from  their  possessions  in 
Ireland.  I  must  just  give  you  a  glimpse  of  the  medi- 
cal department  ;  it  is,  like  everything  else,  judiciously 
ordered,  and  so  as  to  do  the  most  possible  good.  A 
clever  professional  man  is  retained  to  attend  three 
times  in  the  week,  once  in  each  district,  at  the  several 
dispensaries,  and  to  visit  those  at  home  who  are  too  ill 
to  come  for  advice  ;  Lord  Mandeville  supplying  the 
means  for  this  noble  work  entirely  out  of  his  own 
purse.  The  returns  of  one  year  may  afford  you  some 
22 


258  LETTER    X. 

idea  of  the  comfort  and  benefit  derived  by  the\poor 
from  this  source.  Out  of  5209  patients,  the  number 
of  deaths  is  4-4,  including  eight  from  fever.  The  num- 
ber of  separate  visits  at  their  own  homes  was  1705  > 
and  the  prescriptions  11,248. 

With  respect  to  the  loan  fund,  the  amount  lent  m 
1836  was  £1540.  18s.,  and  the  instalments  repaid 
within  the  year,  amounted  to  .£1162.  16s.  5d.,  while 
the  quantity  of  clothing  sold  in  the  poor  shop  in  the 
same  year  was  <£555.  15s.  8d.  Can  you  not  imagine 
what  the  judicious  circulation  of  such  a  sum  among 
the  poor  Irish  tenantry  must  do  towards  improving 
their  condition,  and  softening  down  the  harsher  fea- 
tures of  a  character  sorely  deteriorated,  and  severely 
judged'*.  There  is  no  place  in  Ireland  where  the 
Romish  priesthood  have  less  power  over  the  people 
of  their  communion,  or  where  the  power  is  more 
effectually  crippled  ;  while  gratitude  to  their  noble 
benefactor  is  manifested  by  the  tenantry  in  various 
ways,  alike  pleasing  and  encouraging.  This  fine  pro- 
perty includes  10,654  acres,  with  a  population  of  9,206 
individuals. 

You  will  perhaps  say  that,  excepting  in  regard  to 
his  schools,  I  have  not  shown  Lord  Mandeville  as  do* 
ing  much  in  the  way  of  spiritual  instruction.  That  is 
the  crowning  work.  He  has  appointed  a  very  zealous 
clergyman  to  the  office  of  his  chaplain,  who  preaches 
in  each  of  the  country  school-houses  once  a  fortnight 
and  in  the  two  school-houses  in  Tandragee  and  Porta- 
down  once  a  week,  thus  proclaiming  the  gospel  of 
Christ  twenty-four  times  a  month  to  congregations 
that  daily  increase.  These  sermons  being  in  the  eve- 
nings do  not  interfere  with  the  parochial  clergy,  but  act 


COUNTY   ARMAGH.  259 

as  auxiliary  to  their  exertions.  Until  his  lordship  met 
with  this  valuable  minister  to  aid  his  work,  he  made  it 
his  own  business  to  instruct  his  tenantry,  and  might 
be  seen  in  a  school-house,  overflowing  with  delighted 
auditors,  who  listened  gladly  to  his  declarations  of  the 
blessed  gospel.  Temperance  societies  are  encouraged  ; 
a  free  choice  being  afforded  to  all  to  take  or  refuse  the 
pledge,  and  if  the  former,  to  determine  between  the 
moderation  and  the  total  abstinence  plan.  Care  is 
taken  to  place  the  matter  on  a  truly  Christian  basis,  so 
as  to  exclude  boasting,  and  to  guard  against  the  peril 
of  that  self-applauding  error  which  is  apt,  in  some 
cases,  when  it  has  nipped  off  a  bud  to  congratulate 
itself  as  though  it  had  laid  an  axe  to  the  root  of  the 
evil. 

One  striking  instance  of  a  marked  and  total  reforma- 
tion I  must  give  you.  In  the  year  1789,  a  Sunday- 
school  was  opened  at  a  place  called  Blue-stone,  on  this 
estate.  A  rock,  or  immense  stone,  formerly  stood 
at  a  place  where  three  lanes  met,  and  was  dreadfully 
famous  as  the  rendezvous  of  Caravats,  Shanavests,  and 
other  lawless  bands,  who  preceded  the  Whitefeet, 
Rockites,  Ribbonmen,  &c,  of  our  day.  On  this  blue 
stone  illegal  notices  were  posted,  and  it  was  remarka- 
ble for  everything  that  was  bad.  At  length  some 
murderers  being  seized,  tried,  and  convicted,  were 
executed  and  interred  at  the  three  lanes'  ends,  at  the 
blue  stone,  which,  as  the  legend  says,  was  buried  with 
them  by  the  officers  of  justice,  deep  beneath  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground  where  it  had  stood.  The  place, 
however,  has  retained  its  name,  a  memorial  of  what 
it  once  was.  The  founder  of  the  Sunday  school  here 
was  Joseph  Malcolmson,  who  yet  lives  to  rejoice  in 


$60  Letter  x 

the  abundance  of  blessing  that  has  crowned  his  work 
He  is  a  devoted  old  man,  still  keeping  his  little  grocer's 
shop,  where  the  Home  Missionary,  and  every  preacher 
of  righteousnessj  always  finds  a  heartwarm  welcome 
to  the  hospitable  board  of  the  patriarchal  man,  spread 
by  the  hands  of  his  aged  partner,  ever  seeking  the  pri- 
vilege of  entertaining:  such  as  come  in  the  Lord's  name* 
Blue-stone,  from  being  a  by-name  to  designate  all  that 
was  evil,  is  become  the  most  orderly,  peaceable,  and 
respectable  neighborhood  in  the  county  !  the  Sunday- 
school  numbers  from  three  to  four  hundred  pupils  j 
the  teachers  have  all  been  brought  up  in  it  ;  and  to  this 
school  is  attributed,  under  God,  the  marvellous  change 
wrought  in  the  character  of  the  people.  Old  Josey 
Malcolmson,  whose  heart  glows  with  the  fire  of  true 
Christian  zeal  and  love,  is  looked  up  to  as  a  common, 
parent  by  all  around  him  j  and  the  general  hope  is  that 
he  may  be  spared  to  take  part  in  the  jubilee  which 
Lord  Mandeville  purposes  holding,  if  God  permit,  in 
the  year  1839,  to  celebrate  the  half  century  that  will 
then  have  elapsed  since  the  little  one  which  has  become 
a  thousand  was  first  established  at  Blue-stone. 

I  must  leave  you  to  ponder  over  these  long,  but  I 
trust  not  uninteresting  details,  of  what  I  could  easily 
extend  to  the  bulk  of  a  volume  by  merely  doing  just- 
ice to  the  subject.  I  have  much  still  to  see,  before 
leaving  the  castle,  if  the  weather  proves  a  little  more 
favorable  ;  and  as  it  is  now  settled  thatlgO  by  Belfast 
to  Derry,  I  may  write  to  you  from  the  former  place 
with  some  further  account  of  my  present  interesting 
residence.  I  will,  however,  just  add  that  having  got 
as  far  as  the  infant  school,  more  than  half  way  dowrn 
the  long  hilly  street,  I  have  been  exceedingly  delight- 


COUNTY    ARMAGH.  261 

ed  by  the  spectacle.     A  very  spacious  room,  remark-* 
ably   lofty   and   airy,  holds   the   liveliest,  most  intelli- 
gent and   comical   set  of  little   creatures,   admirably 
taught.     They    were    kept    considerably  beyond   the 
regular  hour,  for  our  inspection,  and  their  own  amuse- 
ment, as  it  proved  ;  for  we  afterward?  engaged  them  in 
a  regular  game  at  play,  to  the  infinite  delight  of  their 
parents,  and  elder  brothers  and  sisters,  who,  coming 
to  fetch  the  babes  home,  were  provided  with  seats  near 
the  door,  and  greatly  enjoyed  the  sport  which  respect 
prevented  their  attempting  to  join  in.     The  frolic  con- 
sisted in  our  building  a  very  high  pyramid  of  wooden 
bricks,  and  then  allowing  the  little  creatures,  all  pro- 
perly ranged,  to  let  off  a  volley  of  the  same  harmless 
missiles   at    the    word  of  command.     Nothing  could 
have    better    elicited    the   national  characteristics  of 
drollery,  energy,  and  shall  I  add,  mischief?     They  had 
gone  through  ail  their  exercises  with  wonderful  pre- 
cision, and   had  well   earned  the  little  effort  we  made 
to  repay  them.    It  was  delightful  to  observe  the  decent 
appearance,  contented  air,  and    affectionate  looks  of 
the  elder  spectators  ;  and  the  heartfelt   interest  with 
■which  they  listened  to  hymns  and  prayers,  in  which 
the  little  creatures  lifted  up  their  tender  voices.     Yes, 
this  indeed  is  a  link  between  parties  too  long  and  too 
sternly  severed  ;  and  if  a  cloud  passes  over  my  mind 
while  contemplating  such  a  scene,  it  is  in  the  shape  of 
a  sudden  recollection  of  that  hateful  National  School 
plan.     It  has  started  up  like  Siitan  in  paradise,  to  blight 
the    work    which   God   himself  had  smiled  upon,  and 
pronounced  very  good. 


LETTER  XI. 


COUNTY    DOV/N. 


Belfast,  Jlugust 
Little  prospect  appearing  of  a  change  in  the  weather, 
a  plan  was  devised  to  show  me  the  lower  demesne, as 
it  is  called,  of  Tandragee  castle.  I  was  seated  in  a 
small  carriage,  or  rather  a  garden  chairj  with  one 
good-humored  young  Irishman  between  the  shafts,  an* 
other  at  the  back,  Mr.  Porter  and  W.  well  cloaked,  on 
foot  beside  me,  two  fine  dogs  to  complete  the  cortege, 
and  in  this  fashion  was  actually  paraded  not  only 
through  the  grounds,  but  also  along  the  endless  street 
of  the  town.  Think  what  a  gaping  train  would  have 
followed  such  a  show  in  our  country!  In  Ireland,  let 
your  situation  be  what  it  may,  you  have  only  to  laugh, 
and  everybody  laughs  with,  nobody  at  you.  The  de- 
scent, however,  into  the  lower  demesne  was  no  laugh- 
ing matter:  the  united  strength  of  three  men  could 
scarcely  prevent  my  carriage  from  running  full  speed 
down  the  bank>  at  the  bottom  of  which  rushed  a  most 
formidably  rapid  little  torrent,  with  a  level  bridge  just 
sufficient  for  a  safe  passage;  had  I  missed  it  but  by  an 
inch  there  is  no  saying  what  would  have  been  the 
consequence.  This  is  the  strangest  place  I  ever  be- 
held ;  and  certainly  it  must  be  magnificent  when  the 


COUNTY   DOWN.  263 

weather  allows  it  to  be  fairly  seen :  but  what  with  the 
thick  rain-drops  incessantly  falling  from  immense 
trees  over  head,  the  double  gloom  shed  around  by 
cloudy  weather  and  the  nervous  trepidation  excited,  I 
could  scarcely  discern  the  features  of  the  scene.  The 
most  remarkable  were  the  height,  size,  and  number  of 
its  venerable  trees,  and  the  violent  speed  of  a  river 
that  went  hurrying  on  between  smooth  banks,  and  with 
no  visible  cause  for  such  extraordinary  rapidity.  It 
is  much  wider  than  the  mountain  stream  at  Tollymore, 
but  the  waters,  at  least  on  that  day,  were  so  yellow 
and  turbid  that  they  reminded  me  of  the  Douro,  as 
described  by  some  of  my  peninsular  friends.  Just  as 
I  reached  a  fine  prospect  on  its  borders,  the  rain  came 
down  in  such  torrents  that  it  was  absolutely  necessary 
to  retreat ;  and  I  can  only  say  that  from  a  very  slight 
view  under  very  unfavorable  circumstances,  I  think 
Tandragee  a  most  noble  place.  We  took  shelter  in  a 
boys'  school-house,  where  I  was  much  pleased  with 
the  method  of  teaching  pursued,  and  the  progress 
made  by  the  lads :  afterwards  we  paid  a  short  visit  to 
a  family  of  whom  I  should  have  liked  to  see  more  j 
and  returned  in  state  to  the  castle,  dripping  at  every 
thread.  We  were  to  have  dined  with  the  Dean  of 
Tuam,  whose  handsome  place  looked  most  inviting 
from  the  library  window,  but  to  reach  it  was  impossi- 
ble :  I  had  taken  cold  already,  and  dared  not  run  any 
further  hazards. 

Sunday  morning  proved  bright,  and  we  walked  to 
the  boys'  school  across  the  grounds,  where  I  chose  a 
very  young  class,  and  tried  hard  for  an  hour  to  im- 
press on  their  tender  minds  the  import  of  that  com- 
prehensive verse,  "  As  Moses  lifted  up  the  serpent  in 


264?  LETTER    XI- 

the  wilderness,  even  so  must  the  Son  of  Man  be  lifted 
up;  that  whosoever  believeth  in  him  should  not  per- 
ish, but  have  everlasting-  life."  My  dear  little  boys 
were  very  attentive,  and  the  period  being  elapsed,  I 
enjoyed  a  specimen  of  the  uncompromising  spirit 
which  I  so  dearly  love.  The  children  being  drawn 
up  on  each  side  the  long  room,-  the  teachers  at  the 
bottom,  Mr.  Porter  at  the  head,  all  joined  in  singing 
those  fine  stanzas  of  Watts — 

In  Gabriel's  hand  a  mighty  stone 
Lies,  a  fair  type  of  Babylon. 

After  this,  we  repaired  to  the  church,  and  then  I 
had  another  class  of  another  school,  a  Scripture  class, 
who  answered  admirably  on  whatever  point  they  were 
questioned.  Being  too  soon  for  afternoon  service, 
we  walked  up  to  the  top  of  the  steeple,  and  thence  1 
took  a  lono-  earnest  survey  of  the  Mourne  mountains, 
and  sent  my  heart  into  the  midst  of  the  beloved  dwell- 
ers at  the  foot  of  Slieve  Donard.  There  was  a 
shocking  deed  perpetrated  here  not  long  ago  :  who 
were  the  culprits  has  not  been  discovered:  but  these 
wild  Irish  will  stick  at  nothing,  however  treasonable. 
You  have  not,  of  course,  forgotten  the  memorable 
campaign  in  which  Lord  Mulgrave  sent  his  troops  to 
gather  laurels  among  the  lilies.  Tandragee  is  an 
awfully  bad  place  :  there  was  no  knowing  what  might 
happen  if  the  town  was  not  strongly  garrisoned  before 
the  12th  of  July.  It  was  even  said  that  a  garland  of 
the  obnoxious  flowers  was  to  be  stretched  across  the 
street;  but  if  any  such  enormity  was  in  contempla- 
tion the  presence  of  the  troops  happily  prevented  the 
outrage.     They  marched  in,  took  up  their  quarters  to 


county  Down.  265 

the  best  advantage,  furbished  their  arms,  primed, 
loaded,  and  went  to  bed.  Instead  of  following  their 
praiseworthy  example,  some  wight  was  hardened 
enough  in  wickedness  to  provide  himself  with  a  long 
pole  and  a  rope,  and  in  the  dead  of  night  ascended 
the  church  steeple,  which,  as  I  told  you,  crowns  the 
hill,  and  is  visible  to  the  whole  town.  In  short,  when 
the  military  looked  out  from  their  cantonments  "at 
the  top  of  the  morning"  they  beheld,  to  their  inex- 
pressible dismay,  the  complete  frustration  of  all  their 
labors  in  the  preventive  service  ;  for  there,  in  auda- 
cious defiance  of  the  allied  powers  in  Dublin,  a  flag, 
hoisted  on  the  steeple,  danced  right  merrily  in  the 
breeze,  just  as  though  it  had  done  nothing  to  be 
ashamed  of.  You  may  suppose  what  a  cry  there  was 
for  scaling  ladders  to  take  it  down — -no  such  thing: 
the  soldiers  looked  at  it,  and  went  to  breakfast.  No 
notice  was  taken — it  might  have  been  rather  a  deli- 
cate step  to  invade  Lord  Mandeville's  territory,  and 
the  church  is  within  his  castle-wall.  His  lordship 
was  not  there,  it  is  true  \  but,  somehow,  the  flag  was 
left  to  float,  and  formed  a  very  pretty  object  in  the 
sight  of  the  people,  who  have  too  much  sense  to  quar- 
rel with  an  orange  lily,  and  who  wondered  from  what 
the  troops  came  to  protect  them. 

The  flag-staff,  which  seemed  to  be  neither  more  nor 
less  than  the  slender  trunk  of  a  tall  young  tree,  was 
still  lying  on  the  steeple,  where  I  lingered  to  enjoy 
the  luxuriant  prospect.  It  was  indeed  indescribably 
grand,  and  gave  me  an  idea  of  what  I  lost  through  the 
misty  atmosphere  on  Slieve  Donard,  which  is  about 
ten  or  fifteen  times  as  high  as  the  point  where  I  then 
stood,  Lough  Neagh  was  very  distinctly  seen,  as  a 
23 


266  LETTER   XI. 

glittering  silver  speck  in  the  far  north  ;  and  when  1 
thought  of  the  blessings  shed  around  on  the  many 
thousands  of  tenantry  here  and  under  Lord  Roden,  I 
really  felt  an  elation  of  spirit  that  almost  realized  by 
faith  the  fond  wish  of  my  heart  to  see  the  circle  of 
peace  and  happiness  gradually  enlarging,  until  it 
should,  like  the  sunbeam  then  emerging  from  a  pass- 
ing cloud,  spread  its  mantle  of  joyous  light  over  the 
whole  territory  of  dear  Erin.  This  feeling  attended 
me  throughout  the  succeeding  hours  of  divine  wor? 
ship  ;  and  I  prayed  for  my  adopted  country,  that  those 
who  love  her  may  be  commissioned  to  take  up  the 
prophet's  strain  and  say,  "  Fear  not,  O  land  ;  rejoice 
and  be  glad,  for  the  Lord  will  do  great  things." 

It  was  arranged  that  we  should  start  by  six  o'clock 
the  next  morning  for  Portadown,  to  meet  the  Belfast 
early  coach.  Our  kind  friend  purposed  accompany- 
ing us,  but  I  forbad  it,  rinding  how  severely  he  was 
suffering  from  a  cold  taken  in  our  service.  A  warm 
invitation  to  Rostrevor  was  reluctantly  declined  ;  and 
after  taking  a  last,  long,  admiring  look  at  my  garland, 
which  had  retained  its  beauty  unimpaired  for  three 
days,  I  bade  farewell  to  a  spot  which  it  will  always 
cheer  me  to  think  upon,  and  rattled  off,  under  the 
superior  coachmanship  of  the  sharp  little  fellow  who 
had  driven  us  to  the  castle.  The  horse  was  in  high 
condition  and  higher  spirits  ;  the  lad  was  proud  of  his 
mettle  5  the  elegant  car  was  light  as  a  feather,  the 
road  downhill,  and  W —  says,  that  of  all  his  Irish  ad- 
ventures, he  shall  the  longest  remember  our  flight 
from  Tandragee.  It  was,  indeed,  at  a  rail-road  pace 
we  started  ;  and  in  the  freshness  of  a  lovely  morning 
after  so  much  rain  the  sensation  was  altogether  deli- 


COUNTY  DOWN.  267 

cious.  When  the  horse  was  pleased  to  slacken  his 
pace  a  little,  we  could  better  distinguish  the  features 
of  the  country,  which  presents  a  noble  specimen  of 
justice  done  to  the  rich  soil  of  Ireland.  Portadown 
is  a  neat  little  town,  belonging  also  to  Lord  Mande- 
ville,  who  is  building  a  handsome  school-house  near 
the  church.  Here  we  anticipated  the  coach  by  half 
an  hour  ;  and  here  I  forfeited  my  hard-earned  Protes- 
tant reputation,  in  the  sight  at  least  of  some  zealous 
partizans.  As  an  impartial  narrator,  I  am  bound  to 
give  you  the  facts  of  the  case. 

Two  coaches  pass  from  Armagh  to  Belfast,  nearly 
at  the  same  time  >  Mr.  Porter  had  advised  me  to  take 
advantage  of  the  first,  if  possible,  lest  there  might  be 
no  vacancies  in  the  other.  We  learned  from  our  lit- 
tle driver,  that  one  of  these  was  a  Protestant  coach, 
and  the  other  a  Roman  one  ;  and  it  was  evident  which 
way  his  predilection  lay,  by  his  frequent  assurance 
that  there  was  every  prospect  of  the  Protestant  coach 
coming  up  first.  At  last  a  vehicle  approached  ;  we 
had  left  the  car,  and  were  walking  past  a  house,  at 
the  door  of  which  stood  a  stout  pugnacious-looking 
man,  who,  in  reply  to  our  hasty  inquiry,  whether  that 
was  the  Armagh  and  Belfast  coach,  said,  "Not  at  all : 
but  the  coach  will  be  here  just  now."  However,  a 
few  doors  onward  they  drew  up,  and  commenced 
chano-ino-  horses,  and  [  sent  W — to  ask  the  coachman 
where  they  were  going  :  "  From  Armagh  to  Belfast..,, 
"  How  soon  1  "  "  Directly  :  we  shall  be  there  before 
ten."  On  this,  I  bade  W —  secure  forthwith  two 
places,  and  get  the  luggage  mounted.  But  how  shall 
I  describe  the  indignation  of  my  mis-informer!  he 
shouted  out,  "  That   is  the   Popish  coach;  you  won't 


268  LETTER    XI. 

get  into  Belfast  in  any  time.  The  Protestant  coach 
is  just  coming  up.  Sure  you  won*t  go  in  that !"'  and 
finding-  me  resolved,  he  at  last  exclaimed,  "  Mr.  Por- 
ter would  not  go  in  that  coach  for  ten  pounds."  J 
could  not  help  laughing,  although  indignant  at  the 
untruths  so  freely  told,  evidently  by  an  interested 
individual  on  the  watch  to.  benefit  his  own  establish- 
ment. ;  and  the  sly  humor  that  played  on  the  features 
of  the  adverse  party,  the  quiet  drollery  of  both  coach- 
man and  guard,  suppressed  by  personal  respect,  as 
they  most  courteously  answered  my  inquiries  and  in-. 
stalled  us  in  the  empty  vehicle,  formed  a  favorable 
contrast  to  the  angry  professor  of  orthodoxy.  Lord 
Mandeville's  livery  on  the  one  hand,  and  on  the  other 
an  order  to  be  set  down  at  the  Downshire  Arms  in 
Belfast,  afforded  a  or-uarantee  for  our  Protestantism  J 
and  I  was  really  glad  to  prove  my  dislike  of  such  nar- 
rowness, real  or  assumed,  by  an  extra  measure  of 
civility  and  of  liberality  towards  the  "Popish  coach.'* 
It  is  not  by  making1  their  religion  a  reproach,  and  a 
bar  to  their  success  in  fair  trading  or  honest  labor, 
that  we  shall  detach  the  people  from  it :  far  other- 
wise. I  feel  it  a  most  important  duty  to  avoid  such 
needless  and  injurious  collision  with  their  feelings, 
and  on  this  principle  I  do  most  cordially  concur  in 
the  abolishing  of  processions,  party  tunes,  and  the 
parade  of  badges,  where  they  would  be  construed  into 
an  insult  against  the  poor  people.  Moreover  I  am 
certain  that  the  Orangemen  would  cheerfully  have 
laid  aside  all  outward  signs,  if  requested  so  to  do,  for 
the  sake  of  peace  and  good-will :  but  this  does  not 
excuse,  it  exceedingly  aggravates  the  wrong  inflicted 
on  these  loyal  men ',  and  the  insult  offered  by  dis- 


COUNTY    DOWN.  269 

patching  troops,  under  an  affected  apprehension  of 
what  nobody  really  supposed  would  occur.  Such 
treatment  is  directly  calculated,  and  I  firmly  believe 
as  far  as  the  real  governors  of  this  country  are  con- 
cerned, deliberately  planned,  to  produce  what  it  is  os- 
tensibly done  to  discourage.  Both  parties  know  it  to 
be  so. 

You  would  be  surprised  at  the  close,  the  perfect 
resemblance  that  the  road  to  Belfast  from  Armagh 
bears  to  England.  I  could  hardly  persuade  myself 
that  Lisburn  was  west  of  St.  George's  Channel :  there 
is  nothing  Irish  about  it.  The  immediate  approach  to 
Belfast  is  splendid :  a  fine  road,  high  cultivation, 
beautiful  villas,  substantial  brick  houses  surrounded 
by  bleaching  grounds,  the  look  of  prosperity,  and 
total  absence  of  everything  opposed  to  it,  might  have 
prepared  me  for  the  aspect  of  the  town  itself,  which, 
nevertheless,  struck  me  with  astonishment.  The 
streets  are  wide,  straight,  and  admirably  paved  ;  the 
buildings  capacious,  uniform,  and  equal  to  some  of 
the  best  commercial  parts  of  London  ;  particularly 
the  High  street,  with  its  broad  flagstones,  its  lofty 
houses,  spacious  hotels  and  very  handsome  shops. 
The  situation  of  this  noble  city  is  enchanting  :  it 
stands  on  a  broad  lough,  with  a  mountainous  back" 
ground,  plentifully  interspersed  with  gardens  about 
the  environs,  and  altogether  it  rejoiced  my  heart  to 
find  such  a  spot  in  Ireland  ;  so  free  from  the  distress- 
inc  drawbacks  that  abound  even  in  Dublin.  But  this  is 
the  north,  the  "  black  north,"  the  protestant  north  ! 

My  privileges  here  are   very  great,  as  you  will  ac- 
knowledge when  I  tell  you  that  our  hospitable  wel- 
come was  prepared  at  the  breakfast-table  of  that  truly 
23* 


270  LETTER    XI. 

Christian   soldier,  whose   touching  narrative   of  the 
"  Loss  of  the  Kent  East  Indiaman"   has  so   often  in- 
structed and  delighted  us.    He  commands  the  garrison 
here;  his   Highland  regiment,   distinguished   by  the 
singular  title  of  "  The  Happy,"  is  a  splendid  one  ;  and 
I  have  seen  them  to   advantage  under  the  animating 
circumstances  of  a  contested  election,  just  about  to 
take  place,  where  the  peace  and  security  of  this  noble 
mart  mainly  depended  on  their  temper  and  firmness. 
Parties  run  very  high  in  Belfast ;  the  Protestants  being 
divided  among  themselves,  while  the  Romish  enemy, 
or  rather  enmity,  is  strong  in  bitterness,  though  weak 
in  comparative  numbers.     Such  life  and  bustle  as  the 
broad  thoroughfares  present  would  be  highly  amusing, 
did  not  some  bodings  of  a  violent  conflict  damp  that 
feeling.     Here  you  might  behold  a  knot  of  gentlemen, 
most   earnestly  discussing  the  merits    of  respective 
cases,    and   balancing   the   probabilities    of   success} 
there    a   group   of  peasants,   just    arrived,    receiving 
information  from  their  city  friends,  and  with  looks 
of    stern    resolve,    or    fiery    impatience,    venting    in 
their  own  language  the   sentiments   of  their  hearts. 
Carelessly    lounging    by,  you    see    now  and  then  a 
Highland  officer,  his  air  of  good-humored  unconcern 
neutralized  by  the  keen  quick  glance  that  ever  and 
anon  takes  in  the  general  aspect  of  things  around  him ; 
while  at  the  windows  of  a  large  building,  and  probably 
at  others  which  I  did  not  observe,  parties  of  private 
soldiers  are  to  be  seen,  with  the  same  quiet  yet  watch- 
ful expression  of  countenance.     To  complete  the  pic- 
ture, numerous  bodies  of  the  armed  police,  in  their 
dark-green  uniform,  are  scattered  in  every  direction, 
mingling  among  the  people,  conversing  with  some, 


COUNTY   DOWN.  271 

admonishing  others,  menacing  not  a  few,  and  evidently- 
operating  as  a  powerful  check  where  such  is  greatly 
needed.     It   was  through   this   assemblage    that   we 
wound   our  way,  never  impeded,  nor  falling  in  with 
anything  like  a  crowd,  to  visit  the  institution  where 
those   afflicted  classes,  the  blind,  and  the  deaf  and 
dumb,  receive  instruction.     A  day's  sojourn  would  not 
allow  of  my  seeing  more  than  this  of  the  interesting 
objects  with  which  Belfast  abounds ;  and  I  did  not 
regret  the  selection.     The  number  of  pupils  is  small: 
they  appear  as  one  family,  united  to  each  other  and  to 
their  teacher  by  no  ordinary  bonds.     Never  did  I  be- 
hold looks  more  unequivocally  expressive  of  love  and 
confidence  than  those  which  the  deaf  mutes  bent  on 
their  master  ;  while  the  mild,  sad  countenances  of  the 
blind  were   lighted   up  at  the   sound  of  his  voice.     I 
could  really  have  passed  the   whole  day  among  them, 
it  was  so  delightful.     The  plan  pursued  with  the  latter 
class  is  that  of  reading  by  means  of  embossed  charac- 
ters ;  and  this  they  did  with  the  utmost  ease.     It  was 
no  matter  to  what  page,  line,  or  word  you  guided  the 
finger :  the   blind   girl   or  boy  proceeded  from    that 
point,  reading  the  Holy  Scriptures  with  an  evident 
relish  and  enjoyment  until  told  to  stop.     The  other 
class,  of  course,  are  instructed  by  means  of  slates  and 
the  finger  language ;  and  one  touching  spectacle  we 
had  of  the  value  of  the   latter,  when  a  little  girl  who 
was  quite  dumb  took  the  hand  of  a  little  boy  perfectly 
blind,  and  by  forming  the   letters  on   it  with  her  own 
fingers,  quickly  told  him  who  we  were,  our  number, 
names,  and  so  forth.     A  large  slate  was  placed  on  an 
easel,  round  which  the  deaf  mutes  arranged   them- 
selves ;  and  various  words  and  sentences  being  writ- 


272  LETTER  XI. 

ten  thereon,  they  gave  us,  according  to  their  respective 
rates  of  progress,  their  answers,  explanations,  or  ob- 
servations.    All  this   was  done  with  a  glee  and  glad- 
ness perfectly  enchanting,  and  equally  indescribable. 
You  can  scarcely  know  what  the  human  countenance 
is  capable  of,  in  the  way  of  animated  eloquence,  since 
you  never  saw  a  group  of  deaf  and  dumb  Irish  child- 
ren.    In  explanation  of  the  plan  by  which  they  were 
led  to  make  the  most  rapid  progress  I  ever  witnessed, 
a  lesson  was  gone  through,  to  the  extreme  delight  of 
all  the  children,  and  our   great   entertainment.     You 
know  what  mimics  they  are — necessarily  so,  since  all 
their  wants  must  be  expressed  by  signs,  previous  to 
education ;  and  they  can  only  convey  their  meaning 
by  dramatizing  the  matter.     Well,  a  chubby-cheeked 
little  fellow,  the  very  beau-ideal  of  infant  drollery,  was 
called  forth,  and  another,  not  much  bigger,  was  sum- 
moned to  perform  the  various  offices  of  tailor,  shoe- 
maker, hatter,  and  barber,  for   his  benefit.     Measure 
was  first  taken,  and  particulars  noted  down,  with  the 
rapidity  of  thought ;  then  the  operator,  squatted   on 
the  floor,  proceeded  to  cut  out,  sew,  and  smoothe  the 
respective  articles,  which  he  brought  home  and  put 
on.     All  was  merely  action  ;  no  material  present ;  but 
the  different  things  represented  being  also  spelled  by 
the  finger  language,  a  complete  lesson  was  learned 
and  communicated  amid  the  merry  laughter   of  the 
pupils.     The  operation  of  shaving  was  too  much  for 
the  gravest  among  us:  it  was  done  to  the  life,  from 
the  first  setting  of  the  chair  to  the  last  wipe  of  the 
patient's  chin  with  an  imaginary  napkin,  and  the  keen 
examination,  ringing,  and   pocketing  of  a   visionary 
piece  of  money.     In  the  midst  of  their  mirth,  several 


COUNTY    DOWN.  273 

of  the  dear  little  creatures  turned  a  most  compassion-, 
ate  look  on  the  blind,  whose  case  appeared  to  move 
them  deeply  ;  while  the  latter  were  quietly  intent  on 
their  own  far  higher  studies  ;  and  one  among  them 
was  actually  teaching  W.  to  print  his  own  name.  You 
may  suppose  I  was  in  high  favor  with  the  deaf  and 
dumb ;  even  the  youngest  among  them,  who  could 
hardly  shape  a  letter,  were  all  full  of  chat  with  me, 
finding  that  I  was  so  perfectly  at  home  in  their 
untaught  signs.  I  never  witnessed  a  scene  of  more 
unclouded  happiness,  beaming  and  sparkling  in  every 
face  ;  yet,  alas  !  there  was  that  in  it  which  drew  many 
a  sigh  from  the  pious  friends  around  them:  for  the 
difficulty  of  communicating  to  them  that  spiritual 
knowledge  of  which  their  blind  companions  were 
freely  quaffing,  is  extreme.  Only  two  or  three  were 
sufficiently  advanced  to  comprehend  abstract  ideas, 
by  means  of  language  ;  the  rest  having  been  but  a 
few  weeks  under  tuition.  There  was  a  splendid  little 
Romanist,  a  most  promising  genius,  still  in  petticoats, 
whose  energies  appeared  to  lie  very  much  in  his  fists, 
so  far  as  the  practical  demonstrations  went:  over  him 
I  offered  many  a  secret  prayer,  and  he  was  on  the 
point  of  crying  when  he  ran  round  to  repeat  his  good-? 
bye.  In  truth  my  very  heart  clung  to  these  children, 
nor  had  I  to  complain  of  any  lack  of  reciprocity.  May 
the  Lord's  richest  blessing  rest  on  this  humane  and 
pious  undertaking!  I  am  sure  it  will.  A  house  where 
the  blind  are  taught  to  read  God's  word,  the  deaf  vir- 
tually to  hear  it,  and  the  dumb  to  spread  its  joyful 
sound,  is  surely  most  precious  in  his  sight.  The  most 
appropriate  inscription  for  such  a  place  would  be,  "Is 
there  anything  too  hard  for  the  Lord  V 


274*  LETTER   XI. 

The  barracks  are  \ery  spacious,  finely  situated  out- 
side the  town;  and  Colonel  Macgregor's  house  is  far- 
ther on,  enjoying  a  view  of  the  bay,  and  of  a  singular 
mountain,  the  outline  of  which  is  really  a  colossal 
representation  of  the  countenance  so  well  known 
through  Europe — Napoleon,  the  scourge  of  God 
Whilst  we  wTere  at  dinner,  tidings  arrived  that  the 
soldiery  and  people  had  already  come  into  collision  ; 
but  in  a  trifling  degree,  and  only  for  a  few  moments, 
through  the  quiet  determination  and  steadiness  of  the 
Highlanders.  We  hope  the  election  will  pass  over 
without  any  serious  disturbance. 

The  evening  has  been  spent  at  the  mansion  of  a  hos- 
pitable friend — a  friend  of  a  few  hours'  acquaintance 
only,  yet  already  united  more  closely  in  the  most  en- 
during of  all  bonds,  that  of  Christian  fellowship — than 
the  children  of  this  world  could  be  united  in  many 
years'  intercourse.  Here,  in  addition  to  the  family 
with  whom  I  spent  the  day,  we  had  a  guest  whom  you 
or  I  would  go  no  small  distance  to  meet:  Dr.  Cooke, 
that  concentration  of  Protestantism,  that  bold  cham- 
pion of  our  church,  and  just  pride  of  his  own.  I  need 
say  no  more  to  convince  you  of  my  enviable  condi- 
tion, except  that  Dr.  Cooke  speaks  most  exultingly  of 
the  success  attending  the  Irish  Scripture  readers' 
labors.  He  considers  their  work  as  actually  and 
effectually  undermining  the  foundation  of  Antichrist 
in  this  land  ;  and  looks  for  such  results  as  you  have 
occasionally  rebuked  me  for  anticipating  from  means 
so  insignificant  in  man's  sight.  I  am  sometimes 
silenced  but  never  convinced  by  what  is  said  to  the 
contrary.  I  am  positively  certain  that  the  man  who 
assists  to  proclaim  the  Gospel  among  the  native  Irish 


COUNTY   DOWN.  275 

in  their  own  tongue   does  more  to  heal  these  embit- 
tered waters  than  in  any  other  way  he  could  possibly 
do.     History,  reason,  observation,  and  my  own  actual 
experience  in  the  work,  all   combine   to  strengthen  a 
conviction  that  for  many  years  has  been  exposed  to 
every  species  of  trial.     I  allude,  of  course,  principally 
to  the   adult  Irish-speaking  population  ;  but  even  as 
regards  their  children  it  is  of  paramount  importance 
to  enable  them  to   read  that  blessed  book  in  the  lanr 
guage  that  sounds  so  sweet  within  the  poor  mud  walls 
of  their   own  cabin.     The  fact  that   every  individual 
who    acquires   the   power    of  reading  Irish  becomes 
anxious  to  learn  English,  and  is  enabled  so  to  do  by 
means    of  the    primers    circulated   by   that    precious 
Irish  Society,  ought  in  itself  to  animate  every  lover  of 
England  and  of  Protestantism  to  the  work.    Think  of 
the  sum  required  to  salary  a  regular,  teacher  among 
the  peasantry — not   quite    one    pound   per    quarter  ! 
Does  not  the  bare  idea  of  so  much  good  to  be  achiev- 
ed by  such  a  trifle  make  the  sovereigns  fidget  in  your 
purse  1     Let  them  out :  by  the  aid  of  a  little  of  the 
unrighteous  mammon  committed  to  your  stewardship, 
the  word  of  God  shall  run  and  be  glorified  through 
the  length  and  breadth  of  this  isle.     I  will  prefix  no 
epithets;  my  heart  is  too  full  of  love  and  compassion 
for  it  to  be  easily  poured  out  on  paper.     Some  there 
are  who  fancy  that  it  is  a  species  of  affectation  on  my 
part,  done  for  effect,  when  I  do  utter  somewhat  of 
these  feelings.     The  Lord  alone  knoweth  what  is  in 
us;  but  I  think  he  sees  me  guiltless  in  this  matter ; 
for  while  the  apprehension  either  of  injuring  the  cause 
or  needlessly  exposing  myself  to  reproof,  often  leads 
me  to  impose  a  painful  curb  on  my  tongue  or  pen,  by 


276  LETTER   XI. 

refraining  from  such  language,  I  solemnly  declare  that 
the  warmest  expressions  which  ever  escaped  from 
either  upon  the  subject,  were  utterly  inadequate  to 
convey  the  depth,  the  extent,  the  all-pervading  cha- 
racter of  that  love  which  I  do,  and  by  God's  grace, 
ever  will  cherish  for  Ireland! 

This  is  a  short  letter :  our  places  are  taken  in  the 
mail  which  leaves  Belfast  at  eight  o'clock,  and  which 
will,  in  twelve  hours'  time,  if  all  be  well,  convey  lis 
to  the  walls,  the  glorious  walls  of  the  maiden  city. 
A  word  I  must  add,  however,  on  the  subject  of  Derry. 
In  the  humble  volume  bearing  that  title,  which  I  ven- 
tured to  publish  a  few  years  since,  I  have  inadvertent- 
ly and  most  unintentionally  wronged  the  Presbyteri- 
ans of  the  north.  Dr.  Cooke  has  pointed  out  the 
error,  which  consists  in  representing  them  as  being 
all  implicated  in  the  reported  extravagances  of  an 
individual,  Hewson  ;  and  also  as  being  about  to  fight 
with  the  Episcopalians  in  the  Diamond,  for  the  use 
of  the  cathedral.  It  seems  that  Dr.  Reid,  in  a  recent 
work,  has  strongly  protested  against  me  on  the  score 
of  these  mistakes  ;  supposing  that  I  followed  some 
prejudiced  writers  of  that  day.  This  I  did  not;  hav- 
ing only  Walker's  Diary,  and  (3-raham's  History  of 
the  Siege,  in  addition  to  Leland's  history  of  Ireland  j 
and  I  was  totally  ignorant  of  any  dispute  on  the  sub- 
ject. Dr.  Cooke,  well  knowing  that  the  unity  of  the 
true  church  of  Christ  is  as  dear  to  my  heart  as  to  his 
own,  most  fully  acquits  me  of  intentional  error ;  and 
I  am  anxious  to  make  an  amende  to  our  brethren  of 
the  north,  by  cordially  correcting  the  mistake  which 
I  am  vexed  to  think  has  run  through  the  five  editions 
of  that  little  work  \  but  which,  if  ever  it  reaches  a 


COUNTY   DOWN,  277 

sixth,  shall  be  fully  rectified.  Meanwhile,  lend  me 
your  assistance  in  making  known  this  retractation ; 
for  you  can  bear  me  witness  that  out  of  her  own  dis- 
tinct pale  the  Church  of  Scotland  has  not  a  rribre 
attached  ally  than  your  poor  friend.  Descended, 
maternally,  from  the  covenanters  of  the  north,  I  glory 
in  inheriting  a  portion  of  their  uncompromising  feel- 
ing, and  more  than  theoretical  protest  against  great 
Babylon  :  and  I  should  creep  into  Derry  with  some- 
what of  the  conscious  treachery  that  oppressed  Gov- 
ernor Lundy  when  he  stole  out  of  it,  if  I  hesitated  to 
avow  my  regret  in  this  matter  ;  since  Dr.  Reid  has 
deemed  it  worth  a  passing  reproof  in  his  learned  and 
weighty  volumes.  May  it  please  him  who  in  1688 
moved  the  hearts  of  the  Derry  Protestants  as  the 
heart  of  one  man,  in  the  cause  of  his  assailed  truth, 
and  made  them  strong,  and  enabled  them  to  do 
exploits  the  very  mention  of  which  still  cheers  us  in 
this  day  of  rebuke  and  blasphemy — may  he  cement  in 
the  closest  bonds  of  mutual  love,  confidence,  zeal,  and 
holy  courage,  the  members  of  these  sister  churches, 
which  have  stood  together  so  long,  and  will  yet  stand, 
rejoicing  in  the  triumphs  of  his  truth,  and  in  the  over- 
throw of  his  enemies ! 


LETTER   XII. 


LONDONDERRY. 


Derry,  August,  1837. 
Here  I  am,  hemmed  in  by  the  maiden  walls  of  Derrj 
Sundry  misgivings  had  assailed  me,  lest  a  disappoint 
ment  in  highly  raised  expectations  might  cast  a  darmv 
where  all  was  disposed  to  glow  with  delight.     The 
dread  of  a  modernized  town  was  uppermost  ;  but  how 
vain  were  such  thoughts  !     1  am  revelling  in  the  full- 
est realization  of  the  vision  that  has  charmed  me  from 
childhood  :  and  if  I  can  succeed  in  giving  you  but  a 
faint  sketch  of  this  most  unique,  most  spirit-stirring 
spot,  you  will  say  there  is  good  reason  for  so  doing. 

But  I  suppose  you  will  expect  to  come  in  regularly 
by  the  mail,  according  to  promise  :  we  must  therefore 
return  to  Belfast.  After  an  early  breakfast,  our  kind 
friend  Mr.  M'C.  sent  us  to  the  coach ;  and  we  rapidly 
passed  through  the  still  tranquil  streets,  so  soon  to  be 
thronged  with  political  combatants  flocking  to  the 
hustings.  The  road,  bordered  on  the  left  by  high  and 
picturesque  hills,  commands  on  the  right  a  continued 
view  of  the  harbor,  or  lough,  a  beautiful  piece  of 
water,  bearing  many  a  tall  vessel  on  its  advancing 
tide  towards  the  quays.  We  had  one  fellow-traveller, 
a  lively,  pleasant  military  officer,  whose  recent  return 
from  foreign  duty  in  a  regiment  where  I  have  many 


LONDONDERRY.  279 

friends,  and  a  still  more  recent  recruiting  expedition 
among  the  Mourne  mountains^  afforded  subjects  of 
mutual  interest,  riot  lessened  by  an  equally  mutual 
love  for  Ireland.  The  road  is,,  in  some  places,  emi- 
nently beautiful,  adorned  with  rich  seats,  and  noble 
plantations.  At  Antrim  we  saw  one  of  the  fine  old 
round  towers  ;  and  soon  after  we  had  some  momentary 
glimpses,  through  openings  of  the  thick  plantations  of 
Shane's  Castle,  of  the  famous  Lough  Neagh,  the  pride 
of  Irish  lakes  ;  equalled  in  size  only  by  three  others 
throughout  Europe.  It  is  twenty  miles  in  length, 
fifteen  in  breadth,  receives  the  streams  of  six  large 
rivers,  and  includes  an  area  of  100,000  acres.  I  longed 
to  pause,  and  to  take  a  Purvey  of  this  inland  sea  ;  but 
mail  coaches  are  unfriendly  to  the  indulgence  of  such 
hankerings  after  the  picturesque,  and  had  not  the 
prospect  of  Derry  been  before  my  mind's  eye,  I  should 
have  regretted  abandoning  the  more  accommodating 
mode  of  private  travelling.  As  it  was,  I  could  only 
repeat  the  well-remembered  stanza  founded  on  one  of 
the  wild  legends  of  these  imaginative  people, 

"  On  Lough  Neagh's  bank  as  the  fisherman  strays 

When  the  clear  cool  eve's  declining, 
He  sees  the  round  towers  of  other  days 

In  the  wave  beneath  him  shining : 
Thus  shall  memory  often  in  dreams  sublime 

Catch  a  glimpse  of  the  days  that  are  over, 
Thus,  sighing,  look  through  the  waves  of  time 

For  the  long  faded  glories  they  cover." 

And  this  I  had  to  write  down  in  pencil  for  my  fellow- 
traveller,  so  much  did  it  please  his  fancy.     At  Bally 
money,  to  our  sincere  regret,  this  gentleman's  jour- 
ney terminated,  his  recruiting  party  being  stationed 


280  LETTER  XII. 

near  it ;  and  we  bade  him  a  very  reluctant  farewell. 
Independent  of  the   pleasure   one    always   enjoys  iq 
polished,  intellectual  society,  wc  had  derived  so  much 
information  from  bis  exact  knowledge  of  the  places 
through   which    our    route   lay,    that    it   was  doubly 
a  lqss.     But  this  is  Jreland,  as  I  had  no  reason  to  for- 
get;  a  very  gentlemanly  youth,  an  outside  passenger, 
overhearing  me  express  something  of  the  latter  cause 
of  lamentation,  without  saying  a  word  about  it  took 
the  vacant    place,  and    most   obligingly   told    us  the; 
name,  history,  and  local  associations  connected  with 
each  spot ;  regretting  that  he  was  going  no  farther 
himself  than  Coleraine.     I  love  to  record  these  little 
instances  of  a  courtesy  that  is  absolutely  inherent  in, 
these  Irishmen.     The  quiet  watchfulness,  or  whatever, 
you  please  to  term  it,  by  which  they  contrive  to  anti- 
cipate whatever  wish  a  stranger  might  form  as  to  an 
increase  of  his   comforts,   and   the   easy,  unaffected, 
unostentatious  manner  of  showing  kindness,   which 
enhances  the  value  while  it  precludes  an  oppressive 
sense  of  the  obligation — this  is  what  throws  such  ^ 
charm  over  Irish  society,  whether  during  a  lengthened 
domestication  under  the  hospitable  roof,  or  an  hour's 
casual  acquaintance  in  a  stage-coach.     When  I  meet 
with  an  English  traveller  whose  experience  does  not 
tally  with  mine,  I  am  sure  that  he  has  to  thank  his 
own    impenetrable   reserve,  want    of  frankness,   and 
good-humor,  or  else  an  insulting  appearance — I  may 
say  affectation — of  contempt  for  the  people  and  their 
country.     Not  a  day  has  passed  since  our  landing  inj 
Waterford,  in  the  course  of  which  I  have  not  experi- 
enced   some    practical   illustration    of  that  beautiful 
injunction,  "  Brethren,  by  love  serve  one  another." 


LONDONDERRY.  281 

Coleraine  is  a  substantial  town,  with  a  very  fine 
sheet  of  water,  the  Bann  river,  flowing  through, 
or  rather  past  it.  Here  too  we  found  all  the  bustle 
and  excitement  of  an  election  going  on,  with  indica- 
tions of  very  turbulent  feelings  on  the  part  of  those 
whom  Dr.  Blake  would  distinguish  as  "  dear  Chris- 
tians j"  which  in  his  parlance  means^  bibbers  of  whis- 
key, and  breakers  of  heads.  Newton-Limavady,  with 
its  long  street,  succeeded ;  this  was  one  of  the  garri- 
soned places  that  held  out  against  the  rebels,  in  1641 5 
and  it  bore  an  important  relationship  to  Derry  during 
the  memorable  epoch  of  the  defence.  At  this  place 
my  young  companion  chose  to  mount  the  outside  of 
the  coach,  leaving  me  with  an  humble  fellow-traveller, 
an  elderly  domestic  of  a  noble  family,  who  had  already 
exhausted  her  little  stock  of  information  in  the  details 
of  a  death  and  a  marriage,  and  the  present  state  of 
her  venerable  master's  gouty  foot.  I  knew  enough  of 
the  family  to  take  some  interest  in  what  it  gratified 
her  to  tell. 

The  region  on  which  we  had  last  entered  was  wild 
and  barren  ;  a  sort  of  moorland,  swelling  and  falling  5 
while  now  and  then  the  indistinct  outline  of  some 
object  of  which  I  could  not  decide  whether  it  was  a 
cloud  or  a  mountain,  appeared  on  the  horizon,  over- 
topping the  irregular  hills  that  skirted  our  left.  To 
the  right,  I  knew  we  were  not  very  far  from  the  sea ; 
in  fact  we  had  enjoyed  at  one  point  a  fine  view  of  it 
near  Coleraine,  and  were  within  a  few  miles  of  the 
Giant's  Causeway.  On  that  side,  I  was  watching 
what  I  thought  a  very  lovely  lake,  with  a  mountain 
barrier,  and  hoping  every  minute  to  obtain  a  sight  of 
its  boundaries,  by  passing  one  end  ;  but  in  this  I  was 
24  * 


282  LETTER    XII. 

disappointed ;  the  water  still  kept  us  at  a  distance,  it 
was  still  to  the  right,  a  little  in  front,  and  a  most  pic- 
turesque crag  that  abruptly  terminated  the  lofty  line 
of 'hills  on  our  side,  and  thus  left  a  comparative  level 
between  us  and  the  lough,  receded  more  and  more  as 
we  advanced.  This  showed  that  we  were  in  some 
measure  following  the  course  of  the  water,  on  which  I 
kept  my  eyes  fixed,  wondering  when  we  should  pass 
its  southern  extremity  ;  and  conceding  to  it  the  palm, 
as  far  as  a  noble  boundary  went,  over  all  the  lakes  I 
had  yet  seen.  The  long,  regular,  undulating  line  of 
mountain  tops  on  the  farther  side  seemed  endless  ; 
and  while  watching  the  rippling  of  its  tide,  I  was 
startled  at  seeing  a  distant  sail  on  their  bosom. 
Could  it  be  1  I  presently  thrust  my  head  out  at  the 
window,  and  received  from  the  coach-box  a  confirm- 
ation of  the  half-formed  guess — Yes,  it  was  Lough 

FOYLE. 

Just  then  the  coach  stopped  to  change  horses,  and 
a  minute's  interval  saw  me  mounted  on  its  highest 
seat.  None  but  the  coachman,  the  guard,  and  W. 
remained  ;  and  behind  the  latter^  who  sat  with  the 
coachman,  I  chose  my  station,  making  little  of  the 
shower  that  impended,  while  mine  eye  truly  affected 
my  heart  as  I  looked  on  the  grand  liquid  thoroughfare 
so  passionately  coveted  by  Popish  James,  as  a  medium 
of  communication  between  his  Irish  adherents  and 
their  disaffected  brethren  in  Scotland,  so  obstinately 
withheld  from  him  by  the  heroic  defenders  of  Derry. 
Yes,  there  was  the  Foyle,  upon  which  the  dying  gaze 
of  many  a  famished  Protestant  had  been  fixed,  in  vain 
hope  of  the  supplies  cruelly  detained  by  the  inhuman 
Kiike:  the  Foyle,  whose  flowing  tide  had  borne  the 


LONDONDERRY.  283 

Mountjoy  upon  the  boom,  and,  held  in  the  hand  of 
the  Lord,  had  broken  the  fetter  of  Popery  from  the 
necks  of  three  kingdoms.  Oh,  for  a  pen  that  could 
write  my  feelings  as  my  looks  devoured  that  object, 
and  feasted  upon  the  stately  ridge  of  those  Ennis- 
howen  mountains !  At  that  time,  both  guard  and 
coachman  were  below,  and  the  single  horse  which 
had  been  put  to  appeared  a  little  restive :  I  happened 
just  then  to  glance  towards  it ;  and  the  poor  ragged 
fellow  who  was  holding  the  bit,  catching  my  eye, 
exclaimed  with  a  look  of  most  affectionate  concern, 
"Darling  lady,  don't  be  at  all  alarmed — he's  as  quiet 
as  a  lamb."  "  Darling  Paddy,"  thought  I,  in  return, 
"  may  the  Lord,  who  even  here  wrought  so  wondrous- 
ly  to  deliver  your  land  from  the  thraldom  of  Anti- 
christ, shed  the  light  of  his  glorious  Gospel  into  your 
heart,  into  your  cabin,  and  through  every  corner  of 
your  own  sweet  isle  !"  As  to  being  alarmed,  in  the 
then  state  of  my  feelings,  they  might  have  yoked  wild 
horses  for  me,  provided  they  kept  their  heads  towards 
Derry. 

The  road  now  had  become  exceedingly  good,  the 
country  well  cultivated,  and  numerous  vehicles  rat- 
tled past  us,  the  drivers  announcing  with  merry 
cheers  that  Sir  R.  Ferguson  was  elected.  Our  coach- 
man was  evidently  not  elated  by  the  news  ;  and  as  I 
knew  Sir  Robert  to  be  what  is  called  a  liberal,  I 
hoped  to  find  his  dissatisfaction  arose  from  the  same 
source  as  my  own.  No  such  thing:  Coachee  was  a 
staunch  Romanist,  and  one  of  the  most  unreserved  cha- 
racter too.  He  not  only  communicated  to  us  his 
religious  faith  and  political  creed,  but  assured  me 
that  the  events  of  1688  consisted  in  a  rebellion  of  the 


284  LETTER  xir. 

English  settlers,  headed  by  Martin  Luther,  against 
King  James  5  and  that  the   Irish  were  defeated  by 
William  of  Orange  bringing  a  great  army  over  to  help 
the  rebels.     I,  of  course,  gave  no  direct  contradiction, 
only  remarking  that  I  thought  Martin  Luther  must 
then  have  been  dead  for  some  time,  as  he  lived  in  the 
reign  of  King  Henry  VIII. ;  and  with  regard  to  the 
siege  of  Derry,  that  the  French  rather  than  the  Irish 
prosecuted  it  j  and  the  Derry  people  had  done   good 
service  to  the  country  by  not  giving  it  over  to  foreign 
enemies.     No,   he    assured    me,    there    was    hot   a 
Frenchman  in  Ireland  at   the  time.     Yes,  I  persisted 
I  could  show  him  in  history  books  that  it  was  Conrad 
de   Rosen,  a  French  marshal^  who   drove   the   poor 
harmless  Protestants  from  the  neighboring  counties 
to  starve  under  the  walls  of  Derry ;  and  that  it  very 
much  shocked  the  Irish  army,  who  were  treated  quite 
impertinently  by  their  French  allies.     "  Oh,"  said  he, 
with  a  most  commiserating  look,  "you  have  bad  me- 
mories"    A  very  courteous  way,  you  must  allow,  of 
taxing   my   veracity ;    but   I   was    not    discomfited. 
"  Sure  now,"  I  resumed,  "  it  is  not  my  memory  I  am 
depending  on :  how  should  I,  when  1  was  not  born  at 
the  time,  nor  you,  nor   our  fathers  before   us  1     We 
have  books  printed  in  that  same  year,  and  they  tell 
ns  all  about  it."     With  a  very  knowing  look  cast  over 
his  shoulder,  he  observed,  "  Them  books  were  writ- 
ten by  Luther  and  his  people  ;  but  St.  Patrick  gives  a 
different   story."     "Was    St.    Patrick   there!"     He 
Was,  or  else  St.  Columbkill ;  I'll  show  you  his  chapel 
presently."     "  Now,"  said  I,  "  if  St.  Patrick  and  Lu- 
ther had  both  been  there,  I'll  engage  it  was  on  the 
one  side  they  stood  $  for  they  taught  the  same  doc- 


LONDONDERRY.  285 

trine."  This  bold  assertion  seemed  to  confound  him ; 
but  an  energetic  shake  of  the  head,  and  another,  "  Oh, 
you  have  bad  memories,"  was  all  that  escaped  him. 
I  proceeded  to  relate  that  when  Patrick  came  over, 
he  found  the  ancient  Irish  quite  heathens,  worship- 
ping stocks  and  stones;  that  he  brought  them  the 
blessed  Bible,  told  them  that  it  was  there  they  would 
find  the  will  of  God  made  known  ;  and  by  preaching 
what  was  in  that  book,  he  brought  them  to  believe  on 
Jesus  Christ ;  and  now  those  who  keep  the  Bible  keep 
the  religion  that  Patrick  brought  here.  "  Oh,  it's  all 
wrong  !"  says  coachee,  and  began  to  appear  sulky. 
I  had  kept  a  sharp  look-out  right  in  front,  as  he  told 
me  when  I  remounted  the  coach  that  Derry  was 
straight  before  us.  I  now  happened  to  turn  to  the 
left,  and  far  away  I  saw  a  spire  on  elevated  ground, 
with  one  of  the  sun's  last  rays  resting  upon  it. 
"  What  is  that  V  I  asked,  pointing  to  it.     "  Derry." 

Our  road  had  curved  a  little,  which  occasioned  this 
surprise.  The  broad,  beautiful  Foyle,  grew  broader 
and  brighter  as  we  approached,  and  the  sky  cleared 
up.  "  Now,"  said  the  coachman,  whose  pride  or 
something  else  was  gratified  by  the  tone  in  which  I 
repeated  "  Derry  !"  with  some  epithet  of  endearment 
prefixed — "  now  I  will  show  you  where  the  boom  was 
put  across  the  water.  You  see  the  fellows  laid  a 
great  bar  of  wood,  as  thick  as  that  horse's  body,  from 
one  side  of  the  Fqyle  to  the  other,  to  hinder  the  ships 
from  coming  up  to  the  town  :  but  for  all  that,"  he 
added  with  much  glee,  "  they  cracked  it  in  two,  and 
the  place  was  relieved."  "  Was  not  that  a  great 
exploit  V  asked  I.  "  Sure  it  was — you  never  heard 
a   more  wonderful  thing."     It  was  evident  that  his 


286  LETTER    XII.  . 

Derryism  was  stronger  here  than  even  his  Popery } 
and  I  sighed  to  think  how  times  were  changed  m  a 
few  years,  since  the  Romish  titular  himself  in  his 
pontificals  used  to  lead  his  flock  in  the  procession, 
swell  the  shout  of  "  No  surrender,"  and  toss  off  a 
Dumper  to  the  glorious  memory.  This  is  a  fact* 
until  the  baneful  spirit  of  so-called  conciliation  roused 
in  their  bosoms  the  hope  of  recovering  their  ascend- 
ency, vast  numbers  of  the  Romanists  voluntarily  wore 
the  badge  which  is  now  denounced,  under  pretence 
of  hurting  their  feelings  !  The  coachman  pointed  out 
the  memorable  spot,  and  on  a  beautiful  little  island, 
just  in  sight,  he  showed  me  the  ruins  of  Columbkill's 
chapel ;  then  continued  his  discourse,  giving  a  history 
of  the  miracles  performed  by  Columbkill  and  his  suc- 
cessors ;  with  a  story  concerning  a  false  disciple,  that 
equalled,  for  the  extravagant  absurdity  of  its  details, 
the  most  open  burlesque  I  ever  met  with.  My  heart 
was  moved  for  this  poor  Irishman  :  I  longed  to  enter 
fully  on  the  subject  so  important  to  his  peace  ;  but 
we  were  almost  at  the  bridge,  which  lay  a  perfect 
level  above  that  noble  water  ;  while  before  us  rose 
the  town,  covering  a  lofty  hill,  on  the  apex  of  which 
stood  the  cathedral ;  and  just  on  the  bank  where  we 
were  passing  was  an  old  grey  stone,  pointed  out  with 
great  eagerness  by  the  coachman,  as  "St.  Columb's 
well.'*  He  then,  with  much  feeling,  suddenly  said, 
"  It  is  a  pleasure  to  talk  with  ye  :  many  a  gentleman 
have  I  told  these  things  to,  and  they  always  laughed 
in  my  face,  and  treated  me  like  a  fool.  You  have 
not  laughed  at  me — there  are  few  like  you."  I  was 
about  to  make  an  affectionate  reply,  but  all  his  atten- 
tion was  demanded  to  his  horses :  he  wheeled  them 


LONDONDERRY.  287 

—we  were  on  the  bridge — the  firm  boards  lay  beneath. 
us,  the  noble  Lough  on  the  right,  the  city  in  front, 
with  the  river  circling  round  it,  and  in  a  minute  I  was 
under  the  wall — the  lofty,  dark,  impregnable  wall  of 
Derry,  beneath  which  we  wound  for  a  short  space, 
and  then  alighted  at  the  Ship  Quay,  where  the  vessels 
landed  their  welcome  stores  in  1689.  Matters  were 
soon  arranged  at  the  office.  "Where  is  Brown's 
hotel  V  "  Oh,  just  through  the  gate :  we'll  carry 
your  luggage  in  a  moment."  So,  after  thanking  the 
coachman  and  guard  for  their  civilities — an  accom- 
paniment that  in  their  eyes  trebles  the  value  of  the 
money  given, — I  walked,  with  as  light  a  heart  as 
ever  beat,  after  the  porters,  and  entered  the  fortress, 
passing  the  Ship  Quay  gateway,  and  feeling  in  every 
fibre  of  my  frame  that  at  last  I  was,  indeed,  really 
and  bodily,  within  the  walls  of  Derry. 

Brown's  hotel  is  but  a  little  way  up  the  street  on 
the  right  hand ;  fully  meriting  the  good  character  that 
Inglis  has  bestowed  on  it.  Here,  instead  of  the  friend 
whom  I  expected  to  meet  and  to  escort  me  eighteen 
miles  further  beyond  Letterkenny,  I  found  a  note,  ap- 
prising me  that  he  was  obliged  to  start  for  Dublin,  in 
consequence  of  the  City  and  University  elections,  and 
would  not  be  back  for  some  days :  at  the  same  time 
telling  me  how  to  proceed.  I  bespoke  apartments  at 
the  hotel,  and  flew  away  up  the  street  to  the  Diamond, 
but  not  without  encountering  on  the  way  a  person  on 
the  watch,  with  a  warm  invitation  from  the  aunt  of  my 
truant  friend,  who  lives  near  it.  Thither  I  promised 
to  repair,  but  the  temptation  was  irresistible,  and 
before  entering  her  house,  I  had  paced  the  ramparts 
half  round,  and  pressed  the  sod  that  lies  above  the 


288  LETTER   XII. 

heroic  defenders  in  the  Cathedral  grave-yatd.  Strati 
ger  as  I  was,  every  turn  of  the  place  was  so  familiar 
to  me,  that  I  confidently  led  the.  way,  and  named  the 
different  objects  to  my  wondering  companion,  as 
though  I  had  never  been  outside  the  walls.  This  done, 
we  repaired  to  the  house  of  the  kind  old  lady,  who 
threw  open  at  once  her  door  and  her  arms,  and  even 
wept  a  welcome.  Oh,  these  warm-hearted  Irish,  why 
cannot  I  live  and  die  among  them  ! 

I  had  literally  reckoned  without  my  host,  when  en- 
gaging the  rooms  at  a  hotel :  such  a  thing  was  not  to 
be  named,  not  to  be  thought  of.  My  domicil  was 
prepared  at  the  house  of  one  whom  I  had  not  yet  seeri, 
as  he  was  then  engaged  in  an  evening  lecture  ;  but  he 
soon  arrived,  and  it  did  not  require  much  rhetoric  to 
convince  me  that  I  must  needs  remain  for  four  or  five 
days  in  Derry.  You  may  accordingly  look  for  a  jour- 
nal, for  the  first  day  of  which  this  may  suffice.  We 
are  delightfully  housed  in  the  upper  part  of  Ship-quay 
street,  which  Inglis  truly  describes  as  one  of  the  steep- 
est in  Europe.  It  runs  in  a  perfectly  straight  line, 
from  Ship-quay  gate  to  the  Diamond ;  the  ascent  is 
indeed  such  that  the  house-tops  resemble  a  flight  of 
stairs,  each  being  necessarily  so  much  elevated  above 
its  predecessor.  This  is  not  very  far  from  Brown's 
hotel,  yet  I  should  think  the  ground-floor  is  at  least 
on  a  level  with  his  attics.  Of  the  prospect  I  can  say 
nothing,  for  it  was  dark  when  I  came  here  :  but  this  I 
know,  I  am  in  the  walls  of  the  ancient  fortress  of 
Protestantism,  and  with  mingled  feelings  I  review  the 
past,  contrasting  it  with  the  present,  and  questioning  as 
to  the  future.  My  consolation  is  that  still,  u  The  Lord 


LONDONDERRY.  289 

roigneth,"  even  Jesus  Christ,   "  the  same  yesterday, 
to-day  and  for  ever." 

Wednesday. 

A  day  to  be  remembered  ;  for  the  Lord's  former 
mercies  have  been  made  to  pass  in  review  before  me, 
with  a  vividness  that  infuses  new  life  into  the  hope 
too  easily  sickened.  I  rose  this  morning  refreshed  in. 
body  and  elate  in  spirits,  longing  to  look  around  me. 
On  first  meeting  my  kind  host,  he  presented  me  with 
a  valuable  gift,  the  half  of  a  cannon  ball,  found  fast 
wedged  in  the  walls  of  an  old  house,  taken  down  a 
few  years  since,  where  it  had  been  lodged  and  broken 
by  coming  in  contact  with  some  yet  harder  substance. 
I  could  not  but  think,  When  contemplating  this  me- 
mento, of  the  promise,  "  No  weapon  that  is  formed 
against  thee  shall  prosper."  It  was  remarkably  ful- 
filled during  the  siege,  and  while  I  live  I  shall  treasure 
the  broken  missile  of  a  baffled  foe.  Notwithstanding 
the  unfavorable  state  of  the  weather,  raining  oft 
and  heavily,  I  have  enjoyed  a  vast  deal  out  of  doors. 
At  eleven  o'clock  wTe  repaired  to  the  cathedral,  where 
service  is  celebrated  on  Wednesday  and  Friday  morn- 
ings ;  and  thither  I  went  with  joyful  feet,  carrying  the 
cannon-ball  in  my  handkerchief,  that  1  might  be  the 
more  stirred  up  to  bless  the  Lord,  and  not  to  forget 
his  benefits. 

Before  describing  the  church,  I  should  give  you  a 
sketch  of  the  tovvn,  by  which  I  understand  Derry 
within  the  walls.  It  does,  in  fact,  stretch  out  to  a 
great  extent  beyond  them  ;  but  the  spot  so  exquisitely 
interesting  to  the  Protestant  is  bounded  by  these 
venerable  bulwarks.  You  must  first  imagine  a  figure 
nearly  resembling  that  of  an  arched  door,  the  bottom 
25 


290  LETTER    XII. 

or  straight  line  of  which  lies  duly 'north-east,  looking 
down  Lough  Foyle.  The  outline  is  rendered  rather 
angular  by  the  bastions,  which  you  know  are  projec- 
tions carried  out  to  admit  of  guns  being  so  placed  as 
to  send  their  shot  externally  across  the  gates,  thus 
covering  them  from  an  assailing  enemy.  A  wall,  em- 
bracing the  town,  inclusive  of  the  bastions,  runs  quite 
round  without  an  interval ;  this  is  in  most  places  just 
high  enough  to  allow  a  tall  man  to  lay  his  arms  com- 
fortably at  the  top,  and  lean  on  them :  the  depth  on 
the  outside  is  twenty-four  feet.  Parallel  with  this 
wall  runs  another,  rising  about  a  foot  or  two  above 
the  rampart,  and  descending  to  the  street.  Thus  the 
rampart  or  mound  of  earth  is  built  in  by  both,  and  be- 
ing in  no  place  less  than  twelve  feet  wide,  beautifully 
kept  like  a  garden  walk,  it  furnishes  the  most  com- 
modious and  delightful  mall  imaginable.  There  is  no 
break  in  its  continuance  :  it  passes  over  the  archway 
of  each  gate,  and  is  reached  by  easy  flights  of  stone 
steps  from  the  street  at  short  intervals.  Each  bastion, 
of  course,  adds  an  open  space  to  the  ramparts,  grass- 
grown,  where  the  children  play,  servants  beat  their 
carpets,  or  solitary  loungers  recline  on  the  walls.  The 
only  place  where  the  street  does  not  run  along  the 
rampart,  is  that  occupied  by  the  cathedral-ground ; 
there  a  handsome  iron  railing  is  added  to  the  inner 
wall,  while  the  outer  one  rises  to  a  considerable  height, 
screening  the  sacred  edifice  from  the  aim  of  hostile 
batteries  in  that  direction.  To  understand  the  appear- 
ance of  the  town,  you  must  imagine  a  spacious  square 
very  nearly  in  the  centre,  the  middle  of  which  is  oc- 
cupied by  the  town-hall,  formerly  the  guard-house 
whence  the  Boys  snatched  the  keys  on  the  memora- 


LONDONDERRY. 


291 


ble  7th  of  December ;  from  this  draw  four  perfectly- 
straight  lines  forming  a  cross,  and  you  have  to  the 
north-east  Ship-quay  street,  terminating  in  the  gate  of 
the   same   name  :  to   the   south-west  Bishop's   street, 
with  Bishop's  gate  at  the  end  :  to  the  south-east  Ferry- 
quay  street,  ending  at  the  famous  gate  which  was  first 
shut  in  the  face  of  Lord  Antrim's  regiment ;  and  to  the 
north-west  Butcher's  street,  with  its  gate,  where  the 
Protestants,    driven  by  De  Rosen,  lay  perishing  for 
three  days  in  the  sight  of  the  famished  garrison.     All 
these  are  wide  handsome  streets,  with  excellent  shops 
and  private  dwellings.     At  the  bend  of  the  supposed 
arch    between    Bishop's    and    Ferry    Gates,    is    the 
Cathedral :  and    on  the    opposite    side    the   Bishop's 
house  and  garden.     The  main  thoroughfares  are  inter- 
sected at  some  points  by  others,  but  with  such  mathe- 
matical precision,  that  1  have  not  succeeded  in  detect- 
ing anything  but  rigid  straight  lines  within  the  curve 
of  that   which   follows  the   course    of  the    ramparts. 
The   most  singular  feature,   however,  is  the  size  of 
this  strong-hold.     Its  extreme  width  from  gate  to  gate 
is  considerably  less  than   the  length  of  the   wooden 
bridge  that  crosses  the  river  below  ;  and  the  line  from 
Ship-quay  to  Bishop's  Gate,  where  the  town  is  longest, 
does  not  nearly  double  the  width.     It  is  impossible 
not  to  be  struck  with  the  justness  of  William's  remark ; 
speaking  the  words  of  worldly  wisdom  only,  he  ex- 
claimed on  first  beholding  it^  that  if  there  had  been  a 
single    soldier  either   without   or  within  the  walls,  it 
could  not  have  stood  a  day's  siege  :  so  helplessly  ex- 
posed it  looks  from  without,  so  hopelessly  untenable 
within,  and  every  way   so  narrow,  so  confined.     De 
Rosen's  burst  of  angry  contempt  was  equally  natural, 


292  LETTER  XII. 

when,  on  seeing  the  mighty  fortress,  to  reduce  which 
he  had  been  sent  on  a  long  and  difficult  march,  he 
swore  he  would  make  his  soldiers  fetch  it  to  him, 
stone  by  stone.  No  perusal  of  the  history,  no  de- 
scription, however  vivid  and  minute,  can  give  you  an 
adequate  idea  of  the  wonders  of  that  eight  months 
defence,  but  see  the  place,  and  you  will  be  constrained 
to  exclaim,  "  Surely  this  was  the  Lord's  doing,  and  it 
is  marvellous  in  our  eyes." 

The  next  thing  to  be  noted  is  the  superlative  beauty 
of  the  situation.  The  hill  rises  to  an  elevation  of  1  19 
feet,  and  it  is  impossible  to  say  from  what  point  the 
most  enchanting  scenery  may  be  commanded.  Ex- 
cepting where  the  noble  Lough  stretches  out  towards 
the  sea,  there  is  a  fine  swell  of  the  ground  on  every 
side,  most  richly  cultivated  in  corn-fields,  flax,  and 
pasturage,  with  many  extensive  pleasure-grounds,  ele- 
gant villas,  and  plantations  sloping  to  the  water's 
edge.  The  western  bank  is  fenced,  as  I  told  you,  by 
the  lofty  range  of  Ennishowen  mountains,  between 
which  and  the  Lough  are  many  splendid  seats  of  pri- 
vate gentlemen.  The  other  side  is  exceedingly  irre- 
gular and  picturesque,  being  a  mixture  of  island, 
isthmus,  bay,  and  promontory,  all  in  miniature,  with 
pretty  white  mansions  peeping  through  a  wilderness  of 
shrubs.  Beyond  the  bridge,  Foyle,  as  a  majestic 
river,  sweeps  gracefully  round  the  hill's  base,  the  op- 
posite ground  being  planted  by  its  occupiers,  and 
decorated  in  all  the  varieties  that  taste  could  plan, 
and  afliuence  accomplish.  The  city  without  the  walls 
covers  a  great  extent  of  ground,  but  I  cannot  fix  my 
attention  upon  it  at  all.  Derry  as  it  was  of  old,  is 
everything  to  me  ;  and  follow  as  I  may  the  guidance 


LONDONDERRY.  293 

that  bids  me  look  on  this  building  and  on  that,  my 
fancy  presently  transforms  them  into  batteries,  forts, 
and  all  the  etcetera  of  a  hostile  encampment  belea- 
guering the  town. 

It  is  now  time  to  conduct  you  to  the  Cathedral, 
which,  notwithstanding  sundry  trifling  appendages, 
such  as  turrets,  battlements,  and  a  huge  cross,  with 
a  fine  spire  of  stone  replacing  the  old  wooden  one,  is 
still  the  same  Cathedral  where  the  little  flock,  hem- 
med in  by  hordes  of  ravening  wolves,  while  destitute 
of  the  meat  which  perisheth,  daily  assembled  to  crave 
at  the  hands  of  their  pastors  that  which  nourisheth  to 
eternal  life.  This  is  the  building  where  not  a  pane 
of  glass  was  left  unbroken  by  the  enemy's  shot,  while 
the  stedfast  hearts  that  were  here  lifted  up  in  prayer 
to  the  God  of  heaven,  derived  new  strength  and  reso- 
lution for  the  defence  of  his  cause  upon  earth.  His 
cause  it  indubitably  was  :  as  such  they  maintained 
it,  and  as  such  he  accepted,  owned,  and  crowned, 
with  a  marvellous  deliverance  and  ultimate  triumph, 
their  self-immolating  devotion.  The  interior  of  the 
cathedral  is  like  that  of  our  larger  parish  churches, 
to  which  it  is  also  assimilated  in  the  Protestant  sim- 
plicity and  sobriety  of  its  public  worship.  Here  is  no 
chanting  of  confessions  and  supplications  to  musical 
notes ;  no  set-out  of  surpliced  boys,  to  sing  mechani- 
cal praises,  and  amuse  themselves  during  the  rest  of 
the  time.  The  establishment  consists  of  a  Rector 
(the  Dean)  and  three  curates,  who  alternately,  through 
God's  grace,  "pray  the  prayers,  read  the  lessons,  and 
preach  the  sermon.51 

On  entering  the  church,  the  first  thing  that  strikes 
you  is  the  simplicity  of  the  edifice  $  lofty  and  spa- 
25* 


294>  LETTER  XII. 

cious,  well  lighted  and  handsomely  fitted  up,  it  still  pre- 
sents an  aspect  of  that  sober  plainness,  the  reverse  of 
which  would  be  intolerable  in  a  place  so  fraught  with 
the  most  solemn  and  affecting  reminiscences.  The 
pews  are  of  oak,  large  and  well  arranged  ;  on  the  left, 
as  you  proceed  up  the  chancel,  is  the  Mayor's  seat, 
handsomely  hung,  with  the  ancient  arms  of  London- 
derry curiously  wrought  on  the  back.  The  Bishop's 
seat,  or  throne,  is  elegant,  covered  with  purple  vel- 
vet ;  and  there  are  pews  suitably  set  apart  for  the 
Dean,  Corporation,  and  other  public  functionaries. 
The  reading-desk  stands  on  the  right  hand,  and  the 
pulpit  is  centrally  placed,  facing  the  door :  behind  it 
is  the  east  window  of  an  imposing  size,  of  plain  glass, 
needing  no  ornament  to  enhance  those  which  I  am 
about  to  describe.  On  the  downward  slope  of  the 
window  sill,  an  inscription  is  cut,  containing  a  spirited, 
sketch  of  the  main  particulars  of  the  siege,  written  as 
it  seems  immediately  after  it,  and  relating  on  what 
occasion  the  accompanying  flags  were  captured  by 
the  besieged.  These  flags  are  now  reduced  to  the 
least  possible  fragments  depending  from  the  staffs, 
still  perfect,  which  are  secured  to  the  wall,  and  made 
to  incline  towards  the  communion  table.  I  must 
leave  it  entirely  to  your  imagination,  to  conceive  with 
what  emotions  I  gazed  on  these  precious  memorials 
of  poor  Ireland's  deliverance  :  for  though  the  battle 
of  the  Boyne  struck  the  decisive  blow,  yet,  humanly 
speaking,  it  was  to  the  previous  defence  of  Derry  that 
William  owed  the  opportunity  of  gaining  that  or  any 
other  battle.  The  act,  too,  was  purely  defensive; 
which  strips  it  of  the  revolting  unchristian  features 
of  aggressive  warfare  j  and  I  felt  as  I  looked  upon 


LONDONDERRY.  295 

the  trophies,  that  the  house  whence  the  united  suppli- 
cations of  his  people  continually  entered  into  the 
ear  of  the  Lord  God  of  Sabaoth,  was  the  fittest  place 
for  depositing  the  memorials  of  his  gracious  answer. 
It  was  not  until  after  the  morning  service  that  I 
allowed  myself  to  examine  these  things :  my  first 
duty,  my  dearest  privilege  was  to  fall  low  before  the 
Lord,  to  thank  him  for  past  mercies ;  and  remember- 
ing the  years  of  the  right  hand  of  the  Most  High,  to 
ask  in  confident  faith  for  the  continued  repetition  of 
those  mercies.  I  never  prayed  with  such  fervency 
for  the  native  race  of  Ireland,  the  victims  of  Popery, 
as  when  kneeling  in  Derry  Cathedral,  with  the  cannon 
ball  before  me  which  their  fathers,  under  the  influence 
of  their  church,  fired  against  the  fortress  of  Protes- 
tantism. I  prayed  that  the  day  might  speedily  arrive 
when,  under'that  very  roof,  they  should  press  to  hear 
the  glad  tidings  of  salvation  by  faith  alone,  through 
the  blood  of  a  crucified  Redeemer.*  We  then  took  a 
minute  survey  of  the  edifice,  inspected  the  old  regis- 
ters, bearing  the  memorable  date,  and  finally  mounted 
the  church  roof,  which  supported  two  cannons  during 
the  siege  ;  and  thence,  by  no  very  easy  ascent,  up  a 
perpendicular  iron  ladder  to  the  steeple. 

*  This  was  in  August,  1837.  During  the  season  of  Lent,  1838, 
the  pious  and  zealous  clergyman  of  Derry  cathedral  engaged  in  a 
course  of  controversial  sermons  on  the  points  at  issue  between 
the  church  of  Christ  and  popery.  Notwithstanding  the  prohibi- 
tion of  their  priests,  and  in  spite  of  every  effort  made  to  keep  them 
away,  by  prolonging  their  chapel  service,  &c,  the  poor  Romanists 
every  Sabbath  evening  flocked  to  the  cathedral,  and  there  stood, 
a  dense  crowd,  filling  every  part  of  the  building,  and  with  the 
utmost  attention  listening  to  the  word  of  life,  preached  in  direet 
and  avowed  refutation  of  their  errors.    This  hath  God  wrought ! 


296  LETTER    XII. 

And  here  I  beheld  the  fullest  confirmation  of  what 
I  had  never  doubted,  the  really  miraculous  character 
of  the  deliverance.  We  deliberately  traced,  on  the 
high  commanding  ground  that  surrounds  the  place, 
the  exact  position  of  every  corps,  battery,  and  single 
piece  of  ordnance,  by  means  of  an  authentic  plan 
which  my  kind  Derry  friend  sent  down  for  on  pur- 
pose. Had  the  spot  been  selected  as  that  which 
would  prove  the  most  hopelessly  untenable  of  all  the 
fortified  towns  in  Europe  under  the  modes  of  modern 
warfare,  none  would  have  blamed  the  choice*  Or. 
every  side  it  is  wholly  commanded,  insomuch  that 
the  ground  would  seem  to  have  been  originally  shaped 
for  that  purpose.  The  post  where  the  royal  standard 
was  disgraced,  together  with  the  person  of  the  un- 
happy monarch,  by  advancing  against  the  only  loyal 
fend  faithful  class  of  his  subjects,  and  then  making  a 
precipitate  retreat  at  the  first  discharge  from  the  walls, 
stands  conspicuously,  but  not  very  near,  on  the  bor- 
ders of  the  river  Foyle,  on  the  same  side  with  the 
town.  Thence  to  the  waters  of  the  Lough  a  contin- 
uous line  of  encampment  swept  along  the  hill  side, 
every  battery  having  the  full  range  of  the  city.  On 
the  opposite  shore,  the  line  was  again  taken  up,  and 
carried  round  until  it  met  the  river  which,  at  its  nar- 
rowest part,  was  in  fact  the  only  break  ;  for  the 
Lough  was  crossed  by  the  boom,  formed  of  the 
trunks  of  large  trees  chained  together  in  a  solid  mass, 
and  made  fast  to  either  bank.  I  was  really  awe-struck 
when  this  spectacle  lay  before  me  ;  and  when  I  look* 
ed  down  upon  the  little  enclosure  below,  when  1  con- 
sidered its  exposed  situation,  the  crowds  that  were 
pent  up  in  it,  the  havoc  committed  by  incessant  bom- 


LONDONDERRY.  297 

bard m en t,  those  terrible  missiles  exploding  in  every 
street,  the  wells  rendered  useless,  the  stores  exhaust- 
ed, raging  thirst,  gnawing  famine,  the  devouring;  pes- 
tilence,  the  number  and  rage  of  the  foes,  the  imprac- 
ticability of  summoning  friends  to  succour,  or  supplies 
to  save  them  from  perishing  of  want  ;  when  I  num- 
bered the  weeks  and  months  during  which  their  long- 
ing  looks  were  vainly  directed  towards  the  mouth  of 
the  Lough,  conscious  that  military  forces  and  abun- 
dant stores  were  hovering  there,  with  the  false  pro- 
mise of  an  approach  ;  i  know  not  which  prevailed, 
astonishment  at  their  endurance,  or  abhorrence  of  the 
base  ingratitude,  the  reckless  wickedness  of  the  pre- 
sent race  of  Protestants — falsely  so  called— through- 
out this  empire,  who  have  surrendered  without  a 
blow,  without  a  struggle,  the  citadel  of  our  national 
faith.  Surrendered  !  Yes,  I  stood  where  the  crim- 
son flag  had  waved  by  day,  and  the  beacon  of  distress 
had  blazed  by  night,  and  the  thousands  of  dead  had 
been  tolled  to  their  graves  beneath,  while  the  very 
breathing  of  that  word  surrender  was  punishable  with 
death !  I  stood  on  the  top  of  Derry  cathedral,  and 
felt  that  the  prize  for  which  they  struggled  even  to 
the  latest  gasp  of  agonized  mortality,  we  had  surren- 
dered. 

At  this  very  time,  Sir  Robert  Ferguson  was  being 
chaired.  I  tried  to  overlook  the  individual,  and  the 
cause  which  he  upholds  — the  surrender  cause^ — and  to 
realize  more  vividly  two  things:  the  diminutive  size 
of  the  town  through  every  street  of  which  we  traced 
the  cavalcade  in  an  exceedingly  short  time;  and  the 
small  number  of  persons  who  sufficed  to  crowd  it. 
Both  these  particulars   bore   strongly  on  the  subject 


298  LETTER   XII. 

that  engrossed  my  mind,  and  two  or  three  smart  show- 
ers of  rain  were  insufficient  to  drive  me  from  that  ex- 
posed but  indescribably  interesting  spot.  My  Rev. 
friend  indulged  me  with  a  longer  stay  than  I  had  dream- 
ed of:  alike  the  place  of  his  birth  and  of  his  ministra- 
tions, Derry  is  precious  in  his  sight,  and  as  a  true,  devot- 
ed Protestant  clergyman,  mourning  over  the  spiritual 
desolation  of  his  countrymen,  he  could  fully  participate 
in  my  feelings,  so  far  as  I  uttered  them  :  but  indeed 
many  of  them  defied  the  powers  of  speech  to  express. 
I  descended  from  that  hallowed  and  endeared  spot,  and 
with  a  swelling  heart  paced  among  the  graves  below, 
the  inmost  desire  and  prayer  of  my  soul  being  for 
grace  to  be  found  always  true  to  that  cause  in  which 
those  whose  ashes  lay  beneath  my  tread  had  been 
faithful  unto  death. 

Thursday. 
A  day  that  sets  at  defiance  the  services  of  clogs  and 
umbrellas.  A  torrent  is  sweeping  down  Ship-quay 
street,  and  I  must  remain  within,  which  I  contentedly 
do,  seeing  that  the  walls  of  Derry  are  still  round  me  ; 
and  many  interesting  subjects  occupy  my  thoughts.  A 
good  man,  a  scripture  reader,  has  been  telling  me  of 
his  work  among  the  poor  people  here  ;  but  I  found 
that  it  was  to  the  nominal  Protestants,  not  the  Roman 
ists,  he  took  his  message.  The  latter  he  seemed  to 
regard  as  unapproachable  ;  and  that  any  attempt  at 
instructing  them  must  necessarily  fail.  To  say  truth, 
there  is  too  much  of  that  impression  discernible  even 
among  pious  people  in  the  higher  classes  in  the  ex- 
treme north  ;  the  national  character  of  the  aborigines 
is  often  held  in  great  contempt,  and  an  idea  seems  pre- 


LONDONDERRY.  299 

valent  that  nothing  can  be  clone  with  them,  in  the  way 
of  reclamation.  On  inquiry,  however,  I  cannot  find 
one  who  has  been  personally  rejected  in  an  attempt  to 
give  them  instruction,  though  each  has  heard  from 
somebody  else  that  it  would  be  fruitless.  There  is  a 
growing  interest  excited  by  the  reports,  and  still  more 
by  the  actual  proceedings  of  the  Irish  Society,  who 
have  agents  among  the  mountains  of  Donegal  ;  and  I 
confidently  hope  to  see  the  work  proceeding  vigorously 
ere  long,  even  under  the  walls  of  Derry.  It  is  so  evi- 
dently the  policy  of  the  priesthood  to,  make  the  peo- 
ple savage,  in  order  to  discourage  our  attempts,  that 
there  is  no  judging  fairly  of  what  their  natural  charac- 
ters are.  Ardent  and  excitable  we  know  the  Irish  to 
be,  of  whatever  rank  or  creed  ;  and  when  on  such  a 
soil  is  carefully  sown,  from  early  infancy,  the  seeds  of 
ail  doctrinal  and  political  evil,  in  addition  to  the  na- 
tural produce  of  the  unrenewed  heart  of  man,  the 
marvel  is,  not  that  they  become  the  dangerous  beings 
we  find  them,  but  that  a  single  week  passes  over  with- 
out some  general  outbreak  of  the  mischief  so  sedu- 
lously formed  and  fostered  within.  God's  people  are 
now  thinking  on  the  scattered  stones  of  this  Irish 
Zion  j  it  pitieth  them  to  see  her  in  the  dust ;  they  are 
beginning  to  pray  earnestly  over  the  ruin ;  on  the 
strength  of  their  prayers  they  will  work  also — and  we 
shall  see  the  bright  days  of  Derry-Columbkilla  restored, 
through  the  seed  of  divine  truth  so  faithfully  preserved 
by  her  Protestant  children  in  1689. 

The  first  ecclesiastical  foundation  was  laid  here  by 
Columbkill,  about  the  year  54-6,  before  the  inventions 
of  Popery  had  obscured  the  pure  faith  taught  by  pri- 
mitive Christians.     Columb  was  a  native  of  Donegal, 


300  LETTER    XII. 

who  after  years  of  devotion  to  his  native  country, 
passed  over  to  the  Scottish  isle  of  Iona,  to  spread  the 
knowledge  of  Christ  among-  their  northern  neighbors, 
accompanied  by  a  party  of  his  disciples,  or  fellow  mis- 
sionaries. From  him  the  place,  origin;illy  named  Der- 
ry,  from  its  abound  ng  in  oaks;  which  that  word  in 
Irish  expresses,  received  the  additional  distinction  of 
her  apostolic  teacher's  name.  How  the  thick  cloud 
wafted  hither  from  Rome  obscured  her  sky,  it  is  need- 
less to  repfeat ;  or  again  to  dwell  on  the  agency  by 
which  she,  with  the  rest  of  Ireland;  Was  brought  alto- 
gether under  the  yoke  of  Antichrist.  Our  business  is 
not  to  brood  over  the  past,  but  to  seize  the  present, 
and  to  work  for  the  future  i  and  I  do  long  to  see  this 
glorious^  this  beautiful  spot  take  the  lead. 

We  have  been  discussing  the  project  of  the  Derry 
and  Raphee  clergymen,  who  seem  still  inclined  to 
hope  that  by  yielding  a  little  to  the  government  plan 
of  education,  they  may  gain  important  Concessions  on 
the  other  side.  Their  object  is  to  obtain  such  a  modi- 
fication as  shall  do  away  with  the  most  pernicious  part 
of  the  system.  But  they  are  prepared  to  give  place 
by  subjection,  no,  not  for  an  hour,  to  the  lying  spirits 
of  Popery  and  Socinianism  ;  therefore,  when  it  comes 
to  the  final  point,  they  will  be  disappointed.  On  these 
grounds  I  have  been,  and  still  am,  wholly  opposed  to 
the  experiment,  because  it  wears  the  aspect  of  a  com- 
promise where  none  really  is  thought  of;  at  least, 
not  by  any  with  whom  I  have  conversed.  We  remain 
mutually  possessed  of  and  strengthened  in  our  former 
opinions.     Time  will  decide. 

Yesterday  I  sallied  through  Butcher's  gate,  inquest 
of  a  relic,  but  did  not  go  far :  that  quarter,  called  tho 


LONDONDERRY.  301 

Bog-side,  is  the  counterpart  of  our  London  St.  Giles', 
and  inhabited  by  a  most  uncivilized  population.  I  did. 
not  explore  it,  but  learnt  much  from  others  concerning 
it.  Oh,  how  I  longed  for  time  and  opportunity  to 
make  a  regular  sally  through  that  gate  into  the  ene- 
my's camp,  after  the  fashion  of  1689,  armed  with  the 
sword  of  the  Spirit,  and  seconded  by  a  determined 
party  of  Irish-scripture  readers  !  That  is  the  precise 
spot  where  the  Protestants  perished^  who  were  driven 
under  the  walls  by  De  Rosen,  and  I  certainly  will  can- 
vas my  English  friends  when  I  return,  for  means  to 
attempt  what  I  allude  to.  The  blood  of  martyrs  has 
ever  been  the  seed  of  the  Church  ;  that  among  the 
sufferers  in  those  days  were  many  true  martyrs,  cheer- 
fully perilling  their  lives  for  Christ's  sake  and  the  gos- 
pel, is  indubitable  ;  Colonel  Mitchelburn's  will  gives 
evidence  so  far  as  words  can  do  it,  that  he  was  one  of 
that  spirit ;  and  I  will  not  be  satisfied  until,  over  the 
bones  of  these  slain,  the  blessed  gospel  is  received 
among  the  dwellers  in  the  cabins  of  Bog-side. 

In  the  court-house  I  saw  some  interesting  remains 
of  1688  ;  antique  metal  staves  borne  by  the  sheriff's 
officers  as  badges  of  their  authority,  and  an  ancient 
sword  of  state,  used  at  the  same  period.  It  is  not  a 
feeling  of  gratified  curiosity  that  the  sight  of  these 
things  produces.  I  could  weep  over  every  relic  of 
those  by-gone  days  of  firm,  unyielding  Protestantism  ; 
and  still  they  bid  me — I  cannot  help  repeating  again 
the  text — "  Remember  the  years  of  the  right  hand  of 
the  Most  High  ;"  furnishing  a  plea  for  renewed  mer- 
cies. It  is  one  of  the  evil  signs  of  our  day  that  men 
so  lightly  regard  the  memorials  of  their  fathers'  deli- 
verances :  that  such  ought  not  to  be  the  case  is  evi- 
26 


302  LETTER    XII. 

dent  from  the  scripture  ;  nay,  it  is  distinctly  named  as 
provoking  a  judgment  on  the  forgetful  generation.  We 
are  lapsing  with  fearful  rapidity  into  the  Laodicean 
state  of  lukewarm  profession,  and  unholy  self-confi- 
dence :  to  remain  in  it  is  to  disgust  the  Lord,  and 
insure  our  rejection.  Observe  how,  throughout  the 
Pentateuch,  the  Psalms,  and  the  Prophets,  the  mercies 
vouchsafed  to  their  fathers  are  made  the  main  argu- 
ments  in  the  mouths  of  God's  people,  pleading  for 
favor  towards  themselves;  and  in  how  striking  a  man* 
ner  the  Lord  himself  adduces  it  as  a  motive  for  stay- 
ing the  indignation  which  the  sinful  deeds  of  their 
descendants  provoked.  I  fear  a  heavy  charge  will  lie 
against  us  on  this  score,  little  as  it  seems  to  be 
considered  by  Christians,  either  individually  or  col* 
lectively. 

Saturday. 
One  of  the  most  interesting  gratifications  that  I 
have  enjoyed  was  afforded  yesterday,  in  being  allowed 
to  examine  the  communion-plate  belonging  to  the  ca- 
thedral. The  very  cup  that  was  so  often  pressed  to 
the  pale  lip  of  uncomplaining  fortitude — the  very 
salvers  that  held  the  morsel  of  sacramental  bread, 
when  none  other  was  left  in  the  grinding  famine — the 
very  plate  that  received  their  alms,  the  whole  amount 
of  which,  however  liberal,  could  but  have  purchased 
a  moiety  of  tallow,  starch,  and  dry  hides,  during  the 
latter  part  of  the  siege, — all  these  I  held  in  my  hands, 
while  the  scenes  that  rose  before  my  mental  eye  were 
almost  too  overpowering.  Oh,  they  knew  the  value 
of  that  faith  for  which  they  suffered ;  they  counted 
the  law  of  the  Lord's  mouth  not  only  dearer  to  them 


LONDONDERRY.  303 

than  thousands  of  gold  and  silver*  but  more  precious 
than  the  pulse  of  mortal  life  that  throbbed  so  feebly, 
yet  so  undauntedly  within :  they  knew,  by  terrible 
experience,  what  "a  famine  of  bread  and  a  thirst  of 
water"  was  ;  their  flesh  was  withering  like  grass,  their 
strength  drying  up  like  a  potsherd,  their  tongue  cleav- 
ing to  their  palates  through  its  blighting  intensity  ;  yet 
all  this  they  suffered  freely,  voluntarily,  perseveringly, 
unshrinkingly,  rather  than  that,  through  their  surren- 
der, we  should  endure  the  far  more  terrible ''famine 
of  hearing  the  words  of  the  Lord." 

I  thought  I  could  never  have  resigned  that  battered 
chalice  *  the  very  circumstance  of  its  being  the  cup — 
the  blessing  which  Rome,  in  her  profligate  audacity, 
would  presume  to  wrest  from  us,  and  replace  it  by  her 
own  loathsome  cup  of  abominations — rendered  it  the 
most  apt,  the  most  sacred,  the  most  thrilling  of  all 
possible  mementos.  I  doubt  not  that  it  was  so  regard- 
ed by  many  a  lowly  follower  of  Christ  in  those  days ; 
and  I  do  pity  the  person  who,  in  any  day,  can  raise 
that  cup  to  his  lip  in  Derry  cathedral,  without  a  secret 
and  solemn  act  of  self-dedication  to  the  cause  of 
Christ,  in  direct  opposition  to  the  work  of  Antichrist, 
who  dares,  concerning  the  cup  of  which  our  Lord 
commanded,  "Drink  ye  all  of  this,"  to  say  in  the  name 
of  that  Lord,  "  Touch  not,  taste  not,  handle  not." 
How  long  are  these  false  prophets  to  teach  and  seduce 
God's  poor  ignorant  people,  while  those  to  whom  he 
has  both  given  knowledge  and  committed  authority, 
look  on  in  acquiescence,  if  they  do  not  even  help 
forward  the  work  ? 

My  sojourn  terminates  to-day.  If  I  were  not  going 
to  visit  friends  whom  I  long  to  see,  and  a  place  to 


304  LETTER    XII. 

which  a  seven  years-  invitation  has  drawn  me,  I  should 
not  be  able  to  quit  Derry.  However,  it  is  arranged 
that  we  leave  Ireland  by  the  Foyle,  instead  of  return- 
ing to  Dublin  or  Belfast ;  so  that  I  shall  again  see  the 
maiden  city.  My  heart  cleaves  to  her  and  to  her  peo- 
ple ;  for  I  have  met  with  some,  of  both  sexes,  whose 
bosoms  crlow  with  the  sacred  fire  of  1688,  and  who,  if 
the  trial  came  again,  would  assemble  round  the  stand- 
ard of  their  faith,  the  Holy  Bible,  and  from  their  very 

souls  breathe    out  the    ancient    watchword    of    thcit 

i 

fortress — nq  surrender. 


LETTER    XIII. 

COUNTY  DONEGAL. 

Ballymacool,  JlugusU 
Although  I  cannot  say  that  I  never  before  knew  what 
grandeur  was,  having-  recently  left  the  mighty  hills  of 
Mourne,  yet  to  discover  the  charm  of  what  may  be 
called  savage  magnificence,  it  was  necessary  to  visit 
Donegal.  I  have  seen  wonders  within  the  last  few 
days  ;  but  before  proceeding  to  this,  I  must  take  leave 
of  Derry,  where  my  last  left  us.  Shall  I  relate  an 
event,  the  repetition  of  which  may  be  ascribed  to  in- 
corrigible vanity,  but  which  I  really  cannot  be  content 
to  withhold'?  You  know  the  famous  brotherhood  of 
the  "Apprentice  Boys  of  Derry,"  an  association  to 
which  honorary  members  are  admitted,  but  sparingly, 
and  none  who  are  not  considered  firm  in  cherishing 
and  upholding  the  sacred  principles  of  1688.  Many 
attempts  have  been  made  to  put  down,  by  indirect 
means,  this  enthusiastically  loyal  and  strictly  consti- 
tutional body,  but  in  vain.  By  a  recent  enactment,  all 
party  processions  were  prohibited  ;  but  as  the  uBoys" 
could  not  believe  a  celebration  in  which  the  Romish 
bishop,  priests,  and  people  formerly  took  an  active 
part  could  come  under  this  head,  they  had  the  teme- 
rity to  disregard  it,  and  walked  round  their  own  ram- 
26* 


306  LETTER    XIII. 

parts  as  usual,  on  the  anniversary  of  the  shutting  of 
the  gates,  two  years  ago. 

For  this  daring  act,  twenty  respectable  young  men, 
descended  from  the  original  defenders  of  the  fortress, 
were  arraigned  at  the  bar;  and  nine  of  them,  because 
they  would  not  plead  guilty  in  a  matter  which  they 
could  not  understand  to  be  legally  punishable,  were 
committed  to  the  common  gaol  for  a  fortnight.  This, 
by  the  way,  is  not  the  surest  mode  of  extinguishing  a 
flame  5  but  let  it  pass.  The  association  exists,  in  all 
its  pristine  vigor,  no  attempt  having  been  made  to  dis- 
solve it.  The  Marquis  of  Londonderry  is  an  honorary 
member,  as  are  many  of  the  first  gentlemen  in  Dublin 
and  elsewhere. 

The  car  that  was  to  convey  us  from  the  maiden 
.  city  stood  at  the  door,  and  I  was  anticipating  the  pain 
of  a  farewell  look  at  the  old  walls,  when  some  young 
men  of  this  formidable  fraternity  made  their  appear- 
ance, with  a  document  that,  at  least,  I  shall  know  how 
to  value  better  than  I  could  ever  deserve  it — a  simple, 
affectionate,  beautifully  written  address,  expressive  of 
that  unity  of  principle  which,  I  bless  God,  does  indeed 
exist  between  us,  and  tendering  a  welcome  to  their 
ancient  city,  upon  grounds  that  must  appear  passing 
strange,  considering  the  awfully  illiberal  character 
supposed  to  belong  to  the  club,  as  it  is  called.  Their 
thanks  are  tendered  for  what  they  kindly  denominate 
"  exertions  on  behalf  of  their  benighted  countrymen" — 
those  countrymen  who  are  taught  that  every  man 
wearing  an  orange  riband  is  inclined,  if  he  could,  to 
put  them  to  the  sword  !  They  are,  indeed,  so  taught; 
but  they  are  not  apt  scholars — not  one  in  five  hundred 
believes  the  calumnious  falsehood.     Now,  as  to  whe- 


COUNTY   DONEGAL.  307 

ther  the  Apprentice  Boys  have  given  me  their  badge — 
the  medal  I  had  years  ago,  from  a  dear  friend  at  pre- 
sent in  my  sight — you  must  not  expect  me  to  tell :  the 
gaol  is  outside  the  walls,  and  I  have  no  wish  to  lodge 
there  ;  but  I  am  admitted  an  honorary  member  of  the 
association,  having  the  high  privilege,  too,  of  being 
actually  akin  to  the  heroic  Colonel  Murray,  so  famous 
in  the  defence  ;  and,  as  such,  I  am  entitled  henceforth 
to  bear  the  motto  which,  by  the  divine  blessing,  I  will 
act  up  to,  in  its  highest,  holiest,  purest,  and  most 
extended  import — "No  surrender." 

After  a  most  interesting  conversation  with  my  kind 
brother  'Prentices,  in  which  I  elicited  not  a  little  of 
the  old,  and,  I  will  add,  sacred  fire  which  our  Solons 
are  so  clumsily  trying  to  extinguish,  ignorant  or  heed- 
less of  the  ruin  that  must  follow  to  the  country  and  to 
themselves,  I  departed,  bearing  my  precious  trophy 
through  Bishop's  Gate,  beyond  which  a  fine  street  ex- 
tends to  a  considerable  length,  and  pursued  the  road 
by  which  King  James  decamped  after  his  unsuccess- 
ful demonstration  against  "the  ancient  fortress  of 
British  freedom,"  as  my  new  friends  justly  term  it. 
The  scenery  here  is  most  enchanting ;  the  river  rolls 
along,  a  broad  peaceful  stream,  through  a  succession 
of  verdant  and  ever-varying  landscapes,  rivalling  each 
other  in  beauty.  As  we  approached  a  curve  in  the 
road,  our  hospitable  friend,  who  had  accompanied  us 
thus  far,  bade  me  turn  and  take  a  parting  look  at  Der- 
ry,  then  emerging  from  behind  a  swell  of  the  ground. 
This  was  a  superb  view  :  the  "  city  on  a  hill"  rose 
most  majestically  in  a  conical  form,  girt  with  her  dark 
wall,  crowned  by  her  noble  spire,  and  seemingly  en- 
circled by  the  river,  fed  by  which  a  thousand  luxuriant 


308  LETTER    XIII. 

trees  and  shrubs  relieved  the  otherwise  stern  outline  of 
that  embattled  town.  Make  what  allowance  you  will  for 
partiality,  and  for  enthusiasm  too,  if  you  please,  still 
Derry  is,  in  situation  and  general  aspect,  more  beauti- 
ful than  you  can  imagine  from  any  description  of 
mine.  Even  Inglis,  who  was  as  little  troubled  with 
picturesque  visions  as  most  men,  and  whose  pages 
rarely  offend  in  that  way,  was  surprised  into  the  lan- 
guage of  downright  eulogy  when  it  burst  upon  his 
view.  A  double  farewell  was  given  to  the  maiden 
queen,  and  to  the  friend  whose  unremitting  attention 
had  rendered  our  sojourn  there  doubly  gratifying  $  and 
we  began  to  explore  the  features  of  Donegal. 

Nothing  very  striking  occurred,  except  the  distant 
view  of  most  singularly  shaped  mountains,  until  we 
had  travelled  a  few  miles,  and  were  met  by  the  light 
car  of  our  present  host ;  we  then  found  enough  to  en- 
gage attention.  The  road  became  rugged  and  unequal 
to  a  degree  ;  and  as  we  every  now  and  then  alighted 
to  walk  up  some  steep  ascent,  the  fine  specimens  of 
geology  afforded  among  the  stones  cut  for  repairing  it 
surprised  us.  We  selected  some  beautiful  pieces,  but 
having  surmounted  the  hilly  path  I  had  no  more  lei- 
sure to  look  down.  Scratch  upon  paper  what  rough 
outline  you  will,  something  approaching  to  it  might 
be  found  among  the  forms  that  rose  before  us,  scat- 
tered at  unequal  distances,  and  bearing  more  the  ap- 
pearance of  uncouth  villas  contrived  by  a  colony  of 
independent  giants,  each  building  after  his  own  taste, 
than  anything  I  had  seen  before.  Two  particularly 
attracted  my  notice,  of  which  one  rose  to  such  a  point 
that  I  doubted  whether  the  top  would  afford  standing 
room;  and  the  other  presented  the  correct  outline  of 


COUNTY    DONEGAL.  309 

a  barn,  or  a  country' church  without  a  steepJe,  most 
exactly  fashioned.  This  last  is  particularly  conspi- 
cuous, standing,  as  most  of  them  do,  detached,  and 
looking  over  an  extraordinary  range  of  country,  as  I 
afterwards  found  when  perched  on  its  summit.  The 
nearest  of  them  must  have  been  more  than  ten  miles 
distant,  others  twenty  ;  some  no  doubt  much  farther. 
Beneath  us,  on  the  right,  a  fine  arm  of  Lough  Swilly 
appeared,  rolling  its  tide  through  innumerable  little 
channels,  and  covering,  when  full,  the  sands  that 
spread  broadly  on  either  side.  The  fine  mountainous 
region  of  Ennishowen  lay  to  the  right,  extending  from 
the  Swilly  to  the  Foyle,  and  forming  the  northern  bar- 
rier of  the  isle.  All  was  rude,  abrupt,  wild,  stern,  and 
gigantic,  aptly  accordant  with  the  tales  that  every  his- 
tory of  Ireland  necessarily  touches  upon,  of  the  fierce 
chiefs,  Hugh  Roe  O'Donnell,  Cahir  ODogherty,  Phe- 
lim  O'Neil,  and  their  followers,  who  rendered  it  the 
most  troublesome  part  of  the  British  dominions,  until 
James  I.  colonized  Ulster  so  extensively  with  his  own. 
countrymen  as  to  transform  it,  through  their  perse- 
vering industry,  and  the  powerful  influence  of  such 
an  example  ;  and  to  render  his  province  the  pride  of 
the  land.  Donegal,  you  know,  is  the  ancient  Tyrcon- 
nel— r-a  name  of  sanguinary  notoriety  on  the  historic 
page. 

JSvpry  mile  of  the  road  now  added  something  to  the 
grandeur  of  the  view.  Lough  Swilly  has  some  superb 
scenery  visible  even  from  this  point  ;  while  a  nearer 
approach  rendered  the  tapering  point  of  Ariga,  and 
the  architectural  correctness  of  Muckish.  more  strik- 
ing; besides  revealing  fresh  groups  of  dusky  and 
fantastic  forms  in  more  remote  distance.     The  fore- 


310  LETTER    XIII. 

ground  was  one  uninterrupted  spectacle  of  fertility, 
that  graceful  plant,  the  flax,  spreading  in  luxuriant 
crops  over  the  surface,  studded  with  its  beautiful  little 
pale  blue  flowers.  Potatoes  of  vigorous  growth  and 
fine  healthy  blossom,  and  fields  of  corn  that  might 
rival  our  best  English  agricultural  counties,  diversi* 
fied  the  prospect ;  while  the  cabins,  in  general,  ranked 
with  our  cottages;  an  air  of  neatness  and  comfort 
pervading  their  inhabitants,  which  was  easily  account1* 
ed  for  by  the  spinning  wheels  discernible  in,  I  think, 
every  one  of  them  into  which  I  contrived  to  peep* 
Here  is  a  specimen  of  what  may  be  done  in  Ireland 
by  bringing  the  land  fairly  into  cultivation,  and  fur* 
lushing  the  people  with  employment.  Hitherto  the 
condition  of  the  north  has  generally  confirmed  the 
theory  that,  be  the  religion  of  the  people  what  it  may, 
they  will  prosper  under  such  circumstances  :  but 
proceedings  attendant  on  these  elections  have  proved 
the  contrary.  Sligo,  which  has  hitherto  enjoyed  a 
character  for  tranquillity  and  good  order  commen- 
surate with  the  best  places  of  the  north,  is  exhibiting 
a  fearful  contrast,  under  the  influence  of  the  Romish 
priesthood,  who  are  bent  on  returning  to  parliament 
such  men  as  shall  forward  their  own  views,  at  what- 
ever price  of  outrage  and  bloodshed  it  may  be  done. 
It  is  lamentable  to  find  persons,  capable  in  all  other 
subjects  of  analysing,  comparing,  and  drawing  just 
inferences  from  what  is  presented  to  their  view,  so 
completely  hoodwinked  on  this  point.  They  adduce 
the  improved  condition  of  the  Romanists  keeping  pace 
with  that  of  their  Protestant  neighbors  in  these 
districts  as  a  proof  that  their  religion  is  no  bar  to 
national  prosperity,  where  outward  encouragement  is 


COUNTY    DONEGAI*.  311 

afforded,  and  justice  rendered  both  to  the  soil  and  its 
cultivators  ;  but  the  question  is  not  whether  the  poor 
Romanist  under  such  circumstances  will  avail  himself 
of  advantages  common  to  all,  whether  he  will  build 
his  cabin  more  substantially,  clothe  himself  and  house- 
hold more  comfortably,  and  present,  as  others  do,  a 
striking  contrast  to  the  miserable  peasantry  of  the 
south:  it  is  whether  he  be  not  secretly  bound  to 
use  all  these  advantages  as  weapons  of  offence  against 
the  peace  of  the  country,  "  forsaking  his  own  mercies,1' 
and  abandoning  himself  to  every  lawless,  every 
sanguinary  pursuit,  when  summoned  so  to  do  by  those 
whose  interest  it  is  to  prevent  his  long  enjoying  a 
state  of  outward  prosperity  that  may  in  time  produce 
an  inward  attachment  to  the  government  under  which 
he  lives.  As  well  might  a  man  argue  from  the 
unruffled  aspect  of  the  Atlantic  on  a  calm  summer's 
day,  that  an  open  boat  would  be  as  safe  and  suitable 
a  conveyance  across  its  bosom  as  across  that  of  the 
land-locked  lake,  half  a  mile  over,  as  maintain  that  the 
country  can  abidingly  prosper  whose  Protestant  gov- 
ernment has  to  bear  rule  o^er  a  population  devoted  to 
the  See  of  Rome.  Travellers  visit  Ireland  during  an 
interval  of  calm,  and  forget  that  however  the  stormy 
swell  of  its  waters  may  for  the  time  be  hushed,  a 
breath  may  rouse  them  in  the  space  of  one  dark  hour 
into  a  paroxysm  of  foaming  rage,  that  shall,  ere  it 
subsides,  work  the  destruction  of  all  within  its  reach. 
These  elections  will  open  a  page  of  information  before 
the  eye  of  England,  more  legible  and  far  more  in- 
structive than  the  accumulated  folios  of  her  par- 
liamentary committees,  and  well-paid  commissions,  of 
the  past  ten  years.     The  only  doubt  is  whether  she 


312  LETTER    XIII. 

will  wisely  read  it,  or  turn  away  from  unwelcome 
truths,  until  the  calamity  overtakes  her  which  all  her 
wilful  or  affected  blindness  cannot  avert. 

After  a  pleasant  drive,  with  as  small  a  proportion  of 
level  ground  as  I  had  ever  yet  met  with  in  a  similar 
space,  we  entered  and  passed  through  the  neat  pros- 
perous-looking little  town  of  Letterkenny  ;  but  not 
until  we  had  crossed  the  Swilly  in  the  form  of  a 
rivulet  running  under  a  scarcely  perceptible  bridge. 
Letterkenny  consists  of  a  long  street,  with,  a  very 
rapid  descent,  beyond  which  a  pretty  road  led  us  tb 
the  gate,  and  a  short  approach  under  some  fine  trees 
to  the  house  of  these  expecting  friends  ;  who,  flocking 
down  the  broad  steps,  commenced  the  'cead-mille 
failthe'  reception  before  we  could  even  jump  from  the 
car.  You  would  delioht  in  this  situation,  it  is  so 
completely  shut  in  that  you  need  not,  unless  you 
choose  to  think  about  it,  know  that  there  is  any  visible 
world  beyond  its  limits.  The  house,  large  and  com- 
modious, with  an  entrance  hall  spacious  enough  to 
please  me  well,  stands  closly  surrounded  on  three 
sides  with  well-grown  treQf,  forming  a  sort  of  verdant 
niche  for  it  to  rest  in.  Before  it,  gradually  slopes 
down  a  very  fine  lawn,  tastefully  planted  with  clumps 
and  single  specimens  of  the  most  ornamental  species 
— pine,  cedar,  beech,  oak,  and  bay,  prevail :  but  many 
others  abound.  Beyond,  the  eye  is  again  lost  in 
shrubberies  and  minor  plantations,  over  which  rises  a 
swelling  ground,  variously  cultivated,  with  one  or  two 
pretty  cottages  on  the  ascent  ;  and  to  the  right,  not 
wholly  visible  from  the  dwelling,  is  a  handsome 
mansion  belonging  to  a  branch  of  the  Stewart  family. 
Mr.  B.  says  he  will  cut  away  some  of  his  redundant 


COUNTY    DONEGAL.  313 

wood  on  that  side,  and  lay  the  prospect  open  .  I  can 
easily  imagine  how  you  would  protest  against  it,  but 
it  will  probably  be  done. 

Sunday  morning  displayed  a  delightful  scene  ;  I  was 
conducted  by  our  friend  to  the  rear  of  the  dwelling, 
where  no  fewer  than  three  rooms  were  occupied  by 
the  children  of  his  tenants,  each  member  of  the  family 
taking  a  class  ;  the  master's  being  composed  of  young 
men  and  boys  who  had  made  some  progress  in  Scrip- 
ture knowledge.  Many  an  hour  have  we  together 
devoted  to  the  same  work  among  the  poor  ragged 
little  outcast  Irish  children  in  St.  Giles' ;  and  you 
may  imagine  how  delightful  it  was  to  see  my  fellow- 
laborer  thus  pursuing  the  same  avocation,  surrounded 
by  this  well-clad,  healthy,  respectable-looking  assem-* 
blage,  to  whom  the  family  invariably  devote  the  first 
hours  of  each  Sabbath  morning.  Oh  that  every  gen- 
tleman's house  in  Ireland  could  boast  of  apartments 
thus  furnished ! 

The  parish  church  being  under  repair,  divine 
worship  is  held  in  a  large  school-house  in  Letter- 
kenny  ;  it  is  well  attended,  and  the  Rector  is  one  who 
eloquently  preaches  Christ  crucified  as  the  sinner's 
only  hope ;  while  alas !  crowds  are  flocking  to  the 
mass-house  just  by,  to  worship  a  deified  wafer,  putting 
their  trust  in  the  arm  of  flesh,  and  vainly  going  about 
to  establish  their  own  righteousness,  which  can  never 
profit  their  souls.  Nothing  is  to  me  so  melancholy  a 
spectacle  as  the  deeply  devotional  appearance  of  these 
poor  lost  sheep,  as  they  go  to  the  poisoned  pasture  in 
quest  of  nutriment.  Oh  that  England  would  stretch 
out  yet  more  munificently  a  helping  hand,  and  pro- 
vide Scripture  readers  for  every  peopled  track  in  this 
27 


314  LETTER    XIII. 

inviting  country  !  I  had  been  told  that  the  Irish  lan- 
guage was  very  little  spoken  here ;  it  is  extremely 
prevalent;  and  among  the  crowds  of  poor  destitute 
creatures  who  on  every  Thursday  morning  assembled 
at  Mr.  B's  gate  to  share  the  bounty  which  his  liberality- 
deals  forth,  in  meal,  potatoes,  &c,  a  great  majority 
spoke  the  native  tongue,  though  few  if  any  are  entirely 
ignorant  of  English, — or  Scotch  as  they  call  it ;  for 
that  is  the  title  by  which  the  settlers  are  generally 
distinguished. 

It  was  with  no  small  measure  of  delighted  expecta- 
tion that  I  prepared  for  a  trip  to  the  great  barn,  as  I 
cannot  help  calling  that  singular  mountain.  The  car 
was  prepared,  in  compliance  with  my  obstinate  pre- 
dilection, rejecting  gig,  phaeton,  and  coach  for  that 
lively  vehicle  Mr.  B.  sent  forward  a  relay,  for  the 
road  is  tremendously  rugged,  and  so  long  that  no  one 
believed  we  seriously  meant  to  make  a  single  day's 
jaunt  of  it ;  nor  was  it  for  lack  of  the  most  pressing 
invitation  to  pass  the  night  at  a  beautifully-situated 
mansion,  midway,  that  we  all  made  up  our  minds  to 
the  exploit.  I  obtained  a  fine  view  of  Mr.  B's  exten- 
sive property,  as  we  drove  between  the  fields  of 
ripening  flax  and  corn,  and  at  length  arrived  on  the 
never-to-be-forgotten  roads  of  the  wild  region.  The 
first  remarkable  thing  we  passed  was  Lough  Veagh, 
one  of  the  most  bewitchingly  beautiful  lakes  that  the 
sun  shines  upon.  It  lies  at  the  foot  of  a  precipice,  so 
verdant,  so  richly  wooded  even  there,  and  on  its  more 
eloping  bank  so  exquisitely  adorned  by  the  hand  of 
taste,  following  the  guidance  of  creative  skill,  that  I 
could  have  lingered  long  to  gaze  upon  its  loveliness, 
had  not  the  very  minutes  been  precious.    Muckish 


COUNTY    DONEGAL.  315 

still  retained  his  architectural  form,  and  it  was  a 
puzzle  to  me  by  what  means  we  were  to  mount  the 
roof:  but  after  turning  and  winding  with  what  seemed 
an  interminable  road  we  came  to  the  accessible  side, 
and  to  confess  the  truth,  Slieve  Donard  was  a  staircase 
compared  wiih  what  lay  before  us.  In  height  the 
monarch  of  Mourne  surpasses  his  brother  of  Tyrconnel 
by  some  800  feet ;  but  for  abrupt  steepness,  ag- 
gravated by  the  absence  of  stepping  stones  and  stout 
fern,  which  lent  so  welcome  an  aid  in  Down,  Muckish 
was  far  more  impracticable.  However,  I  have  a  great 
dislike  to  being  beaten  back  in  an  enterprise  fairly 
commenced,  and  as  in  the  former  case  resolved  to 
persevere.  We  left  the  car  at  the  only  cabin  within 
reach  which  boasted  of  something  called  a  stable  j  but 
the  noble  animal  that  had  drawn  us  could  by  no 
manoeuvre  make  himself  small  enough  to  enter  any 
door  on  the  premises,  and  was  compelled  to  stand  out- 
side during  five  or  six  hours'  absence. 

Fancy  me  nowj  first  floundering  through  a  narrow 
bog,  which  lay  between  the  road  and  the  mountain, 
and  then  commencing  such  a  work,  that  had  not  the 
stout  arm  of  my  friendly  guide  lent  continual  aid,  I 
never  should  have  reached  the  first  two  hundred  feet 
of  the  ascent,  which  was  just  a  level  to  the  2000  that 
lay  beyond.  A  dozen  of  times  I  wished  myself  on  the 
dullest  flat  in  Europe,  rather  than  to  be  toiling  under 
a  sultry  sky  up  an  almost  perpendicular  wall  of 
smooth  grass ;  but,  after  a  longer  effort  than  that  ex- 
pended on  Slieve  Donard,  the  top  was  really  gained, 
and  with  it  the  dissipation  of  my  delightful  dream  of 
repose ;  for,  in  lieu  of  the  greensward  on  which  I 
resolved  to  recline  the  moment   we  reached  the  sum- 


316  LETTER    XIII. 

mit,  there  was  a  sort  of  burlesque  on  the  mystery  of 
Macadamizing — a  coating-  of  small  sharp  stones, 
seemingly  arranged  with  the  keenest  edge  uppermost, 
rendered  hot  by  the  powerful  rays,  and  not  only- 
refusing  a  seat,  but  scarcely  affording  a  comfortable 
standing-place. 

Yet  all  was  forgotten — recent  fatigue  and  present 
discomfort,  in  contemplating  the  scenery  around.  1 
despair  of  describing  it.  We  stood  facing  the  west, 
and  looking  down  upon  such  a  tumult  of  rugged  mag- 
nificence as  had  never  entered  my  imagination.  The 
mountains  before  us  were  all  rock,  scantily  clad  here 
and  there  with  mosses,  lichens,  and  rough  grass,  but 
still  lifting  their  craggy  peaks  in  naked  sternness,  and 
in  every  variety  of  form  that  fancy  could  devise. 
Directly  in  front  of  us  rose  four  pinnacles,  of  nearly- 
equal  height,  and  with  a  regularity  that  would  beseem 
the  turrets  of  an  old  castle  ;  and  what  would  you  sup- 
pose lay  in  the  cradle  thus  formed  1  A  lake  like 
crystal.  Look  where  you  would — wesjt,  south,  or 
south-east — you  were  dazzled  by  the  radiance  of  a 
Jiundred  sun^,  flashed  forth  by  as  many  glorious  lakes, 
some  very  small,  others  of  great  size — some  lying  in 
the  bosom  of  what  seemed  a  soft  green  meadow,  others 
surrounded  by  golden  sands,  but  the  greatest  number 
at  various  elevations  upon  rocks  and  mountains.  It 
was  enchantment  ;  it  cannot,  I  am  persuaded,  be 
paralleled.  Turning  to  the  east,  there  roamed  Lough 
Swilly  along  the  many  channels  that  he  has  formed 
for  his  abundant  waters  ;  and  farther  yet  the  long 
unbroken  chain  of  Innishowen  showed  the  course  ot 
the  Foyle  ;  and  if  I  did  not  see  Derry,  my  wish  was 
father  to  the  thought ;  fori  think  I  did.     To  the  north 


COUNTY  DONEGAL.  317 

•—but  to  obtain  a  full  view  here  it  was  necessary  to 
cross  over  to  the  other  side  of  the  ridge ;  and  after 
literally  cutting  my  boots  to  pieces  on  the  sharp 
stones,  I  had  the  consolation  of  finding  so  much  of 
grass  and  wild  herbage  as  sufficed  us  all  for  a  pleasant 
seat : — to  the  north,  then,  lay  outspread  in  all  its 
majesty  the  mighty  ocean.  The  island  of  Torry 
seemed  almost  within  reach  j  and  oh  what  an  endless 
variety  of  exquisitely-formed  bays,  estuaries,  creeks, 
and  graceful  indentures,  did  that  northern  shore 
present !  We  seemed  to  overhang  the  ocean ;  it 
was  as  though  it  laved  the  foot  of  our  gigantic  resting- 
placCj  though  really  at  a  considerable  distance.  The 
perfectly  isolated  situation  of  the  mountain  exceed 
ingly  increased  the  grandeur  of  our  elevation.  There 
seemed  no  intermediate  step  between  us  and  the  lower 
world  ,*  but  how  we  ascended  and  how  we  should  again 
descend,  appeared  an  equal  mystery,  all  sides  being, 
in  our  then  position,  alike  abrupt  and  inaccessible.  I 
envied  the  engineers  who,  engaged  in  the  ordnance 
survey,  had  pitched  a  tent  and  lived  for  a  while  on  that 
mountain  height.  We  had  nothing  to  secure  us  from 
the  intensity  of  the  sun's  rays  j  but  that  only  enhan- 
ced the  delicious  effect  of  the  cool  azure  that  canopied 
the  deeper,  darker,  cooler  blue  of  the  wide-spread- 
ing Atlantic,  which  melted  into  it  in  the  far  horizon, 
marked  perchance  by  the  small  white  speck  of  some 
stately  ship,  diminished  to  the  size  of  a  pearl,  which 
linked  the  turquoise  and  the  amethyst.  Yet  even  from 
this  I  turned  repeatedly  to  look  upon  the  four  sin- 
gular turrets,  with  their  baby  lake  so  beautifully 
cradled  many  hundred  feet  from  earth's  level  plain. 
Arrigal  looked  splendid  from  this  post  5  and  Mr.  B. 
27* 


318  LETTER    XIII. 

told  me  that  I  was  not  mistaken  in  supposing  it  a 
mere  point  j  for  that,  after  climbing  it  with  no  small 
difficulty,  he  seated  himself  astride,  as  on  horseback, 
with  one  foot  on  each  side  of  the  mountain. 

Can  you  imagine  the  sea  in  the  wildest  possible 
state  of  commotion,  with  the  waves  thrown  up  in  all 
varieties  of  form  !  Magnify  them  in  size,  and  suppose 
them  suddenly  petrified,  you  will  have  the  nearest 
idea  that  I  can  convey  of  the  rocky  wilderness  be- 
neath us.  But  I  shall  tire  you  with  this  vain  attempt 
to  describe  what  baffles  description ;  and  I  must 
desist.  It  required  all  the  rhetorical  powers  of  my 
friends  to  persuade  me  that  we  ought  to  commence 
our  return  ;  but  the  fact  was  indisputable;  and  after 
convincing  ourselves  that  a  stone  allowed  to  drop  on 
any  part  of  the  edge,  save  one,  would  thunder  along 
till  it  reached  the  bottom,  we  bade  farewell  to  this 
scene  of  matchless  sublimity  ;  and  I  found  myself,  I 
hardly  know  by  what  means,  once  more  ankle-deep  in 
the  black  bog  below.  W.  says  he  never  had  such 
work  in  his  life  ;  but  would  like  such  a  frolic  every 
day.  I  believe  he  rolled  down  the  greater  part  of  the 
mountain,  under  the  direction  of  Miss  B.,  who  stepped 
the  heights  like  a  chamois,  smiling  in  conscious  secur- 
ity at  the  mischances  of  us  miserable  lowlanders. 
Muckish,  in  Irish,  signifies  a  pig's  back :  it  is  suffici- 
ently expressive  of  the  sharp,  level  ridge,  but  does  not 
describe  the  general  outline  of  the  mountain. 

The  *  hotel'  had  provided  for  us  an  enormous  dish 
of  delicious  potatoes ;  and  we  discovered  that  the 
hospitable  poor  creatures  had  dug  up  their  summer 
store  from  the  little  garden  to  feast  us.  These,  with 
our  own  provisions,  appeased  the  appetite  which,  as 


COUNTY    DONEGAL.  319 

you  may  suppose,  was  by  this  time  pretty  clamorous ; 
and  after  a  jolting  that,  despite  the  excellent  springs 
of  the  car,  strongly  reminded  me  of  our  approach  to 
Drogheda,  we  reached  home  between  ten  and  eleven 
o'clock,  tired,  I  confess;  and  with  my  boots  hanging 
in  shreds,  which  came  down  scatheless  from  Slieve 
Donard. 

Our  next  excursion  was  to  a  different  scene.  Lough 
Salt  was  the  name  given  to  a  high  mountain,  the  long 
indented  ridge  of  which  attracted  my  notice  j  and  Mr. 
B.  told  me  he  would  thence  show  me  a  prospect  that 
would  surprise,  if  it  did  not  delight  me,  more  than 
Muckish.  This  I  took  the  liberty  of  doubting  ;  but  a 
new  exhibition  of  the  romantic  features  of  this  glori- 
ous country  was  a  desirable  thing,  and  we  started 
again  in  great  spirits  the  following  day,  with  a  differ- 
ent horse,  two  having  been  completely  knocked  up  by 
the  former  excursion.  A  long  road,  less  rugged,  but 
also  less  picturesque  than  that  to  Muckish,  brought  us 
to  the  foot  of  this  ridge ;  and  then  an  excellent  car- 
riage-way, wide  but  terribly  steep,  led  us  towards  the 
summit.  We  walked  beside  the  car,  chatting ;  and 
but  for  the  pleasant  society,  I  should  have  thought  it 
rather  a  heavy  affair  ;  but  what  was  my  astonishment 
when,  on  rounding  the  point  that  terminated  this 
ascent,  I  found  myself  in  a  truly  magic  circle,  enclosed 
by  a  lofty  precipitous  mountain — the  very  ridge  in 
question — on  the  right ;  on  the  left,  a  graceful  sweep 
of  high,  but  more  gently  sloping  hills,  under  which 
the  road  wound,  the  intermediate  space  between  that 
and  the  steeper  rampart  being  occupied  by  a  lough  of 
considerable  width,  great  length,  and  depth  literally 
unfathomable  by  any  stretch  of  man's  ingenuity.    The 


320  LETTER    Xftl. 

tall  crag  was  slightly  curved,  rendering  that  edge  of 
the  water  which  kissed  its  base  equally  so  ;  the  other 
bank  was  considerably  rounded  out ;  and  to  enhance 
the  loveliness  of  this  graceful  outline,  no  distinct 
boundary  was  perceptible  at  either  end;  the  lines 
melting  offi  as  it  were,  in  the  distances*  After  pacing, 
in  the  silence  of  awe-struck  admiration^  the  margin  of 
this  beautiful  lake,  we  came  to  what  seemed  the  end 
of  it  5  but  here  a  little  stream,  not  a  foot  across,  ran 
gurgling  in  pure  crystal  through  the  grass,  close  under 
the  sheltering  rock,  and  fell  into  a  smaller,  indeed  af 
very  small  lake,  rendered  almost  black  by  the  deep 
shadows  cast  upon  it ;  for  here  the  basin  was  almost 
entirely  surrounded  by  perpendicular  rocks,  rising  to 
a  gigantic  height. 

Seated  upon  the  grass  on  the  pleasant  slope  that 
lay  betvVeen  those  two  strangely  situated  pieces  of 
water,  I  felt  as  though  I  had  really  escaped  from  all 
the  harassing  conflicts,  the  turmoils  and  disquietudes 
of  life.  So  perfect  was  the  seclusion,  so  profound  the 
tranquillity,  so  grand  yet  so  lovely  the  features  of  the 
scene,  that  I  could  not  help  thinking  of  the  hiding- 
place  promised  to  the  Lord's  people  when  he  arises  to 
shake  terribly  the  earth.  Confined  within  that  roman- 
tic boundary,  the  character  of  the  water  yet  resembled 
anything  rather  than  stagnation  :  there  was  a  beauti- 
ful ripple  perpetually  ruffling  its  bright  surface,  adding 
activity  to  peace.  The  finely  indented  ridge  was  not 
bare,  but  the  herbage  scanty,  short,  and  brown,  inter- 
mixed with  much  stone  \  and  some  rough  shrubs 
afforded  a  few  mouthfuls  to  the  lean  goats,  one  or 
two  of  which  I  descried  near  the  top.  There  was  also 
a  pathway  for  man's  footsteps  j  but  :t  must  require 


COUNTY    DONEGAL.  321 

great  strength  of  nerve  to  tread  it,  suspended  over 
such  an  awful  depth  of  water.  The  nearer  bank  was 
interspersed  with  blocks  of  limestone  and  granite, 
sparkling  in  the  sun  ;  over  which  gay  wild  flowers 
crept,  as  also  they  did  in  great  profusion  up  the  bank 
on  the  other  side  of  the  road.  A  trifling  ascent  in 
that  direction  threw  open  a  magnificent  sea  view,  with 
all  the  mighty  headlands  and  mountains  that  render 
this  part  of  Ireland  so  fine  ;  but  I  could  not  stay  to 
look  upon  them.  I  returned  to  the  lonely  glen  to  com- 
mune with  my  own  heart  and  be  still.  I  thought  how 
delightful  it  would  be  to  gather  into  this  natural  fold 
a  multitude  of  the  poor  wanderers  of  Erin,  and  to  tell 
them,  what  every  object  around  seemed  to  join  in 
proclaiming,  that  God  is  love.  What  a  glorious  land 
is  this — 

*  Where  every  prospect  pleases,  and  only  man  is  vile V 
As  in  the  music  of  the  Irish,  and  in  their  national 
character,  so  it  is  in  the  natural  scenery  of  their  coun- 
try. Some  unexpected  trait  of  the  softest  beauty  con- 
tinually steals  upon  you  in  the  midst  of  what  is  dark, 
stern,  and  wild  ;  something  of  the  latter  breaks  in, 
where  seemingly  it  has  no  business,  just  to  remind 
you  that  what  you  are  contemplating  is  Irish.  The 
grandeur  of  this  mountain  tract  of  Donegal  is  really 
savage  ;  yet  I  am  mistaken  if  the  sky  of  Italy  looks 
down  on  anything  so  softly,  so  enchantingly  lovely,  as 
this  Lough  Salt.  Tollymore  is  the  realization  of  a 
fairy  dream  ;  yet  there  the  eataract  flashes  across  your 
path,  foaming  impetuously  over  its  rocks  ;  and  Slieve 
Donard  haughtily  rears  his  crest,  or  rather  cairn  of 
rugrred  stones,  above  the  delicate  verdure  of  that  smil- 
ing scene.     How  is  it  that  tourists  who  use  the  pencil 


322  LETTER    XIII. 

rarely  select  the  really  characteristic  features  of  this 
enchanting  isle  ;  and  how  is  it  that  even  less  justice 
is  done  to  the  fine  traits  of  natural  character  percepti- 
ble through  the  ferocity  and  other  evil  things  with 
which  the  mother  of  abominations  has  inoculated  the 
native  race  2 

Not  satisfied  with  having  shown  us  two  such  speci- 
mens as  Muckish  and  Lough  Salt,  these  dear  friends 
planned  a  third  expedition,  the  object  of  which  was 
Mulroy  Bay  ;  and  although  we  encountered  enough  of 
heavy  rain  to  damp  our  energies,  the  excursion  over- 
paid all.  Mulroy  Bay  is  one  of  those  deep  indenta- 
tions by  which  the  ocean,  as  though  attracted  by  the 
picturesque  scenery,  roves  inland.  Here  the  water  is 
girdled  in  by  a  belt  of  crags,  not  very  lofty,  but  be- 
yond description  beautiful ;  being  decked  with  the 
brightest  verdure,  and  reclining,  as  it  were,  on  a  couch 
of  emerald  green,  adorned  with  wild  flowers  ;  while  at 
their  feet  a  little  strand  of  clear  pebbles,  strewn  with 
every  variety  of  sea-weed,  conducts  the  advancing 
tide  to  lave  the  barrier,  or  sparkles  in  the  sunbeam 
during  its  retreat.  Strolling  beneath  one  of  these 
rocks,  which  was  hung  like  an  old  castle  with  a  man- 
tle of  ivy,  I  suddenly  met  a  group  of  Irish  women, 
two  of  them  bearing  infants  in  their  arms.  It  was  im- 
possible to  resist  the  opportunity  ;  so,  after  eliciting 
by  a  few  questions  the  various  uses  to  which  they 
could  apply  the  sea-weed  so  profusely  heaped  around, 
I  turned  the  discourse  to  the  bountiful  kindness  of  the 
Lord,  who  would  not  let  a  little  wave  roll  upon  their 
shore,  without  bringing  them  a  gift  in  token  of  his 
love.  At  this  they  fairly  seated  themselves  on  some 
of  the  rocky  fragments,  the  better  to  listen  j  and  then 


COUNTY   DONEGAL.  323 

I  spoke  of  God's  crowning  gift,  even  his  own  only  and 
well-beloved  son,  freely  bestowed  j  and  of  the  Son's 
equal  love  in  freely  giving  his  life  for  us;  and  sought 
to  direct  them  to  the  source  of  all  true  wealth,  true 
happiness  and  peace,  in  the  midst  of  their  deep 
poverty  and  many  sorrows.  They  were  but  a  few 
words,  yet  they  came  from  my  heart  and  went  to 
theirs,  I  think ;  and  I  felt  as  though  I  tried  to  pay  a 
drop  of  that  ocean  of  debt  which  my  country  owes 
them.  Occupying,  as  we  do,  the  land  which  God 
gave  to  their  fathers,  we  are  unquestionably  so  placed 
in  order  that,  while  reaping  their  carnal  things,  we  may 
sow  unto  them  spiritual  things  ;  and  the  Lord  marks 
every  neglected  opportunity  of  inviting  these  straying 
sheep  back  to  the  fold. 

The  road  to  and  from  Mulroy  Bay  is  very  superi  or, 
in  point  of  population,  to  the  others.     But  the  satis- 
faction of  looking  on  a  neat  country  town,  with  its 
church,  its  glebe,  and  its  little  commercial  traffic,  was 
sadly  damped  by  the  appearance  of  that  nuisance,  the 
National  school,  of  course  closely  adjoining  the  Ro- 
mish chapel,  to  which  the  system  will  act  as  a  power- 
ful buttress  to  stay  and  to  strengthen  what  would  other- 
wise speedily  fall.     This  is  the  extreme  point  of  my 
excursion  :  I  have  travelled  through  thirteen  counties, 
and  have  freely  conversed  with  all  whom  I  met ;  yet 
can  I  safely  assert  that  hitherto  I  have  not  spoken  with 
one  individual  who  did  not  deprecate  the  plan,  as 
fraught  with  most  ruinous  consequences  to  the  peopJe 
of  the  land,  and  subversive  of  the  principle  of  the 
Union.     In  candour  I  must  likewise  add,  that  more 
sorrow  and  regret  have  been  expressed  to  me  by  the 
Protestants  of  Ireland,  on  the  occasion  of  this  perni 


324  LETTER    XIII. 

cious  experiment  having  found  an  advocate  in  a  truly* 
pious  English  clergyman,  than  at  all  the  dishonor  done 
to  them  by  open  enemies.  A.  slight  wound  from  the 
hand  of  a  trusted  brother  is  felt  more  keenly  than  many 
stabs  from  that  of  an  adversary.  However,  they  are 
not  discouraged  :  their  experience  may  be  that  of  Paul, 
— "At  the  first,  no  man  stood  by  me."  But  to  this 
they  will  be  able  to  add,  with  the  tried  apostle,  "  The 
Lord  stood  by  me  and  strengthened  me."  He  makes 
trial  of  their  faith  now,  that  they  may  make  trial  of 
his  truth  and  love.  The  persecuted  people  of  Gody 
in  this  country,  have  a  fairer  prospect  before  them 
than  those  who,  in  other  lands,  as  yet,  sit  secure,  dream- 
ing that  they  shall  see  no  sorrow ;  and  all  the  mad  ex- 
periments wantonly  tried  upon  them  and  their  cause, 
will  only  provoke  the  Lord  to  show  himself  strong  in 
their  behalf,  and  to  let  the  philosophizing  intruders 
know  that  he  who  toucheth  them  toucheth  the  apple 
of  His  eye. 

On  Monday  we  must  return  to  Derry,  as  the  steamer 
starts  by  nine  o'clock  on  Tuesday  morning.  I  shall 
leave  Donegal,,  more  than  ever  impressed  with  the  con- 
viction that  on  the  heads  of  bygone  generations  of 
British  Protestants  must  rest  a  heavy  share  of  respon- 
sibility, as  regards  the  present  state  of  Ireland.  By 
British  Protestants  I  mean  those  of  both  countries. 
England  is  fearfully  guilty,  in  that,  while  holding  the 
patronage  of  the  Irish  Church,  she  has  sent  into  this 
country  a  succession  of  men  to  bear  the  high  office  of 
spiritual  pastors,  who,  with  a  few  bright  exceptions, 
thought  of  the  fleece  and  the  fat,  and  of  nothing  more. 
Ireland,  on  the  part  of  her  Protestants,  is  guilty,  in  that 
they  have  actually  looked  upon  the  miseries  of  her 


COUNTY    DONEGAL.  325 

priest-ridden  race,  without  anything  that  could  be 
called  a  real  effort  to  break  the  yoke  of  bondage  from 
off  their  necks.  The  time  for  making  this  effort  was 
after  the  establishment  of  William  on  the  throne  ;  but 
perhaps  it  was  too  much  to  expect  that,  while  yet 
smarting  from  the  wounds  of  their  bigoted  persecutors, 
the  rescued  party  should  at  once  become  their  volun- 
tary teachers.  The  following  age  presented  no  such, 
barrier:  Popery  was  strictly  curbed  by  severe  penal 
laws  in  its  external  manifestation,  but  the  poison  was 
allowed  to  work  within.  Bedell,  Boyle,  and  Usher 
had  no  successors  in  the  spiritual,  neither  had  that  dis- 
interested patriot,  James,  Duke  of  Ormonde,  in  the  po- 
litical world  of  poor  Ireland. 

It  is  unavailing  as  afflicting  to  trace  the  progress  of 
fatal  mismanagement  during  prosperous  times,  issuing 
as  it  did  in  the  sanguinary  burst  of  1798.  The  Union 
placed  our  country  in  a  position  of  far  greater  power 
to  confer  good,  while  its  accompanying  concessions 
invested  the  enemy  with  more  abundant  opportunities 
of  working  evil.  Coercion  was  found  to  be  unavail- 
ing ;  conciliation  was  then  resorted  to,  and  helped 
forward  the  mischief  j  until,  instead  of  bringing  f,ur 
fellow-subjects,  by  God's  appointed  means,  to  a  parti- 
cipation in  the  blessings  of  Christianity,  we  have  flang 
our  own  national  faith  as  a  sop  to  the  fierce  Cerberus 
of  the  triple  crown,  only  to  learn  how  speedily  his  ca- 
pacious jaws  could  ingulph  the  gift,  and  then  renew  his 
stunning  yell  for  more.  It  ill  becomes  us  to  recrimi- 
nate, where  all  parties  are  so  deeply  guilty  concerning 
our  brethren  ;  one  path  is  yet  open  to  us,  and  that  is 
one  which  has  never  been  totally  closed.  Prejudices 
that  stood  not  in  the  way  of  learning  to  cluck  with  the 

OS 


326  LETTER  XIII. 

Hottentot,  though  they  could  not  abide  the  barbarous 
sound  of  the  finest  language  in  the  world,  daily  spok- 
en in  our  London  streets,  and  prevalent  among  three 
millions  of  our  nearest  neighbors, — these  prejudices 
have  now  been  put  out  of  countenance;  so  that  Chris- 
tian men  are  at  last  content  to  yield  the  point  of  oblig- 
ing a  native  Irishman  to  study  our  grammar  before 
they  inform  him  that  Jesus  Christ  came  into  the  world 
to  save  sinners.  Yet  the  obligation  is  not  fully  recog- 
nized :  the  ministers  of  this  Church  do  not  generally 
look  upon  the  Romish  peasantry  as  the  lost  sheen 
whom  it  is  their  duty  to  seek  and  to  bring  back  ;  and 
too  many  of  the  Protestant  laity  allow  themselves  to 
be  hindered  in  the  exercise  of  an  imperative  duty,  that 
of  rendering  their  influential  position,  as  to  the  tem- 
poral circumstances  of  the  natives,  available  for  their 
spiritual  advantage.  We  wonder  and  complain  that 
the  Ethiopian  does  not  change  his  skin :  some  talk  of 
boring  a  hole  through  the  island,  and  keeping  it  under 
water  for  a  day  or  two;  others  of  exporting  the  whole 
native  race,  and  re-peopling  the  land  with  a  different 
breed  ;  others,  again,  are  disposed  only  to  confine  them 
to  Connaught,  with  a  menace  of  driving  them  into  the 
sea  on  the  first  provocation:  but,  alas,  how  few  apply 
themselves  to  preparing  the  bonds  of  love  wherewith 
to  draw  this  forlorn,  this  perverted  people  back  to 
God! 

In  fact,  the  Creator  of  the  world  is  entirely  left  out 
of  the  various  schemes  for  bettering  a  country  that  he 
has  made  so  rich  and  so  lovely  :  how  to  render  it  a 
tractable  appendage  to  our  own  imperial  isle,  is  the 
grand  question  :  how  to  make  it  the  kingdom  of  our 
God  and  of  his  Christ,  is  another,  and  it  would  seem 


COUNTY    DONEGAL.  327 

a  wholly  irrelevant  matter.  '  Establish  Popery  as  the 
state  religion,'  says  one  ;  '  Give  them  useful  know- 
ledge, without  any  religion  at  all,'  quoth  another  ;  '  Ad- 
minister the  tee-total  pledge,'  suggests  a  third  ;  while 
a  small  section,  amid  the  smiles  of  pity  and  jeers  of 
scorn  that  such  a  proposal  must  elicit,  soberly  say, 
4  Christianize  them.'  And  to  this  it  must  come,  or  a 
besom  of  destruction  will  sweep  the  land,  directed  by 
Him  who  will  not  always  be  insultingly  overlooked  by 
his  rebellious  creatures.  The  servant  who,  througrh 
blameable  ignorance,  knew  not  his  Lord's  will,  shall 
then  be  beaten  with  stripes;  but  what  a  scourge  of 
briars  will  be  prepared  for  the  back  of  those,  who,  un- 
avoidably knowing  their  Lord's  will,  which  they  can- 
not help  hearing  in  their  houses  of  worship,  through 
pride,  through  prejudice,  through  indolence  or  unbe- 
lief, refused  to  do  it 


LETTER    XIV. 


CONCLUSION 


At  Sea,  August, 
Like  a  pleasant  dream,  my  summer  tour  is  ended,  and 
dear  Ireland,  with  all  her  touching  associations,  lies 
many  a  long  mile  to  the  west.  I  could  not  write 
before  starting,  and  now  the  resource  is  welcome. 
We  were  brought  to  Derry  by  our  considerate  friends, 
in  the  family  travelling  carriage,  after  bidding  a  reluc- 
tant farewell  to  their  sweet  retreat,  and  its  magnifi- 
cent neighborhood.  I  preferred  the  coach-box,  not 
only  for  the  parting  view  of  Swilly  and  his  glorious 
mountain  hosts,  but  for  the  first  a'nd  best  sight  of 
Derry  and  the  Foyle.  Both  were  afforded  me,  under 
a  splendid  sky;  and  with  a  bounding  heart  I  found 
myself  once  more  within  the  walls;  and  almost  imme- 
diately afterwards  perched  on  the  top  of  the  steeple. 

In  my  former  letter  I  neglected  to  mention  Wal- 
ker's testimonial ;  it  is  a  noble  column,  and  the  statue 
is  very  line  ;  but  not  being  part  and  parcel  of  the  bond 
JiJe  antiquities,  it  attracted  less  of  my  notice  than 
was  justly  due.  The  Chapel  of  Ease  I  ought  likewise 
to  have  mentioned  ;  and  to  have  rescued  Derry  from 
an  unjust  stigma  which  Inglis,  through  some  miscon- 
ception, left  to  rest  on  her  population.     He  says  there 


CONCLUSION.  329 

is  no  reading-room,  or  public  library  ■  there  are  three; 
and  one  of  them  is  of  great  extent,  arranged  in  a 
handsome  building  very  near  Brown's  Hotel.  Corpo- 
ration Hall,  which  occupies  the  site  of  the  old  Guard' 
house,  in  the  centre  of  the  Diamond,  is  a  noble  room, 
commanding  a  full  view  of  Lough  Foyle,  and  contain- 
ing a  painting  of  the  town  just  as  it  was  in  168S — an 
article  that  I  found  it  difficult  not  to  covet. 

The  evening  was  lovely  ;  and  so  late  as  between  ten 
and  eleven  o'clock  we  all  indulged  ourselves  with  a 
stroll  round  the  ramparts,  which  we  twice  encircled 
without  meeting  a  human  bemsf,  save  two  lads  who 
appeared  to  belong  to  the  shipping.  I  have  already 
described  the  relative  position  of  the  cathedral,  where 
an  iron  railing  alone  separates  the  grave-yard  from 
the  south-eastern  corner  of  the  ramparts;  against  this 
railing  I  stood  for  a  long  while,  until  the  scene  was  so 
impressed  on  my  mind  that  it  cannot  be  obliterated 
"  while  memory  holds  her  seat."  There,  in  the  pure 
light  of  as  brilliant  a  full  moon  as  ever  shone  upon 
it,  stood  the  modest,  but  noble  pile.  The  building 
has  no  transepts  ;  it  consists  of  two  parts  only,  the 
plain  body  of  the  church,  and  its  spire-crowned 
steeple  :  still  there  is  something  about  it  strikingly 
unique,  even  if  you  could  separate  it  from  the  thril- 
ling recollections  that  I  should  be  sorry  for  one 
moment  to  banish.  Not  only  the  chaste  outline,  in 
fine  relief  against  the  sky,  but  every  turn  of  the  archi- 
tecture, every  minutiae  of  the  finishing  was  distinctly 
seen  ;  save  where  about  eight  feet  of  the  base  lay  hid 
behind  the  mound  formed  by  unnumbered  accessions 
of  that  which  once  lived,  and  moved,  labored  and 
endured,  until  the  spirit  departed  and  dust  returned  to 
28* 


330  LETTER.  XIV. 

dust.  Here  the  moonbeam  fell  slantingly  on  the 
unequal  mantle  of  long  rank  grass,  revealing  the  few 
solitary  wild-flowers  that,  heavy  with  dews  of  night, 
drooped  their  closed  petals,  as  though  in  melancholy 
contemplation  of  what  rested  beneath. 

And  what  was  it  that  reposed  beneath  1  The  poor 
remains  of  manly,  and  lovely,  and  infantine  forms, 
many  rent  by  mortal  wounds,  hundreds  wasted  to 
death  by  famine,  thousands  swept  away  by  pestilence 
originating  in  hunger,  drought,  terror,  and  the  dread- 
fuHy  crowded  state  of  that  diminutive  town  during 
the  burning  heat  of  summer.  Mingled  with  their 
dust,  were  grape-shot,  cannon  balls,  and  the  fragments 
of  those  destructive  bombs  which  frequently  buried 
themselves  among  their  victims.  By  day  the  scene 
had  been  powerfully  exciting ;  but  under  that  soft, 
pensive  light,  it  struck  a  different  chord  ;  and  I  could 
have  wept  over  it  while  a  tear  remained  for  me  to 
shed.  "  Have  ye  suffered  so  much  in  vain  1"  was  the 
interrogatory  that  apostrophized  the  unconscious  mass 
of  mortality  ;  and  then  I  looked  towards  Innishowen, 
so  peacefully  slumbering  in  the  mellow  light,  and 
thought  how  the  native  population,  deep  in  the  defiles 
of  that  wild  region,  were  still  sitting  in  darkness  and 
the  shadow  of  death,  at  the  distance  of  a  century  and 
a  half  from  the  achievement  of  these  devoted  beings? 
which  placed  Ireland  altogether  under  Protestant 
ascendency.  Close  behind,  and  encircling  our  left, 
was  the  high  rugged  wall,  with  its  broken  watch- 
tower,  port-holes,  and  unequal  outline  :  while  a  little 
to  the  right  a  bastion  spread  its  angles,  and  opened  a 
view  to  the  rising  grounds  whence  a  destructive  bom- 
bardment was  constantly  directed  across   the  river 


CONCLUSION,  331 

[f  the  stillness  of  a  summer  night,  shedding  the  pale 
moonbeams  on  its  surface,  can  impart  such  an  interest 
as  we  know  it  does  to  a  grey  ruin  remarkable  only  for 
its  picturesque  effect,  what,  think  you,  must  it  have 
appeared,  when  the  objects  thus  illumined,  shadowed, 
and  hushed  into  solemn  stillness,  were  the  old  barrier 
walls  of  Derry,  her  venerable  church,  and  the  graves 
of  her  slain — the  romantic  mountains  of  Inishowen, 
and  the  swelling  waters  of  Lough  Foyle  !  Envy  me 
what  I  then  enjoyed,  but  pity  me  that  I  enjoy  it  no 
longer.  The  moonlight  now,  after  the  lapse  of  four- 
and-twenty  hours,  strikes  on  the  foam  around  me, 
showing  by  the  rapidity  of  its  sweep  how  fast  we  re- 
cede from  that  western  isle,  which  ought  to  be,  and 
which  might  be  the  most  precious  jewel  in  England's 
crown,  instead  of  proving  as  it  does  the  sharpest 
thorn  in  her  side. 

Once  again,  before  our  friends  were  stirring,  W. 
and  I  hastily  encircled,  the  ramparts,  and  traversed  the 
streets  of  Derry  ;  and  shortly  afterwards  I  had  disen- 
gaged my  foot  from  the  shore  with  a  more  painful, 
though  unseen,  effort  than  it  would  require  to  separate 
a  mass  of  iron  from  the  magnet.  If  one  of  the  neat- 
est, most  commodious  vessels  that  ever  breasted  the 
sea,  and  one  of  the  most  courteous,  gentlemanly,  con- 
siderate commanders  imaginable,  could  reconcile  me 
to  the  parting,  I  might  have  left  Ireland  in  the  Robert 
Napier,  without  a  pang;  but  neither  this  nor  a  casual 
meeting  with  most  agreeable  society,  could  do  it. 
We  were  speedily  at  large  in  the  Foyle,  and  from  that 
memorable  spot  where  the  Mountjoy  broke  the  boom 
I  looked  upon  the  city,  striving  to  realize  Captain 
Bowring's  emotions,  when  that  sight  inspired  hirr  with 


332  LETTER    XIV. 

resolution  for  so  daring  a  blow.  It  was  no  marvel, 
for  Derry  on  her  hill  is  most  conspicuous,  notwith- 
standing the  mass  of  additions  that  almost  hide  the 
ancient  boundary,  and  as  Bowring's  family  were  there 
I  could  comprehend  his  feelings.  He  succeeded,  and 
fell  at  the  same  moment. 

A  little  beyond,  we  overtook  and  passed  the  St. 
Columb,  a  small  steamer  bound  for  Glasgow,  so 
densely  crowded  with  passengers  that  her  bulwarks 
were  fringed  by  their  legs  hanging  over  the  sides. 
These  were  all  poor  Irishmen  going  to  seek  a  pre- 
carious employment  in  the  harvest  fields,  to  earn  the 
rent  of  their  miserable  cabin,  and  the  dues  of  their 
grasping  priest.  What  a  monstrous  anomaly,  that  the 
labouring  class  of  Ireland  should  thus  be  compelled  to 
migrate  for  a  few  weeks'  employ  while  her  rich  bog- 
lands  are  unreclaimed,  her  fine  soil  half  cultivated, 
and  her  abundant  mines  almost  altogether  unworked  ! 
Certainly  the  spirit  of  blindness  is  poured  out  upon  our 
rulers  ;  and  is  leading  all  classes  equally  or  at  least 
similarly  astray. 

The  ancient  fort  of  Culmore,  so  famous  in  the 
siege,  stands  on  a  commanding  point  of  land  \  and 
beyond  it  the  Lough  widens  into  a  magnificent 
expanse,  again  contracting  ere  it  meets  the  sea. 
Hitherto  the  scenery  had  been  of  the  more  cultivated 
and  polished  description,  presenting  a  succession  of 
elegant  seats  and  villas  ;  but  now  we  were  to  survey 
the  far-famed  coast  of  Antrim,  the  fine  weather  allow- 
ing us  to  keep  close  under  it.  Some  of  our  com- 
panions being  bound  for  the  Giant's  Causeway,  we 
"were  sure  of  seeing  that  extraordinary  place.  Bearing 
away  to  the  west  of  Lough  Foyle  were  the  sublime 


CONCLUSION.  333 

headlands  of  Donegal,  abrupt  perpendicular  cliffs  and 
mountain  projections,  the  height  of  which  would  h  ve 
astonished  me  had  I  not  lately  looked  down  upon  them 
from  Muc.kish.  As  we  rounded  the  eastern  shore, 
every  mile  brought  an  increase  of  sublimity.  Indeed 
I  know  not  where  so  many  remarkable  objects  can  be 
found  within  a  similar  space.  We  passed  Port 
Stewart,  an  exceeding!}'  pretty  town,  romantically 
situated  on  the  brink  of  the  sea  ;  and  soon  found  our- 
selves abreast  of  the  black  ruins  of  Dunluce  Castle, 
occupying  a  high  detached  crag,  accessible  only  by  a 
sort  of  bridge  thrown  from  another  rock  of  equal 
height.  The  ruins  are  very  extensive,  but  not  lofty; 
their  effect  resulting  principally  from  the  singular  site, 
rising  as  it  does  immediately  from  the  sea.  The 
Causeway  then  appeared,  and  amply  fulfilled  my 
expectations,  which  is  not  always  the  case.  Never 
did  1  behold  such  an  accumulation  of  the  grand,  the 
graceful,  and  the  fantastic,  as  the  ever-varying  outline 
which  those  fluted  cliffs  presented.  Sometimes  you 
might  trace  a  human  countenance  in  a  profile  of  one 
or  two  hundred  feet;  here  a  gigantic  organ,  there  a 
gallery,  then  a  stack  of  chimneys;  while  advancing 
from  the  main  land  into  the  sea,  fragments  of  every 
possible  shape,  all  bearing  the  same  singular  char- 
acter, seemed  sporting  among  the  playful  waves.  I 
would  not  have  exchanged  that  passing  sea-view  for  a 
day's  excursion  among  its  inland  wonders.  Carrick- 
a-rede  next  engaged  our  attention,  a  huge  mass  of 
basaltic  rock  separated  from  the  coast,  and  used 
during  the  season  by  those  employed  in  the  salmon 
fishery.  It  is  singular,  not  only  from  its  extremely 
picturesque  aspect,  appearing  as  though  rent  away  by 


33<i  LETTER  XIV. 

some  mighty  force  and  flung  into  the  sea,  but  more  so 
on  account  of  the  slight  bridge  of  rope  fearlessly 
thrown,  and  vibrating  in  the  breeze  at  a  height  of 
eighty  feet  above  the  water.  The  chasm  which  it 
crosses  is  sixty  feet  in  width  ;  and  along  this  perilous 
path  a  fisherman  will  tread  with  a  hundred  weight  of 
salmon  on  his  back. 

Unhappily  I  lost  the  grandest  of  ail  these  noble  fea- 
tures on  the  Antrim  coast,  for  we  passed  Fair  Head 
while  in  the  cabin  at  dinner  ;  and  I  was  not  aware  of 
it  until  too  late.  Subsequently  our  course  lay  directly 
away  from  the  land,  and  I  had,  as  I  thought^  taken  a 
last  look  of  the  narrow  dark  line  skirting  the  north- 
western horizon,  when  suddenly  an  apparition  rose, 
the  very  first  glimpses  of  which  extorted  the  exclama 
tion  from  my  lips — "  The  Mourne  Mountains  !"  It 
was  indeed  that  mighty  chain$  with  Slieve  Donard 
towering  high  above  his  fellows.  So  distinct  was  the 
outline,  that  I  could  fix  my  eye  upon  the  precise  spot 
where  Tollymore  Park  lies  ;  and  hour  after  hour  did  I 
gaze  on  it,  until  I  knew  that  the  neighbors  were  col- 
lecting and  the  family  prepared  at  the  beat  of  the  great 
drum,  which  suspended  beneath  the  banners  served  as 
a  gong,  to  meet  them  in  the  dear  chapel.  All  the  ex- 
cited feelings  of  the  day  seemed  then  to  find  vent  in 
the  tears  that  flowed,  while  in  heart  I  joined  their  eve- 
ning devotions. 

We  were  upwards  of  fifty  miles  distant  by  the  cap- 
tain's reckoning,  who  said  I  might  have  made  that 
voyage  a  hundred  times  without  obtaining  such  a  view 
of  the  Mourne  hills.  It  was  ten  o'clock  before  we 
lost  their  magnificent  outline,  and  even  then  not  dis- 
tance but  insufficient  light  excluded  them.     A  brilliant 


CONCLUSION.  335 

beacon  fflimmerino;  in  the  horizon  still  marked  the  en- 
trance  of  Belfast  Lough,  while  the  moon  broadly  rested 
on  the  opposite  coast   of  Scotland.     At   one  time,  be- 
fore  sunset,    Slieve   Donard  and  Ailsa  crag  appeared 
equidistant,  and  of  similar  height  5  but  the  latter  was 
much  nearer.     Repeatedly  I  was  summoned  on  deck 
by  the  kind  captain,   who    declares  that   he  never  re- 
members such  a  nioht  at  sea.  The  moon  han^s  beneath 
a  canopy  of  the  deepest   blue  ;  so   invitingly   brilliant 
that  he  prepared   a  powerful  glass   to  gratify  me  with 
a  telescopic  view  of  that  orb,  infinitely  surpassing  any 
that  can  be  gained  on  land.     Returning  to  the  cabin   I 
was  again  hastily  on  called  deck  to  witness  a  beautiful 
but  tantalizing  sight.     The   Isabella  Napier  was  pro- 
ceeding home,  scarcely  discernible  in  the  dim  distance. 
These  two  elegant  packets  start  at  the  same  time,  the 
Robert  from   Derry   and    the   Isabella  from  Liverpool 
every  Tuesday  ;  and  vice   versa,  on  the  Friday.      We 
were  now  about  to  salute  ;  and  this  was  done  by  each 
ship  at  some  interval  first  throwing  up  a  large  rocket, 
which  cleft  the  dark  clear  sky   with   splendid  effect  ; 
then  burning  a  blue  light   over   her  side.     The  result 
of  all  these  fires  gleaming  over  such  a  sea  was  incon- 
ceivably lovely.     I  have  passed  many  weeks  upon  the 
ocean  but  never  witnessed  anything  to  compare  with 
it.     The  revolving  light-houses  were  also  new  to  me  : 
they  are  so  colored  as  to  throw  across  the  waves  alter- 
nate tints    of  blue,   crimson,   deep  yellow,  and  pure 
white,  each  continuing  for  the   space  of  a   minute  or 
two.     By  this  time  we  were  off  the  Isle  of  Man,  but 
every  local  link  with  Ireland  seemed  severed  when  the 
packet  had  passed  on  her  way;  and  I   descended  to 
my  solitary  cabin,  being  the  only  female  passenger, 


335  LETTER  XIV. 

not  to  sleep,  but  to  muse  over  the  remembrance  of 
these  eight  delightful  weeks,  and  to  sum  up  the  result 
of  my  observations. 

It  is  soon  told  :  Ireland  as  she  is,  must  continue  to 
be  a  tormenting  enigma,  baffling  the  utmost  skill  of 
worldly  men,  and  paining  the  hearts  of  those  who 
look  beyond  the  passing  pageant  of  time.  Ireland  as 
she  ought  to  be,  would  prove  to  us  a  tower  of  strength, 
a  mine  of  wealth,  and  a  crown  oi"  beauty.  Bring  to 
bear  upon  her  but  a  reasonable  share  of  English  enter- 
prise, directed  by  Christian  wisdom,  and  supported  by 
characteristic  liberality,  and  never  did  the  most  fertile 
field  give  such  promise  of  repaying  an  hundred-fold  the 
culture  bestowed  on  it,  as  she  does.  I  appeal  to  facts: 
I  recur  to  the  estates  of  Lord  Roden  and  Lord  Man- 
deville,  which  I  have  carefully  examined,  and  to  those 
of  Lords  Farnham  and  Lorton,  which  lay  out  of  my 
track.  Exceptions  to  the  success  of  their  plans  do 
emphatically  prove  the  rule  ;  because  those  exceptions 
can  always  be  traced  to  the  influence  of  Popery,  fos- 
tered as  it  is  by  the  legislature,  beyond  their  power  to 
repress  it.  Ireland  is  not  like  a  field  that  has  merely 
lain  fallow,  and  thrown  up  weeds  ;  it  is  like  one  that  has 
been  perverted  from  its  original  use,  and  built  upon, 
and  encrusted  with  stones  and  gravel.  We  have  a 
great  work  to  do  ;  to  pull  down  these  buildings,  to 
cast  out  this  rubbish,  and  by  a  persevering  process  to 
overcome  obstacles  that  must  be  surmounted,  if  we 
would  have  our  fruitful  field  again  to  plant  vineyards 
upon,  instead  of  having  our  eyes  offended,  and  our 
whole  estate  poisoned  by  the  mass  of  pest-houses  sur- 
reptitiously erected.  That  the  thins:  is  practicable,  is 
certain,  for  this  reason,  that  it  is  a  plain  positive  dutyf 


CONCLUSION,  337 

and  as  such,  both  incumbent  onus,  and  sure  of  receiv- 
ing a  blessing  from  on  high  in  its  honest  performance. 
But  if  this  will  not  be,  if  we  are  too  cowardly,  too  nig- 
gardly, too  unfaithful  and  unbelieving  to  choose  the 
right  path,  these  things  must  goon  from  bad  to  worse  : 
nothing  is  stationary  :  nobody  is  neutral.  Bind  the 
victim  hand  and  foot,  and  fling  her  yet  more  hopeless- 
ly into  the  iron  furnace  of  Rome  :  deal  blow  upon 
blow  at  the  Protestant  church,  and  heap  insult  upon 
insult  on  the  Protestant  people  :  banish  the  Bible  from 
every  school,  or  mutilate  according  to  the  most  ap- 
proved Popish  and  Socinian  patterns  j  leave  the  native 
tongue  of  the  most  untamed  millions  amonsr  the  abo- 
rigines,  to  be  used  by  the  Romish  priesthood  as  an 
unfailino"  instrument  for  exciting  them  to  sedition  and 
sanguinary  outrage  ;  do  all  this,  and  as  much  more 
as  you  please,  under  the  false  colors  of  liberalism, 
and  the  falser  cant  of  "  useful  knowledge."  The 
result  is  soon  told :  you  sow  the  wind,  and  shall  reap 
the  whirlwind. 

Poor  Ireland !  who  can  look  upon  the  loveliness  of 
her  scenery — lovely  always,  even  when  it  assumes  so 
much  of  the  savageness  of  rude  sublimity,  as  I  have 
vainly  attempted  to  sketch  in  Donegal — and  not  de- 
sire to  see  it  smiling  in  prosperity,  as  even  in  desola- 
tion it  cannot  help  doing  1  Who  can  trace  the  ardent 
devotion,  the  fervent  attachment,  the  unhesitating 
obedience  of  her  native  race  to  that  which  they  erro- 
neously esteem  the  truth,  their  dauntless  courage  in 
its  defence,  and  their  unwavering  fidelity  to  its  inter- 
ests, without  feeling  that  such  a  people,  illumined  by 
the  beams  of  the  everlasting  gospel,  would  indeed 
shed  forth  a  brilliant  light  upon  surrounding  lands  ? 
29 


338  LETTER   XIV. 

Who  can  contemplate  the  spectacle  of  her  Christian 
clergy,  maintaining  their  arduous  post  against  every 
discouragement  in  the  midst  of  persecution,  affliction, 
and  distress  ;  of  a  Protestant  community,  continuing 
stedfast  in  loyalty  under  all  the  varied  trials  of  cen- 
turies past,  and  still  holding  the  land  for  those  who 
give  them  neither  thanks  nor  support,  without  the 
strongest  emotions  of  sympathy,  admiration,  and 
respect  1  My  heart  is  too  full  of  these  things  to  part 
from  the  country  without  a  pang  of  unaffected  sorrow, 
deepened  by  a  sense  of  the  kindness,  the  affectionate 
kindness  that  has  bound  me  more  strongly  than  ever 
to  the  green  isle.  These  are  my  parting  thoughts,  as 
they  occurred  on  the  deck  of  the  Robert  Napier. 


5Tis  past,  like  vision  faded — the  mountain  swells  between, 

To   shroud   thee  from  my  lingering  gaze,  unconquered  maiden 

queen ; 
The  eastern  point  is  rounded  of  thy  Foyle's  retiring  bay, 
And  Inishowen's  giant  troop  in  distance  melt  away. 
Wild  rocks  with  crumbling  turrets  topped  are  frowning  dark  and 

high, 
The  headlands  bold  and  beautiful  successively  sweep  by, 
And  onward  ploughs  our  gallant  boat,  too  swiftly  through  the 

main — 
Oh  when  shall  I  revisit  thee,  mine  own  green  isle,  again ! 

I  go  where  Albion,  proudly  rich,  majestically  leads 

Tall  lines  of  waving  trees  around  her  broad  and  fertile  meads, 

To  see  the  glory  and  the  wealth,  the  splendor  and  increase 

Of '  cities  that  with  commerce  shine,'  of  hamlets  robed  in  peace. 

Not  such,  thou  torn  and  wearied  one,  alas  !  not  such  art  thou; 

Pain,  poverty  and  shame  have  pressed  their  signet  on  thy  brow : 

Yet  dearer  to  my  bosom  far  than  Albion's  gayest  smile, 

Is  the  saddest  sigh  that  breathes  from  thee,  my  own  loved  isle. 


CONCLUSION.  339 

"When  shall  the  joy  again  be  mine  to  labor  up  the  steep, 
And  from  thy  mountain's  ragged  crest  look  forth  upon  the  deep  : 
Or  inland  turning  number  o'er  full  many  a  fairy  lou^h, 
Each  gleaming  from  its  dark  recess,  a  diamond  in  the  rock ; 
Tyrconnefs  wilderness  of  crags  spread  broad  beneath  mine  eye, 
Rude  spire  and  mimic  battlement  fantastic  piled  on  high, 
And  the  tall  ridge  that  sternly  smiles  in  purple  heather  drest; 
And  woos  a  thousand  rock-born  flowers  to  sparkle  on  its  breast. 


While  o'er  the  glen  the  plumy  flax  waves  wild  in  lightsome  grace, 
And  the  coy  streamlet  half  revealed  pursues  its  playful  race, 
And  Swilly  with  his  hundred  arms  roams  idly  on  the  shore, 
And  Foyle  his  song  o'  the  olden  time  still  murmurs  by  Culmore. 
For  he  hath  rolled  his  guardian  wave  round  the  grey  rampart  stone. 
And  laved  the  honored  feet  of  the  maiden  on  her  throne  : 
Oh  when  shall  I  again  kneel  down  in  Derry's  hallowed  pile, 
That  glory  of  thy  thousand  hi!ls,  my  own  bright  isle  ! 

The  summer  eve  is  closing — no  more  my  tearful  eye 

Can  trace  the  line  of  thy  dear  shore  beneath  the  western  sky  ; 

Save  where  the  mighty  scalps  of  Mourne   in   towering   grandeur 

swell, 
And  Donard  smiles  across  the  wave  a  tender  kind  farewell, 
And  let  the  waves  bring  back  to  thee,  as  peacefully  they  roll, 
The  fondest  greeting  of  my  lip,  the  blessing  of  my  soul. 
I  cannot  stay  the  rapid  keel  that  bears  me  on  the  while, 
It  does  not  bear  my  heart  from  thee,  my  own  sweet  isle. 

The  moon  walks  forth  in  splendor  now,  and  brightly  o'er  the  deep, 
Rays  of  revolving  beacon-fires  in  changeful  beauty  sweep. 
And  yonder  comes  the  home-bound  ship,  I  see  her  signal  light, 
Oh  for  that  rocket's  spring,  to  bound  athwart  the  brow  of  night. 
Right  joyously  I'd  cleave  the  air,  with  her  retrace  my  way, 
And  laugh  to  greet  the   laughing  morn,  on  Antrim's  headlands 

grey, 
And  nerve  my  very  eye  to  brook  the  blaze  of  solar  fire, 
Might  but  that  glory  flash  on  me  from  Derry's  sunlit  spire. 


34-0  LETTER    XIV. 

Ah,  vain  as  fond,  I  shall  not  find  beneath  to-morrow's  ray, 
Aught  half  so  radiant  as  the  looks  that  shone  on  me  to-day. 
Through  hours  of  toilsome  weariness,  long  tedious  hours  and  lone, 
I'll  turn  to  the  remembered  light  that  cheered  me  and  is  gone. 
Light  of  the  hearts  that  love  me  well,  beamed  from  the  speaking 

eye, 
Alike  in  welcome's  glowing  smile,  and  mid  the  parting  sigh. 
But  mule  be  the  repining  thought,  and  hushed  the  bosom's  swell. 
My  own  loved  isle,  my  Inisfail,  vein  of  my  heart,  farewell ! 


APPENDIX. 

A.     Page  45. 

The  subsequent  publication  of  minutes  of  evidence 
before  the  Committees  of  the  House  of  Lords  on  the 
subject  of  this  national  system  of  education  has  spared 
me  the  task  of  adducing  proofs  from  private  informa* 
tion  which  are  there  brought  forward  on  oath.  Who- 
soever will  take  the  trouble  of  even  cursorily  perusing 
those  two  folios,  must  rise  from  them  with  a  convic- 
tion on  his  mind  that  the  charges — I.  of  mutilated  un- 
faithful extracts — II.  of  the  suppression  as  far  as  pos- 
sible even  of  these — III.  of  the  substitution  of  most 
debasingly  superstitious  and  indecent  publications — 
and  IV.  of  the  scandalous  characters  retained  in  the 
capacity  of  masters,  are  all  substantiated.  To  save 
any  sceptical  reader  the  trouble  of  searching  them 
out,  by  giving  references  under  these  various  heads, 
for  charge  I.  see  the  evidence  of  the  Rev.  C.  Boynton, 
page  1265  to  1268,  that  of  the  Dean  of  Ardagh,  page 
843 — 5  ;  for  charge  II.  that  of  the  Rev.  A.  B.  Rowan, 
page  813  ;  for  charge  III.  that  of  the  Rev.  L.  H.  Ro- 
binson, p.  1135 — 95,  and  that  of  the  Rev.  G.  Dwyer, 
page  1215 — 7  ;  and  for  charge  IV.  as  a  single  instance, 
to  the  case  of  O'Donnell,  detailed  from  page  3S2  to 
418.  Mr.  Colquhoun's  work  also,  "The  System  of 
National  Education  in  Ireland ;  its  principle  and 
practice,"  contains  many  startling-  facts. 
29* 


34f2  APPENDIX 


B,     Page  52. 

The  Rev.  L.  J.  Nolan  has  recently  published  a 
pamphlet  which  lays  open  this  scene  of  horror — the 
frightful  slavery  of  the  Romish  priesthood  themselves 
to  the  system  which  they  are  sworn  to  uphold  —in  a 
manner  calculated  to  rouse  every  compassionate  feel- 
ing of  the  human  heart  on  their  behalf.  He  relates 
from  his  own  experience  two  cases,  in  one  of  which 
an  inoffensive  man  was  marked  for  death,  and  he, 
though  apprised  of  it  in  the  confessional  by  the  in- 
tended assassin,  was  withheld  by  those  bonds  of  dark- 
ness from  taking  any  step  whatever  to  avert  the  crime, 
or  to  warn  the  victim,  who  was  accordingly  mur- 
dered. The  other  was  a  yet  more  awfully  revolting 
case  of  premeditated  parricide,  also  accomplished. 
Not  only  is  the  woman  of  the  Apocalyse  herself 
drunken  with  the  blood  of  the  saints,  and  with  the 
blood  of  the  martyrs  of  Jesus,"  she  makes  those  who 
willingly  wear  her  chains  also  drunk  "with  the  wine 
of  the  wrath  of  her  fornication/' 


C.    Page  64. 

It  cannot  surely  be  denounced  as  uncharitable  for 
one  party  to  allu'de  to  what  the  other  is  continually 
harping  on  :  and  I  should  feel  less  scruple  in  so  doing 
at  the  present  time  than  in  July,  1837,  when  it  suited 
the  purpose  of  the  arch-agitator  to  assume  an  aspect 
of  joyous  contentment  on  the  accession  of  our  young 
Queen  ;  and  to  talk  as  though  halcyon  days  of  peace 
were  in  store  for  his  oppressed  country.  I  trust  in 
God  they  are  :  but  not  by  means  of  O'Connell's  devis- 
ing or  desiring.     The  continual  defeat  of  his  goodly 


APPENDIX.  343 

plans  for  overthrowing  the  Protestant  ehurch  and  quiet- 
ly re-establishing  Popery  on    her  usurped  throne    in. 
Ireland,  insures  a  constant  repetition  of  his  kind  an- 
nouncements respecting  the  rebellion  with  which  he 
seeks  to  frighten  us  into  greater  concessions.     Mr. 
O'Connell  deprecates  nothing  more  than  such  an  event ; 
he  finds  it  profitable  fishing  while  the  waters  are  mode- 
rately troubled  ;  but  let  an  actual  storm  come,  and  he 
will  gladly  retreat  with  his  tackle  into  some  sheltering 
nook.     Many  a  true  word,  however,  as  the  old  adage 
declares,  is  spoken  in  jest :  and  Mr.  O'Connell  may 
find  his  manufactory  of  squibs  a  terrible  subject  for 
the    sparks  that  he  flings   about  at  random.     A  third 
party  uses  him  as  a  tool  to  ignite  the  fiery  spirit  whom 
they,  not  he,   desire  to  see   in  the  destructive  attitude 
of  1798;  and  his  vaporing  menaces  in  the  British  se- 
nate tell  with  dreadful  effect  on  those  whose  mouth- 
piece he  pretends  to  be,  while  seeking  only  the  accom- 
plishment of  his  own  sordid  ends.     It  is  not  from  the 
blusterings  of  Derrynane,  but  from  the  subtle  craft  and 
sterling  gold  of  Italy  that  real  danger  is  to  be  appre- 
hended ;  though   the  former  is  made   subservient   to 
nasten  the  work  to  which  the  latter  are  applied.     It  is 
well  to  know  from   what   quarter   the   danger   really 
comes  :    Mr.  O'Connell  can  no   more  retard  the    mis- 
chief than   he   can  arrest  a   thunderbolt.     He   speaks 
truth,  when  he  tells  of  plots  and  meditated  insurrec- 
tions ;  but  his  words  are  idle,  worse  than  idle  breath, 
when   he  would  represent   them  as   capable  of  being 
averted  by  conceding    '  Repeal,'    or    anything    else, 
however  abject  the  concession  may  be,    so  long  as  a 
Protestant  breathes   unmolested   the    air  of  Ireland, 
The  union  existed  not  in  1798  :  can  any  rational  being 
hesitate   in  drawing  the  inference  %     In  fact  it  would 
seriously  embarrass  the  plans  of  these  men  to  lose  the 
present   co-operation   of  the    governm^pt,   and  to   be 
obliged  to  meet   the  oppressed  Protestants   on  equal 
ground 


344  APPENDIX. 

Let  the  records  of  the  former  rebellion,  as  recorded 
byMusgrave,  once  more  become  the  study  of  English 
Protestants.  It  was  the  event,  comparatively,  of  a 
former  generation.  Why  should  we  refuse  to  profit 
by  the  lesson  it  conveys  ? 


D.  Page  96. 

A  few  persons  may  yet  be  found  hardy  enough  to 
question  this  fact.     To  them  may  be  recommended  a 
valuable  little  book  entitled,  '  Primitive  Christianity  in 
Ireland  :  A  Letter  to  Thomas  Moore,   Esq.'     By  Dr. 
Monck  Mason.     The  Irish,    even    to    the    very    hum- 
blest   class,    are    passionately  fond   of   antiquity,  and 
pride  themselves  on  an  acquaintance  with  it,  so  far  as 
regards  their  own  race  and  country.     It  is  therefore 
of  importance  to  the  cause  of  Popery  that  they  should 
be  possessed  with  the  belief  of  its  having,  from  the  first 
introduction   of  Christianity,    borne  sway  in   Ireland; 
and  he  who  should  succeed  in  persuading  a  poor  Irish- 
man that  St.  Patrick  was  not  a  Romanist  would  break 
the  strongest  link  in  his  chain.     No  one,  who  desires 
to  promote  the  welfare  of  the  people,  should  continue 
io-norant  on  these  points.     They  hold  with  most  cling- 
ino-  tenacity  what  they  believe  to  have  been  '  the  faith 
of  their  fathers  ;'  and  if  we  believe  it  too,  we  are  utterly 
unfit  to  enter  the  field  against  their  darling  delusions. 
What  can  be    more  touchingly  encouraging  to  those 
who  seek  the  salvation  of  the  native  race  than  to  know 
that  they  are,  generally,  the  descendants  of  true  be- 
lievers— members,  at  least,  of  a  true  scripturaL  Church, 
planted  in  the  apostolic  age — and  that  our  work  is  not 
to  rear  a  new  edifice,  but  to  build  up   one  which   has 
been  thrustMown  by  the  iron  hand  of  Popery  ;   not  to 
kindle  a  light  where  none  has  yet  dawned,  but  to  unco- 
ver a  lamp  that  her  devices    have  prevailed  to  hide. 


APPENDIX.  345 

The  subject  is  not  a  speculative  one  ;   it  is  deeply  and 
valuably  practical. 


E.    Page  97. 

Here  is  the  infamous  document  of  that  unprincipled 
pontiff".  He  was  an  Englishman,  formerly  abbot  of 
Lan^ley,  in  Hertfordshire.  I  have  slept  under  the  very 
roof  where  the  cells  of  his  monks  are  still  preserved  ; 
and  mourned  to  think  that  my  countrymen — pope, 
king,  and  nobles — should  have  combined  to  lay  these 
fetters  of  darkness  on  poor  innocent  Ireland.  It  be- 
hoves us  the  more  to  put  forth  every  energy  now  in 
breaking  the  accursed  bonds. 

(  Adrian,  Bishop,  servant  of  the  servants  of  God,  to 
his  dearest  son  in  Christ,  the  illustrious  kingf  of  En&- 
land,  greeting,  and  apostolic  benediction. 

4  Full  laudably  and  profitably  hath  your  magnificence 
conceived  the  design  of  propagating  your  g-lorious 
renown  on  earth,  and  completing  your  reward  of  eter- 
nal happiness  in  heaven  ;  while,  as  a  Catholic  prince, 
you  are  intent  on  enlarging  the  borders  of  the  Church, 
teaching  the  truth  of  the  Christian  faith  to  the  igno- 
rant and  rude,  exterminating;  the  roots  of  vice  from 
the  field  of  the  Lord,  and  for  the  more  convenient 
execution  of  this  purpose  requiring  the  counsel  and 
favor  of  the  apostolh?  see.  In  which,  the  matur'er  your 
deliberation  and  the  greater  the  discretion  of  your 
procedure,  by  $o  much  the  happier,  we  trust,  will  be 
your  progress,  with  the  assistance  of  the  Lord;  as  all 
things  are  used  to  come  to  a  prosperous  end  and  issue, 
which  take  their  beorinninsf  from  the  odor  of  faith  and 
the  love  of  religion. 

'  There  is,  indeed,  no  doubt  but  that  Ireland,  and  all 
the  islands  on  which  Christ  the  sun  of  righteousness 
hath  shone,  and  which  have  received  the  doctrines  of 
the  Christian  faith,  do  belong  to  tlifi  jurisdiction  of  St, 


34-6  APPENEIX. 

Peter,  and  of  the  holy  Roman  Church,  as  your  excel- 
lency also  doth  acknowledge.  And  therefore  we  are 
the  more  solicitous  to  propagate  the  righteous  planta- 
tion of  faith,  and  the  branch  acceptable  to  God,  as  we 
have  the  secret  conviction  of  conscience  that  this  is 
more  especially  our  bounden  duty. 

'You  then,  most  dear  son :  in  Christ,  have  signified 
to  us  your  desire  to  enter  into  the  island  of  Ireland,  in 
order  to  reduce  the  people  to  obedience  unto  laws, 
and  to  extirpate  the  plants  of  vice  ;  and  that  you  are 
willing  to  pay  from  each  house  a  yearly  pension  of  one 
penny  to  St.  Peter,  and  that  you  will  preserve  the 
rights  of  the  churches  of  the  land  whole  and  inviolate. 
We  therefore,  with  that  grace  and  acceptance  suited 
to  your  pious  and  laudable  design,  and  favorably  assent- 
ing to  your  petition,  do  hold  it  good  and  acceptable, 
that,  for  extending  the  borders  of  the  Church,  restrain- 
ing the  progress  of  vice,  for  the  correction  of  man- 
ners, the  planting  of  virtue,  and  the  increase  of  reli- 
gion, you  enter  this  island  and  execute  therein  what- 
ever shall  pertain  to  the  honor  of  God,  and  welfare  of 
the  land  j  and  that  the  people  of  this  land  receive  you 
honorably,  and  reverence  you  as  their  lord  ;  the  rights 
of  their  churches  still  remaining  sacred  and  inviolate, 
and  saving  to  St.  Peter  the  annual  pension  of  one  pen- 
ny from  every  house. 

"  If  then  you  be  resolved  to  carry  the  design  you 
have  conceived  into  effectual  execution,  study  to  form 
this  nation  to  virtuous  manners  ;  and  labor  by  your- 
self, and  others  whom  you  shall  judge  meet  for  this 
work,  in  faith,  word,  and  life,  that  the  church  may  be 

there  adorned,  that  the  religion  of  the  Christian  faith 

-I 
may  be  planted  and  grow  up,  and  that  all  things  per- 
taining to  the  honor  of  God,  and  the  salvation  of 
souls,  be  so  ordered,  that  you  may  be  entitled  to  the 
fulness  of  eternal  reward  from  God,  and  obtain  a  glo- 
rious renown  on  earth  throughout  all  ages." 

This  atrocious  Bull  was  accompanied  with  the  gift 


APPENDIX.  34»7 

of  a  ring,  by  way  of  investiture  as  Lord  of  Ireland ; 
and  that  the  king  too  faithfully  executed  his  commis- 
sion we  have,  alas!  seven  centuries  of  blood-stained 
evidence  to  prove.  It  is  well  to  bear  these  things  in 
mind;  and  to  be  enabled  also  to  convince  others  that, 
view  it  how  we  will,  England  owes  to  Ireland  a  mighty 
debt  of  justice,  which  ought  to  burden  her  conscience 
no  longer. 


E.     Page  167. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  serious  charges  brought 
against  the  National  Schools  ;  an  excuse  may  be  found, 
or  fancied,  for  the  "pious  frauds"  by  which  monks 
and  nuns  contrive  to  strengthen  the  children  in  what 
they  conceive  to  be  the  true  faith,  by  surreptitiously 
introducing  their  books  on  divinity  ;  but  that  works 
of  a  politically  seditious  character,  and  others  calcu- 
lated to  corrupt  the  morals  of  the  poor  little  pupils, 
should  be  found  in  permitted  use,  defies  the  utmost 
stretch  of  liberalism  to  furnish  even  a  palliation  of  the 
sin.  At  Erril  school,  a  copy  was  actually  set  in  the 
book,  as  a  heading,  which  contained  a  lamentation  for 
four  criminals  recently  hanged  at  Maryborough,  with 
their  names :  in  another  at  Cork,  a  pamphlet  was 
found,  the  style  of  which  was  in  the  highest  degree 
inflammatory.  One  passage  was,  "  Let  the  motto  of 
every  county  Cork  man  be,  Don't  give  up  the  repeal, 
and  we  must  conquer."  This  also  contained  a  list  of  Pro- 
testant gentry  against  whom  the  minds  of  the  people 
were  to  be  excited.  The  case  of  O'Donnell,  already 
referred  to,  comes  fairly  under  this  head.  With  re- 
gard to  the  other  point,  two  books  are  specified  as 
being  given  to  the  children  by  their  ecclesiastical 
teachers,  male  and  female,  of  which  the  language  is  so 
gross,  that  the  clergymen  and  gentlemen  examined  be- 
fore the  committee    of  the  Lords  declined  reading  it, 


348  APPENDIX. 

and  begged  leave  to  hand  the  books  in  for  their 
Lordships'  private  examination.  Mr.  Colquhoun  has 
treated  with  tremendous  effect  this  part  of  the  sub- 
ject, in  his  valuable  little  volume. 


F.     Page  Vm 

Two  years  ago,  the  Rev.  Dr.  O'Sullivan  published 
a  pamphlet  of  great  importance  under  the  title  "Doc- 
trines of  the  Church  of  Rome,  and  Disorders  of  Ire- 
land." He  showed  by  extracts  from  the  printed 
minutes  of  Parliamentary  Committees,  and  other 
documents,  the  progress  of  deception  and  perfidy, 
already  in  full  march  upon  us.  He  also  gave  the  sub- 
jects as  appointed  for  discussion  at  the  priestly  ''  con- 
ferences" of  several  preceding  years  ;  with  the  prac- 
tical comment  upon  them  afforded  by  succeeding 
events.  The  following  summary  which  he  gives  to- 
wards the  close  of  the  work,  is  deserving  of  attention  i 

•"  1.  In  the  second,  or,  perhaps  we  should  call  it,  the 
summer  conference  of  1830,  a  question  respecting  the 
right  of  the  beneficed  clergy  was  proposed. — In  the  aw- 
tumn  of  the  same  year  their  claims  were  systematically 
resisted.  The  circumstances  of  the  resistance  were 
very  suspicious,  but  as  yet  "  without  blood." 

2.  In  the  concluding,  the  winter  conference  of  1830, 
the  priests,  who  are  above  law,  decided  o^  the  instruc- 
tions to  be  given  to  men  whose  profession  is  military, 
to  judges  and  jurors. — It  became  necessary,  as  we  learn 
from  the  Parliamentary  Committee  of  the  year  1832, 
in  consequence  of  the  harangues  delivered  by  these 
"  absolute"  instructors,  that  a  commissioned  officer 
should  accompany  each  party  of  Roman  Catholic  sol- 
diers to  their  chapels. — As  if  the  people  had  been  en- 
couraged to  hope  forbearance  from  the  military,  or 
favor  from  jurors,  they  entered  upon  a  course  of  assas- 
sination and  bloodshed  without  parallel  in  our  history. 


APPENDIX.  349 

—In  Clare  and  in  Kilkenny  jurors  could  not  be  pro- 
cured to  do  justice. 

3.  In  the  second  conference  of  1832,  the  punish- 
ments decreed  against  heretics  were  the  subject  of 
discussion.     That  year  was  memorable  for — 

1st.  The  discovery  of  the  ?ieiu  constitution  of  the 
Whitefeet,  and  their  oath  to  keep  down  heresy. 

2d.  Frequent  and  sanguinary  assaults  upon  Protest- 
ants. 

3d.  The  signals  of  the  "lighted  turf"  conveyed  at 
midnight  with  alarming  rapidity  to  the  houses 
of  Roman  Catholics  throughout  all  Ireland. 

4th.  Extensive  emigration  of  Protestants,  caused  by 
incessant  persecution  and  alarms. 

5th.  Protestants  disguising  their  faith  to  obtain  an 
uncertain  protection  from  the  priests. 

6th.  Romish  priests,  in  their  sermons,  predicting  the 
speedy  destruction  of  the  Protestant  religion. 

Such  were  the  signs  among  and  before  the  people, 
Vfhen  discussions  had  arisen  in  the  secret  conferences 
as  to  the  punishments  decreed  against  heretics. 

4.  In  Ib>33,  the  question,  whether  clergy  are  subject 
to  secular  laws,  was  discussed. 

In  the  year  following  Dr.  M'Hale  Vaunted  his  viola- 
lion  of  a  statute. 

5.  In  1835,  questions  lespecting  title  to  property 
were  proposed. — In  that  year  resistance  to  the  pay- 
ment of  rents  was  organised,  Mr.  O'Connell  descanted 
on  the  peculiar  character  of  title  in  Ireland,  and  priests 
from  the  altar,  and  in  public  meetings,  harangued 
vehemently  to  a  similar  effect. 

It  is  not  rash  to  affirm,  that  coincidences  so  numer- 
ous and  so  exact  as  these,  would  cause  a  reflecting 
man  to  feel  alarm,  even  though  he  were  able  to  discern 
no  connecting  link  between  the  perilous  question  and 
the  demonstration  of  purpose  which  waited  on  it.  But 
when  a  link  has  been  discovered — when  it  is  taken 
into  account,  that  precisely  at  the  time  when  Romish 
30 


350  APPENDIX. 

bishops  thought  England  most  insecure — when  move- 
ments were  progressing  abroad,  which  increased  the 
danger  of  domestic  convulsion — when  by  the  conta- 
gion of  example,  Belgian  revolt  had  wrought  strongly 
on  the  passions  of  Irish  agitators,  the  intolerant  doc- 
trine of  a  Belgian  professor  was  declared  the  guide  of 
the  conferences  of  Irish  priests — it  cannot  be  denied 
that  the  coincidence  is  inauspicious  ;  and,  whatever 
may  be  the  chronology  of  the  secular  and  the  spiritual 
demonstration — whether  Dens  called  forth  Repeal,  or 
Repeal  suggested  that  the  days  were  at  hand  when 
Dens  would  be  wanted, — it  is  impossible  not  to  feel 
that  the  politics  of  Belgium,  and  its  execrable  theolo- 
gy, seen  unexpectedly  and  in  conjunction,  impart,  each 
to  the  other,  a  more  menacing  character,  and  cast  a 
malign  and  threatening  light  over  circumstances  which, 
even  when  free  from  their  imluence,  have  been  suffi- 
ciently portentous. 

G.     Page  232. 

Nothing  could  better  prove  the  ludicrously  sensi- 
tive state  of  certain  personages,  and  their  anxious 
casting:  about  for  a  pretence  of  alarm,  than  the  clamor 
raised  by  this  little  song.  It  was  written  by  a  gentle- 
man at  or  near  Colerain,  in  the  month  of  November, 
previous  to  the  disembodying  of  the  Orangemen  ;  and 
of  such  moment  was  it  considered,  that  some  noble 
Lord  got  up  in  his  place,  to  question  Lord  Roden  as 
to  his  connexion  with  the  minstrel  who  thus  "  for  sor- 
row sang,"  or  rather  with  the  obnoxious  lay  of  the 
aforesaid  minstrel,  with  which  his  Lordship  had  no 
more  to  do  than  any  reader  who  may  peruse  these 
pages.  The  stanzas  possess  much  beauty  and  feeling, 
and  I  mi^ht  give  them  all  here,  if  I  could  be  guaran- 
teed  against  an  indictment  for  misprision  of  treason. 
The  sentiments  at  first  sight  appear  too  warlike;  bat 
let  it  be  remembered,  that  they  were  called  forth  by 


APPENDIX.  351 

the  repeated  menaces  of an  open  insurrection ,  while  the 
numbers  would  be  six  to  one  against  them,  when, 
surely,  the  men  who  instrumentally  saved  the  kingdom 
in  1798,  might  be  permitted  to  look  towards  the  very 
focus  of  loyal  devotion,  and  to  use  such  expressions 
as  these : — 

The  power  that  nerved  the  stalwart  arms  of  Gideon's  chosen  few, 
The  power  that  led  great  William,  Boyne's  red'ning  torrent  through, 
t'n  his  protecting  aid  confide  and  every  foe  defy, 
Then  put  your  trust  in  God,  my  boys,  and  keep  your  powder  dry. 

Already  see  the  star  of  hope  emit  its  orient  blaze, 

The  cheering  beacon  of  relief,  it  glimmers  through  the  haze; 

It  tells  of  better  days  to  come,  it  tells  of  succor  nigh, 

Then  put  your  trust  in  God,  my  boys,  and  keep  your  powder  dry. 

See,  see  along  the  hills  of  Down  its  rising  glories  spread, 
But  brightest  beams  its  radiance  from  Bollard's  lofty  head, 
ClanbrassiVs  vales  are  kindling  wide,  and  "  Roden"  is  the  cry, 
Then  put  your  trust  in  God,  my  boys,  and  keep  your  powder  dry. 


For  happy  hours,  for  altars  free,  we  grasp  the  ready  sword, 
For  freedom,  truth,  and  for  our  God's  unmutilated  word, 
These,  these  the  war-cry  of  our  march,  our  hope  the  Lord  on  high, 
Then  put  your  trust  in  God,  my  boys,  and  keep  your  powder  dry. 

Whatever  those  in  authority  may  be  led  to  think  by 
the  designing  men  who  mock  their  credulity,  it  would 
be  an  evil  day  for  themselves,  on  which  they  should 
persuade  the  Protestants  of  Ireland  to  damp  their 
powder.  A  front  of  quiet  determination,  with  suffi- 
cient means  at  hand  to  repel  an  enemy,  if  called  to  act 
on  the  defensive,  is  the  surest  preventive  of  bloodshed 
in  the  absence  of  that  fear  of  God  and  respect  for  the 
laws  which  are  the  only  lasting  foundations  of  public 
tranquillity  Rational  precaution  demands  of  the  Irish 
loyalists  that  they  keep  their  powder  dry ;  and  we 
may  hope  that  through  the  restraining  mercy  of  Him 
who  loves  not  to  see  his  people  wielding  carnal  wea- 
pons in  the  cause  of  truth,  they  will  be  permitted  to 
keep  it  cool  also. 


\ 


BOSTON  COLLEGE 


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